MilesFox

ok then if you have a hold button it must be the 4speed full time. there is a fat harness and a big black round plug connecting the tranny harness. the wire you wioll be looking for is the fattest 2 wires in this harness, you can test for voltage there to the starter circuit

10 w 40 or 15 w 40 oil, about 4.5 to 5 quarts. add the oil and filter. trart the car for a minute or so and re-check the oil once it circulates thru do you suppose the spark plug wires are mixed up? does the car backfire or kick back when trying to start it?

the last time i did a tranny i fremoved the pitch bar to take out hte tranny. then i installed it tilted farthest back and tightened it to install the tranny. once the tranny was bolted to the motor i loosened the pitch bar bolt and bolted up the tranny crossmember, then tightened the pitch bar last

the green connectors simulate the act of plugging the vac line to e machanical disty. this way when you set the initial timing it doesnt advance4 and move around on you, but stays still. the green connectors also cycle the fuel puym and its relay to check if its working while the car is not running timing for all 87 and later is 20 deg. carbs are 8 deg. 85-86 turbo is 25 deg

this part goes inside the distributor

i wonder if your problem lies elsewhere. could the fuel pump fuse be out. i say this over starting a car that had no fuses, the pump wpuld kick on when the key was turned, but without the fuse it wasnt reading the signal from the distrubitor to keep pumping start the car and for the minute that its running feel the fuel pump and verify its pumping, you will feel it vibrate. tghe fuel pump is located in front of the passenger rear tire under the car above a triangular mounting plate. be careful the mounting bolts may twist off, have the cable ties handy! if you have some help feel the pump when the key is turning and feel for it to stop. if it does stop, you can run a toggle to the pump from somewhere + on the fuse panel or wire it into the + terminal of the coil. this will keep it going until you find the problem, if its invilving the fuel pump circuit

the ej22 has one belt. you line the pulleys to matks on the belt itself. there is a hydraulic tensioner that must be squeezed down in a vise and a pin inserted until its installed. as far as the ej 20 i wouldnt know if its single cam or dual cam, but the ej22 is single cams. i have no experience with dual cam. maybe you will want to post in the new gen forum

maybe the temp sensor for the ecu is shot. this is what lets the car know when its at operating temp and meters the injector. for examole, i had this turbo car that would run fine when cold, but when it warmed up it ran like crap and if it stalled it would have to sit for a while before it would start first step you should inspect and clean the terminal for the temp sensor(its not the one for the gauge, the gauge sensor has one wire and a flat terminal)) the ecu temp sensor is located on the thermostat housing, it has a green plug and 2 wires. clean the contacts to it and se if that makes a difference. if not find one at the junk yard. usually the ones that are bad are from cars that have been overheated to the point it cooks them. a new one will set you bck some 80 bucks, so might as well grab a handful of them from a junkyard as the can be pocket items

the wiring will be different for the 4wd lite. you may be able to splice the d/r wiring into the right location for the 4wd lite, the lo lite will not be present, the lo switch is on the lever itself if you wish to install an indicator lite. you should be able to hook up the reverse lite but the plug ends may be different. have a schematic handy the one in the haynes manual will do yes you can go from 2wd into 4wd on the fly, you wont need the clutch for 2wd to 4 hi and back to 2wd if you are off the gas. but you will need to clutch to go into lo range. the same flywheel, clutch, tranny mount, and driveshaft will fit the same. since your car is non turbo the axles will fit the same as well also, the loyale being non turbo should have a 3.9 diff, may want to check to be sure, and if it does have 3.9 then it will also be compatible with the dual range

yeah but if mud gets behind trim rings at least it doesnt defeat their purpose.

