MilesFox

the reason there is a hitch for a wagon and not a sedan is the floor on the bottom is flat on a wagon, the hitch bolts on in place of the tow hooks if you look on a sedan the passenger side is like the wagons, but the driver side tow hook bolts onto the part where the floor curves up toward the bumper. if you could fabricate a mounting plate there you can retrofit a wagon hitch older ea81 hitched bolt to the bumper and thru the floor. i retrofitted one onto my sedan. had to make holes but its rock solid. use some thick metal for the bolts to go through on the top side the bumper part i had to cut holes to get a wrench on the nut side of the bolts

dont forget the hub bolts directly to the brake rotor, so heat will be different depening on the amount the brakes are used (obvious logic)

i remember working on jims car, we replaced the temp sensor for the ecu so we know thats good. the ecu kept pulling maf codes intermittently, as wiggling wires caused inconsistent troubleshooting jim, didnt you clean the aic, or have me clean it? i remember cleaning one there unless it was the one on the sedan. maybe when the motor(in the dl) was still in the blue wagon i cant remember.

clutch cable is too tight!!!!

i would only suggest it if its a 5spd. ats are too weak, but are geared low enough i work at uhaul and no, they wont issue a trailer for an older soob, but yes, i tow my rx in excess of 300 miles thru chicago with my 2wd at to 4wd 5spd conversion sedan funny thing about u-haul is they wont issue a trailer to ford explorer for liability reasons. and this comes from ford. wut whats stupid about it is they WILL issue one for a mercury mountaineer. just tell them you have a legacy

make sure the weep hole isnt dripping. seen re-man do it right out of the box. jb weld after 2 gaskets

i have seen use of the ac cause a soob to stallat slow speed driving, turning think of all that load as far as fuel economy is concerned automatics suck as this loyale i sold turns the same rpm at 45 mph as my 5spd does at 60 p mph

m8 88 sedan 2wd at to 4wd 5spd can go from columbus ohio to chicago illinois, or fort wayne indiana to milwaukee, wisconsin filled to the brim till it clicks and squeeze another dollar in there, i got 457 miles when i ran out of gas. keep in mind the car was loaded down with most of the stuff i own and on the top as well. meant to run out as i had a 5 gallon can full in the back the low wfuel warning lite was good for almost 100 miles

how about the system needs charged? there are 2 pressure switches that need to see pressure before the compressor will kick on, yoiu can unplug the pressure switches and jump the terminals see if this works. if it comes on, then have the system recharged

you cant just cram 65 miles per hour into 2ng gear ithout doing something in between i drive by when i need to slow down, i let off the gas. that easy. this would be the real "downshifting" we would like to refer to because its the "negative tourque" that creeps you down, coasting with the engine engaged to the tranny so to speak. why would we need to shift into neautral. neutral is for when youre not moving:) if you need to slow down use the brake. if you are still within ghe gear's rpm you can go again with the gas, since you dont have to use the clutch so much as you slow down more than the gears, rpm, of course, downshift. my rer drum shoes are about to fall apart so im easy on the wheel cylinder, i downshift whilt riding on the brakes. not cramming the brakes all at once, not dragging them, but just cousting withy clutch out and making "jabs" at the brake although not all hard and such. brake to stop from slowing what i will do is let off the gas and use the brake, shif tinto 2nd as i roll up to a stop, neutral waitong for green slowing down form an exit ramp i will just coast as i merge off, in gear to start losing speed. as the speed limin reduces around the ramp i will downshif to 4th and touch the brake here and there. coming to a stop 2nd gear in or out of the clutch as necessary, brake to stop simple dynamics, "let off the gas"

same bellhousing an 2wd at will fit in place of a 4wd at 2wd 5spd will fit in place of 4wd 4spd ats will fit in 5spds and vice versa, so long as the right mounts go along with ea82 and ea81 use the same bellhousing clutch will be specific to the tranny all fwd 5spd use the same clutch, all 4spd dual range use same clutch, all ea82 5spd 4wd wether it be turbo or non or dual range or single or full time or xt6 use the same clutch turbo axles are 23 splines all others are 23 if there is anything else you need to know just ask

you shouldnt show or pull a gun unless you intend to use it. dont whip one out on someone to scare them. situations like that may get you capped yourself.

been there done that, twisted off the end of the breaker bar. make sure they are not super tight, make them snug by hand and maybe up to 1/4 turn.

there is no o2 sensor because the y pipe has been replaced with one from a non-cali hitachi setup

whatever you find the part is the same for any ea82 subaru, probably ea81 as well

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175/70 or 185/70 either of these are what i see stock on soobs all the time, generally 175's on fwd and 185 on 4wd. i would go with the 185 for a lot of highway driving

time to buy a subaru dealership, for those who have money

http://www.economysuperstar.com/milesfox/subaru/service/service.htm well its my newest version of the website. warpthree.com/milesfox disappeared for some reason. this is laid out much better. but i have to fix the dead links, i dont think all my site uploaded. some of the links are looking for files on my computer. anyway here are all the articles which i submitted to usrm. if anyone has articles i can put them here! you can email them to me or just post them on this thread. i can use dreamweaver to make your article all nice and webpage like just as these are milesfox@yahoo.com oh by the way, this is tim hansens server, the guy making the movie, be sure to check his page too http://www.economysuperstar.com

the pics in the article are of a turbo motor. all ea82 the same. the xt6 motor is slightly different but the procedure is the same for it as well

i dumped some in my gas. and since im so cheap im going to fill the can back up with water and return it to wal mart.

and i quote my email response to this guy "forget that chevy van, are you nuts!? subarus are so easy. try lubricating the throttle cable to alleviate your problem. take up the spare tire its staring you in the face!"

yes, you line up the dot with the valve cover gasket seam. this example is used in the timing belt article here: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=2648 have fun with the missing belt covers it really will make any work much easier!

maybe the motor was missing the timing belt cover around the crank pulley. unless the cover was loosened and the belts wedged in between the space pryed apart between before the crank pulley. whenever i service a motor or do my own, i take the covers off completely. that way if i break a belt off the side of the road, or need to change a sela later, it saves me all that work

how do you know its not a broken timing belt?