MilesFox

maybe it broke a timing belt. worst case it needs a timing belt anyway the car is a rere find with the full time 4wd and the lsd. you better grab it you cant go wrong if you keep it , sell it, or part it, because with that driveline package you are sitting on a piotential gold mine. as long as the seller doesnt realize what he's got

not so much that the amplifier is going bad but .050 will stress it and make it fail till it sots a while. i spent the night at a gas station 45 miles fom home. swapped out hte accel for the stock coil and mad e it home. changed the disty and the ar still ran ill but runs. anyway the gap may be too much without a beefier ignitor try .045 and see if that helps

why not go get a head gasket? are the timing belts on properly?

its like the time my wheel fell off an punctured from the wheel well rust. no jack and no spare, 45 miles fom home. so i waved a guy down and borrowed his jack. put on the flat tire. drove home needless to say i has an 11 inch rim by the time i got there, the tire disintegrated 10 miles out the guys on the board threwa fit when they read that one:grin:

on the contrary i think the xt seats are more comfortable as the gl10 seate are too fluffy for my bony A. i guess its a matter of preference.

run a wire from the battery to the + terminal on the coil and see if it runs. if so, the components are good but you are not getting power from somewhere between the fuse and the key or the key and the coil. if the jumper wire works you can connect it to a toggle switch thus allowing you to drive the car till you fix the real problem

the xt6 seats sit lower. good for being tall, you sit down in the car more like an ea81. the reason they sit lower is because the lower roof in the xt the xt6 still has the height adjust. in fact, to swap in the xt seats you will have to swap the tracks. good thing, the tracks coming from the gl-10 you can keep the height adjust it takes a bit of mild modification... to swap the tracks you will need a allen head or a #3 phillips or both to take the tracks off the bottom. also you will have to separate the inge for thw adjust part. since the rail is linger on one side you will have to drill a hole and add a bolt and a spacer, a lugnut or something similar will work for a spacer the slide forward part, the teeth for the track will have to be bent out slightly so they release. the cable across the tracks for the teeth on the other side will have to be re-bent to take some slack out, as the one you will be using is slightly too long sounds kinda complicated but once you have them apart you will see what im referring to right easily

drop the differential hanger mounts, the big round mount with the 19mm nut on each side. drop both sides so you can swing the diff left to right and this will give you room to move. if you need more room take out the bolt on the lower half of the shock where it connects to the trailing arm

its the same principal as vacuum, when the car is idling it has high vacuum because the throttle is closed. when open, the vacuum drops but yo have volume of flow. so this analogy for the fuel system, you have the pressure when the fuel is stopped up by the carb's float valve, and when the pressure drops, that is because its flowing into the carb and thru the motor its like when you put your finger on the end of a garden hose. plug it up and water shoots out fast but not that much. let go and it pours out freely. wit it plugged and the water coming out faster it may seem to be more water but its coming from the same hose and faucet, so its really not

you can make a nice clean install of a pushbutton on the knockout plates in the dash. here's a picture: the car is an 88 and the bezel is from an 86. that is why it says fan but actuallt nothing goes there. on the 88 its a square cover if you pop it off theres a hole to use. there is also a knockout where the blue switch is and on the other side of the wheel as well, all of these make for nice clean switch or button installs, should you have to resort to a pushbutton

looks like 3 tanks of gas should do, let me find a 3 day period and im game. check your email

helicoil it or just cram it in however, as a last resort before replacing the head. if it threads in or evern cross threads, it will still do so long as you dont have to take it out anytime soon...... i say this as a last ditch try if you determine you may have to replace the head, or take it off for that matter. if you funck up the threads a helicoil will fix it anyway. take out one of the other plugs and try it to ssee if it threads so you dont buy a new plug for nothing

actually older model soobs circa 1982 had the fuel pump under the hood.

do you have a mechanical or electronic disty? basically is the cap held on with screws or clips. does it have one pigtail with a white plastic plug, or a long pigtail with a big fat plug and 2 wires to the coil? describe the air box, does it have a small MAF withy a black top or a big cast metal one as in the flapper style?

looks like the same sti strut brace someone just posted about thinking it was modified. but seeing the same thing in 2 different pics/posts there must have been an ea82 sti bar the black one looks to be dirty. now thats a brocure showing a new car with mud on it, under the hood!

they wonty spin if they have mud caked in them. so whats the point? chrome trim rings do nicely, now thatis subaru classic.

