MilesFox

Wow, this thread lit up since i commented this morning. After reading more, let's rule out the hydrolock issue. I speculate a timing or compression issue based on your whirring noises. If it were a timing issue, only, you still have compression. Troubleshoot 1. Inspect the rotor. make sure the screw hasn't fallen out, resulting in erratic mis-timing. If the screw is present, crank the motor with the cap off, and observe the rotor turning. If not. You have a broken timing belt. If it does turn, go to step 2. Troubleshoot 2. Inspect the timing belt for correct timing. It is possible that the belt could have skipped timing by A. the tensioner is loose or has a failed bearing, B. some of the teeth stripped off a portion of the belt, leaving the belt intact, but not engaged with the crank. Observe the rotation of the rotor while cranking. See if it stops momentarily between revolutions. This would indicate stripped teeth on the belt, although there is enough to turn it. Firther inspect the timing belt by removing the outer covers. Observe the timing marks. Presuming you know the timing marks (which i will illustrate in the next paragraph), you will be able to determine if the belt is off time. You will see if the tensioner is loose. If so, realign the marks and tighten the tensioner, or replace the tensioner. If the tensioner had not failed, remove the belt and inspect for stripped teeth. The distributor will remain in time with the cam, so if you do the timing belt alignment correctly, the distributor time will be correct. Remove the rubber plug(if it is not missing) from the bellhousing under the pitch bar mount. Use a 22mm or 7/8" socket or offset box wrench to turn the crank untill you see 3 marks III, and line the middle mark to the arrow on top of the hole. Rotate the passenger side cam so the dot is facing up, in line with the notch on the timing cover, which also is in line with the valve cover seam 12 o'clock. This is the step where you install the passenger side belt. Otherwise, since the belt is intact, rotate the crank another 360 degrees until you get the III mark again. The passenger cam cam will be facing down 6 o'clock. From here, you will rotate the driver side cam to 12 o'clock. This is where you will install or adjust the timing belt. At this point you are done with the Timing Belt Procedure. I would speculate that in your case, the teeth are stripped or the tensioner failed. The catching feeling you get is the passenger side cylinders between compression strokes, and there is no compression on the driver side, so you get that whee, chug chug wee chug chug sound. The cam is off enough that a valve is open on the compression stroke, by either being off time, or not moving at all. In regard to Sea Foam, i was suggesting this to clean out oil in the intake if a hydrolock thru the pcv had occurred. Otherwise, you can apply sea-foam as a routine maintenance to clean the idle control valve and blow out carbon from the valves and pistons, ad to oil before drain, or add to fuel as a cleaner.

Maybe it sucked some up in the PCV. oil capacity should be about 4.5 qts with filter. Sp the engine is hydro locked, or just won't start? maybe the cylinders are full of oil. correct the oil level, reove the spark plugs and the engine should crank, pushing out any oil that may be in the cyliders. prepare for a mess, place some rags over the spark plug holes. maybe spray some carb cleaner in the cylinders to wash out the oil, clean the plugs or replace them, start the car, and let the oil burn off. Once it is running again, perhaps sea foam it to get any oil out of the intake runners

just register your car at subaru's website

fill the block thru the upper hose or the thermostat housing. sometimes if there is an air pocket, the radiator will geyser out the coolant as the air pocket tries to escape. from there, add coolant. Be sure that an internal HG failure is not pushing combustion gasses into the cooling system forcing the coolant out. I have resorted to filling the block from one of the heater hoses. IT might not be a bad idea to add a flushing port on the heater hose for fill/burp purposes. Subarus always have been tricky to fill completely, often times holding the rpms past idle and babysitting it for 30 minutes as you slowly add coolant.

