MilesFox

soak it with lots of PB. you can wege a screwdriver or chisel in the split to splay it open a little to help release the ball joint form the knuckle

how about the injector resistor? my buddy's car had an ambient misfire was running mostly on 3 cyls, changed injector no change, coil pack no change, entire motor no change. thn he got the idea to change the injector relay and behold 4 cylinders.

the line on the filter itself will go on the biggest fitting, in the middle. if you trace this line it goes to the injectors. since the fuel supply is BEFORE the REGULATOR, the line coming off the fuel pressure regulator will be the return line next to the fuel filter on the firewall the line coming from the framerail is the fuel tank vent line, and it goes on the smallest of the lines. if you were to trace that line it goes to the vapor canister have fun!

have him go and bleed the brakes anyway. suppose there is not enough brake fluid. just tell him you want to flush oput th ebrake system, with new fluid. brake fluid is hygoroscopic, which means that it will absorb moisture over time. moisture in the brake lines can boil into steam in extreme conditions such as mountain driving or racing where the brakes become very hot, although this is not your case. another point is moisture in the lines will promote corrosion and rust out the brake lines fom inside out flushing the brake system willbleed out any air and promote the life of the brake lines so what you are saying is he dismounted the caliper and just hung it out the way, without disconnecting the line? the only thing i can think of air getting into the system is the brake fluid was low enough, that after the brake pads wore down so much, that it may have drained out the master cylinder enough to suck in an air bubble. and when the mechanic intalls new pads the pistons being turned/pushed in will push the brake fluid back into the master cylinder, but the bubble would have worked its way hro the line 2 main points i stress is ask the mechanic if he turned the pistons in(most likely did if the parking brake is working good) and ask him if he will bleed the brakes for you, pretty much change the fluid. print this thread out and take it to him so he understands what your concerns are

maybe he didnt bleed the system properly. the parking brake working is a good sign so lets rule out the piston idea sorry i didnt think of this forst, but since the calipers have been replaced the brake lines have been disconnected. subarus are tricky to bleed even for experienced mechanics, even for myself tell the mechanic its a dual diagonal brake system, and see if he will re-bleed the system starting from the wheel farthest from the master cylinder. he should be familiar with this practice also its best to use a foot long lencth of clear hose and a jar to watch for any air. just be sure to let him know that subarus are tricky to bleed, its not to say hes not a good mechanic, but to say thats just how these cars are and can be rather particular for someone who doesnt see a lot of subarus

the brakes should work as soon as you install them. my bet is the guy pushed the pistons in with a c-clamp and broke the calipers

have any pics. looks like quite a list of soobs you got there for a newbie!

did he turn the pistons on the calipers to recess them, to allow room for the new pads? the parking brake is on the front calipers and the pistons must be turned because of this design suppose that is why the old ones have been replaced because the last mechanic didnt do the same thing also if the brakes are now with new rotors, the film of protective oil on the rotors needs to be cleaned off with brake parts cleaner. the rotors should have a non directional finish, they should have been sanded to scuff them up if they are turned, or new if they didnt come sanded. also new pads its a good idea to burnish them in, make a run a nd a hard quick stop to burn the surface off the pad to expose fresh material

something like this can be sanded/blasted off and painted over. check how the rust behind the metal and treat it as well cutting and welding should only be necessary if its rusted through the car, such as wheelarches are gone or the bottoms of the fenders are missing anywhere that holds moisture can draw rust, make sure all the drain holes are clear and check behind the bottoms of the front fenders, unbolt them anc clean out the dirt/leaves that accumulate there. wash up inside the fender lips and anywhere dirt may settle and hang out

sounds liek hes referring to the proportioning valve. explain to him that the subaru uses the same platform for either drum or disc, and disc was offered on turbo models and that was the only diference in brake design. the rest of the brake system is the same design throughout also explain to him that its a dual diagonal braking system. that one front wheel and the opposite back wheel are on the same brake circuit. this way of a front brake line blows out on one side, you will still have the other front brake working, and one rear brake to keep the car in line. this is contrary to older domestic(hot rod) vehicles where both front and both rear are on the same circuit, so if a front brake line goes you have NO front brake to impress him further, and maybe also to make the proportioning valve thing make more sense to him, is the hill holder and how it works the hill holder holds brake pressure to the back wheels when the clutch and brake are pressed at the same time, and the brake pedal is released so long as the clutch is still presses, its cable actuated, show him the hill holder i'll bet he cant comprehend it!(old hot rod builder, not a "foreign jobber"