let us know how things go, if nothing works we can try some other measurs involving hotwiring and toggle switches, so see if the part or the wiring is bad

look for the harness thet plugs all the rest of the wires. if its under the carpet just peel the carpet back and tug the wire, the plug is not too far in there the 2 fattest wires you can jump to bypass theneutral switch as if it were a 5spd conversion. and you are correct, the other wire is black and yellow this is for 3spd at's. 4spd at's you will have to find your wire at the tranny harness

the xt seats will sit lower in the lowest position but you can still raise it! i sit with the lowest position but i may raise it up and down on long trips if my butt goes numb but raised up you should still sit as high as you were int eh gl 10 seat one thing i dont like about my xt seat is that it doesnt sit upright all the way for me, im tall but i dont like to have to lean forward for the shifter and radio, if it went one more notch forward i would be happy. but i have4 lumbar to make for it but the xt seats will let yoiu ride with the gangster lean so if you prefer all i can say is give it a shot and adjust your seat as usual and you will find a comfortable position

sounds like it will work. keep it at stock boost levels, the compression will get you off the line and the turbo willhelp it out. maybe you can have some custom cams ground or fins stock ea82 turbo cams. as far as the cams go you shouldn have any problems, just what i mean by blowing past the valves is the m/s cam has more overlap which is good for scavenging, and the turbos have lest overlap because boost does the act of scavenging so to speak as far as moving air thru the engine where are you running your coolant into the intake at? may i suggest the heater hose or bypass pipe as you will want volume of water flowing to keep things cool

did the timing belt break on you or did you ge the car with a bad belt? was the distributor removed at all during the repair. sippose the distributor pigtail is not connected?

what was the problem you were having before? describe the 30 min warm up vs cold as far as driving it goes.do you mean 30 min for the temp to reach operating temp? is there a thermostat present?

these cars do ok towing i give credit to their gearing.... i have been pulling tow duty with my 88 gl sedan spfi fwd 3at to 5spd 4wd d/r conversion. in fact i just picked up a loyale today, i dont have room fo it so im leaving ot on the dolly till i get it running, so i;ll be towing whil running my local errands... the car doesnt notice an empty dolly i towed my rx 3oo miles on the interstate from fort wayne, in to milwaukee wisconsin. until i got to fort wayne to begin with i towed the dolly from milwaukee to springfield ill to indianapolis to fort wayne. rx=2700 lbs + 400 lb dolly + all my stuff + parts to 3 motors, probably a good 3500 lbs behind me with a bolt on hitch from an ea81 towing is fun i wouldnt doubt towing again some 3 or 4 hundred miles, i can do 5th gear and 55-56 on the hiway, and get 300 miles out of the same tank of gas

suppose ifg i did this before augist could you pick it up from the iowa meet?

i mean mpfi non turbo and mpfi turbo ecu is the same. 85-86 and 87 later are different though, between years and not aspiration (mechanical vs optical ignition) also between ea81 turbos the ecu should be campatible with ea82 mpfi turbo or non for 85-86. oneof my projects calls for an mofi non turbo from an 87 xt with an 85 turbo intake in an 83 turbo wagon with 9.5 compression non turbo block and heads, normally aspirated

get a cherry bomb, thruish, glasspack, the tubular muffler you may be referring to as a "hot dog" you will like it!

get a breaker bar and butt it agains the driver side of the fender. take off the cooil wire. bump the starter and that will towque it loose. driver side i mean left hand drive us models. if you are right hand drive, it would be the passenger side

85-90 is appropriate for 4 swason climate. the weigh would be more for your temperature range. what to look fo is "gl-5 or equivalent" as it comes in various weights

you could be dwawing coolant in from the intake gasket. since there is a coolant passage there, this couls allow coolant to be sucked in to one cylinder bank while still showing strong compression

oh dont forget that im in milwaukee wisconsin instead of butler anymore, some 300 miles closer to you guys!

take out the pitch bar or loosen the bolt and let the assembly pitch back. you can shove a block of wood between the motor and the top of the raduator bracket between the p/s reseroir to keep the motor from falling forward once its out. i also find it easier to leave the shifter connected to the tranny when pulling it or installing it, just take out the bolt between the shift lever itself and its actuator have fun