MilesFox

A car that old with such low mieage will have many miles left. But an old car with low miles equals sitting which can have its own problems. In regard to sitting, change the coolant right away, and inspect the brake calipers and grease the boots and slides; flush the brake fluid with new. ctch up on its 100,000 mi service, change the diff oils. 1992 is a rock solid car. although the engine harness and grille share with 92-94, the engine shares with 90-95 and thru 98 with the correct exhaust pipe. The front suspension shares with 90-99 and 93-04 impreza. the rear suspension will work if you swap top hats.

the engine temp sensor is located on the back of the intake, on the water crossover tube, just behind the turbo. take off the '4wd turbo' plenum to get to it. it's a 17mm nut and has a brown connector shaped like the fuel injector plug.

The mileage for that year is pretty low. It will last for many miles with routine maintenance. Do the timing belt if it hasn't been done, but it is a non-interference engine, so if the belt goes, there is no damage to the engine. If you are mechanically apt, then you will fine the engine is remarkable easy to take out. The layout was from a lloyd based platform under license back in the olden times

Describe the intake ports. MPFI has a dual intake port, and SPFI/carb, has single ports. An mpfi has a runner style intake. the SPFI is a throttle body. A carburetor is a carburetor. Any combination of your 2 engines will bolt up, depending on your skill and labor. An 89 GL would be SPFI unless it was turbo. a dual port mpfi head would not work with a spfi/carb intake. What is your reason for swapping engines?

use your original distrobutor and intake onto the new motor. The ecu, intake, and distributor won't know the difference if your parts are original to each other. What year is your car? I could imagine it to be 85-87 MPFI

you can get to it. the diaphragm is mounted to a bracket that has 3 bolts or so bolting it to the trans case. the other end is a clevis pin with a cotter pin holding it to the actiuator on the back of the trans. I believe moving the cable forward is 4wd and backward is FWD it is unlikely the diaphragm is failed, unless the metal part is rusted through or the whole thing is soaked in oil for a long time. check your vacuum source. IF all of your heat selectors only blow out of the dash vents, there is your problem. check for the small hose going from the vacuum canister to the intake.

I have had good luck with parts from the BOSAL catalog such as at NAPA. Bosal is mainly an exhaust part supplier. these are metal gaskets. oem subaru gaskets are metal with a graphite face that allows for differing expansion rates between the intake and the heads.

the button on the shifter is a double pole-double throw. the solenoids should be one on and one off, alternately withthe button. If there is a disfunction of the button, or one of the solenoids, you can simply reverse the vacuum lines to get the 4wd diaphragm to engage or disengage each time if the solenoid or switch is stuck in one position. This works presuming the diaphragm is working. If this does not work, suspect the diaphragm itself. You should be able to manually manipulate the cable on the diaphragm. If it seem s stuck, try rolling the car forward or backward a little, wheels straight, or jack up one side of the car to releive any bind in the 4wd

It would be from 4 cyl xt mpfi turbo and non turbo. The heads should have dual ports as xt never came with carb or spfi. You might be into swapping heads to use a carburetor. otherwise, it could have been carb or spfi that was converted to flat belts from an xt if it has flat belts, it would have a 105mm water pump. you will need a 110 mm water pump and the correct pulley if converting it back to v belt

general rule: head gaskets match the block, timing belt match the heads. as far as i know, the sohc phase 2 2.2 and 2.5 use the same belt and pulleys. but phase 1 and phase 2 use different belt and sprockets from eachother.

in regards to knock sensor, try sea foaming the engine if there is excessive carbon causing knock, and try a higher octane fuel. in regards to misfire, inspect the plugs and read their condition. this will tell you a lot. open the back of any haynes manual for a spark plug color chart indicating burn condition. also, consider replacing the ign wires with NGK brand. I was once foiled by bad plug wires resulting in swapping a bunch of sensors until new wires cured my toruble. in regards to the trans, make sure the fluid level is correct. I had a pan leak, that once it leaked out enough, the shifting became delayed, didn't go into overdrive, and the rpms had to stall up first before the car would move. From that point, it took 4 qts(1 gallon) of fluid to bring it back up to a proper level. There is a cold and a hot level on the dipstick, and fluid level must be cecked in park while idling at operating temp. Perhaps the trans cooler line is leaking onto the exhaust, causing the fluid loss and burning smell.

My 98 forester with frankenmotor and new seals was using 1 qt a week. i was able to reduce consumtion to 1 qt every 2 weeks by replacing the PCV valve, until the ring land broke. i'm sure the oil was being used past the rings as well, but the PCV did help a lot in that regard. I have had success rejuvinating old oem PCV vlves by sea foaming them. I work at an oil change shop, and some later model cars come in with low oil at 3000 miles, and these are cars with moderate miles, and unserviceable PCV's. I noticed toyota uses the same type of pcv, but unfortunately, our shop doesn't stock this type of PCV valve. And with failed pcv valve in mind, there are some late model engines coming in with 'rear main seal leaks', and i would bet suggesting a PCV valve would help that.

