MilesFox

weep hole on the wather pump. when the car is warm its drying off faster than it can drip. the puddle under the car would be the overnite accumulations of drips off a cold motor

i'll go ahead and take credit for any inspirations:brow: !! anyway, covered vs not covered. oil and gunk vs projectile/debris open belts: pros- visual inspection. less work to do belts or seals or water/oil pump cleaner look. oil that leaks can fling off or drip away, rather than accumulate on the belts. if the belt is getting bad you will see it right away, rather than poking fingers thru holes off the side of the road cons- keep your loose rags tucked away securely! speculation about the bearings in the idler pulleys from being exposed. watch danglies when under the hood(as you would with all the rest of the belts anyways) projectiles/debris vs oil and gunk: i like a clean looking motor. uf anything leaks the ol car wash will take care of that. so far the ONLY REPORTED FAILURE DUE TO OPEN BELTS was from a loose rag that caught around the crankshaft, blowing both belts. this was on my car. so far not a problem in tall weeds, taller than myself, saplings, rocks, gravel, snow, water, mud. every now and then i'll find the evaporation canister riding on top of the timing belt, no harm(flip it back over the spfi inlet tube) one time i lost either a bolt or the oil fill cap, somtething of that nature, i discovered it riding atop the driver side belt between the oil pump and the tensioner it is to my belief and might as well say from seeing so myself, any debris are going to be knocked away by spinning belts before they would have a chance to get anywhere i might as well had a hay bail under my radiator when i pulled the motor but the belts have been just fine! tall grass and depris are more likely to puncture the radiator than to throw a belt last and not least. why worry when all you need is a spare belt and a 12mm deep socket?

put me in on this one

lots o' baja'n, open belts all day long. many motors, any miles (i invented open belts)

the ea82 strut cap SHOULD fit on the ej strut, thus not having to slot the holes. the axles will be 25spline,the proper lenght. 2wd impreza 1.8, 91 legacy 2wd AT are 23 splines work may involve the tie rod ends. the ball joint hole may need drilled out, can use xt6 lower control

suppose when you unplug the sensor and the car thinks its cold, wouldit run better?and if so there is your proble with the tmp sensor try unplugging the maf while the car runs. if the car stalls the maf should be good, but if it keeps running the maf is bad

you should get about 40-50 psi at 2500 rpms,per the HAYNES manual

check the engine temp sensor. its the one on the therostat housing with the green pigtail see if the car runs different when unplugged, or try cleaning the contacts pocket item at the junkyard, just bring the 17m wrench may as well get the MAF sensor too, just unscrew it fro the housing. be careful not to break off the filamments(if you put it in your pocket) beware that loyale MAF fits differently than pre loyale spfi's with the shape of the hole on the housing, ,but work the sae essentially

im in the iddle of a 2wdstickto4wd5spd conversion rught now. did the sae for soeone elses car. converted a few fwd autos to 4wd stick as well this essage board is where you'll find it, search for "4wd conversion"

tou will have to figure out the wiring for the reverse lights, or simplt mount a pair of rear facing fog lights and a toggle and leave it at that, but if you got the reverse4 lights working you can use the fog lights in conjunction or independently as far as the heutral safety, the car end of the connecotor for the AT shifter handle, its the 2 fattestwires in the iddle, jump them together and the key will work the starter or just use a pushbutton:D

speaking of porting and thin walls in the passages, i was porting a pair opf carb heads when i went through the exhaust wall to the dead space around the port casting where it would be above the motor mount. i craed jb weld putty in this cavity to block the hole, but i alsi figured it woule reinforce the head around the exhaust port, and act as a heat sink to keep any one particular spot fro being too hot. filled in the other head too for the sake of reinforcement and heat transfer i would consider doing this again to any other heads while they are apart. i would consider this a modification

if the threads seem intact enough to hold torque, use some loc-tite red to hold them in place i tile to use hi temp copper silicone rtv on both sides of the gasket. i have also tried the "gasket sandwich" with silicone when inventing ways to keep the exhaust. on. sure enough when you get the y pipe to stay on the heads the rest of the exhaust will fall apart!