Studs thru pulley=110mm pump. pulley bolts on =105mm pump

So if this technique can be used to separate the marker lens, what would be an appropriate heat range for the oven? the marker lens has condensation, and i am considering coloring the lens orange, or installing a strip led inside, plus it needs sealed anyway. I would consider the taillights, but i don't want to rik breaking them trying to remove them as all the plastic on my car is brittle. I appreciate the good advice from everyone. Tom's comment cracks me up. Not sure if i have a hair dryer, but i do have a 1949 magic chef oven

the forester is like this, sometimes slow to downshift, but hit the throttle just right at the right speed, it will go. I think it has to do with the AT shift pattern. Sometimes the trans wont kick down since there is enough torque to lg the higher gear. Sometimes it seems to shift right in the middle of the rpm curve where you want it to keep winding up. Manually shifting corrects this

It will be plug and play, but best source a donor car as you will need to swap the following as a set: 5mt flywheel and flywheel bolts trans xmember and longer bolts to body driveshaft, at least the front half rear diff to match 3.9 gear, unless sourcing a turbo 5mt, in which case you will need 25 spline axles up front pedal box assembly with a 4wd clutch cable. an ea82 4eat will require a section of harness that contains the tcu and the plugs to tie it into the rest of the car, best sourced from a donor car for the whole set Your existing 3at turbo axles will fit on a n/a 5mt, being 25 splines, but the added bonus of larger diameter than standard axles. The air ride can be replaced with conventional suspension. Likely, the o-rings at all the air lines need to be wiggled, greased with silicone lube, or replaced. These junctions are at the top of each strut, and on the compressor itself inside the driver side fender.

Caution, if the block had been overheated enough to melt the belt covers, the aluminum grain of the block may be compromized. what can happen is the head bolts will strip out when you apply final torque sequence. This would be an extreme case. Given your locations where ea82's are a plenty and can be had for 100 bucks, you may just consider replacing the engine if you can find one locally. Although with my example given of redoing the heads in a ea81 milkshake engine, i had an engine that i drove for a while on blown hg's, made 150 mile trips like that, until the water pump fell apart and i cooked the engine so hard it was boiling the oil. good luck

yes, you can leave the passenger belt alone. but if you need to remove the driver side belt entirely, the passenger side belt will have to come off. To get the timing marks right, just start the belt procedure from step one align the belt, and then you are done. Just make sure the passenger side cam is pointing down when you line up the flywheel mark.

mine has 262,000 mi and i will re-do the head gaskets. dropping in a random motor is asking for head gaskets in the future. People need to get off the high mileage is bad and instead recognize that lack of maintenance is bad. higer mile motors generally reflect the amount of routine service to achieve thos miles, hwereas ower mile engines are up against the wall for crucial maintenance. One could blame the failure on old water pump, corroded radiator, or low coolant before the mileage.

The tip and trick to this is omiting the timing belt covers altogether. There is nothing to gain by keeping them, but you lose all that time and labor for something that would take 5 minutes without the covers. However, you can bust out the center cover without removing the crank pulley. It may be possible to adjust a cam with the covers on, once removing the outer, you will want toe way to maneuver the tensioner up and done while turning the bolts through the access plug. The belts are more likely to break on their own than getting thrown off by debris hitting the naked belt. Being a non interference engine, one should not be afraid of belt breakage, and witht he covers off, a broken belt can be quickly repaired with a spare form the trunk. What i mean is taking a 2 hour job and turning it into a 20 minute job with no covers. EA82 timing belt is something that can be repaired off the side of the road with nothing more than a 7/8 box end wrench and a 12mm deep socket 3/8 drive Belt covers are a preference, it's up to you if you want to do all the labor to keep them.

pull the heads. you will see it has plenty of crosshatch in the cylinfder bores. There is no access to the crank and rods thru the oil pan without splitting the case. However, you can remove the pistons by removing the plugs on the block and pulling the wrist pins. You can likely repair the head gaskets and change the oil and be just fine, as i have done before. Otherwise, you are better off to replace the long block rather than rebuild it.

if it's not a fuel ground issuewiththeecu. it could be the engine tem psensor if the car fails to start when warm, but will after it cools off. Another suspect could be the ignition amplifier module on the coil bracket. this can fail intermittently, and work again once cooled off. There is no alarm reset, or alarm at all for that matter in the ecu. the blinking led is an o2 monitor, and also displays the engine codes when you plug in the test/read connectors.

I considered the oven idea. So it is 300 degrees? i was assumng lower like 125 or 150. Otherwise, i would cook them to separate them, and then i could leae them in the oven to coola down on their own before handling them if warping or breakage can be an issue. PArt f my necessirt is to cure condensation, with the opportunity to make some custom mods. Thanks for the link Rob. What you did is what i had in mind Not sure if i want to do projectors or not. I would like to ion coat (yellow) the lenses like the fog lights you see, and consider gold plating or some kind of gold coating for the reflector, and yellow bulbs with cool white led running lamp.

