MilesFox

hey its a good idea. i run spfi block on my carb plus the heads on the spfi are absent of the egr ports on the side of the exhaust port, makes for easy elimination of all that tubing junk withou making block off plates if you had the harness you can wire the car for spfi while you drive on the carb, then when its all done swap the intake and instant SPFI!

make sure you have the same size tires all the way around, and proper air pressure to make sure your at works properly check the front gear oil, it has a separate dip stick under the spare tire on top of the tranny. a lot of people dont know this is there and it goes dry resulting in diff failutes or worn governor shaft, broken speedos, etc also those who do find it put ATF in ther instead of gear lube like the rear diff would take so previous owners should be more dreaded than torque bind

to remove the cam pulley on the driver side. behind the pulley there is a retainer that holds the cam in place and houses the seal. check to see if the bolts are stripped out i saw a motor theat mysteriously jumped a notch on the disty, i found this cam retainer's bolts were stripped out, causing the cam to walk and jumping the disty, breaking off a tooth on the gear of the cam. i had to replace the cam tower and cam drom a spare motor just something to look for, my biggest pet peeve is working on a soob after some jack stick hillbilly screwed it up and have to restore it back to subaru order.

its not in "false neutral " is it. i cnanged an axle and the car wouldnt go, i was about thetear into the clutch until i realized i was parked on an embankement, looked underneath and it bum ped the fwd lever between hi and lo

it wouldnt be pingign would it, inder load? does the sound sound anything like a diesel motor or marbles rattling in a can?

sometimes i find it easier to take the starter out to have more rom to get to the bottom bellhousing bolt on the drivers side. in extreme cases i'll pull the distributor the power steering pump i just disconnect the lines, the low pressure rubber line i'll hang a pop can on it to save it from making a mess i tie my chain to the power steering pump bracket, and the pitch bar mount on back, using the pitch bar's thru bolt to take out the motor or put it back in, jack the dranny by the front diff untul th emotor raises up and aboce the crossmember, so its mount studs come out of theit holes there are a dowel on each side of the motor, you can tap a wide flat screwdriver down in between the bellhousing to work these loose good luck and have fun! might i suggest removing the plastic timing belt covers, run the belts open so if you ever have to change a belt, water pump, oil pump, or seal, it saves you from all that work. just leave the plastic part behind the idler pulley as that is the only place the belt is exposed from behind if you question the reliability of open belts there is plenty of testemonial about them doing good, just ask somebody

on the contrary a 200 dollar car can see many 10's of thousands of miles should you know what ot expect from it and take care of anything before it comes a problem, for little $

how about considering route us2 it take you north across montana, its the flattest run from say idaho area, then jog wherever from about half way across ND

yeah i have been trying to get her out of her ford pile for some time, after the first one had abad radiator and the next one having a bad water pump, might as well get out of it while it still runs. hey the bumper to the last ford is behind the carbola if u still need it:rolleyes:

the one on the right looks like an ea82 piston, if the other one is originally ea81. the one on the right looks like ea82's that i know of

probably their analysis is based on cost or frequency of maintenance bear in mind an older subaru is an enthusiasts car, are best suited for the kind of people who like to work on and maintan their own vehicle things like changing timing belts every 60 thousand miles and torn axle bots will give it a bad rating. things like that can be big$$$ if taking it into a shop to do, but super cheap to do yourself!!! aside from the attention to maintenance the subaru is a very well built car and will last for hundreds of thousands of miles. dont let the consumer reports scare you off, this is where its at on this here message board.

also keep the same size tires all the way around so everything tuns at the same rate if you are in something slippery and peelong out, dont engage 4wd while peeling out, such as the front wheels spinning and the rears not, or you will get a nasty grind when engaging. rather let the wheels come to a stop if this is the case before engaging however, in normal driving or when you are not obviously peeliong out you can engage 4wd as you are driving normally is this car u have a 5spd or an automatic. pushbutton or lever?

