MilesFox

once i get y flash card back from T-dub and a pair of AA's then i will put up pics! so long as i dont go to jail or let the car get impounded. believe it or not TRASHWAGON5 holds the record for the longest i have owned, and escaped impoundment all the while, even during the going-out-west wcss5 ordeal, all the way until the EXACT MOMENT it returned to Butler, IN as far as trashwagoneering goes, i think(for now) i will restore it to its forer glory, fix the rust and replace the stereo console with one that isnot chopped up with soe junk rump roast cd player, i would prefer the factory radio and an ASHTRAY i do have an 83 turbo wagon that could lend its doors, sae color but i will gain 4x4 TURBO graphics fixing the rust, obviously it will warant paint, so we may get some sort of trashwagon striping on the original gold body color, the paint from the trim up is PERFECT and will BUFF TO A HIGH GLOSS!

1. There doesn't seem to be enough suction getting to the lever thing. However, there don't seem to be any leaks or cracks...all of the vacuum connections suck at about 20(on a vacuum meter guage thingy) the 4wd is actuated by vacuum to a diaphragm at the transmission. check your vacuum there. suppose the diaphragm itself has a leak? 2. We discovered that you can get it into 4WD by taking the right solenoid hose and switching it to the left solenoid(the one that is activated by pressing the 4WD button) and plugging the left hole with the tip of my finger(This was with the button at the ON position) This caused the dash light to come on also. Suppose the 4wd was working to begin with, switching these hoses will cause the swithc to work inversely. that is, when the button os off the 4wd will be engaged, and it will disengage when pressed 3. While taking the car for a quick spin while making sharp turns the rear was similar to a live (1 piece) axel. the inside wheel would spin, while the outside wheel would slide. Not good. torque bind fro the differences in rotation between the front and rear axles across the transission 4wd "transfer case" (really a direct drive off the front diff) 4. It also got stuck in 4WD until I drove in reverse. same as above. 4wd should be used only on slippery surfaces, ud, snow, sand, gravel HEAVY rain. engage and disengage 4wd with the steering straight ahead while moving. what you describe is typical of 4wd engageent such as when you drive onto a dry surface before disengaging it So what do yall think? i think this: we know the 4wd mechanism itself works. you know you have vacuum. i would suggest the diaphragm is bad on one side, or there may be a vac leak between the solenoids and the diaphragm if you disconnected the diaphragm fro the threaded rod to the tranny you can manually operate the 4wd mechanism in the tranny. this is what subieecch refers to by "getting rid of all that crap and install a lever" to source another diaphragm, any will work fro any 4wd pushbutton tranny, or any full tie tranny with a diff lock one more thing you can try is: do like you did switching the vac lines to engage the 4wd this way. then re-connect them like they were, then turn the button off to see if it disengages. if this works, then you have no vac on the engage side of the diaphragm if this does not work, then you possibly have no vac to the engage solenoid, or that solenoid couldbebad. check for volts at both solenoids

yeah i not trying to be rude or showing off, i have bad luck but it sees to be parallelled by equally good luck. i started out once with a 400 dollar car, soaked in it with parts fro all y other cars/junkers, have about 1500 spent on road trips out west, going to jail, and bringing it back a year later, just to wreck/part out/junk the dan thing. but hey, the costs were worth the experiencees, ,even though i no longer have this car. makes for a good movie, and the driveline exists in 2 cars, one of which is a replica using the same motor. fun ties, like i said. read the first sentence

Found me an 83 Gl wagon 4wd dual range. gold with tan interior. new exhaust, 75,000 original miles! BUT, broken front axle, 3rd gear synchro is out, wont go into lo-range(donut time!) so not bad finding an almost MINT ea81 with a "rwd conversion" picked it up for 200 bucks. removed the bad axle immediately with a haer and a punch the steering was funny so i got underneath and saw a bent radius rod(opposite the bad axle) so at work today u-haul lent its services with the hitch rap, air tools, and the good ol carpet steam cleaner. now only if i had enough money left to put gas it it! the body is ROcK SOLID except fpr the typical rust on the rear wheel arches and the bottos of the doors. rockers are pretty solid but surface rusty i would like this car to last me the next 20 years and 300,000 miles