Anyone have experience separating the lens from the reflector? ! have in mind custom installation of led daytime lamps and possibly a halo ring, and further possibly having the reflector plated. I am assuming to cook the assembly in an oven. Has anyone worked with ea82 headlamp assemblies?

what hppens is you get 'hillbilly torque' when you take the experienced hands of steel coarse thread bolts into iron bores, and apply that to fine thread steel bolts in aluminum bores. The smaller bolts in aluminum do not need as much initial torque than coarse thread becuse the tighter thread has a mechanical advantage and achieves clamping forces with less torque applied. this has more to do with thread pitch than it does application or matallurgy

IF the warning light is working properly, you cantrust that as it is a thermistor separate from the sender itself. The duration of the light may vry, but reflect fuel economy to driving load. on level highway, it will come on early, but you can go some 30-40 miles. When in-town driving, it comes on later when fuel is sloshing around until so low, getting 10-20 mi till empty. The reserve from the light is roughly 2 gallons. Also check your wiriring where the pigtail comes in on the passenger cargo hold behind the wheel well. there is a cover plate in there and your pigtail behind it. This is typically a rusty area.

^thanx, this is what i was looking for. I had to jack my car way up to ride properly with the spring perch with what it has.

Hare is an update. First off this thread with my input is EA82, so this shhold be moved to older generation or technical or mod foruns (thanx) Here are the photos of the various lamps un shrouded, and in their assemblies. Photos taken with iPhone 4s First, i am sorry i do not have a 194 incandescent bulb as a control. Instead i have a 194 amber incandescent to compare with, as they are installed in the map lite. 194 na incandescent The right bulb will be the constant with the left bulb being the others let me know if these links work for you as i am trying to display them from an on line host. https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-bdgtRuKbhM0/UzZNiogO3hI/AAAAAAAACaA/hEBw0E1gD4k/w844-h633-no/led_0026.JPG https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/Mzn236bF93x9vihehO2fUBEjD6ztA0zr9c5dwJXH-Tw=w844-h633-no Bright white LED (bluish) https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-rV2ukrcMxNk/UzZOe446sJI/AAAAAAAACcA/kIJ0Rr_tAM8/w844-h633-no/led_0041.JPG https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-hjFvykTZgaw/UzZOW1Y74kI/AAAAAAAACbw/OZs8aXLEEb8/w844-h633-no/led_0040.JPG Warm White LED https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-BS6zomHIPIE/UzZOdxNfiQI/AAAAAAAACb4/AOwT9W3GVKM/w844-h633-no/led_0042.JPG https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-3HOd7LQ5F6o/UzZOSUVe3OI/AAAAAAAACdU/6D-yDGjIbFA/w844-h633-no/led_0039.JPG Amber LED https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-qmSlgzUGBYs/UzZOoBpHdhI/AAAAAAAACcY/tUkJJMUNtko/w844-h633-no/led_0044.JPG https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-Uvd7JOi8Awo/UzZOnXc-HnI/AAAAAAAACcQ/WujRVdUV9Vk/w844-h633-no/led_0045.JPG Red LED https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-87uS1xlY1_4/UzZOrnwAagI/AAAAAAAACcg/xiGvkJhdsrE/w844-h633-no/led_0047.JPG https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-XcuAiM24O-0/UzbEp26uhdI/AAAAAAAACcw/LPMpOKiqrEg/w844-h633-no/led_0046.JPG

Now only if there is an kyb egx2 strut for the rear. ia m fortunate to have the ground control and eibach on mine, but too-tall ea82 2wd struts in back.

All tirbo models for ea82 came with rear disc brake. A gl-10 3door is something rare that i believe had not existed. OR a 3door with a sunroof. LSD was an opton to order, but was not a gl-10 standard option the rx as a package has a full time dual range 5mt with diff lock and rear lsd. This could have been an order option for a gl. The car pictured would be a 87 model year by date and if it has a optical disty and hotwire maf. 87.5 is when we got the rx package proper with white on white, checker interior, and body kit with side skirts. this package has supposedly only 2600 units from 87-88 or 89. the at option was a 4eat like the legacy.

