MilesFox

http://photobucket.com/albums/v469/tonysmudbog/3rd%20Annual%20Subaru%20Alliance%20Meet/ the sedan with the 7 on the hood, the light blue wagon, and the wagon with the orange stripe are all running open belts. never a failure yet!

the sensor at the thermostat housing with a single blade terminal is fo rthe gauge itself. if you replaced this one, the one sending the code is the one located behind the turbo and is for the ecu if you indeed replaced the wrong one, the one behind the turbo has a connector like the injectors have, and the sensor itself is brownish in color. try cleaning the contacts first and see if this clears the code if you have problems locating this part at the parts store, a nissan 24o sx sensor is the exact same thing. they will have ablue or brown one listed, ask for the brown one i asked for one for a subaru turbo, not avaialble, subaru rx, not available, gl-10 not available. ok lets try nissan. what kind? pick one. how about 240 sx? ok. in stock, brown or blue? let me see them. ok the brown one. same part as the subaru works just fine!

i run coverless on my belts, all the covers are gone except the one behind under the water pump as this is the only place the belts are exposed from the back side. never had a problem with debris although one time i left a loose rag under the hood and it snapped the belts when it wrapped around the crank pulley. but then again it only took me 10 minutes to replace both belts go ahead and remove whetever other plastic you wish. your future maintenance will appreciate it:)

there are 2 89 turbos that i have seen that do not have an egr valve, or the bosses for one as they appear to have been eliminated for that year and maybe on up from the factory

the engine is grounded properly. the motor ran for a whole day, and didnt start the next day and was displaying these problems. check my last post i edited it with more simptoms added also, the temp gauge is always pegged at hot with the key off. when the key is on, it settles where it should be. when the key is off again, it immediately shoots up to hot. this is with or without the harness plugged in key off, when the wiring for the fuel pump/sendingunit is unplugged, the gas gauge goes to empty. when its plugged in it reads correct fuel level, with the key off on ONE occasin today, with the engine harness unplugged, and the key off, the fattest wire to the fuel pump unit carried some 3 volts. when the key was turned on, it went to 0 volts. when the harness was plugged back in on the motor, the fuel pump had 0 volts with key on or off all the while, the car does not run since this problem occurred

update: accessories(heter fan, wipers, head lights) work with the key off when the harness is plugged in. fuel pump does not come on. the accessories work like normal with the key on and turn off with thekey when the harness is unplugged when the harness is un plugged the fuel pump rund continuouslyy regardless of key position even when off last nigt he disconnected the neg batt cable for the night. the next morning he connected it, and no ambient lights on the dash. turned the key to RUN, and back to off, and the dash lights are on when the harness is unplugged the check engine light stays on continuously with the key off. when key is in run pos airbag light comes on like normal. with harness plugged in in the check engine light is off with key off. but oil pressure light and charge indicator are on with the key off when the key is turned to the run pos, the airbag and the check engine light do not come on(with engine harness plugged in) the only accessory that works normall regardless of the harness is the stereo. ironically, the stereo harness is the only thing that has been touched electrically(cd player install) when the key is off, and the engine harness is plugged in, it sounds like the main ign relay is turning on. remember this information is taken over the phone by my buddy who has no 2nd hand to help

also, would anyone know which fuse is fir what. my buddy does not have the fuse panel cover for the fuses. the fuses in the tables are listed from top left to right across, then the next row, then the next row. knowing what fuse is what would really help

aside from all the loyale dismay, the 2.2 legacy motor is probably the single most reliable motor subaru has ever built

yeah i took this information over the phone, 300 miles away i have no opportunity to look aththe car. he doenst have ready nternet access and ajunk chiltons book for reference. he is electrically adept but this is going to take him to school on trouble shooting. anyway the voltage numbers look as if something in the ign is cross shorted and things that should be live arent and vice versa. this happened the next day after completing the swap, and its a first year impreza, the motor bottom end is from a 91 legacy, but the alternator and intake is original to the impreza the one variable is things are different with the engine harness unplugged or plugged in, its weird the way it was described to me. nothing of the wiring harness has been changed its all iintact in its original stock form

there you are jim, i was wondering where you were, havent seen you on the board, well, i guess that explains it. check out the trashwagon website in my signature

if you swap to a carb to eliminate the turbo you will want a whole carb motor or maybe an spfi block, since the turbo motor has the lowest compression it will sure be a dog if you use the existing turbo shortblock is your reason for swapping the car for fuel economy? if you wanted to ditch the turbo put in an spfi block, use the turbo heads and intake, and convert it to mpfi non turbo but if you found a carb motor you could just swap it in, but it wont run right unless you do some custom electricals for the carb itself, such as the anti dieseling solenoid and such, or just put on a weber:brow: anyway, if you would consider a carb motor by putting together an accumulation of parts, use an spfi long block because that will eliminate egr passages you would otherwise eliminate, and gain compression too

everyone will tell you a tune up. but a combination of exhaust and ignition will get you going to start with

