MilesFox

it will also fit under the hood all the soobs i see either have 185/70 0r 175/70 i prefer the 185's myself

the stock subar height adjustable front and rear struts came on the 85 and 86 4wd wagons when ordering parts they should be listed for your car. even if you had a later year order for 85 and 86, as far as the parts listings will be concerned

i used molybendum disulfide (moly ep) ,you know, axle grease

interesting theory, tom. the outer spring and spring keeper were in a parts tray, the cam tower was still on the head, i dont know why anyone would try to remove a valve under the cam tower before removing it there are score marks on the inside of the cam tower housing the round part that retains the spring had a notch worn out of the outer circumfrence. the iner part where the tip of the valve stem comes through was wallowed out on one side, this must be the side that dropped a keeper now, the valve moved back and forth freely before another spring and keepers were installed. went right together now what you say about the lash adjuster is interesting. the part that holds the lash adjuster was missing and i used one from anothr adjuster that was stuck in its head off another motor would there be a difference in HLA's between years such ad 85-85 vs. 87-94? there was no excessive carbon build up. the valve seats were fine and the cracks between the valves were minimal the motor has 85,000 original miles something interesting i noticed is the bottom half of the circumfrene of the pstons were shiny suggesting water, and there was a water spot on the #1 cylinder but i would attribute this to weather and the car sitting. the head gasket looked fine and came off on one side and remained to the block in all its surface

yeah i need mirrors for the rx, maybe thay work on the 3door because of the rake of the a-pillar i do know for certain that the 3-door a pillar is more raked back than the standard wagon and sedan.

pull out the trailing arms take the diff/axle(and trailing arm if it doens t come off the axle) assemblyout of the car and there you will have room to swing the hammer. this assembly removed from the tube frame itself used a 3 lb hammer and whack, rotate, whack, rotate propane torch and pb blaster! use anti-sieze or re-assembly

ok we have this 87 carb'd gl wagon that came missing a valve spring. looks like a keeper fell out(?somehow) the cam tower was still on. this car came from someone who claimed it had a "broken timing chain and 2 bent valves" replaced the spring and keeper. the lash adjuster was found apart and put back together runs and drives and no compression on #1 cylinder take cam tower off and pull head. mock up head and cam tower and exhaust valve is slightly open on the #1 cylinder. note was taken the lash adjuster was taller than the other, because the cap was not on all the way, that was fixed and the head put back on still no compression on #1 cyl. what is the problem and how do you bend valves on subarus??? the valve seats closed when the head is by itself and no cam tower and rockers installed.

you can retrofit an ea82 turbo. you will have to make water cooling from the heater hoses and tweak the oil lines. you will need the downpipe with the ea82 turbo. the bottom of the turbo will bolt onto ea81 you will have to mix and match the right pcvs. get the inhtake boot with the turbo you could make that fit also ea82's will be more plentiful

you can swap in a map lite from a gl and put speakers in the rear door, the wiring will be there for gl accessories of any sort spfi as the same with other ea82's 87 and up are the same parts thru 94 check for rusted out rear trailing arms, as the onses i see worst are fwd, rusted apart ant the seams

you couuld fix this from inside the car. nice hefty hitch on the car. is this dual range 4wd? the shift cover will pop off and the knob unscrews. remove the screws to the rubber boot and there is your bushings.

one of the bolts for the water pump will be behind the cover. if you look on the replacement pump you will see where the timing cover threads into, that will give you an idea pf what's behind there you can get away with taking a chunk off the corner of the timing belt covetr to expose the bolt. to break the crank bolt loose use a pry bar and butt it against the driver side(u.s.) and crank the motor with the coil wire unplugged if you go through all the trouble you could take all the covers off http://www.economysuperstar.com/milesfox/subaru/service/service.htm

if you are speaking of an ea82 car, you can remove the rear half of the driveshaft until you find a replacement. both the front and rear u-joints are on the rear half of the driveshaft also, at and 5spd driveshafts are the same length for the rear half and are interchangeable if the u-joint on the rear half breaks, you can simply tie up the driveshaft (in 2wd only!!)till you replace it, or the rear diff falls out, whichever comes first

i used a motor that leaked, replaced the rank seal. a week later it leaked again, thee was a burr on the crank snout from a previous seal replacement. i had to file and sand the burr. its possible the shop may have gouged the crank i offset my seal so it would seal up slightly farther out on the crank, as there was a definate groove from the last seal. i drove the seal about 1mm short of where it was and all is fine

i agree with the steering column idea. makes easier to access the pedal assembly and the throttle cable

the older 3at thru 86 and the turbo 3 at have a 3.7 final drive, whereas the 87 and up no n turbo at has a 3.9 the 92 loyale i just traded got 325 miles out of the same tank of gas, with just under 1/8th to spare, average 60 mph i find average speed and driving habit plays a lot in fuel economy. with the price of gas i keep my speed around 62 mph average for long distance driving my best fuel economy was 473 miles ona full tank, past full to the filler neck to running out of gas. columbus ohio to the last oasis north of chicago the same car towed my rx from fort wayne indiana to milwaukee wisconsin on the same tank of gas

you can just swap in an entire ea82 however it comes, just add wiring harness and ecu

where's my day old pizza?

86 fwd gl-10 came as spfi

sounds like an axle nut or spline failure. that is why it quit going in FWD mode

YES YOU CAN! my buddy has a 93 FWD 5spd impreza, 23 splines. we discovered 23 splines when legacy axles didnt fit( too big, 25 spline) i guess the tranny mount is different but this makes an easy ej swap

if you can pop th eball joint, take out the knuckle with the axle and strut as an assembly, do this to both cars. now, put the 4wd struts on the parts cars knuckles and put the whole thing in together like it came out. pop the tie rod, the ball joint, 3 nuts and a brake line, axle pin and thats it remove the axle pin first when you take it apart. make sure the axle lines up with the pin before installing the ball joint to make sure it fits the pin fits only one way. use a 3/16" or 6mm drift punch to remove it, and also to slip through the hole before installing the pin to make sure of the alignment undoing the brake line from the caliper is easier then swapping from the body end. the caliper end will fith through the little eyelet on the strut.

interesting stuff see if you can post a question about sharing subaru parts manufacturers on the probe forums and see what you come up with

any 80-84 gl, dl, hatch, brat(except 80), wagon 2wd or 4wd or stick or auto or turbo its all the same as far as they fit anything 85 and up wont fit, except for the hatchback and brat thru 89 and 87 respectively turbo axles will be the fattest

if you find an ea82 motor that will fit, spfi or carb, your existing carb will work, or the ea82 carb will fit all the fuel lines and some of the wiring in your car you can use the carb and intake on an spfi single port ea82 motor, as spfi or mpfi non turbo have 9.5 compression. ea82 carb has 9.0, ea81 has 8.5 if you find a whole car for parts you can swap in the 5spd dual range along woth an ea82. this would be the easiest upgrades as far as it all bolts on with pretty much no fabrication other than the carrier bearing mount

if pushbuttoning doesnt work, run the spade terminal from a wire and touch it on the battery post. if you hear a click but the starter doesnt turn, check the continuity between the starter and the battery post across the battery cable itself had a problem that baffled me turned out to be the battery cable was broken inside the insulation