MilesFox

"floppy carb syndrome" idles fast and hard to start. if you tighten them up they will loosen eventually. use loc-tite!!

i like ea81 bodies and ea82 drivelines. ea82 and dual range 5spd in an ea81 body is the way to go for me

my 90 loyale will start without the clutch, and has a split folding back seat. might as wellbe a GL with no options and no plastic on the tailgate corners. but it says loyale on the door must be a FIRST run of "loyale" i bet the mfr date is 89

lock the diff this will work. DO NOT ENGAGE/DISENGAGE diff lock when CAR IS IN MOTION!!! as far as the hubs the axle is splined, not pressed, so the wheel is held on by the hub itself and the axle is not part of this like the older 4 lugs the xt6 axle fits the same as legacy and impreza axles, 25 spline you may get axles cheaper if you order them for a NEWER model subaru, awd models

the only thing different about the driveshaft is the front half, due to the length of their respective tranny. the rear half is all the same if you found a shop or the right tools to replace the u-joint itself i believe one from a certain model toyota will fit subarus. but this involves slight machining of the staked in caps

if you can find a junk yard, the rear half from any ea82 4wd driveshaft, including xt's will fit the same. both u-joints are on the rear half....

90-95 legacy

Timing Belt Check and Replacement Timing Belt Check and Adjustment The Timing Belts can be Visually inspected and Adjusted by removing the outer belt covers and the tensioner access plugs. To remove the outer belt covers, use a 10mm ¼” drive socket and remove the 3 bolts from both the left and right covers. The bolts thread into a brass fitting molded into the plastic. Be careful not to apply too much torque as it can crack the plastic. If indeed the brass fitting is spinning in the plastic, the timing cover can still be pulled away with gentle persuasion with a screwdriver. Wit the outer covers removed, you can check for the physical condition of the belt. Be aware of oil on the belts, as that may warrant an engine seal replacement. Oily belts will also be wakened. Check for cracks and frays on the belt, and that the teeth do not appear to have a definite seam where the teeth attach to the belt. Determine from the condition of the belts and the mileage at which they were last serviced to consider replacement. If the belts check out ok, they can be adjusted. On the front of the center belt cover there are 2 access plugs for the tensioner pulleys, one for each side. Remove the plugs by hand or with a small screwdriver. I find it easiest to do the adjustment from under the car. It may be necessary to remove the skidplate on 4wd models. Use a 12mm 3/8” drive socket and extension. Loosen both bolts a few turns on each tensioner. (DO NOT TAKE THEM OUT) With the bolts loose, the spring-loaded tensioner will take up any slack on the belt. It will also help to torque the cam pulley with a spanner wrench or other device. You can take a screwdriver and stick it on one of the holes on the cam sprocket, and use a hammer to gently “tap” the pulley on the left to the left, and the pulley on the right to the left also, to help take any slack out of the crankshaft drive side of the belt. Now get back under the car and tighten up the tensioner bolts, and re-install the lugs and outer covers. Inner Timing Belt Cover Removal Follow the Radiator Removal or Engine Removal Procedure You will have to remove the timing belt covers to service timing belts, engine seals, oil and water pump. Remove all the belts to the engine ancillaries. Some AC equipped models you will have to remove the compressor and bracket as a unit, as part of it comes in front of the belt covers. First off, loosen the 22mm (7/8) crank pulley. You can put the car in gear on Manual Transmission models. But for all models, you can brace a breaker bar against the DRIVER side of the car(USA), and bump the starter to break the torque loose. A prybar can also be stuck into the flexplate through the timing window to loosen or tighten the crank pulley bolt. Remove the dipstick and its tube with a 12mm wrench. Disconnect the Oil Pressure sending unit wire that comes down in front of the cover. Remove the outer belt cover as described above. Now with the crank pulley off, remove all the 10mm bolts from the inner cover. The bolts along the bottom will have 10mm nuts behind them. If you need to remove the plastic behind the timing belts, the cam sprockets and idler pulley must be removed. Timing Belt Removal and Installation Now that we have the Timing Belt Covers off, we can service or replace the timing belts. Re-install the crank pulley and bolt. Turn the bolt clockwise so that you line up the tree belt timing marks on the flywheel with the notch on the bell housing. They will be 3 lines in a row; they are separate marks than for the ignition timing (0 deg). With the belt marks on the flywheel lined up, turn the driver side cam sprocket so that the dot on the sprocket is pointing UP with the notch on the inner plastic. Now install the driver side belt (in the case of a broken belt, the passenger side belt has to be removed to install the driver side belt). Adjust the tension in the same manner described in Timing Belt Check and Adjustment. Now turn the crank bolt 360 degrees, one full rotation, so that the driver side cam sprocket makes a 180 deg rotation so it is pointing DOWN. Now turn the passenger side cam so that its dot faces UP with the notch on the inner plastic. Install the passenger side belt and adjust the tension. Next turn the crank another full 360 deg rotation so that the passenger cam is pointing down, and the DRIVER side cam is pointing UP. With the driver side cam pointing up, the 3 timing belt marks will be in line. So with the 3 marks in line, turn the crank clockwise until the 0deg BTDC mark comes up. Use this mark to install the Distributor if it has been taken out. With all the marks verified as lined up, put all the covers back together, job is complete!