my buddy put an ej22 in place of an ej 18 in his 93 impreza fwd 5spd. he used the 1.8 intake as the electrical connections were different on the body as the ones on the 2.2 intake these electrical problems arose after the swap, after the motor ran, so i am thinking the problem is unrelated to the swap, since the car harness is seeing its original intake, no extra loads or different resistances the way the car acts is with one of the plugs disconnected from the motor, the car acts like its on when its off and vice versa, such as headlights coming on in the acc with the plug connected, and normal without it connected. i think there is a short from ign to accessory or something weird like that, voltage draw of fthe battery with the key off the impreza has different shaped connectors for the motor but i dont know if the wires are different than say a legacy. but here is a list of the wire with the voltages key on and key off. he doesnt have very good schematic and has no reference for what fuse is what, here is also a list of the fuses and their volts key on or off http://www.economysuperstar.com/trashwagon/imprezavolts.htm

yeah will do, i have lots of work yet to do with the website and moving to anotehr server. with an updated version

to ask again what size tires are you rinning, and what make, are all 4 the same size or make? as tires or rear end ratio are the only things i can think of causing a bind a bind will be caused from different rotation speed of the front axle vs the rear axle, as one wheel in front will be locked with one wheel in back, either the same side or diagonally, as the front and rear diffs are open but the front axle and rear axle are locked in by a gear, so 2 tires are always engaged witheachotehr across the front-to-rear

where exactly is this water leak with the jb weld located?

does the hazard work, and does the door chime work? the reason i ask is one day, on my 88 spfi, i was installing a factory radio and had to restore the harness(chopped up from stolen aftermarket) anyway i shorted out the green wire to the stereo(hot all the time) and blew the ecs fuse. i replaced the fuse and no start. i was like what the hell, and was about to tear out the dashboard. i tested for volts at the green wire and no volts, when it should be hot all the time with the key off. so i got smart and jumped + from one of my switches straight from the battery to the green wire and then it would start, and i have been driving this way when i connected the jumper my chime came on and the hazard came on(with the button) and this way i knew the ecu was gettin power

there is no relay for the fan, it grounds thru the thermo switch on the radiator. you can test the circuit by jumping the connector on the thermoswitch(i.e shorting the connection) to see if the fan comes on. the way the system is designed is when the thermo switch reaches a certain temp it closes on the connecotor compling ground to the circuit. the circuit on the + side is live in the acc and run position you can make a toggle switch to a relay and use the relay to make the ground contact. if you do this, and the thermoswithc works properly and is hooked up along with the relay, you can turn the fan on when you want, and if you forget to turn it on, the thermoswitch will take care of it

we parted off a 4spd automatic legacy at j.c's junkyard in columbus, oh. if i were out that way i may be able to get it for rock bottom cheap, say 50-100 bucks, as we took everything off the car i thought it was gone, but i found it in back buried behind a stack of crushed cars, its still there although i hae no immediate plans to be out that way, if i do find my way out there i will see about grabbing it for you and as always, should you get into any heavy duty work involving subarus, i could come out that way and do work for half of shop rate, say you get the tranny alone and need someone to put it in for you. anyway my email is milesfox@yahoo.com just hollar if you need some work

also consistent tire diameter should be all the way around the car. if there is any difference between the front and rear tires you will get your bind your car should have 185/70 tures for the 4wd dual range tanny. it may have 175/70 tires but thats ok. whats important is all the tires around the car are the same size if you have a hard time shifting out of 4wd try reversing a car length or 2 anyway do what northwet says and check the gear ratio on the rear diff. it should say 3.9 and that is what the car would have come with from the facotory, if its any different than someone changed it out, wether you know that or not

i can save the article and put it up on my website, with your permission. i am looking for contributions in general

i will have to oppose, i would myself pull the motor to do the head gasket. fo one if you are doing one gasket do both. for 2, it saves me from leaning over both sides of the car for extended periods for 3 you have plenty of room to work and clean everythin up 4, you can replae all the other seals such as the REAR MAIN, service the clutch if it has one and needs service, and all the front end work is easier to do such as engine seals and oil pump seals and timing belts 5 you dont have all the rockers falling out trying to put the cam towers back on! basically what im saying is having the motor out gives you more versatility and options to do to the motor, unless you ONLY ,JUST, want to replace ONE head gasket (and the litte o-ring on the cam tower)

timing for fuel injected would be 20 deg btdc. the 84 would be 8 deg +/- 2 deg

well i think maybe you just got a bad impression on the loyale or the ea82 for the reason this car doesnt run right. anyway, should i make it out to the iowa meet, i would like to meet up with you, if you can take me to the car dealer i would just like to look at it, and see for my own eyes this car. maybe the dealer will pay me to fix it, as i have stopped in at another place to ask of a soob was for sale and ened up selling him a tranny and puttin it in for him suppose if i found the problem i could whisper it over to you and you can grab it for a steal, winter is still some months away suppose you find another ea82 based subaru in the future you will consider it, if it werent the same situatin as this loyale. good luck and have fun!

do you feel vibration? is it in your seat or in the steering wheel? a whwwl bearing noise will go away when you turn one way or another. a loose axle nut noise will go away when you hit the brakes(generally) a bad cv joint will pop and click while turning, and sometimes jerk the wheel a bad doj(double 0ffset joint-inner axle joint at tranny) will vibrate through the steering wheel most times, and you may feel it in the seat. generally when the doj makes noise it will start on acceleration and go away on decel, or vice versa. how do the axle boots look?