MilesFox

when and where was the timing belts last serviced?

the one spark is the coil turning on and off, withthe key. its not getting signal from the disty. one of my cars did this, when i turned the key i had no spark but it sparked once when i turned it opff or quit cranking. i ran a hotwire to the coil from the battery and it would start for some reason. it sparked fine as long as it was turning, but nmot when turning the key. a push start would work every time try jumping from the battery to the coil with alligator clips. this will turn the car on even with no key. see if she starts. if she does start take theleads off and see if she still rund note: if you get the car to run like this it will continue to run with the key off until you disconnect the jumper

depending on how cooperative the yard man is you can do like i did i hauled a junk soob to the yard, to junk the body but i was keeping everything else. we stripped the interior to the bone first. i towed the car to the yard with my towbar, took it back and jacked it up, took out the strut/knuckle/hub assy, and the rear end assembly then i dropped the crossmember and tranny mount from under the vehicle i had the yard man pick the body up off the car and haul it away. he then came back and used the tard truck to lift themotr/tranny/crossmember assembly and i backed the truck up underneath, broke down the remaining parts and loaded them mind you i had everything pre loosened before the yard, and the yard man was cool and the yard not very busy, i made short work of it within 2 hours tops but if you can get the yard man out in the fork lift then i would just have it done like i did if you have a buddy to help you can pull the motor by hand. jack the tranny up so the motor mounts come above the fram its easier to lift a moto by hand if you take everything off the top first, to make it light as possible. a short block can be wrestled out by 2 people easily. i myself wrestled a motor out by myself, taking it down what i could and prying it out with a 2xr. off to the side, and loading it into a sedan, boy was that fun

you are better off with the block sealer stuff than the bars leaks. you dont want to clog your new radiator! napa offers a product, anyway the block seal product requires that you flush out all antifreeze and use the product with clean water. drive around for 15 min or so to let it circulate through, then drain all the water out of the cooling system even the block it recommends you let the syestem dry 12 hours or so, leave teh radiator cap off and the hoses disconnected. ther should be drain plugs on the head s as well

and if you do find something with a rod knock or whatever, you still cant go wrong if you have spare motors or other parts laying around, so long as teh price is right. iu have bought a turbo wagon with the motor torn apart in the back and was driving it a week later with a mix and mathc carb motor i threw together, hence TRASHWAGON 6

i just found a 92 loyalke for 50 bucks with a broken timing bely. i already had a belt, bought 7 dollars worth of cam seals. runs good, has cold ac, good brakes, axles, tranny, 123,ooo miles, it drives better than my sedan

how high were you jackstands, and was the motor/tranny unit tilted 45 deg or more? i did it once this way and i had all kinds of hell clearing the spare tire well, had to remove the swaybar(ea81) and jack the car up all crazy just to get the rigght angle on my motor. if i wanted to pull the motor and tranny as a unit again i would find it easier to drop the whole crossmember and suspension assembly

both the nut and the stud will me m10 X 1.25 thats 10mm in diameter ansd 1.25 thread per mm you can find the studs in the HELP aisle at adv or auto zone. the nut will be the same as any ohter 14mm bolt on the car, you may find them elsewhere or at the junkyard be aware that when looking for bolts at the hardware store the 1.25 is a hard to find thread. also some bolts of this size will have larger heads but that is ok dont ley yhe man there try to sell you sayin 1.0 or 1.5 fits, as it will thread on about 4-4 turns then be tight, you dont want this and make sure you specify 1.25 threads

yeah tighten up the cable a small bit. i picked up this wagon in iowa supposely a bad clutch but the cable was loose. it wouldnt go into gear rinning, so i tightened it up. them put 2000 miles on it within a week, including the Hot Rod Power Tour

this place you jumped it is where i discovered to bypass the park and neutral switches, in a car that was converted from 4at to 5spd dual range.

take off the cover plate. look up and remove thee 2 screws that hold the speaker bracket. twist and turn and fanagle the unit till you can pull it thru!