another difference is ea81 flywheels are beveled on the inside edge wheras ea82 are cornered use the flywheel for the tranny you are using flywheels will fit eaither way, ea82's onto ea81's and ea81's onto ea82's if you drill out the holes

if the water pump is different, just use the pulley that goes with it when you swap

broken timing beltt is easy to fix swap in a dual range tranny car has unrealized potential check this out! www.trashwagon.com click on my sig as well...

what was i doing? bringing my car back from idaho and decided to baja somehere in iowa on the way back. oh, you mean the sheriff? i was out baja'n in a private field when the property across the stream called the pigz. wrong property. the pigs got smart and came onto our side of the stream and i gave them a run. man, i should have taken them for LAPS!! i knew better than to go on the road with it. they shouldnt have been there to begin with so i dont want to hear it!!

does it leak oil? it is possible the oil is being used up by the PCV system remove the pcv valve and clean it up really goood, or replace it. check all the hoses for blockages

check the fuses! there is a left and a right. had a dim light after aquiring a car. i realized it was the fuse AFTER getting pulled over(and arrested) when i realized i borrowed the left side's fuse to replace the ecu fuse

the forester/legacy/impreza setup is different than the good ol ea82. an xt6 would be more inbetween with the knuckle how it bolts to the strut and the axle itself the older models have a 36mm nut and the axle is pressed through the bearing rather than slip through a splined shaft. also the strut goes into the top of the knuckle with a pinch bolt as far as procedure goes i prefer to pop the ball joint vs unbolting the lower control arm

run them all off. i leave the one behind the idle pulley there as its the only place the belt is exposed from behind. break off the little tab that overlaps the oil pimp 10 minute belt change withonly a 12mm deep and 7/8 sockets. dont bother with a shield. dont car how long the belts last especially when you have a multiple sets that will last a long while havent had any failures with mine off road, snow, mud, grass, outrunning the sheriff, or even this: ..........yes if you look closely it says "ea82" on the fender the only reported belt failure is from a loose rag under the hood, got caught in the crank and busted both belts

problems with rust is when you take off the nuts it turns the studs too. then there is a chunk of aluminum on the htread that tears it up on the way out....

PIT MANEUVER!! taunt: "If you got a problem lets take it off road" (works with trucks and suv's too)

if anything at all give it a valve lash adjustment and new valve cover gaskets. keep oil in it and dont let it overheat. check the condition of the radiator and water pump. as long as you drive it everyday it will always run. dont let it sit and rot out!

yo my mom lives in coldwater.im from fort wayne IN but i moved to milwaukee wisconsin. look up tomrhere in Hillsdale

your head gasket leak my just be a valve cover gasket.. what year is your car? the engine light will be related to a component rather than any mechanical integrity, a blown head gasket will not trigger the lite http://www.economysuperstar.com/milesfox/subaru/service/ecu.htm

throttle position sensor may be wonky. unplug it and see what happens do this with the MAF too

water pump may be leaking at the weep hole. mine leaked so bad it caused a blown head gasket. (towing with leaky pump) fix the water pump first. if you may have ablown head gasket try the block sealer my gasket blew to where it bubbled in the coolant, but no coolant in the oil. works enough to drive a 1500 mile round trip. have to add coolant so often bacuase it pushed out toe overflowm and the nipple for the hose is broken off when you add coolant ad it to the radiator cap iteself, when the motor is cool during startup

look for the skinny vac line to the canister and see if it came off rom the intake side. common oversight, or easily pulled off when tinkering under the hood. look there first, and then the plastic lines from the canister along the firewall.

subaru made the ea82 body style thru 1994 but called it loyale from 90 on when the legacy came out in 90 the touring wagons i have seen were gl-10's. alleyboy in columbus has a gl-10 turbo touring wagon, FWD auto converted to 4wd dual range make a gl-10 touring wagon into an rx driveline and aero kit, 5 lug suspension and spider intake and its the ultimate ea82 setup!