MilesFox

hello matt and welcome to this fine subaru community. now that you have introduced yourself check out the marketplace forum for want to buy and for sale posts. maybe someone there will have what you want meanwhile enjot the message board and have fun

sorry guys i wont be able to make it this year, but next year can be planned for, in a trashwagon 5 II, the car we pulled from a field in iowa and put 2000 miles on it including part of the hot rod power tour. it will be sporting the full glory of trashwagons original bumpers, complete with subaru alliance II damage and the headliner, and carpet from the same roll. and a working fuel system although i have one of the original gas cans. www.trashwagon.com coming soon. same motor and tranny too. now to catch a toad and dry it out somehow. the movie should be done by then, if tim will GET OFF THE INTERNET!!! have fun, all of you

how is the water pump? i bring this up since a recent observation of my own car i towed my rx with a dolly in the spfi sedan 300 miles last week. ran a steady 230 deg in tow when the car would run 190-210 before. after i dropped the rx the car still ran at 230 deg on the highway at first i figured the load of towing was for 230, but with no towing and the same temp maybe the thermostat was bad or stretched out. then i let tim drive the car to work and the belt breaks. water pump had seized up. i freed it up with pliers and now the pulley wobbles. and this is why i bring up the water pump... well anyway i parted the new water pump from the rx and bought a thermostat, i'll change the pump first and see if she runs 230 or not and then the thermostat so i can narrow down the problem and post it here to go along with this topic

general rule for gasketed spark plugs and non gasketed plugs is: non gasket 1/8 tun past snug gasketed 1/4 past snug to squoosh it down

sounds good. not because your tranny is toast, but you have a spare that will fit like it is. thanx for filling me in on the problem, knowing all that i would replace the tranny since you have a spare, it all fits the same caleb, while im waiting for your reading comprehension book in the mail, people will come to me for answers sorry miles the only way to fix cross leaking would be to take the diff housing apart from the at itself. unless youre up for a challenge it would be easier to replace the whole tranny. you shouldnt have a hard tome finding one out there. but for all the effort maybe you could consider a 5spd of some sort

on a stock turbo unit the drain plug on the head is the water line for the turbo, the return line goes into the intake. the mpfi intake is not much different than turbo but the coolant line may not be there(would have to look) as dud mentioned you can tap into the heater hoses with a tee on turbos the pil line goes into the back of the head, and the oil return drains to the back of the head. if you look on th eback of the h ead you will see a flat spot that is round at the bottom, this is where the oil line will be on a turbo turbo heads are the same as the mpfi heads but with the passages. same ports you can put turbo heads on an n/a block and there you go. use turbo cams should you have a turbo top end for parts aside from tapping the heads i would do the oil pump and heater hose thing the plug on the oil pump is extra depending on if you have the big or small oilk pressure sending unit

if you resort to cutting the fenders, grab some regular gl fenders and krylon them. that way if you funck it up or dont likle the results, at least you preserved the integrity of the original rx fenders. do that or bring the car out here and let the rust do the work for you!

use the permatex "copper spray-a-gasket"

is your conclusin of the spline cout from what you looked at or what you read? the turbo 3at is the same as the non turbo, th eonly thing different is the stall rate of the torque converter. torque converters between turbo and non, pump shafts and anythig else are interchangeable between all 3spds ea82 and ea81. the turbo 3at has the fatter axles and doj like the 25 spline full time or MT axle, but it still has a 23 spline. so regular axles will fit on the 3at turbo, or 3at turbo axles can be used with non turbo manual trannies such as the dual range what kind of problems are you having with the tranny? if its a matter of not shifting into 3rd suspect the governor asembly before deducing the tranny itself as junk take off the cover on the paseenger side, the round piece with 3 bolts and pull out the governor shaft. inspect the gear. if the gear is worn down like an apple core this may be from low or inadequate lubrication for the front diff. the front diff takes regular gear lube liek the rear diff or a manual tranny and has its own dipstick and fill tube if the gear onb the governor looks good, clean it up really good, soak it in penetrany overnite and spray it out with carb cleaner. the shaft installs such as a distributor does but it doesnt have to align to anything, the mechanism works on centrifugal force relative to the speed of the front diff. see if this fixes your problem first before considering another tranny if it does come to replacing the tranny, all 86 and older trannys have a 3.7 final gear ratio. 87 and up turbo trannys have a 3.7 gear and non turbo a 3.9 ea81 trannies are physically the same but the rear mount is about an inch or 2 short, so an adapter would have to be fabricated report back with your symptoms

chack for any stripped teeth off the timing belt. if there is a definate seam between the teeth and the belt itself time to replace it thread the plug back in to make sure the threads are ok. you can put grease on the olug threads so if the thread is bad, the shavings will stick to the grease insted of falling in chances are the plug was not tight enough, so if the thread is good re-install it and re-torque it, make sure the belts arent broke and see if that fixes it

