MilesFox

had a turbo with a bad rod. pulled the heads to swap onto a carb block one head was a gen 1, the other a gen 2 both heads had cracks between the valves both cracks went all the way down to the VALVE GUIDES ported out the headfs and used them on my carb block build, no problems! paranoia didnt stop me from putting the motor together. if i would have had to spend some money on this project, i would see how it holds up first, then soak it. so far no soak

i will be in sidney ohio this friday. i would be out through ohio again in ay i could plan a stop on my way to NY mostl of my "customers" turn out to be in ohio

for struts i used 2wd legacy struts. the part where the knuckle is boltedto is a little wider so the bolts will have to pinch it down i have seen an xt6 converted fro air strut with an ipreza strut as it was labeled from the salvage. the one tab for the knuckle ount wascut off flush and re-welded for the proper width of the knuckle casting a tapered reamer will do for the ball joints. tie rods should fot the sae but if not swap on xt6's outers to the inner rods

the xt6 axles are 25 spline. the dual range tranny is 23 splines BUT with the 3at TURBO axles, the doj is swappable onto the xt6 axles since they are the same diaeter, but still 23 splines OR you can use impreza 1.8 fwd axles, since they are 23 splines, and fit the same as the xt6 axles

forget theidea and forget what they say, just get a cherry bomb(glasspack muffler), that would be a "real" mod to start with, and get the results you want. but just because the car is louder doesnt mean its faster. may feel faster only because the sound makes you want to get on it! but the cherry bob will fatten out the torque curve and open it up on the highway, help cruising MPG PLEASE stay away from goofy stickers and ridiculous wings. oil and temp gauges are good because they are actually useful have fun, but learn about how a car works before trying to modify it, this isn't a video game when it comes to building a car! http://www.trashwagon.com

does your distributor have a round white(or black) connector? this would be the 86 styledisty connector. the 87 and upwould have a square connector i would believe, as it would be on 87 and later, the disty plugs into the harness under the oil, not on the intake you can improvise a connection and match toe color of wires, or try to find an 87 or later disty, or at least the wire from one describe this extra connector on the intake, what color/shape is it and where located?

your mechanic installed the belts wrong. he installed them with both cams up instead of 180 apart tell him to rotate the crank 360 after the first belt before installing the second belt happens more often than you think here is the timing belt article. this is for a for a 4 cylinder but the alignents are the same http://www.economysuperstar.com/milesfox/subaru/service/timingbelt.htm print this out for your mechanic

before you do all that check to see if the fuel lines are connected correctly the line off the filter will connect to the iddle and highest line on the intake, the return line is the other, and the skinny is the vapor breather. the fuel coes into the rails BEFORE the INJECTOR side, and the return line is AFTER the fuel pressure REGULATOR

the vibration in the shifter could possibly be the driveshaft u-joints. it will be cheaper to replace theREARHALF of the driveshaft witha salvage one, swap in, vs having the existingreplaced asit requires a slight bit of achining and a press to replace them the rear half of the driveshaft is the same for any ea82 car, 85-94 and xts's should you have the u-joints replaed, toyota joints willwork. if you have this done have it done at a shop that is experienced withstaked u-joints if you got the salvage driveshaft instead its a matter of 8 12mm bolts to replace it i would agree with the advice to hold off on oil leaks until the timing belts are due i would avoid the oil stop leak additives, just use the max life, or themax life additive to new oil before you change your oil, run 1/2 to 1 quart of ATF in the oil for about a days worth of driving, to help clean the oil passges and the hydraulic lifters if you want to read more about servicing the car check my website: http://www.economysuperstar.com/milesfox/subaru/service/service.htm you can refer to these articles yourself or print theout for anyone you would find to do the work for you

i concurr. drop the steering column. pay as well pull it our bt reoving the bolt on the colun side of the u-joint under the hood with the column in the car you will have to aneuver the assembly quite a bit to get it in/out

moisture in the distribulator. leave the cap off overnite to air out, shoot it up with some wd-40 had the same problem yself after hosing down the motor. i took out the disty and blew it our with air, dried it up what i could. problem solved

the 4 spd AT has 25 splines. your 5spd is 23 splines. you will have to swap the WHOLE AXLE with a 23 spline. the only exception, you can swap the doj(inner cup) with one from a TURBO 3SPD AT as the doj itself is the same diameter as the 25 spline, but has 23 spline source some regular 23 spline axles if you have a choice for axles, such as buying new ones, order a set for a 3spd turbo AT, since this will be the right spline(23), but the axle itself will be thickest, the same turbo rated axles as the 25 spline