I am sort of going to hijack this thread as i was going to ask about the same thing for ea82. So i will join this discussion. I have seen online LED bulbs available for 194 sockets and 1156 and 1157 sockets, available fir white, red, and amber. FOr an ea82 the front marker lams oare some 67 bulb and an 1157 will not fit in the housing, but some types of LED are big around as the base, and others more the shape of a traditional bulb. I am disappointed with auto store selection for replacement bulbs, as they remind me of the cheap throwaway led flashlights you find for 3 bucks in a gas station. Some of the other strip light kits seem appealing, but not for retail markup price. And the idea of bulk strips seems more cost efficient for inventing lighting arrays. I would think the higher priced ones, or at least the ones withthe square led's in the bulb would be better quality than the dome looking led elements. I am consiering strip LED's and cutting them down and making panels to use in the tail lamps instead of one centralized bulbs. To add to discussion, i would like to contribute some questions. Recommended manufacturer? Which supplier gets the best price? What color ranges are they on the kelvin scale? I am not partial myself to too blue a color like 6000k, but more like 5000k or 3700k. Who has used them and what is your impression?

Read the one about the broken ring land. that is how it's doing today. I blame the failure on unknown history and rusty cylinder walls combined with low octane fuel and woman driver. The misfire was jus the plugs wires, which somehow i assumed were done, but weren't http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/144928-frankenmotor-failure/?hl=frankenmotor By the way, the misfire and the failure later on have no correlation with eachother. Aside frm the integrity of the used block, the misfire issue was cured with another set of wires

I drove mine 10 miles home with nothing but the caliper brackey holding the works together, with some 45 deg camber on the wheel. The rotor lost an inch in diameter, and wore the caliper bracket down to the slide pin. It is still functional

if the o-ring behind the oil pump has collapesd, it could be aerating the oil where the hla's are getting oil, but not pumping up with pressure. look for fine bubbles on the dipstick whele she's running. I like the idea oc removing the rockershfts and inspecting for RTV junk. RTV should not be used for anything but maybe the water pump or exhaust gaskets. Ultra black is preferred for the water pump, and ultra grey is preferred for ayy mating surfaces containing oil (oil pump, pan gasket, case halves, oil separator baffle, corners of valve cover gasets)

My reference to the CTS sensor is the one with the green pigtail with 2 wires. the single spade terminal is or the dash gauge. With the mention of juggling wires, make sure the intake harness is grounded to one of the intake bolts on the far end of the harness. Check or a corroded pin where the intake harness meets the body. There isn't really much more to diagnose there than the idle is being manipulated by the ACV, by either some sort of input issue, , or some fault in the plumbing. One thing to consider is there could possibly be a fault in the ECU board As i stated before ,my 88 gl sedan would do this, sort of whenever it felt like it, but didn't have any performance or stalling issues.

I work in an oil shop, and for my 98 forester (ej25d) it calls for 4.2 qts w/filter. This brings the level halfway up the safe margin. Anywhere between the 2 dots is acceptable as long as it is not low. It takes 4.5 qts to bring it up to the top. IF your car consumes oil, top it off; otherwise, in the middle is acceptable. Interesting fact, the 2.5 calls for 5w30 oil, but the 2.2 (01 impreza) calls for 10w30 according to my catalog at the oil shop. I you read the owners manual, it may state (as it does for the 98 forester) that "5w-30 is not recommended for prolonged high speed operation)

Make sure the flat washer is on correctly, as it is actially a spring washer with a slight dome curvature, with the dome side against the nut. of the cone washer has a lip worn onto the edge of it, it should be replaced. good luck

MY 88 sedan used to do this. I went through a series of used junkyard engine temp sensors. I would suggest testing or replacing the temp sensor if you haven't considered it yet.

consider rebuilding the oil pump. this is lifter tick. definitely not a rod knock or piston slap.

I odubt your engine is on it's last leg unless you are just driving aroud with o coolant or oil. i counsider 141,ooo miles low mileage when these engines routinely exceed 250,000 and 300,000 miles

A lack of a cotter pin cost me a wheel bearing in my 3door coupe. The nut backed out enough for the bearing to spit out all the roller bearings. Whoops! This occurred today and i was forced to drive it home 10 miles.

Cometic Gaskets: This motor built:

Is it possible that 00 and up legacy and 05 and up impreza shock style rear strut will retrofit into an ea82 with ea82 top mount and coilover springs? I speculate this could work, but have no parts to mock up. Has anyone done this? I would like to know that late model struts will retrofit, and if there is a kyb agx II strut for the application.