reminded me of an amc gremlin as well. if you are going for trashwagon look with those colors, make the blue from the wheel arches down, the body yellow, and the red follows the line that curves from the back 1/4 window down along the bottom of the windows to the corner of the fender anyway if you want my opunion the colors go good together but they should follow more the natural lines of the car

when tims cable broke it was ultra stiff as well the hill holder cable is actually the return spring, but this raises the pedal back up. you will want to make your clutch adjustments first before adjusting the hill holder its possible the cable may have been too tight. actually as the clutch wears out you wii loosen the cable to adjust it. too much tension on the cable will overextend the pressure plate, or wear on the cable itself you will want to adjust the cable by turning the nut by hand till it snugs against the fork, just enough tot take the slack of freeplay out. then you can turn it a turn or 2 or 3, to adjust your pedale height, but no more! then adjust the hill holder. calibrate the hill holder by backing in reverse, still holding the clutch after stopping shift into 1st and go. if the brakes stick its too tight. you will want it on the threshold of sticking for the hillholder to be working properly here is a story. this dude asked me to help him replace his clutch because it was slipping. he had the car for a few months after he bought it from some old lady after having a bunch of work done to it. anyway i help him tear out the tranny and he is like "oops, i forgot my parts!" anyway i took a look at the parts and they were new! but glazed. so i sanded down all the surfaces and out it back together and its perfect. whats the moral of this story? clutch cable was too tight

*mods please stick* i see there have been a lot of references to the timing belt article, but im sorry to see the pics are down because the server is down for maintenance i have made a zip file of the article for download as it appears on my website you can download the extraction utility from www.winzip.com i can make more packages for the other articles upon request timingbelt.zip

just think of a subar as a bicycle with 4 wheels to get you started. belts instead of chains. if a bike breaks down you can still push it home. if a subar breaks doen you can still drive it home

hey god deal glad you took care of it one way or the other. miracle the parts store had the cagble in stock!

and what if i DID show up, in a trashwagon for that matter. yeah you

yo if i was there an hour earlier i would have had it all on tape. got the story though "dont turn around, put yourt hands on the hood" "WHAT THE HELL!!!!" comning soon to a subaru alliance movie near you

well, lets suppose that someone before you had taken off all the plastic crap, it would only requere a 7/8" offset wrench and a 12mm socket to do the timing belts! easy stuff once you get your hands dirty. i always say that if you ever wanted to learn how to work on a car, a subaru is a good car to learn on. you are on this message board, right!?

a #3 phillips will fit thru the holes on the crossmember, or you can stick a 1/4" extension thro the crossmember holes and then the socket i find that a cordless drill is the right amount of torque to loosen, tighten these bolts. whats nice about them is you can start them with a screwdriver and then snug them down with a 1/4" dr. ratchet or cordless drill be careful not to over tighten the bolts as it will punch the gasket in half. also i recommend some gasket shellac such as hi-tack or indian head. torque the pan down from the corners first and work towards the middle of the sides

you will get the crank angle sensor code if the engine is not running, also the starter switch in some cases double check the timing belt alignment. sorry the pics are down in the article as the server is down for maintenance. i can provise pictures over the email if you want to see them milesfox@yahoo.com the 7 flashes would be a model designation code. the motor you hear running is the fuel pump. the green clips are to cycle the fuel pump and to set the static timing at the distributor(simulates plugging the vacuum advance for a mechanical disty) the black or white clips are for retrieving the engine codes themselves

i wonder if the engine temp sensor is bad, not the one for the dash gauge, but the one for the ecu. try the code procedure per the article in the USRM-repair and mod > miscellaneous

make sure the belts are installed properly. you cant line them up with o deg and both dots up, this is not the way to do it! line up the 3 individual marks on the flywheel to the center mark. install the driver side belt with the dot up once the driver side belt is installed, rotate the crank a full 360 degrees so the mark on the flywheel re-alighns and the cam pulley dot is facing down. now install the passenger side belt with the dot up. rotate the crank and check your aignments now you can line up the odeg mark for the distributor, the dot on the passenger cam pulleyy will be pointing toward the corner of the cam cover, just below the word SUBARU

kinf of pull in and out on them, they will lwt go. suction from the oil behind them kind of holds them in. you can wrap the end of the lifter with a rag and tug on it with pliers. also use some kind of starting fluid or brake/carb cleaner and spray it into the oil gallerys that feed the lifters from behind

i use a dremel with the flex extension, i will use one of the metal blade type bits to get my shape, and follow thru wuth stones. be careful as stones will clog up, so use light to moderate pressure and a medium rpm under load. finish up with the sanding drum i like to use the cylindrical stones for most of the work and the cone stones for tighter splaces. when selecting stones read the details on the back of the package to pick the best one for aluminum, as the stones come in different textures and colors depending on their intended application