MilesFox

That is too dope.

for 89 the ea82t eliminated the EGR. You should be able to run without it. You shouldnt get a engine lite if the solenoid is still present and plugged in.

The bearings are shot. It takes little more effort to change them than doing the axle. This work can be done with minimal tools and clever technique.

mine has an xt6 steering rack connected to the ej pump, no mods other than bending the bracket

Supposedly, the slotted wheels on turbo ss sedans and 95-96 legacy outback are the desired wheels for rally wheels.

he said 'banana dooker'

You could go the plasti-dip route until you get the scratch to repaint the original color

noise: slack in belt tension (backlash) timing retarded? the belt slipped a tooth. Otherwise, the rotor set screw may have has sheared. These are guesses based on circumstance. Good luck

No that will not be necessary, as you can work around the radiator and the water pump. Do yourself a favor and leave the covers off until you know the car is solid and you can seal it up for good. Just leave them off anyway, and you will thank yourself the next time you service the car. There is the argement of covers vs not, but any risk with exposed belts is outweighd by making a 2 hour job a 10 minute job.

I had a carb apart and back together on an 86 gl. it would run fine until i got in it and tried to go, an as soon as i got to the top of 2nd gear, it would run like crap and be undriveable. Turned out to be the intake gasket. A simple fix that is easy to overlook. IF this is not the case, it is wise to do them as PM if you can do it without breaking bolts. The condition of the bolts will be based on how rusty(road salt) of an environment you live, if the car has sat for long periods, or how frequently the cooling system had been serviced. The threads go thru into the water jacket, and rust forms up the shank of the bolt in the intake holes. I suggest this as a repair or torubleshoot only once you are CERTAIN the timing belts and distributor are properly in time. IF you have been moving the cam a notch here and there, i suggest you just take out the belts and start all over following the vids and the write ups

The xt6 trans is rather strong, supposedly stronger than a wrx 5spd, but altogether the same basic architecture. All of this that applies is general knowledge when it comes to putting ej engines into gl/xt bodies. There are plenty of examples of ej22 engines stuffed into gl's withthe same modifications mentioned abve. It would be less work to use an already turbo xt or swap in a turbo crossmember into the xt6. For example, i have an 86 gl coupe, with xt6 front crossmember and suspension/driveline, with an ej251 from an o1 impreza, withthe same wiring harness chop, bellhousing adapter, and supporting mods you will be into. Searc around for topics related to 'ej swap' find the tutorials, and that will be your basis, and then the specifics tot he wrx turbo engine applied to that.

Intake gaskets. Do them, I bet you a dollar. Runs fine until warm, sucks coolant like a head gasket, but without the compression loss. Don't twist off the bolts. avoikd this by using SSLLLOOOWWWW even torque, DO NOT turn the bolt faster than it can twist or you will snap it. Ise a longer tool for better control, and do not bounce the tool. Do your homework on intake bolts

It is standard practice to re-torque the wheel lugs after 75 miles or so. Anyone who performs tire mounting or rotation professionally should require you to come back for re-torque. I work at an oil change center that does tire rotations. We have to customer sign a waiver agreeing to come back for re-torque. We use a chart to determne torque, use torque sticks with an impact to set the lugs, and then foloow through with a torque wrench. Usually the torque sticks fall a few pounds short of their rating, thus requiring the torque wrench to be certain. This is most important with aluminum wheels. It is also important to not overtorque the wheels. The wheel fell off the managers car a week after he rotated, as he dod not re-torque. this also happend to a buddy whom i did his brakes on his subaru, which i told hom to go back to his tire man for a re-torque since he had not yet after rotating the tires just before having me do the brakes. The symptoms would give you fair warning to pull over ans check the lug nuts before the wheels fall off. But in any case, a loose lug not will start wobbling, get exponentially worse, and then fail right away. It is up to you to recognize the lugs are loose, as if you are wondering what the noises are, the wheel will soon fall off to let you know that is what is happening.

YOu get spark and fuel pressure because the belt is still turning the distributor which sends the spark and fuel signal to the ecu, although since half your belt fell apart, i'm sure it is a few teeth off if not more, being out of time. Ineresting belt failure pics. I have only seen the snap cleanly, shear off some teeth while the belt is intact, or unravel into a 50 ft long ball of wire. Def. do the water pump while in there. avoud chan stores and stick to smething like napa and go with an aisin brand mfg'd new or napa's alltrom brand for oem supply (made in japan)

It will fit on the rim. the wheel will be roughly the same width, with a slightly taller sidewall. the 225 is width in millimeters, and the 50 or 60 is the percent of that with in sidewall height; an aspect ratio. What you want to be sure of is fitment between the tire and the strut spring perch. This should fit, as the tires will only be slightly larger in diameter. within an inch. If you have more than an inch between your current wheels and the strut perch, go for it. According to the tire size calculator Tire Size Comparison Specification Sidewall Radius Diameter Circumference Revs/Mile Difference225/60-17 5.3in 13.8in 27.6in 86.8in 730 0.0%225/50-17 4.4in 12.9in 25.9in 81.2in 780 -6.4%

If the timing was off by 3 marks, it may be off again. It can only be off by having a failed tensioner. So you correct it, and it fails again if the tensioner is failed. It is unusual that the timing would be off as a random occurrence unless it was installed wrong in the first place. Suggest replacing the tensioner based on your circumstance. If it slips more than that, It can crash the vales. Be careful!

