MilesFox

the picture shown above is withthe plenum removed. you dont have to take off the air filter boot or anything like that with the aluminum turbo plenum taken up you will have access to the air hose, the coolant hose, and the throttle cable, and ecu temp sensor just take up the 2 hose clamps. the plenum will still be connected to the air hose on the black piece aboce the thermostat housing, you can either take off the hose or just swing the plenum out of the way

locking up when you stop? on one side? if so sounds like air in the line. whichever tire is locking up you have air on the opposite side and diagonally from the opposite tire

the outback struts will be too big around to fit on the loyale knuckle. they will fit on xt6 knuckles but with all invlolved you would have to swap to xt6 5 lugs the strut tops will fit if you slot the one hole, or swap the loyale strut cap of you have a spring compressor my gl10 wagon had xt6 5 lugs using legacy struts with ea82 strut caps

a regular subaru tire will be just fine dont use 4wd! you could go with a taller tire on the stock soob wheel, but anything bigger than 185/70 wont fit under the hood

if you have enough air in the system or the coolant is so low, wayer wont pass over the sensor. beware of a COLD reading when you know the car is warmed up. same when the heat isnt hot if the coolant ois too low my sedan leaked at the water pump and i would leave the heat on. once the heat started to get cold it was time to pull over and add another gallon of water

see what happens if you shift into lo or 4th before starting the engine

the coolant line is the skinny hose off the bottom of the thermostat housing and it goes to the top of the block. if you are referring to the hose off the black part that is an air hose and it goes under the intake plenum (part with "turbo" cast into it) you can take up the plenum by loosening the hose clamps on both sides once you take that up you can access the coolant hose that runs af=cross to the top of the turbo

the one with one terminal os for the gauge. the one with 2 wires and a green clip is for ea82 spfi ecu sensor.

going to court always sux. last time i went i ran up some 1500 miles on my blown head gasket. try some of the copper block sealer to get you by. follow expliitely the instructions on the bottle!

a lot of u-hauls hitxch selection is from valley hitches i checked into one for my sedan, it shows not available for the sedan but for the wagon. that is because the wagon is flat and the sedan curves up where the tow hooks are. the hitch bolts into place of the tow hooks when i had a fellow employee look up a subaru hitch they said it was the most expensive they had seen(here in wisconsin) suppose other uhaul marketing companies in different regions have different price or suppliers if going with u-haul get the part from them and install it yourself you will need a 3-wire converter for the pigtail because the turn bulb is separate than the brake bulb my sedan has a hitch. it came from an ea81 fwd wagon, i re-arranged the parts and bolted it between the bumper and the smuggler's box. i had to make holes behind the license plate to get a wrench on the nuts on the inside. the license plate has been re-located to between the taillights(its pimpin')

http://www.economysuperstar.com/milesfox/subaru/rx/vin.htm

swap yer carbs to spfi blocks i would port the heads

wagon suspension is best i put one on my sedan 2wd at to 4wd 5spd conversion

put the motor together as much as you can before dropping it in! all of me experiences the motor comes out or goes in withthe turbo and cross pipe installed. especially with the little bracket that mounts to the head, and the oil return line, much easier to install before dropping the motor even if the intake is not installed yet, you can put on the turbo anyway once the motor is in, slide the downpipe onto the turbo studs before drawing up the bellhousing all the way. the downpipe itself mounts to the side of the tranny, so long as its mounted to the tranny before the motor was taken out, it will align right up when the motor goes in if you never had installed amotor yet, place a jack under the tranny so the engine studs can align without the motor mounts catching the frame

to use the hitachi you will need the hitachi inbtake as well as the carb mountings are different than carter-weber

i prefer the napa gold or silver oil filter 21361 and 1361. they are the same as the WIX filter and share the same part number 51361 i believe an oil filter for a 5.0 liter ford will fit the same for a bigger filter. i have on on the toyota camper which would also fit the subaru as far as oil i get it all day from u-haul, but if i had to buy it i would get the napa brand as its the same as valvoline, i have used the synthetic and synth blend, as well as regular. good price with napa i think i generally get all my parts from napa when it comes to gaskets and seals and fliuds or what not, and auto zone or adv auto for things that arent mechanical related

i am legend:rolleyes: it was fun. too bad the original post got deleted

if you have a crane you can get away with changing the clutch by suspending the motor but not taking it out i did this once, took me 2 hours. i removed the radiator, the clutch fan, and disconnected the heater hoses, took out the pitch bar, dropped the exhaust and undud the motor mount all the wires and vacuum and fuel hoses, throttle cable i left connected, lifted the motor far enough to clear the fame and move to the front about 6 inches. you willheve enough room to remove the PP and the clutch disc, although you will have to fanagle around the input shaft since you wont have room for the clitch alignment tool you can remove the starter to tighten the pp bolts once the input is aligned you wont have access to the pilot bearing this way last clutch i did we pulled the tranny and it went rather smoothly. loosen the motor half of the pitch bar, drain the tranny oil, drop the tranny mounts. you will have to pop the ball joint to pull off the axles from the tranny with the weight of the tranny hanging down, re-tighten the pitch bar to hold the motor at that angle, until you get the tranny out and back into the car its not much more work to pull the motor, plus this will gain you acess to the valve covers and rear seal, and anything else you wish to service withthe motor out of the car

here are a sequence of ea82 teardown pics. dont mind the mini- and html files in the directory as they are part of a defunct gallery http://www.economysuperstar.com/milesfox/gallery/rxbuild/

i will have 22 thru 27 off work, email me your phone number i can call tonight within the hour, i cleaned out my PM wisconsin is an hour back now, i presume oh is the same time as IN, its 10:15 here so it must be 11:15 there

check the fuse panel for any bad fuses. there is an anti diesel solenoid that prevents fuel to the bown when the engine is shut off. if the valve does not poen the car will run off the choke try jumping a wire to the solenoid and see if it gets fuel in the venturi

when the engin e is cold take off the radiator cap and see how low the coolant is its possible you could be using coolant thru a bad intake gasket not to scare you, but a cracked head can leak coolant into the exhaust pipe but the head would be fine otherwise(compression and gasket) and could be leaking into the exhaust and burning away. this problem would usually have a little steam when warming up and would go away after warm up may want to check or replace the intake gasket to start with and might as well replace any of the small coolant hoses as well

u-haul trucks use interstate batteries

check to see if the distributor is turning. take the cap off and watch it turn. if it doesnt turn perhaps you have a broken timing belt. check the screw on the rotor if the rotor does turn check the fuse panel

you can put the doj end on and feed through the spindle end as far as it will go. then you can tap on the knucke with a rubber mallet or hammer to get it throught enough for the axle nut