yes you can change the turbo motor out and put in a carbureted motor. example, i boutght an 87 gl-10 turbo with the motor in the trunk, torn apart. i put in a carbureted motor just the same to use carb motor the motor mount and bellhousing fit the same. if the new motor has a flywheel or clutch you can install the torque converter with the parts from the old motor the distributor will connect to the coil, black wire to + and yellow wire to - leave the other wires connected to the coil as they are, nothing has to be removed from the old system the coil will work with the carb mechanical distributor, and the tachometer on the dash will work the same when using the carb motor you must change fuel pump, as the one in the car is too much pressure and will leak past the carb, you can install a fuel pump with less pressure, and connect it to the ignition circuit, and ground it to the body you may connect the lloe pressure fuel pump under the hood near the filter, and it will dwaw throug the old pump still on the car since there is no turbo you can re-use your exhaust pipes or use one that comes with a carbureted motor(y-pipe)

anything of 85-87 ea82 with carb will work. just hook 'em to the coil

was this some grandma car, having only 25,000 miles and short trips to church and the grocery store? tellus a little more about the car, what tranny it has and what were the circumstanced of it having such lo miles and being for sale, the people you got it from or why they sold it

its not gonna explode. it took 7000 miles for the diff in my car to fall out after the pinion seal went bad, after the u joint broke some 3000 miles earlier. when it did let go it proke off its bolt mount from the vibration, dragging the ground. i took it out and took the axles off at the doj cups, since the pins were seized and i was 50 miles from home coming back 300 miles, tossed it in the trunk, and drove another 200 miles before i chopped the other end of the axles off with an angle grinder because for some reason they were cv ends instead of doj ends......you'll be fine!

wheels straigth when engaging/disengaging 4wd. only use 4wd on surfces with 10% wheel slippage, such as sand, gravel, ice, snow, mud, HEAVY rain you can engage the 4wd at any speed

the one in the sig or the avatar? the avatar is a .gif i did shrink it down unlessit remained the same file size. i'll try to fix that

did they know the rear is lsd and did they use lsd fluid/additive?

the cat is integral to the y pipe, relly to replace it you should find a whole y pipe. some yards cant sell them though because of the cat. but if you are resourceful enough you should be able to find one if nothing else have the heat shield removed or welded up. if you remove it you can have a plate made over the top to protect the axle boot

what it is! yeah i have been trying to get her out of her ford tauris and other tauris derivitaves, the next ones have the same problems as the last ones GET A SUBARU

ok the other day i was playing with this car: i got it running after it sat for 10 years with a bad turbo, drove it 30 miles, it sat for another year. i had to replace teh fuel pump again, this time with one froma turbo ea82. the damper on the end leaked so i rippedit off with a pair of pliers and connected to whats inside. anyway i got this car to run again for the 2nd time, since last year it smokes like a bizzle, choked me out all night. anyway i have an ea81 turbo and a broken downpipe suitable for modification. this car does not have the water cool retrofit so i will have to pipe into the heater hoses. also i have a spare heater core i would like to make an auxiliary turbo cooler out of. should it be before or after the turbo? anyway this is the first step with this car. im a long way from any motor or tranny swaps as of yet needing to accumulate a pedal box and a crossmember, and of course, a tranny i got a spare ea81 4wd axle to play with i need to find a legacy or similar axle to try to find the key to unlock the elusive ea81 5 lug!

how about the axles, are thay any different than regular 4wd ea81?

dam john, you need to get out of the city. or at least the cars. man that sux, all this going on over there in c-bus. hope its not disgruntled neighbors trying to oust your stuff. at least they dont hand out parking tickets for parking in the street over there. park in the yard im sure the neighbors will love that! anyway sorry about all the bas string of luck hopefully a brak comes for you. holllar hollar

your leak may be an intake gasket, generally that will leak into the intake ports. another place to check is the little coolant hose between the thermostat housing and the block. there is also another hose on the back of the throttle body if your ride is spfi. also check the heater hose clamps you can inspect the timing belts by removing the oputer cover on each side, and run through the timing belt alignment procedure. its possible the belt may have shed a tooth, causing it to jump another thing its possible for the disty to jump if the cam retainer bots are stripped out, causing the cam to walk and jump a tooth.