MilesFox

if you removed the crank pulley and the belt cogs from the crank snout that will be the mark relative to the flywheel, the mark that represents ALL pistons are in the center of their bore. the cams will line up to the notch in the plastic, which will also be the seam for the valve cover gaskets o deg btdc will be the passenger side cam lined up with the corner ridge of the valve cover check this out: http://www.economysuperstar.com/milesfox/subaru/service/timingbelt.htm

i'll be out that way for thanksgiving. i think danny will be going to columbus. jim i can come down should i have time, i will be asking for the 23rd to the 27th off from work. have to tow subarus around to and from butler

yes! the 5 gallon bucket. milk crates work good too!

the caliper is held on by a 14mm bolt. the bottom one comes out, the top one is just a slide pin make sure the parking brake is off. you will have to turn the pistons to make them go n with either a piston tool, or channel lock pliers and the nose end of needle nose pliers or the jaw end of jaw pliers the rotpr and hub will come off together. the hib is bolted to the rotor by 4 14mm bolts the hub/rotor assembly is held onto the axle by a 36mm nut and coter pin. pay attention to the washers as they fit on a certain direction to hold torque, the flat washer is axtually convex, the convex side towards the nut torque for the nut is 145 lb/ft, or basically hand tight then 1/4 turn http://www.economysuperstar.com/milesfox/subaru/service/frontdisc.htm

whereabouts in michigan? i ised to live in fort wayne indiana but i moved to milwaukee wisconsin. i still roll through the area quite often have fun!!

you can use the axles from a fwd ej18 impreza as the length is right and they have 23 splines for n/a ea82 trannies you can also swap on the doj cup from a turbo automatic ea82 axle onto the ej as its the same diameter of the 25 spline axles but its still 23 splines(turbo 3spds only)

oil pump write up with pictures http://www.economysuperstar.com/milesfox/subaru/service/oilpump.htm

maybe its a bad intake gasket....

the speedo cable for the 5spd will be longer, but this is all you will need for the speedo. you will have to bypass the neutral and park switched by jumping the 2 fattest wores together on the car end of the tranny harness. you may get a check engine light for the neutral and park switch codes, but it wont affect the performance of the motor

use a long pipe to come in from the front, under the axle and brace against the radius rod mount so that you can push the lower control arm down if you dont have a pickle fork you can jack up the stud after you remove the nut, and tap around the lower control arm with a heavy hammer to pop it loose on the knuckle side, take the pinch bolt out. you may need to wedge the split open to pull it out, it can be rather rusty there. you can slip the stud back in the hole and thread the nut on so you can use the pipe to push down on the lower control arm to pull it loose

jack up the tranny so that the motor slides on without the motor mounts catching the frame

leave the one behind the idler pulley there, its the one to the right of the oil pump. i break off the part that overlaps the oil pump itself to allow for seal replacement without taking the cover off. this is the only place where the belts would be otherwise exposed from the back the metal piece is turbo specific as it acts as a heat shield, this part fits with the part you would leave non, and the bottom of the oil pump itself both trashwagon6 and the sedan at the columbus meet ran open belts and i believe jason's does too the only reported open belt failure thus far was from a loose rag under the hood wrapping around the crank pulley, on my car

200 bucks aint bad if you have in mind to fix it. the tranny can be shifted on the fly so no harm there probably broke due to old age click my signature and go to the service and repair page and find timing belt, water pump, and engine seal repair write-ups if you want to learn how to work on cars a subaru is perfect to start with good luck and have fun!

OIL PUMP SEALS! aeration of the oil because of the o-ring being sucked in. take the lifter back and exchange it for the oil pump seals

check the intake gasket on that side

"SUBARU SURVIVAL KIT" 1/4" drive toos: ratchet, extension, 8mm, 10mm, 12mm 3/8" drive tools: ratchet, 10mm, 12mm deep, 14mm, extension 1/2" drive tools breaker bar, 17mm, 19mm, 7/8" or 22mm 36mm, ratchet, extension wrenches: 8mm, 10mm, 12-14 combo, 17mm, 19mm phillips and flat head screwdrivers, vice grip and pliers, wire cutter Electrical: various bits of wire and connectors, bulbs and fuses, test lite or multi meter this will fix anytthing to alternators to axles for those of you with open timing belts a 12mm deep, ratchet, and 7/8 wrench is all you need! 14, 17, 19 and 36mm , 3/8" punch will fix an axle off the side of the road. use a long bar or pipe to push the lower control arm down to separate the ball joint the rest will allow you to remove a trailing arm or the diff for rear axles, or pull the motor should you have a friend around

check out these websites: TRASHWAGON.com Miles Fox's Suabru

you can get a tube of "3M windo-weld" urethane, it comes in a caulk tube you can squirt it into the spaced around the rubber insert in the metal parts of the mount. worked pretty good on my sedan. give it a good 12 hour stretch to set up before driving

a bad battery will draw too many amps and cuase the alternator to fail prematurely. get a new battery first and see if that cures your problem.

the speed sensor is there primarily for cruise control

the nut should have a cone washer and a flat washer. the cone washer centers into the hub and the flat washer holds the torque of the nut. the flat washer is very important becuse it is slightly convex, the convex side faces the nut the wheel will not come off because the caliper bracket will hold the rotor in place from moving outward. i would very well and highly suggest you find the proper subaru washers for the axle nut, or you will continue to have the same problem, or have the same problem withthe proper washer installed bakward

check the u-joints on the drivehaft. if that turns out to be the problem, any rear half of the driveshaft from auto or stick will fit the same, both u-joints are on the rear half

typical of rust i see. looks good outside and the underneath is falling apart. or you get a lot of surface rust and the framerails are SOLID just loke this loyale i got, looks worse than trashwagon but more solid than the sedan. i bought it to turn it around for profit but it drives much better than my other soobs. i think i'll keep it. my plans for it is to make a u-haul out of it

sometimes wiggling the air lines where they fit into thir connections will cue the problm if its due to loose o-rings. pb blaster claims to rejuvinate old o-rings. i would check the o-rings to start with

the front axles will interchange. all non turbo trannies have 23 splines turbo 5spds have 25 splines. for automatics, all 3spds are 23 spline, turbo or non, and the 4spd full time automatic is 25 spline(turbo and xt6) the only 25 spline non turbo tranny is the full time 5spd for the xt6 if you were to purchase new axles order them for a turbo 3spd automatic as they will have the same diameter as the 25 spline axles but will have the 23 splines. the doj cup will be interchangeable to turbo axles and xt6 axles such as to use xt6 suspensions with a dual range tranny for gear ratios, all non turbo 5spds are 3.9. 87 and up non turbo automatics are 3.9 as well, but 86 and earlier automatics are 3.7 and turbo autos are 3.7 ALL ea82 rear axles are the same and 23 spline wether it be turbo or non and xt6 as well the carb motor will work in the spfi configuration, the intake and distributor fit the same, but you will have to block off the egr ports on the cab heads and you will be stepping down from 9.5 compression to 9.0 as far as motors from ats and manuals the bolt pettern for the flywheel is the same so you can swap the flywheel to an auto's motor. but you will have to use the bolts original to the flywheel as the bolts for the flexplate of an at are shorter also the rear half of the driveshaft are interchangeable should a u-joint go bad everything else fits the same