MilesFox

bad distributor(crank angle sensor)

try block sealer

85 wagon motor will work. use the carb and intake from the 85 with its motor. connect anything theat will match such as electrical connections use the flywheel from the ea81, drill out the holes for an ea82 flywheel bolts if the 83 was FWD 5sd and the 85 was fwd 5spd the clutches would fot the same, use the ea82 flywheel in any other case you will scribe the timing belt marks to the ea81 flywheel. the bolts are m10 x 1.0 thread the motor will fit just right. i recommend removint the inner and outer timing belt covers for future service remove the disty before installation to clear the master cylinder the hill holder will have to be re-located(bend the lines)

pinch it with needle nose plier. take out the bedal box or the steering column if you want for more room

maybe a crossed plug wire or the timing belt is off

the ea81 will fit just drill your flywheel holes out for the ea82 bolts and tour current flywheel the hill holdere will have to be repocated, bent out of the way pretty much install the motor first, then the distributor so you can celar the master cylinder the ea81 pitch bar bracket will swap onto ea82 ea81/ea82 intakes are interchangeable. go with the ea82's

really you could leave it like it is and torque the other ones down. you can drive the car witn no problems for the immediate while, or at least till you get another head, motor, or the bolt out, what have you dont let this keep your car on jackstands go drive it! i have used motors with twisted off intake bolts and they do just fine!

sounds like a gl-10. if it has 4 headlights its 84 or earlier. 85 would be mpfi non turbo, 86 would be spfi, 87 and up will be most likely turbo

use a brass wire wheel with a drill to clean up the carbon razor blade is fine to scrape away the graphite, the dimples are ok so long as the surface is flat, the dimples are more of a shadow from the gasket than an uneven surface razor blade(for gasket leftovers) and carb cleaner(for nasty grease) has always done me right

try parallel parking a dolly it can be done! then do it un loaded:)

sorry i cant help you with the solenoud part, but if you want to go with a WEBER you will need a hitachi manifold

dont make wide turns, and especially dont back up with a loaded dolly! towed unlocked it does good, just dont try to exercise subaru turning radius with the rig. pretend you are driving something ill built with no turning raduis

the reason you are pulling a code 11 with the key on is the engine is not running. you will want to start and run the engine. the reason you are getting the code 11 is the distributor is not turning! try the code next time after starting the motor and see if anything else comes up

its just more legos, from a different kit. who says you cant mix lego and mega bloks?

well since the car has sat you are hearing the hydraulic valve lifters. its normal for the tick to occur after the car has sat, or even after a top end rebuild run the car for a while as they have gone dry from sitting, eventually the noise should clear up its nothing to worry about, sometimes a perfectly running subaru will make the noise on and off, its nothing major as a mechanical issue, more of an annoyance run new oil and a filter and drive the car, dont be afraid to get some rpms should the noise not clear up try repplacing the oil pump seal as this would be the other common cause for the noise

they mount the same using the same driveshaft and crossmember, clutch and all. like legos man, you knew that. LEGOS. is it the same size, does it fit? just remember the lego man!

i have done it. you will need to make a mount for the carrier bearing, and drill out holes for the diff hanger in back other than that its all bolt on aside from the tranny, you will need teh diff, driveshaft, entire rear suspension assembly(the tube frame has the diff mount, the trailing arms have the axle stubs) and of course, the flywheel and clutch, and the bolts for the flywheel as they are longer than the AT flexplate to crank and, dont forget the pedal assembly i drive min eall the time 2wd at to 4wd 5spd the shifter and console plates fit the same there is no cutting or fabrication other than the carrier bearing mounts itself, and drilling holes in the back

1st gear doesnt like to downshift till after you stop. no need for a 1st gear downshift while moving with the car's gearing. shifting at 2000 rpms is ok but is this vs. shifting at a higher or lower rpm. dont drive below 1500 rpms, shift between 25 and 45 depending on acceleration (preferrably 3000-3500 rom, 4000-4500 for on-ramp acceleration also what year and model is your car?

external dimensions are the same, aside from the diaphragm sticking out of the full time for that matter the full time is the same as pushbutton with the diaphragm (overall dimensions)

i have seen this on an 87 carb cluster. i think it trips at a set mileage to throw the check engine light, to remind you of routine maintenance schedule as far as grease in the speedo head, check the seal where the cable meets the tranny, as when the seal goes bad it will draw diff oil up through the cable. without checking the seal its likely this will occur again

well they will probably issue the mt series trailer or the av series trailer, but the rv covered trailer has a trailer brake and this mini van almost wasnt allowed to go with it with his class 2 hitch till the manager inspected the gvwr as far as my example they wont let a tow dolly go with an older soob, or even a newer soob

the bearings should last the life of the car, or at least the life of the seals. new bearings should have new seals

you will be good for the immediate while and most likely thru winter. really you should only worry about it after the boot rips as far as remanufactured goes with lifetime warranty, order one for the right, replace it. when the left side goes out honor the warranty for the right axle your warranty will state right axle, and the parts counter isnt going to acknowledge the right and left axles fit the same so in theory one axle with a lifetime warrany will replace any other axles on any other soobs thereafter!

make all clutch adjustments before the hill holdr adjustment. majke sure the hill holder is not too tight to begin with anyway. i tighten the nut by hand till it takes the slop out of the fork. then a turn or 2 to set my pedal where its comfortable you want your pedal to engage right off the floor, not way up at the dash

yeah i should have got the gallon can insteadof the quart