MilesFox

yeah he's f'n right!

generic "ford" aux fuel tank pump. external in-line type. makes for good subaru fuel pump

you can drop the diff down a little bit with spacers at the hanger to mount bushings and the mount to body bolts. as well as the bolts that hold the diff to the mounting plate. if you want to donk out your subaru rollin on 13's. the springs on soob shocks would ride ok, its better than the chap coil spring booster i have in my sedan. i did space the diff to make up about 1/2 to 3/4 inch. it is a little rough on the driveshaft but i need to lower the top part of the diff

a lot of the off the shelf gauge kits have npt thread fittings and the orofices on the oil pump are metric. the npt thread will work if you use teflon and dont torque much past about 3 turns. you may have to couple the extra fittings in the kit to match it up but i find the leftover fitting from the water temp gauge is the magical piece.

ok before speculation detracts the original idea lets go back to the tps. when you take off the intake boot yhere it will bo on the side of the throttle body. if you remove the alternator or swing it out of the way you can get to the screws easier and with a stubby screwdriver. take it off and shake it if you hear something rattle its mostly junk. clean up the contacts, you can clock the unit a little for some fine tuning, ir grab one from another spfi. the maf sometimes camn make it feel boggy try the crc maf cleaner. my sedan ran leanish and i swapped in another maf from my other car and it drove nice and snappy. you can try messing with the coolant temp sensor if your car runs different warm than cold.

the xt6 trans will work if you swap the driveshaft and trans mount along with. if you dont have those parts any other 5spd 4wd driveline, mounts or clutch will fit the same. if you have all the parts from the xt you will still need the pedal assembly out of a loyale/gl/dl for the clutch pedal because the xt's mounts differently. the gearing on the xt6 trans is a little taller than the other models in the first gears and the rear diff is 3.9. make sure you have a 3.9 diff to go with(if your car does not already have one) the axles you will need from a turbo 5spd model with a 25 spline. your car has 23 spline axles in front. you would be better off with a dual range 5spd but if you have the parts already have at it! you will need to hardwire the vacuum solenoids for the diff lock using a dpst switch

do you not have the ea81 flywheel? if you do and if i remember correctly the ea81t has the same flywheel bolt diameter ans an ea81 so if you use a drill press nad a 1/2 inch bit you can drill out the holes to match. this works for ea81 flywheels against ea82 motors. this is if you have the flywheel and need a quick fix.

if the car runs fine i would suspect the INTAKE GASKET as i would think that is more likely, and easier to fix! sure the motor looks complicated but all that intake comes off in one piece! the turbo can stay where it's at, just remove the "subaru 4wd" plenum and undo 6 bolts. there is a little more to it than that but the point is the intake comes off in one piece, hoses and all

might i amend this comment for it is both correct and incorect. the ecu has to see a signal from the disty to turn on the fuel pump (and to trip the coil, by breaking the field charge at the ecu itself by proxy of the ignition amplifier). the idea stated above will work if you hardwired the fuel pump to be on with the ignition (+ coil terminal or fuse panel) and the mechanical aspects of the carby distributor will trip the coil at the distributor itself. now, what this statement seems to have meant to say is the carb disty will work on an spfi block in a carb application such as using a 93 loyale motor to replace the long block in a 85 carb'd wagon. but yes, the carb disty will work mechanically if you can get around the fuel pump hotwire. make sure to hook up the vacuum and may as well unplug the ign amplifier at the coil. the ecu will most likely throw a crank angle sensor code(as it would when the car is not running)

the spare should be the same overall diameter for a stock tire size. if anything you may have a vibration and this would be the tire itself if it is off balance. make sure it is aired up to 60 psi. driving on a flat rim is entertaining but when the tire shreds off it can beat the piss out of your fender(if you put on a flat donut...) aside from all that if anything put the spare on the back and rotate the rear tire(s) to the front so you maintain your steering and braking ability.

