MilesFox

ea81 and 85-86 turbos it will be under the fender. it connects entirely to the distributor

if the car is 2wd a broken axle will cause the same problem, as well as a stripped hub if the car is 4wd and you take off in 4wd and it goes, this would very much be the problem

if you are going as far as head gaskets you will need to take of the cam towers to do this you will have to take of the timing belt covers there is an o ring in the passage between the cam tower and the head. there is no gasket but it takes anaerobic sealer "permatex ultra grey" or "import grey rtv" scrape out the old rtv from the groove

if yours is not turbo you have a 3.9. the existing driveshaft and diff will work to use an lsd you will have to swap the 3.9 ring gear to the lsd carrier you will need the e-10 socket for the axle studs

stock ea82 roof rack works great. if you dont have one you can install one on a sedan or 3-door, take off the headliner sedans and 3doors trim the end of the rails about 1 inch on each end with a hacksaw if you make a pigtail connection for the lights tou can take it down or swap it to other soobs

typical flux core welders, dont burn through, let the welds cool. weld as if you were stitching and fill the middle i find it easiest to tack weld the assembly and take it off the car to weld it fully if the flange at the y pipe is intact you can bolt onto that. dont make the exhaust one piece from the motor. this will be fun when you try to wotk underneath.

if you cand find a listing for the coolant temp sensor at the parts counter, try looking for a nissan 200sx, pick the brown one as its the same my experience with advance auto is they had no listing for any subaru turbo, but the nissan was in stock, same part

3.9 gear. the only other dual range tranny for a turbo was the full time, which would have a vacuum diaphragm on the side for the diff lock

i would place my bets on moisture in the distributor i washed the motor on my loyale. the next day it would start, but die oand not start a block down the road. the cap was dry. i took the disty out and took it apart, and found moisture inside. i would try leaving the cap off overnite to dry out or spray some w-d inside the disty itslef. i come to this conclusion since the problem arose after washing the car. if you drove 5000 miles before hand i wouldnt think anything else went bad all of a sudden

the coolant sensor is the one on the thermostat housing with the green connector. the one withthe spade connector is for the gauge itself there is what is called the "idle air control" valve (skip knows this) on the throttle body that introduces a false vacuum leak to idle the engine up when cold. you can take this apart and clean it liberally with arb cleaner. its located on the front of the throttle body, the horizontal roind piece across the front the fuel injection system on subaru is very simple, the crank angle sensor is in the distributor, you have the engine temp sensor on the thermostat, and the IAC valve. thats pretty much it you can try reading the codes on the ecu, there is an led on the ecu itself, you will find it if you drop the panel under the steering column plug in the white connectors under the hood near the strut tower to read the codes you will find the ecu codes page on this website: http://www.economysuperstar.com/milesfox/subaru/service/service.htm

carb motor bottom end. like the one sitting in the black wagon. while its apart, port the heads a little. more low end grunt and faster spool up. feel free to take a spin in trashwagon 6 should you find your way to milwaukee, as it has this setup, stock timing and intake,exhaust. drive and compare! i got a spare set of tubo heads, one of which i started to port, you can use them with your carb motor until its put together enough to drop in the rx! dremel and snake atatchment caleb, why not mention the carb block, like you have already?

u-haul even uses a product, ina u-haul label can marked "u-haul penetrating lubricant" looks and smells just like pb blaster. i like to lube leaf springs on the trailers. they also use "super slick stuff" which has a lemony smell, its good for overhead door tracks. they also use permatex silicone spray anyway i have 3 things to use at my disposal for various applications

advance auto or auto zone should have them. take a lok in the HELP! brand aisle, you should find a package of 2 "import exhaust stud"

a quart of atf and a days worth of driving will do the trick the engine flush in the can is more or less kerosene

unscrew the shifter knob and take op the cover plate. remove the 6 screws and the metal ring to take up the innere boot. the inner boot is fixed to the 4wd lever so you will have to inside-out the boot there you will see the 4wd lever connected to the rod to the tranny. chances are this rod is on upside down, the rod should be on the bottom and the mounting tab cacing up vertically. if its the other way around then there is your problem

parting off a car the entire strut assembly is all you need. if buting new strits you will need also the spring and the strut cap both front and rears are direct bolt ins. disconnect the compressor or pull its fuse or it will run constantly stressing the alternator

you will have to make a mount for the carrier bearing on the driveshaft, as the 2wd bodies dont have the mount the gas tank will be the same for 2wd and 4wd ea82 if you search you may find my design for the driveshaft mount my current ride is a 3at fwd converted to 4wd 5spd dual range i have converted 2 5spd fwd to 5spd 4wd's. the carrier mount i made was built around an ea81 and fiton an ea82 i did 2 conversions for alleyboy, one of which i made the mount the basic dimensions are a strip of flat steel 12 inches long, with 2 holes 10 inches apart on center. this mounts to the body. there are 2 pieces of 1 inch steel 4 inches long and mounted 6 inches apart for the carrier. if you look on the carrier mount one tab is higher than the other, so one of the 4 inch pieces fits on top the 12 inch part, and the other in the bottom. the 4 inch oieces are welded to the 12 inch piece after they are bolted to the carrier itself. the holes for the body are drilled throught the holes on the mount after its mocked up to the underside with a jaxk the holes will come through where the seat cross rail meets the tranny tunnel, some big flat washers will form into the crevice holding the head of the bolt still to turque up from underneath

an ea82 flywheel will bolt onto an ea81 motor, but to use an ea81 flywheel on an ea82 you will have to drill out the holes for the ea82's larger bolts

i would vote to pul the motor. change all the gaskets and seals. remove all the timing belt covers inner and outer, but leave the piece in back around the idler pulley change the oil pump seal definately. change the water pump now, but if you want to hold out you can change it with ease withthe absence of the timing belt covers. makes future maintenence much easier

how is the rust? on a wagon check behind the plastic sides of the tailgate bedise the window(gl) if its a sedan check behind the plastic venting besde the rear windows. the one side wheel arch was rusted out on my sedan because a hole had rusted behind the plastic venting thus letting water collect inside the body

if you had a spare set of pilleys to expend you can try slotting the bolt holes and pin hole to achieve your cam advance the seam for the valve cover gaskets is the same as the plastic mark on the covers also the passenger side cam will line up tp the hard corner on the valve cover for o deg btdc

my sedan with slight seepage past the crank seal(filed down burr on crank) and blue smoke upon deceleration, i just changed it with 20w 50 in the turbo wagon i just changed with 15w 40 u-haul truck oil

immediately after the y pipe flange mount a 2in or 2 1/4 inch cherry bomb there, and run 2 1/2 inch after that to the back axle. if you curve it out the side 90 deg. before the tire you can use the stock exhaust mount from the body

i second the notion of a 1/4" drive ratchet when not using a torque wrench. you want them hand tight and about 1/4 turn. be careful as the bolt will seem ligke its tightening more but youre twisting it off! torque evenly a little bit each bolt at a time in sequence

a lot of times a bulb out is from a loose connection on the socket, wiggling the bulb will make it come back on, as in 90% of lights out on u-haul tricks is the case