lets compare this to what it could have been: car: $800 maintanence(water pump, t belts, etc.) 50-75 bucks if you did the work yourself exhaust: 20 bucks for pipe lenghts, 20 bucks for a muffler, use of a welder tint: $50 bucks self-installed head gasket set: $80 altenater: $65 labor (stuff i didnt know how to do): didnt need the heads shaved new engine: still didnt need the heads shaved Tires and misc parts: $150 total:1270, still within the book value now lets compare this to one of my cars 88 sedan: free car less motor, already converted to dual range 4wd fro a 2wd AT motor: exchange for doing work on soobs, with seals also(had to put them on) another crank seal: 10 bucks (after filing the burr off the crank snout) exhaust: 20 dollar cherry bomb, a 5 dollar flange, and soe pipe laying around mass airflow sensor, ecu temp sensor, and 02 sensor: pocket items at junkyard-free tire after driving on rim-25 bucks mounted and valve stem another motor and transmission: 440 dollars, from a parts car, half the miles gaskets:150 dollars(head set, exhaust gaskets 2 oil pan gaskets), u-haul discount from napa, only because i ported the heads impound fees: 340 dollars (non-registered car abandoned in us after stuck) grand total: 850 bucks substitute the impound fees for title and registration total:610 dollars doing the head gaskets instead of swapping from a parts car total: 170 now if i couold find a way to spend 5000 dollars on my 800 dollar car..........

for those who fear electricity read below. for those who dont , just use the ol button alone. the "horn button switch" fro autozone is perfect. any moentary push button for an autootive application will work just fine such as my sedan that has had the pushbutton for over 20,000 miles the only button that "failed" as in the aforementioned fear of electricity, was one that came with a set of foglights to deonstrate the led ring while still in the box on the shelf

do this once: change the heater vent selections fro DEF, BILEV, FLOOR, etc. if all of these settings blow out of the DASH VENTS only, thgis will confirm a vacuum issue look for a rather skinny line coing off the passenger side of the intake going to the vac canister. a lot of ties this falls off when working under the hood, and is overlooked! also follow the plastic lines fro the vac canister to the other side of the car

pump shafts and torque converters fit too. all this fits between ea81 and ea81 turbo and non turbo 3at's the only "physical" difference in torque convertersis the stall rate

if it dont fit in your pocket toss it over the fence! you could replace the u-joints with toyota's, if you had the tools to unstake and press the out as far as the driveshaft, both u-joints are on the rear half, so next time just take the rear half and continue your 11.50 price. you just have to do omre work(separate the 2 after its out of the car) just to leave behind a part that will be useless for anyone else, unless you can talk themm into giving it to you for free. and also, the rear half is the same lenght for any at and mt tranny

its like the time i left this dude in my garage to strip down a soob while i ran after something for a few minutes. when i come back, the dashboard is still in the car. whatever had been removed was broken. and i find dude in the driveway telling me my camper is stuck in 4th gear, and the trashwagon was stuck where it sat. and this dude just doesnt get it, asks be to borrow my car after not returning with it the day before.

(mods im not sure where to post but there is no new post button except for this forum, please move this topic to the most appropriate forum) I have captured a great many of the diagrams from the FSM pdf files posted here recently. the diagrams are JPG format for your viewing and linking ease! here is where they are hosted: http://www.economysuperstar.com/milesfox/gallery/diagrams/ feel free to link to any of the diagrams for posts or articles, or download them for your own use

Lafayette, IN. subaru legacy is built there. the BAJA is built EXCLUSIVELY there as well for those of you with legacies look for the indiana logo on the side windows

if your car is a TURBO 5spd then you can use the xt6 suspension. if yourcar is turbo automatic or any non turbo, the xt6 parts will fit if you use axles for a 1993 IMPREZA fwd 5spd wagon 1.8 liter but to use the xt6 parts up front you will have to swap in the xt lower control arm or use a tapered reamer to enlarge the ball joint hole impreza strut/knucle assembly will fit up front withthe same ball joint mod but you will lose the parking brake the xt6 swaybar is swappable the rear suspension for xt is swappable entirely. all you will need is the brake parts in rear, backing plate, hub, rotor, calipers. if you swap the whole trailing arms you can use the xt suspension any coilover suspensions will swap in, the rear just swap in the coilover struts, and in front use a strut/spring assembly as one piece for a swap. 4wd wagons will have the most lift. 2wd xts will be the lowest