ea82 uses the same gas tank for both 2wd and 4wd. this need not apply for an 86 sedan. contrary, ea81 2wd bodies have the holes for the diff hanger but ea82 does not here are the dimensions for the carrier mount, if you search you may find it but these dimensions are STANDARD FOR BOTH EA81 AND EA82 ALIKE flat strip of steel from the hardware store, about 1/8" thick and roughly 2 1/2 to 3 inches wide. another strip of flat steel, 1/4" thick and 1 to 1 1/2 inches wide. cut out 2 lengths 4 inches long. drill a hole about the same size as the carrier bearing mount bolts within the last inch of each piece, on one end each. you can be selective on what steel you use but here is the hard dimensions: your piece of steel will be 12 inches long. mark for 2 holes 10 inches apart on center to the 12 inch piece. the holes will be drilled out for the size bolts you use, about 1/2" hole the other small pieces of steel bolt them to the carrier bearing with bolts similar in diameter as the carrier bearing mounting bolts, the bolts will have to be long enough to go thru with a nut. install the bolts so the heads are on top and the nut on the bottom you will notice that one side of the carrier bearing mount is lower than the other. bolt your strips so that one is on top the low side and below the high side. line up the carrier to the 12 inch piece so it is centered, and that the end of the small steel is even with the far edge of the 12 inch piece, so that they overlap the topside of the 12 inch piece completely. weld the pieces together now that your carrier assembly is fabricated(with the front half of the driveshaft and carrier bearing bolted to) install the yoke end of the driveshaft into the tranny, and use a jack to butt the assembly flat against the bottom of the car and center it. the length of the driveshaft will place it properly. the short pieces welded to the 12 inch piece will be on the topside of the 12 inch piece and within the tranny tunnel, and the assembly will be perfectly flat against the bottom of the car remove the center console and lift up the carpet around the parking brake lever and pull it back what it can move. it is not necessary to completely remove the carpet, this is at your discretion. you may cut the middle of the carpet that lies under the console if you wish now, use the pre-drilled holes to drill thru the hole exactly where they are, as the driveshaft locates the assembly. the holes will be exactly between the corner of the rail that the front of the seat bolts to, and the tranny tunnel. install the bolt with a large 1 1/2 to 1 3/4 flat washer through the holes so they come through the assembly and install the nut. when the nut is tightened the washer will conform to its corner and the nut can be tightened down from underneath and the washer will hold the head still! i suggest using lockwashers on the bolts. this design works for both ea82 and ea81 with 5spd 4x4 trannies, and since both vehicles have the same wheelbase the carrier will be the common point for location, even with automatics with their respective driveshaft, the carrier is always in the same place i have built 2 of these mounts, the first one was on an ea81. it was fabricated on the spot with stuff laying around, built around the car itself. that car was parted out and the SAME MOUNT was installed on an ea82 and it fit the same. the next mount was built for an ea82 to generic dimensions, which are the ones listed above and it also fits exactly the same. the generic dimensions are sure and simple and work for both bodies ask 86subaru or thealleyboy as thes 2 examples i have built are in their cars

everything will bolt on, you have to change out the tube frame to accomodate the diff mount, have to drill holes for the hanger and use long bolts, and fabricate a mount for the carrier since it wint be there on a fwd body

i have run them absent. no problems. just check the hoses back there periodically for cracking due to heat. may want to fashion something to shiield the axle boot on the under/frontside of the downpipe

finding the source of any water entry. if your rx is a 3door i would suspect the wing mounting as my rx is all rusted behind the license plate and underneath below the cargo box as a result of a hole rusted under the middle of the wing. my sedan was rusted on the driver rear wheel arch because a hole had rusted behind the trim on the side of the back window, causing water entry thus rusting the wheel arch