Since my post earlier, i scored a paor of bright white led, and soft white led 194's. I opted for auto store generic amber and red 194 pairs. I found at radio shack a strip led for 12v measuring 3 ft, 3 led's per group, you can cut them down and wire up sequentially as each bank is in parallel 12v. I had figured out that a 12 v led lamp with resistor uses a 680 ohm resistor. average led pieces range from 2.5-5.0 volts, average 3.5 v. I will have to do some ohm's law, but i can fashion led's for the rear wiper switch, etc. I installed the soft white leds in the tailgate lamp and the map lite. The dome lite has a bright white (bluish) festoon LED. The ashtray will get a amber 194 incandescent. The red and the amber generic led's are installed on the front and rear marker lamps. The soft white and bright white led's in the red marker lamp looked the same, although brighter than the 194 incandescent. you can see the led arrangement patter in the lens. The colored led's are more rich in color. The red LED has a slight purplue hue, but the blue spectrum filters out in the lens. The taillamp and brake lamp have amber 1157. I cut 4 strips of led and installed them to the bulb housing of the taillamp, and traced the interior of the lamp itself with srtip led's for the brake. Originally during prototype, the trace was the tail and the inner part was the brake, but the trace was much lighter. I oriented the elements to shine laterally across the lens rather than project rhough it, which distinguishes the elements as bright dots. I could have gone for that look, but this is an 1986 taillamp. The idea in mind and goal was to use the led's to full in the whle lamp assembly and light up the dark areas, for uniform light without a bulb profile. The amber lamp is still there for a natural feel, and the bright to dim response as we are used to instead of the blink response of led's alone. I had tinned the lead wires from the led elements and inserted them into the terminals of the opm plug rom the back side. This can be permanent with some dielectric grease, and no modification to the lamp housing or wires. The elements are secured with clear silicone.

I have puchased some LED products, and bartered with a buddy for 194 style led assemblies. I will be installing them and taking pictures compared to normal incandescent and colored incandescent bulbs. What i have: LED 194's in both bright white(bluish) and warm white (yellowish) generic autozone dual density Red 1157 LED lamps red and yellow 194 generic auto store led's 1156 amber incadescent 1 meter each of strip led, both white and red, from radio shack. I will be trting the following combinations, and taking pics once the sun goes down: Front marker lamps, 194 socket, the amber element (as i cannot find a 67 bulb for the marker itself): Blue LED, warm LED, amber 194, white 194(oem), red 194. For the rear turn signal(amber, 1156) :1156 white incandescent, 1156 amber incandescent, 1157 red LED(i would have to go purchase an amber 1157 led, 1156's unavailable rear marker lamp, 194 socket: white, red, amber incandescent, red and amber LED, blue and warm led tail lamps: 1157 incandescent, 1157 dual density led RED front turn signals: amber 1156 incandescent, white 1156 incandescent (may purhase amber led 1157) strip led's, cut down by pairs wired in parallel, to make ighting arrays to fill out the lamp housing lens in the dark areas and corners. These will supplement the bulbs in their oem sockets. I will see if the leds look better projecting thru the lens, or hidden that they give ambient light to the interior of the lamp housing. I will try red and white as that is what i have. I would like to find amber or the turn lenses. I want to trace out the top and inside of the headlamps with the white led's much like late model cars. I may consider a amber halo ring inside the headlight around the halogen bulb. I may consider an led projector bulb in the headlamp as a daytime running light I may consider strobe controller for turn and brake lamps. I mat consider actual strobes for tail and turn lamps. I wish not to alter the stock appearance of the lamp housings for 1986 model year

I am 6'2' and a subaru is very comfortable for me, as my legs are disproportionately long for my stature as i have the stature of a 6' person with 2 more inches in my femur. anyway, for my height, i sit bolt upright and the seat about 3 or 4 clicks from all the way back. I can't drive with a gangster lean if i have to lean forward off the seat to reach the shifter or stereo. I am so used to sitting in subarus that even larger cars seem like they don't have good seating posture.