ok one thing about the clutch, please try this before you assume the clutch is bad the cable may be too tight. if the cable is too tight it acts as if the pedal is partially depressed. back off the adjustmet nut till its floppy. tighten by hand enough to take the play out of the fork, and maybe a turn or 2 to adjust pedal height. try this first before tearing the clutch apart. how many miles? i stress this because a guy had me fix a slipping clutch. we tore the tranny out and dude realixzed he forgot his new parts. i looked at the existing parts and they were new lookin!. sanded off the glaze and put it back together. re adjusted the cable and no problem with the same parts. cable was too tight from whoever installed the parts. report back withy your findings

good news and "bad" news: the good news is i have the 200 dollar job lined up for tomorrow or the next day, so i can pay my ins. the "bad" news is i have an interview at the u-haul for a job. if it turns out u haul takes me right away i will have to take that as priority so i can draw an income and put towards rent, and then plan for a free week afterwards to make a trip.

yeah put me in for some fake rust as well. sumulated flaking clearcoat and the illusionary flat tire! maybe there is a market or this stuff "performance low slung exhaust" as in falling off spinning bent rim fake busted headlight, or fake headlight water(to prove river fording) anyway i would be in the market for some fake wet grass, since golf courses are risky business

yeah under boost its possible you will boost past the valves, but the mpfi cams will still work to run the mpfi ecu is the same as turbo, the only thing different is a pin grounded to identify it as turbo or non

i would entertain the idea of going out there to fix it, how far would that be from milwaukee, wisconsin? its possible i could come up with a tranny here if i go east to do this work and tow some subarus across states anyway i would do it for the price of gas and include the tranny with a price should i get the tranny myself milesfox@yahoo.com

#1 cylinder is hte front piston on the passenger side. firing order is 1-3-4-2 rotation is counterclockwise, #1 on the cap is the one towards the back to the right of the clip/screw, and in the general direction of the brake master cylinder hope this helps maybe you got some wires backwards. dont forget to connect the coil wire!

hey the stock pcv valve on the car can be cleaned up as well with carb cleaner, so it rattles nicely. when replacing or cleaning the pcv valve, dont forget to factor in the hoses and alltheir routings too. they will clog up and harden much like a coronary artery so to speak. clean the hoses out or replace them if it comes to replacing the hoses snandard 5/8" heater hose will fit just right, you may need regular hose clamps gor the valve covers. run with enough length tsop you dont kink in the bends. chances are your "blowby past the rings" is really pcv related instead, if its internal its more likely valve seals

yo i have been communicating with jim about this towing business. im down for that so long as i can come up with 75 bucks by the 23d to cover insurance, if im going to be towing cars and all. anyway the tow dolly has new lights and wiring and i repaired the broken fender mount. jim i parted the new water pump you gave me for the rx for the sedan, since the rx is sitting all busted up right now, so that will put my car back to spec for towing. i figured out my alignment i need to turn the passenger tie rod out a few turns and replace the driver side front tire as its worn on the outside. the sedan tows really good but i can see 4mp 3rd gear in some really hilly country. but she maintains 55 up wisconsin hills mostly in 5th and sometimes 4th. downshift and slow early, brakes are only to come do a stop so its all shifting for control how much would a legacy weigh compared to an rx on a dolly loaded down with parts, 3500-400 lbs i presume i was towing in all with the sedan anyway i got 200 buks waiting for me as soon as i get to racine to fix a rear main seal in a subaru i had replaced a hub on earlier, so that should put me up if i get there within this week. if uhaul calls me i'll just tell them i wil be ready to start in 2 weeks or whatever, got to go where the moneys at, and ight as well get some more miles behind me before the inevitable with this dam court junk. anyway once i get this rear seal job done this week i will be MAKING SERIOUS PLANS to make this trip so my mind is set to go out towards the end of the month, so lets do this i have a viseo camera might as well bring it since i have already ofer 55 hours of tape as of now since the suabru alliance meet and the hot rod power tour

ol tim got a mac now from the film maker in LA, so he wont have to go to the college for limited access but use it anytime! now if he would get off the internet long enough to TURN IT ON maybe we'll see some progress:lol: sorry tim just a little motivation. laziness sucks yeah i have lots of drawings i have to do myself. its turning out to be a bigger project than it was originally slated for, best things come to those who wait!anyway things are shaping up with maybe towing brats to ny and hauling back legacies, gotta get the word on this uhaul place if i will be working htere anytime soon so if nothing right away i'll make plans to go by the end of the month, things are starting to fall into place its all a matter of timing(not as in belts, but i do need to fix the water pump. hoorray for open covers!)