when i did xt seats into an ea82 i used gl10 tracks as they had the height adjust. i had to bent the teeth out for the forward adjust latches and narrow the cable across a little bit by re-benting it 1/4 inch where the end was the one side bolted right up but the other side i had to drill a hole and add a bolt with a spacer, no welding involved let me suggest those who want to do xt seats find some gl-10 seats at least for the driver side. if a 3door seat is found for the passenger side then you kan keep the flip forward feature of the passenger seat

when my diff fell out on the highway and i had to removi it off the side of the road, the doj was seized to the diff so i separated the doj end from the diff to remove the diff i go to the outer ends of the axles to do the same and they are CV JOINTS? anyway i put another 200 miles on the car with the axles dagling, mildly suspended horizontally across a sling of coat hanger, untill i chopped them off with an angle grinder. what a waste of axlesa but i had to do it(seized stubs and pins) anyway these axles were from an 87 gl wagon, the carbureted 4wd 5spd version

funny thing, i was going to say a pontiac firebird wing, as it fits perfectly on the back of a sedan, i wonder if its the same part between firebird and fiero? as far as an rx, a 3door for that matter as long as it clears the wiper arm you cold get away with it. so long as there is enough of the gate after the rear window to mount it

youmay be better off finding a junkyard unit as far as price goes

first things first make sure the vacuum lines are intact. if the heater blows only out the dash vent then there is your problem right there. if the heater does check out, listen for a click and a PSHHH when you press the button. under the hood in the corner behind the driver side strut there are 2 little black solenoids with green fittings, and 2 lines from it to the side of the tranny. this is what actuates the 4wd. have a buddy hit the button and listen for a click. if there is no click present apply 12 volts to the solenoid and listen for a click. if it clicks suspect the wiring to it. if it doesnt click suspect the solenoid to be shot(not likely) also if the solenoid is working check thew side of the tranny, the diaphragm has a rod out the back of it make sure this is moving. if the solenoids are clicking and the diaphragm is not actuating then the vac line to it is bad or there is a hole in the diaphragm this rod on the side of the tranny is the 4wd. if nothing works you can actuate the 4wd by manually manupulating this rod. the way it works with the vac is vacuum is applied to put it in 4wd, and vacuum is applied from the other side to disengage 4wd if you can manipulate this lever by hand then you should see the 4wd lite. if no lite insoect the plugs on the tranny, or the bulb i the dash hope this is enough information to narrow it down hollar back! oh, i forgot, the motor has to be running for the 4wd to work!

maybe your hesitation is throttle position sensor related, as its common and also present in my buddy's rx motor in the gl-10 TRASHWAGON6. the tps is pretty much a fariable resistor with an idle switch and a WOT switch on eaither end of it

suppose the rat was the gremlin in the pacer. tim hansen has a pacer its super clean and yes, yellow shag

if all the heater selectors only blow out of the dash vents inspect the vacuum line from the cansister on the firewall to the intake and make sure it hasnt come loose. this vacuum supplies both the heater controls and the 4wd mechanism. check all the plastic lines along the firewall too. its even possible a mouse has eaten through a line as it has been reported once before with the same problem

the green wire will be hot all the time for memory the suabr has a common ground speaker, so on the aftermarket radio you will hook up the +left front, the+left rear, and only one of the grounds from the radio will be used, so the left sude front and back share the same ground, the right front and back share the same ground so you will be using the front left- and the front right-, the other rear - wires will not be used

looks ej related to me, with the pich bar mount and the new style electrical fittings

what i like to do is thread them in by hand with a screwdriver, then about 1/8 to 1.4 turn with a 1/4" drive socket another trick i prefer to use is a cordless drill with a clutch, one that clicks at a certain torqie. with my cordless, 18v harbor freight model, the full torque of the drill is just perfect for the oil pan bolts also when snugged by nad, it would be a good idea to re-snug them after about 10,000 miles or so a lot of the leaky oil pans i see just a hand re-tightening fixes right up, being as the gasket will harden and shrink over time