my list indiana: myossfeece, zannydook, 1abaja, the local butler crowd ohio: 86subaru, alleyboy, biffanyus, soobscript, jason from columbus(sorry forgot the board name), noah(cis subaru), shadow(my first usmb meeting) trogdor from w va tomrhere in MI dude in chicago but forgot his name timm hansen, 88xt6joe, another guy from milwaukee who came to iowa2, mick knows who this is chef ti and vickaroo fro SD shawnw, eyesore, subiemech85, mcbrat from iowa kurt from missouri, the guy with the turbo brat from iowa2, who was the guy with the silver ea82wagon(that didnt get stuck) bradd from idaho, lupycam in WA qman, edrach, corky, caboobaru, bratwerst, ratty2subaru(Austin), flowmaster87, the guy with the rolledover brat from wcss5 and the other guy with the hatch and all its whizmos and gismos zap mudrat there are probably a few ore, oh yeah, the guy with the blue camo wagon in montana

paint white stripeson the outside of the black on the hood, and white from the wheel arches down and it would look like my next paint job (trashwagon 8). tim hansen, where's that pic you rendered of the "orange" paint job?

ZANNY DOOK!

THROTTLEPOSITION SENSOR let e guess, the car starts to go, then chokes out until BA ! it all kicks in. the TPS has an idle switch,and a wide open throttleswitch,and a variablebetween.check this out if you havent already

i would go with the crossed fuel line idea for spfi the hose off the filter goes to the BOTTOM fitting on the spfi throttle body on turbo its the middle line carb should be obvious

oil pump seals

ground the fuel pimp directly to the body. if this does not work the fuel pum p itself is shot

they gave you an axle for a 3spd automatic. all 3spd ats were 23 splines, including TURBO 3at. the difference is the turbo 3at axle is the same diameter as the 25 spline axle but has 23 splines if the axle doesnot fit your turbo then you must have a 4spd at, or FULL TIME if thats the case mention full time 4wd, or ask for a 5spd turbo

it will pop back in. there should ba a spring clip on the tranny end and just tap the stub back in if the clip is missing it will still work

if you put a 5spd tranny in the brat the front axles will fit the same. the tranny crossemberbetween ea81 ans ea82 are different, but you can swap over the existing tranny crossmember to the 5spd tranny the rear diff ratio will match. but, ,however, you will need the 2 pc driveshaft from an ea82 since the length of the tranny is different. you will have to m ake a mount for the center carrier bearing you m ight have to stack som e washers, a lug nut, or som e sort of spacer on the fork end of the clutch cable

on ea82 between front drive and 4wd flywheels, they bolt on the same but the inside where the disc goes the area is smaller, so a 4wd disc wont fit on the fwd flywheel ALL 4WD 5spds clutch/flywheel parts all fit the same, as well as driveshafts

the rear half of the driveshaft is all the same lenght. only the front half is different in length depending on the tranny. the rear half contains both u joints. the front half has the carrier. if you takeit off the parts car you might as well take the whole thing or leave it on the diff. keep the old one as a spare should the u joint go out when they say get the crossmember, leave it on the tranny and drop it as a unit from the car. , keep the longer bolts as you will n eed the where its just a body bolt on the AT

you will need the axles as well ,since the rx turbo 5spd is 25 splines, all turbo 5spds are 25 splines. all full tim e trannies are 25 spline including the 4spd at and the xt6 tranny the 3at is 23 splines, even turbo. the difference between 3at turbo axles and norm al axles is the 3at turbo axle has a fatter doj, although 23 splines its the sam e diam eter as 25 splines and the doj cup will swap onto 25 spline axles. basically 3at turbo axle is the fattest 23 spline axles you will need the 25 spline the rear diff is the proper ration, but swap in the lsd if the rx has one