^^ What i mean about the ej25d being a write off is that it is least desired, usually, and can be replaced by swap. I didn;t mean that having one already is useless and should be abandoned. If you haven't overheated it already, it is salvageable. If it had been cooked replace it. Not to say that a misfire is a junk engine! Good luck. Given the 2 years, it is possible the plug wires are failing. Use NGK or oem quality. Subarus are picky about which quality of ignition parts.

Check your timing. If you had the belts apart, you may be clocked a tooth too advanced. try retarding the disty back all the way. timing should be 20deg btdc. The engine will run past 35 degrees. This would only be possible if you had removed the disty, but the range of adjustment at normal position will allow the timing up thru 30 degrees. Please follow the ea82 timing belt procedure and double check all your marks. This is in regard to pinging, as you describe dieseling and fuel grade. Otherwise, if it were lifter tick, rebuild the cam towers and replace the o-ring if you hadn't already, and clean out the tiny passages on the pressure relief pipe that spans the cam tower

The reason for removing the driveshaft was to eliminate drive to the rear axle, swhich binds up the clutches when the duty c is failed. The FWD fuse supplies voltage tot he duty c 100% to keep the clutches disengaged.when the duty c fails, the clutches remain engaged. If the FWD fuse is keeping the bind from occurring before removing the driveshaft, then it will not be necessary to have the FWD fuse in place as to not overburden the duty c solenoid. If the duty c is failed, then this is why you are removing the driveshaft. placing the FWD fuse is not helping anything as you have removed the driveshaft instead. It is best to leave the FWD fuse out if this is the case, so that you do not have live circuit to a failed component. With the driving around with no driveshaft, you can basically drive like this forever, until basically the clutch basket sheares off (which it likely won't) Consider any fluid changes after making the repair.

The 6 months would have been the time to schedule a repair. You might be successful with it again, but be prepared to replace the radiator or water pump when the job is finally done. Compare your labor rate withthe book value of the car and see if the cost is worth it vs buying another car and selling this one as-is) anything within $1500 is within reason. This also depends on how many replacement parts, seals, timing belt, etc. It's best to do all of this as routine anyway, having been done buys you another 100,000 mi. It would cost as much for a low mile salvage angine plus labor to evventually fail in the same manner. generally, based ont he skill of the mechanic, new hg's are a permanent fix. The head gasket issue is a known pattern failure. What happens is there becomes an external leak, which causes a low volume of coolant, which causes an overheat, which causes a bad head gasket. Infrequent cooling system maintenance is a contributing factor to hg failure as well, especially tanything that goes beyond 100,000 mi without at least a coolant exchange(usually done with timing belt and water pump) if the car sees 150,000 mi on its original coolant

You would have to be certain of your exhaust repair to determine the dollar bill trick for troubleshooting. A slight leak int he exhaust would simulate the same conditions for the dollar bill trick. Do a compression test. Inspect your wires. Do a 'dark test' where you let the engine run in the dark and look for spark getting past the wires. Observe for bubbles in the overflow tank when the car is at temp and running. Not to rule out burned valve, as i have no experience with them, but do rule out the other possibilities by troubleshooting. Doing the valves or doing the head gaskets is all in the same work. The ej25d engine could be a write off. a 1995 ej22 plugs right in. check your build date and the ej25d as 99 was a transition year to the ej251 engine. Dropping in a whole 2.2 would be less labor than valves or heads. You could consider replacing the heads with 2.2 for higher compression (premium fuel) and extra performance. You will need heads from90-95, and you must have a 95-98 intake and harness, pref. with EGR

Is this a manual trans, or automatic. The problem with manual trans is the voscous coupling will be seeing excessive differential in rotation and slip until trying to grab, and this would be why you can't exceed 30 mph as it is not fully engaging, or you wil have to rev it up with load, forcing it to grab, which is stressful on the part. With an automatic, the car will not hold park when not running, and whie driving, the engine and trans will rev up until the rear clutches all of a sudden grab until you let off the throttle again. this is very jarring to the driveline. You can fool the automatic trans by interceptig the duty c circuit and forcing the duty c to engage the rear axle 100%, making the car drivable. There is a grey waire pin 11 on the trans harness that you disconnect and ground out to allow this function. I did this with my car and drove it for a week pizza delivery. I had not grounded out the wire, and it worked, but the tcu should see ground anyway. you cn remove the axle if it broke on the outer end, as long as the outer end remains in the hub to contain the bearings.

You should be able to pop out the axle by disconnecting the strut from the knuckle. It may be a tight fit, though. But once you get the knuckle out, you can service the wheel bearing. I caution you that if the bolt is that hard to remove, removing the entire rear subframe my break off some captive nuts, further complicating the job and causing excessive labor and down time.

Turn it out with an impact whele levering it out with a pry bar. take some lesons from the folks in the rust belt. ATF is a good penetrating fluid and would work well by itself

running the FWD fuse is not recommended as it puts unduy stress n the duty c solenoid. The analogy to an ac compressor being extra weight but no load is analagous to the engine running with the trans in neutral (no load) The rolling resistance of the AWD components are still engaged with the wheels while driving. The fuel economy of a forester is based on its final drive gearing, not the awd