MilesFox

make it look like my car. satin black on the roof and trunk, white on the back, wheel arches down. big 7 on the hood! although i should have made the white on the hood come down to the edge like stripes but now the car wears a bra

as far as a legacy goes swing the compressor out of the way as well. but on the legacy you can unbolt the ompressor itself from the bracket, if you chose

lexan should be break in proof imagine a thief's frustration!

take the battery out to have room. instead of unbolting the compressir from the bracket, unbolt the bracket and compressor form the motor as an assembly remove the alternator and swing it out the way. under the alternator there is a 12mm bolt thru to the motor. on the back of the bracket there is a 14mm bolt thru to the intake under the bracket, on the far left, loosen the bolt but it doesnt have to come out. remove the belt pulley by removbing bot the 12mm bolt and the long hex part. thread the hex part back in on its stud once you pull the pulley off. behind the pulley is a long 14mm hex bolt, remove it. after all this the whole unit will swing out of the way to pull the motor

i have experienced this phanotom beep, i was like "Whoa, never heard that before" i believe its a speed warning as part of the trip computer on the radio console. i never did figure out all the functions of the trip computer as my display never worked. but anything its trip computer related

check the tightness of the axle nuts in back. they should be around 145 lb/ft, or snug then 1/4 turn the washers play an important role. there are a cone washer, then a flat washer, then the nut the flat washer is actually slightly curved, the curved side faces out so it clamps down on the outer side of the cone washer maybe this is why you cant replicate the sound on jackstands as the car would have to see the weight of the vehicle to make this noise also if the torque checks out suspect the wheel bearings if the bearing is bad and the wheel sits off camber because of that the rotor will hit against the caliper bracket, same applies for the front wheels

you know what i was reading another post in reference to this and suppose the clutch cable needs tightened(wont shift unless the engine is off) i say this because we picked up a wagon in iowa out of a field, would not shift unless the motor was off. so i looked and saw the clutch cable was loose. i tightene it up and the car towed another car around the farm and then we drove it another 2000 miles on the hot rod power tour. all like the next day. might i say check out the clutch cqable fittings against the fork befpre hauling it into the shop

my car does the same thing, the master switch will roll down the back windows but not up. the rears are fine with the rear switches. i suspect my master switch needs cleaned replaced as far as the way the system works, if any of the switches are unplugged from their harness none of the windows will work

for such a rear hand brake to work you would have to slam the brake whele you pull your lever and let off the brake, the lever holding it to the rear. basically you will have to introduce some sort of brake pressure first then the lever will hold it off tho the rear, so any maneuvers would have to train yourself to do

anaerobic means it will cure without the presence of air. just like bacteria in the ocean vents are anaerobic as they dont need oxygen. just like when you work out too hard you get the "burn" that is anaerobic metabolism going on more so than the oxygen in the body can keep up to

i ususlly loosen or tighten the bolts while the belt is still installed. if tis a broken belt i will install it to loosen the bolts(ea82's)

how many miles are on it. i foind with used cars the ones with higer mileage have seen their work done while ones with lower mileage will be needing work may as well have the work done as the car is now needing the work for the first time. do the clutch first as it will be the most expensive or most important, then brakes, then clutch. or do brakes first then clutch anyway how do you know if you trade it in if the car you get will be needing all that work too? stick to the subaru

thas what i would think. there is a legacy in a junkyard here i will see if i can get it should you not find one, i will be coming to the iowa meet i could bring it and put it in for you.

seeing ther top of the trim is missing they may have just pulled the window far enough back to reach in. i have done this to break into my own cars, so if they were smart enough to realize this that is how they got in. were ALL the doors unlocked? better that than a broken window sux they took your stuff, whoever did it either had to know about the equip, that or some visitors were around though they would "go shopping" car stereo punks probably riding stolen bicycles. at least they didnt get the stereo itself, if i remember right that was mp3? dam columbus is going insane. forst johns car gets backed into and now your radio. DAMMIT

i would vote for a broken passenger timing belt. suppose if there were no belt covers you could fix it in 20 min with 3 tools! if i were you i would try to fix it myself as a last ditch effort

talk about rust, you cant find anything better than this in the midwest. runs and drives but otherwise junk believe it or not cars this rusty are legally registered and driving around these parts. and thay junk cars over a speck of surface rust out there.. HA!

if the bolt is stubborn use steady even torque, it should break free. you dont wanbt to torque the bolt faster than it can flex/unscrew as this will twist it off. just be slow and paitent, even pressure on the torque, dont pull too hard or too fast, take your time nice and steady.

if you have a lot of oil on the engine crossmember its probably most likely the valve cover gaskets as well for 600 bucks the job better include complete fron end service, timing belts, cam and crank seals, valve cover seals, water pump and oil pump seals. since its the same amount of work to do one or all you could take a crack at doing the work yourself to save money, all the parts can be had within 100 bucks

the sensor with one terminal is for the gauge itself. the sensor with the green clip is for the ecu the temp switch for the fan is located on the radiator itself, just above the drain valve

i myself am re-doing my website, can i make a link to yours?

the harness that is unplugged is the grey harness for the engine intake. with the ej22 swap, the intake harness was different so the 1.8 intake had to stay, and also the 1.8 cam sensors and stuff were swapped onto the 2.2 block the car has its original alternator and intake. i'll tell my buddy to unplug the alternator and see if that does anything also if you have something to refer to which fuse is what that would go a long way

i just blew it all out. this car had 10 year old gas with fresh gas mixed in. if anything let it sit overnite with fuel injector cleaner or the like. drive it around to slosh it around

i fits running like a misfire maybe the injector resistor is going out. anyway my buddy had a legacy with a misfire it idla nd while driving. it didnt buck or kick but you can tell one cyl wast firing all the time. no amount of changing the wire, changing the injector, or changing the whole motor for thet matter made a difference. then he changed the resistor and all was good this resistor is located on the firewall and is encased in aluminum, long rectangular housing on a triangular mounting plate. maybe you an heve this part tested or compare it to resistance values in some sort of suabru manual

that piece on top of the thermostat housing with the 4 screws is the idle air control valve. it is temp sensitive in the way that is introduced a false vavuum leak when colt do keep idle rpms up anywy what you are looking for is behind the intake between the turbo. here is a picture from the back side of the intake, just under where the turbo would sit. you may have to take up the intake boot to get a good look. a long extension and a deep 17mm socket will get to it. be careful not to lose the copper washer. you have to remove the clip around the connector to get it off

if it starts hard on a warm start i would suspect the engine temperature sensor, not the one for the gauge but the one for the ecu.