.... or have them replace the one tire with one that isthe same size as the rest of them

pop out the ball joint and or the tie rod so you can turn the knuckle around(assumuing axle is out) anyway the part of the knuckle the strut goes into is hollow, you can tap the bottom of the strut with a hammer out from the underside of the knuckle collar that holds the strut

yo brian good job, damned if it werent for them damn motor mounts! you should be fine with stock timing and regular gas. as so with my car and its carb block, have no issues. with an intercooler you could get way with bumping up the timing or maybe playing with the boost. and if you get too scared use premium gas! but really, stock timing and boost are good to go. you should have more bottom end pull so you dont have to spool the turbo so much to get going, plus you can lug a lower rpm when cruising in town, and still pick up from there. my car does great at 2500 rpm cruise in 4th gear at 30-40 mph, 5th gear at 45 welcome to the carb block turbo club. enjoy!

tom is rught. i got a gl-10 turbo wagon with the otor in the way-back(trashwagon6). swapped in a carb ea82. youwill have to swap in a carb fuel pup and hotwire it to a toggle, or a relay tripped by the (+) coil terminal use the carb disty with the carb otor as it would be any other day. connect the wires fro the disty to the coil. the coil, ign and tachometer will all work the sa e, even digital dash my particular car went from otor in the trunk to carb to turbo(otor fro trunk till it crapped) then carb again with a swap of ea81 carter weber and ea82 hitachi. the car now had a coplete RX driveline, still a carb block, but this time as a turbo and with this application by leaving the original pfi circuits intact, just leave the dead plugs loose until you plug the back into another turbo motor i contemplate and would rather believe it is possible to use the MPFI distributor, since it will put a signal for the cpil to fire and to the fuel pump, you could wire the carb pup tho the FI pumps wires this way.(i have read of carb australian models with optical distributors)

push the bulbs up and down in thir sockets. or putsomedi-electric grease inthe sockets. 9 times out of 10 at u-haul(at work) a dead light can be fixed by merely wiggling and twisting the bulb

greetings from wisconsin? how far are you from milwaukee? you can swap in an ea82 and use the same intake and tranny. so much with this if you felt like it you can swap in the wiring harness for spfi and turbo also a 5spd tranny can be swapped in as well. a 5spd over the 4spd with the samme otor will be more beneficial than a different motor with the same tranny http://www.economysuperstar.com/milesfox/subaru/subaru.htm

86 was theonly year spfi connectors are under the dash (and iac tube to the air box) anyway the white(or black connectors should be immediately there next to the green connectors

i agree with tomrhere and rguyver the design of the firing order, each bank fires at a time, with both pistons oneach side firing almost simultaneously basically a pulse from each alternating side. an open port motor will have a bloop bloop sound as it runs, but the pulse is very choppy yet, one side at a timme the firing order is what is going to produce the sound initially. the exhaust itself will determine the pitch and drone of the pulse. PERIOD:headbang:

all fenders fit the same. i have a gl-10 sedan fender on the rx 3door if you are using the rx fendes get both! as the rs fender has the holesandthe mounting for the air damm on my rx i had to make holesin the gl-10 fenders once the bumper is removed there are all your bolts. if they break off the junker no problem, but be careful on your car! expect to break one or a few, use pb spray and work the boltsback and forth, dont torque them too hard alsoopen the doors to get at the bolts on the rear half of the fender

i generally see 185/70 and 175/70 as stock sizes on older soobs,especially 4wd as far as the tire is concerned, it will fit on the rim no problem and be proper for the car. just be sure all of your tires are the same size!! a 185/70 will fit under the hood

take a good hard look at an spfi. on the spfi the iac valve connects to the intake boot. the passenger pcv connects to the boot as well the driver side goes to a fitting between it and the pcv valve, with a smaller fitting on tee to plug into the boot you aybe able to connect everythignusing a mix of mpfi and spfi fittings and hoses hopefully the diagram helpsifyou had to figure it out and invent routing

the cover near the fan switch would havebeenthefan switch for 85 and 86, and where the fan switch exists now wouldbe the wiper switch for 85 and 86