if the radiator looks corroded its wise to install a new one. depending on your driving or the heat on the temp gauge it wouldnt hurt to put a trans cooler on, you can get a mid-duty unit at the u-haul for abour 40 bucks if you put it on yourself how many miles? if a timing belt goes the motor will be ok as far as valve clearance but overheat is what to beware of. it wouldnt hurt to have the timing belts done(and seals, oil pump seal, water pump while it's apart) if you cannot verify the last service. typically factory original belts will go till about 135-145,000 mi so if your mileage is near that check into replacement. if you miles are beyond that it is likely they may have been serviced already. look up the article in the repair manual forum

that car has been accused of being one of my trashwagons. this one is too aesthetically wrong to be something of mine

i have a hard time finding 185-70's every where i go. they ar4e either out of stock or they dont have a complete sset or pair. ask for used tires as they may be more available. seems like the 13 will be extinct with 16 and 17 inch wheels these days...

imagine parking your car in the garage for a few days and when you get it out there is a cat with kittens that appeared since then(locked in the car). happened to me. i just put them in a box whre the car was parked

put some bolts thru some of the crucial points, like where the tailgate meets the sides and the top with some brackets, the bolts will help thension things together. welts can crack. i would trust my own welts but i would tie in bolts wherever i can as well, welds do crack if they dont go deep enough

if you find a gen 2 ea71 (fat case engine) from a 1600 dl hatch or standard hatch (1983-4 or newer) they have the ea71 block that matches ea81 physiucal dimensions, if you find this motor you can swap on your old bellhousing to fit on the new motor.

looks to me to kelp mix up the gases with air, but then again, it reminds me of a balance pipe on a dual exhaust, the gases and air would probably reverberate in this passage, pulsing type forces, and hence the check valve on the pcv to keep the gases moving in one direction. it may be there for whatever gases would otherwise pass thru to the atmospehere(emissions control)

if the shaft was a sliding yoke then yhat would work. on the subaru and specific to its suspension geometry the axle changes length through out its arc hence the DOJ joint to allow for this

the pcv is designed to cause a draft acoss the engine by introdicing air in one side and fumes out the other. the valve controls the flow of the gases in one diretion, otherwise the same gas would pulse in and out but not circulate(as you describe) the hoses will be on one side will let in fresh air from the air filter, the ther side will connect to the pcv valve itself

just swap on the window crank itself. none of it is reiveted in like some ford, its all 10mm bolts. you can change the mechanisn without removing the glass. once you get the door panel off it's starign at you.

i ended up with an 87 gl wagon from the ba/be rally (http://www.baberally.com) the dudes who gave it up had it registered in new hampshire with no title(older than 10 or 15 years) supposedly in wisconsin i can title it with a hand written bill of sale. in indiana you have to have a police VIN affidavit for out of state cars even with title

tou may as well pul lthe steering wheel and center it. the steering with therack and tie rods has not changed, so this willbe ok when i changed my front crossmember from a fwd sedan to a 4wd wagon one, my steering wheel was upside down. this is due to where the pinch bolt fits with the notch on the shafts. i just need to flip the wheel 180

all you really need are the belts. the tensioners are not necessary unless they are sqaualling or you just want to be that particular or spend the money, especially in a land where rust does not exist. here is what you do: eliminate the timing belt covers ant run the belts totally exposed. keeps oil and crap out of them, and the next time you have to change the belts(and tensioners) it will only take 20 minutes. if that sounds scary search for "open belts" for many anecdotals pro or con also makes easy access for future repairs like oil pump seals and what-not

i meant guy wires, like what you see holding utility poles in place, that is wat they do. the idea is to stabilize the platform. its not a stupid idea. i am more or less suggesting ideas based on the fact that i install hitches all day and put on coil springs, towed subarus with subarus and am knowledgeable with towing systems. 300 lbs is not necessarily overloading a subaru

this is not true for EA82 models. this only applies to ea81's the ea82 gas tank has the indentation for the doff already as it is.