2nd fuel filter exists on ea81 models but not on ea82, to clarify things

i have a secret. fwd imprezas with 5spd are 23 spline. the example i know of is a 93 fwd 5spd ej18. this was discovered when legacy parts were unstalled up front, and the axle was too big for the stub also a long time ago i remember the leftover clutch from this same car got mixid in with ea82 fwd 5spd, which is also the same. think of it as an ea82 fwd 5spd with an ej bellhousing

yes if you do that and leave the pp bolts loose enought he clutch disc will slide around it will center itself as the motor goes on, the tighten the bolts thru the starter hole. i learned this tricl off the bard several versions ago another thing i found to work especially with gen 1 subarus is to use a 3/8 ratchet extension, its near a perfect fit in the pilpt hole, and wrap electrical tape around it to fit in the clutch dsc hole, this doesnt work bad at all i did it twice in a row fixing soobs for hire

may6be the distributor itself could be bad? i put my car together and got no fuel or spark, put on a different disty and blam she runs still 10000 miles later

i sencond the stripped teeth notion. i run open belts, no covers that is. my car quit. i get under the hood and see both belts are still there. turn the key and no start. perplexes me for a monment. then i jump the solenoid from under the hood so i can watch the belts. crank pully spins but drivers belt just sat there. stripped teeth on the belt around the crank sproket check to see if the rotor turns this is a more reliable method than feeling thru access plugs. those plugs are for adjustment of the tensioner, by design and the fact that they are there

with all the bad sentiment maybe this guy would just rather stay away from the whole mess. i dont know anything about it but maybe something came up where he couldnt follow thru for some reason out of his control, and now everyone jumps his case i dont know anything about this, other than what its like to be hated on. i dont blame the guy if thats the case. my 2 cents

when you install the disty you will want t onstall it at the o mark. to guess the timing without a light the disty sshould be 3/4 turned to the right within the range of its adj. slot. a lot of times you can see a shiny spot where thehead of the bolt was at before when the flywheel mark is showing o deg, the passenger cam pulley will have the dot lined up with the top ridge of the flat part of the valve cover, just below the word SUBARU. the driver side dot will be rougly 4:30 o clock

probably a blown head gasket instead of a cracked head. if soobs are rare around your parts i say get it. i juyst got a loyale for 50 bucks with abad timing belt. cost me 7 bucks to fix it. i can sell it for 600 easy if i came across a RUST FREE soob in any shape i would be all over it like white on rice on a paper plate in a snowstorm on the hood of a subaru rx

you must use the green connector to accurately time the distributor. yes 20 deg btdc. 86 spfi the test connectors are under the dash. 87 and later models the connetors are under the hood turbo models are under the dash xt models the connectors are under the rear deck you will want to leave the connectors unplugged any other time and during normal driving

it will only be loud when you rev it. it will idle quietly. if thats the case keep the tailpipe the same diameter as the 'bomb. go with the 2 inch and the long one

get the cherry bomb! i assume you are putting it in place of the stock muffler if you were going with all new y-back exhaust, i would say put the 'bomb at the y flange and 2 inch back if going in the stock location get a 2 or 2 1/4 diameter, and put a 2 1/2 pipe for a tail pipe, it will sound super mean

ok since you have a backfire i will say the spark plug wires are out of order. #1 cylinder is the front on the thermostat side. 3 behind it, 2 is the front on the batteryside, 4 behind it #1 on the cap is the farthest back terminal to the right of the screw/clip. firing order is 1-3-2-4, counterclockwise i will bet you a dollar this is your problem. good luck

maybe you have the 85-86 ecu, this ecu runs with a mechanical disty that has 2 wires to the coil, and a harness that goes to the separate knock control unit. the disty you have and describe looks like the optical type, for 87 and up do you have the mass air flow sensor> is it a flapper5 or a hotwire? flapper for 85-86 and hotwire for 87+ between 85-86 and 87 up the intakes will be the same alkthough the plugs may be shaped differently. look on the bottom of theheads, if they are gen one and are original the motor will be 85-86. gen one has ea82 stamped on the bottom gen 2 heads will have ea82 with a line around it, 87 and 88 models gen 3 heads are 89 and up, ea82 has a box around it hope this helps

you are getting the crank angle code because you pulled the code when the car is not running. is your clicking at regular intervals? if the green plugs are connected this will cycle the fuel pump, the clicking you hear should be the fuel pump relay or is this click when you turn the key. have you tried jumping the starter solenoid? maybe your problem is a bad ignition switch, a common problem especially with automatics but if your problem arises from working on the car, double check and make surte you didnt leave something disconnected or knocked loose check to see if the coil wire is connected. also check to see if the starter solenoid is connected toes the car turn over but not fire or not turn over?