MilesFox

the motor is designed to coe out in one piece. you can leave the intake and turbo on the motor. aside fro the a/c, if the system was "purged" you can leave all that on themotor. otherwise, the ac/alternator assembly canbe dismounted as a unit and swung over the strut with the ac lines still intact lifting points for themotor are the hole inthe power steering bracket, and the pitch bar mount with the bolt. i use a chain with quick connecotors at these points. beware of clevis hooks on the power steering bracket, if the hookis too big and doesnt fit thru allthe way this part can break off. a u-haul trailer chain is perfect, a chain not too big like a log chain but not wimpy like a dog chain. to pull the motor out you will want to jack the tranny up enough that the motor ounts coe upandout of their holes on the engine frame the unbolt the exhaust pipe from the back of the turbo. this downpipe is mounted to the tranny, it is not necessary to remove it. the otor will pull away fro the bellhousing and the downpipe the same all in the same motion it is to your discretion toremove the down pipe once themotor isout for ease of installation(liningup clutch and stuff) but is not absolutely necessary here is a write-up with pictures of the turbo engine as the exammple http://www.economysuperstar.com/milesfox/subaru/service/engineremoval.htm

depending on your driving environment, an ideal find would be like an 88 gl with dual range 4wd and spfi. if you dont mind working on the car, keeping up on things like the tiing belts will keep the car on the road for agreat any of miles! as far as learning about cars, subaru is a good car to learn with

is the tranny on a jack? take out the pitch bar if it has been installed already. you can jack the tranny enough for the studs to hover over their holes. you can twist and aneuver the otor about to line up lower the jack enough so the studs touch the frae with a little bit of weight. use a long screwdriver, crowbar, etc, you can walk thestuds around till they go in their holes, one at a time if this still proves to be difficult, loosen the motor mounts theselves from the motor, just enough that you can wiggle them. its easiest to get the front bolt from underneath and the back bolt from above behind the motor

check in the passenger side rear cargo holds. the wiring for the tank is therebehind a etal bracket my lo fuel lite didnt work till i found the yellow wire there was broken (mud and rust)

how is your otor blown up? head gaskets can be fixed. broken timing belts dont hurt anything the intake on the 87 will fit on an ea81 if you go that route

here is some common repair references, and a service anual to download http://www.economysuperstar.com/milesfox/subaru/subaru.htm

i had to do this on the 78 toyota caper(blunt cruiser) usinf one of the hoses from the sink and a gatorade bottle, coupled into the fuel lines with the tip end of a u-haul pen one time in the 85 "pyostey-dook" wagon the fuel lines broke off at the pup so i tore the pump out and mounted it under the hood to a 1/2 gallon gas can dont let e tell you about gas cans now..

1/4"

i'll put it up too. this way no ones server in particular gets hit all at once. we should compile a list of these links in the usrm. http://www.economysuperstar.com/milesfox/subaru/downloads.htm feel free to download the other files on this page and host the as well (please allow time for the upload and link update)

the hill holder is too tight. the cable adjusts at the clutch fork, its the lower nut that faces the back, you can turn it by hand dont let the mechanics replace everything before looking at this first

go to wikipedia.com and search "subaru legacy" there is an article about a speed endurance record

iwould suppose maybe the head dropped a valve seat.

are you meaning the axle wobblesaround on the tranny stubs? both trannies have 23 spline shafts what part of the axle specifically "moves in and out"?

i find the HAYNES schematics quite helpful myself

pretty much thread the nut on till its snug with a breaker bar, then torque it down 1/4 turn and this will approxiate the torque value

some points to remember about 4wd- engage-disengage 4wd when the wheels are straight if the lever wont disengage, reverse the exact same arc which you had just turned. or run the vehicle straight, backward and forward about the 2-3 car lenghts also if the 4wd is stuck find a patch of sand or gravel, or some grass, maybe goose the throttle to ghirp a tire and relieve its bind fwd and 4wd can be engaged on-the-fly at any speed. 4wd can be driven at any speed. at any one constant speed without accel or decel you can shift into 4wd without clutching you can shift lo range at any speed but its necessary to clutch as if downshifting. 5th gear lo range is about the same as 3rd gear hi. this is what i mean "as if downshifting" lo range can be driven at any speed but its geared uch lower. but 4500 rpms at 45 mph in deep snow is how the car is meant to operate, and the way the engine is designed with its short throw and large bore the subaru owners manual will not recoend using lo range at hiway speeds or speeds excess of 55 mph in 4wd. this is mainly concern for fuel consumption and not so uch the limits of the car welcome to the USMB! you found the most comprehensive compilation of subaru information on all the internet! check out my website as well, http://www.economysuperstar.com/milesfox/subaru/subaru.htm

cost vs availability i would suggest trying to find a set of mpfi N/A cams as they definately have ore profile i run them on my spfi with the dual exhaust. y dual pipe is broken, going back to a y-and a cherry bomb. anyway it likes the timing up higher(with half open duals) i put it back down to stock and it dogged out(but this may have been better with the y pipe anyway my car pulls real good in lo rpm and opens up mid to hi rpm comes alive at 2500 rpms, torque curve is more like a turbo(at lo rpm)

good work. keep the old distributor around it should be handy one day:clap:

aftermarket vac solenoids and such coolant temp, throttle position, mass air flow sensors 25 SPLINE EA81 AXLES!!!!! stereo install kits metric bolts subaru size, mainly exhaust studs and mounting hardware(i.e. transission crosseber bolts with bushings bolt kits with nuts and washers for such applications as (exhaust studs and nuts) (engine bellhousing and motor mount) (intake bolt set) (flywheel bolts) (roll pin kits for axles all around) farm out byb and allied armament as vendors for custom parts and lift kits

crank angle sensor. take off the disty cap and let it air out. do you have a spare dist? sounds distribulator related to me. i myself would try to somewhat disassemble the disty and blow it out, etc

take out the 12m bolt. take off the long hex part. the pullet will come away. thread on the long hex part to the stud so you dont lose it. you can femmove the stud by sliding it all the wat to the hole on the end of the slot

Miles Fox's Subaru- Timing belt procedure http://www.ohiosubaru.com/forums/archive/index.php?t-949.html http://www.scoobymods.com/forums/showthread.php?p=15718

i have seen this before, on a loyale at jon's auto and truck. he got a 92 loyale and a parts car 86 sedan. in case the otor was bad anyway. i took of the cap and found the middle little nugget had fallen out. jon was surprised, gave e 10 bucks on the spot. gave e the parts car(runs and drive) and sold the loyale for $2,300

going to the BABE rally on the 23rd, so it will cut close with the proposed schedule this sumer