86 is the only year where the connectors were different you can swap the wiring harness off the intakes, or just swap the whole intake as well if you notice the 86's intake boot has a hose between the airbox and itself, where the 88 does not. you can keep this boot and airbox or swap use the boot and airbox fro the 88 if the connector on the distributor is different, you can swap the pigtail f ro it or the whole disty itself as far as the individual coponents that the connectors may differ, they all work the same

introduce an exhaust leak, basically soe sort of air entry behind the y pipe before the muffler. this may get a back fire, or atleast cackling when downshifting

how about slotted adjustable cam pulleys?

what is the timing set at? perhaps it is set too low? the distributor and ecu will autoatically knock back the tiing as necessary, but could only increase to the amount set initially. not turbo related but power related as far as the disty is concerned, on mmy spfi sedan after last years subaru alliance off road meet, my car seemed rather boggy and had no rpm power. pulled over and had a look, the disty set screw was loose and the distributor retarded itself from its own rotation. bumped it back up and the car was normal again

155,000 miles is not terribly too many for an older subaru. chances are, being a one owner car, and the mileage on the care now, it most likely seen some sort of service between 75,000 and 125,000 miles. please report back with the servicehistory if it is available i wouldnt worry about a new motor. if the car runs fine and no onementioned the copression, you would never have thought it needs a new motor. you can run 10w-40 or 15-w40(what i use) oil if you like. as far as additives, you can use valvoline max life oil to prolong the existing seals max life also comes as an additive bottle to put with your favorite oil if you spend mmoney on the car keep it within 500 bucks for the timing belts/cam and crank seals/oil pump SEALS/and NEW water pump. this would be sound investment for the next 75000 miles at least you could attempt the work yourself if you are handy with your hands-on-ness. for the steep hills downshift,use3rd gear even. the rpmswont hurt the otor, better than bogging it down. if you shiftinto a gear to keep the rpms between 3000 and 4000 rpms theotor will perform very well. this is with the short throw of the crank and the gearing of the transmission. the engine is most efficient between 2500 and 3500 rpms andost powerful between 3500 and 4500 rpms

there is a 1/4" inch hose between the therostathousing andthe top of the block, chances are this is leaking

take off the driver side timing belt cover. turn the crank until the dot on the cap faces up at 12'o'clock position. on the flywheel the 3 marks will be in view. turn the crank from this point until you see the 0deg btdc mark once you align the 0 deg mark, check the distributor rotor position. chances are you were 180 off and now its a shotinthe dark with the o deg marks lined up, alicn the rotor to the #1 position, which will be farthest back just to the right of the screw for thecap

pop out the off button and the DEF button. remove the screws. leave the selector unit with the car

indiana, ohio, and presently wisconsin. i represent all 3. i did meetwith a guyin chicago but dontknowanyone in illinois been to iowa too. michigan as well. milwaukee wisconsin is fairly equidistant for this region of the upper midwest imm down for a meet this summer should any of us organizes a place and a day

that is cheaper than what tim paid for a lexus es250 (toyota camry) radiator

with all the malarky of remmoving the crank pulley, the dipstick, the ac/alt assembly, i would recomend reomoving the timing belt covers. this will make future maintenance breezy! normally one would say do the water pump and oil pump at the same time. but if time or dollars are a limit, leaving the belts open will allow for future replacement of the waterpump without removing the crank pulley or a bunch of plastic. doing the oil pump would require removing the belts, but changing the belts would only be a 15 in job using 2 tools lining up the cam pulleys witn no plastic reference marks, the dot on the ca will line up to the valve cover gasket seam read more: http://www.economysuperstar.com/milesfox/subaru/service/service.htm