MilesFox

you can shove a rubber hose between the door sill and the window to keep it in place so it doenst fall down on you

firing order is 1-2-2-4. the farthest back terminal on the cap, to the right of the screw or clip is #1. the rotor rotates counterclockwise #1 cylinder is towards the fron on the passenger side. at o deg tdc the rotor will point to the hill holder spring, the dot on the passenger side cam will be aligned witth the ridge casted below the SUBARU on the cam cover one time i worked on theis subaru and it had a distributor cap that fit the disty, but the numbers were out of order and the rotation was the other way. threw me off i had to re-align the belts. of course i had to do this motor with the absence of correct marks, as it was an ea82 motor in an ea81 brat with the 4spd's flywheel for every 360 the crank rotates the cam rotates 180 another possibility is maybe a rocker has fallen out from under the cam. this is possible if the cam tower was installed with the motor in the car hope this info helps i would say go through the timing belt procedure, remove the belts and start over if you have to

all rear diffs are 23 splines. the torx bit is inside the axle stub. if the 3.9 case is an ea82 there will be no grinding or drilling. see my attatchment on the article in the usrm

ask for exhaust manifild/header gasket, tell them its the engine to exhaust side. i like to use the copper silicone as well on both sides of the gasket, use anti-seize compound on the nuts

dam right. i would stay away from using bearing grease as you dont want it to get on the clutch disc

do you mean the f;ange under the car after the tranny? you will want a DONUT GASKET about 2 in or so, and use spring bolts as replacements

why not just fix the timing belt? if you wanted the doors swap them onto your current ride and use your leftover parts on the one with the broken timing belt, fix the belt and either keep it or sell it to make your money back

use anti seize compound. that or white lithium grease

if you have trouble locating a coolant temp sensor for a subaru, you can cross reference with a nissan 240 sx, its the brown one, not the blue one

look for what appears to be a 14mm bolt head on the bottom of the head. each head has one, the one on the passenger side will be toward the front, the one on the driver side toward the back, mirror opposite. my car made a drip and i checked the plug and found it missing? dont ask me how the car held water but i replaed it promptly also check out the hose between the intake and the block as it could be leaking and dribbling down the front or back of the motor

well the car is no more, its been dead for almost a year. the entire driveline is in the rx. the last i saw of the car i came to stabbing the roof with a screwdriver as the police showed up, i barely remember as i was cracked out on xanax. no more for me

make sure the wheel bearings are not bad, since you are having the axle out you may as well replace the bearings as well

what if one of the drain plugs on the heads are not tight?

when installing the torque converter to the tranny, take it off the back of the motor by the 4 12mm bolts slip the torque converter onto the shaft on the tranny. spin the torque converter and it will seat onto the splines, you will feel it sink in, the teeth for the starter will be flush with the bellhousing of hte tranny then install the motor its easiest when you install the rear tranny mount to the body, then jack the front of the tranny up a few inches so the motor slides onto its studs, and the motor mounts clear the frame when going inward you can slip a long prybar in the holes of the flexplate(flywheel) to hold the motor still to tighten the 12mm bolts on the torque converter

my sedan would get wet, the trim around the rear window had a rust hole as far as wagons look for rusty spots and then above to locate any possible water entry

is this a sedan, or a hatch. i have seen both an ea82 sedan and a hatch do this, pushing down on the lever would release it enough to close. if that does not work suspect the cable itself

i am in milwaukee near the college i will be out here till about the 14th of may before i haed out. i believe there is ferry service here too, i think its about 30 bucks

yo in the midst of frankenswapping clusters for at to 5spd converted soobs, i decided to swap the prndl out for the 4wd in the middle of the cluster. one was from an 87 carb and the other from an 89 turbo. the 87's had an extra wire in back so i opened it up to check it out. i found a swotch inside the odometer that looks to trip every so many miles. so if yours is on the switch triggered it as a reminder rather than something just went out couldnt tell you how to clear the code off hand check the usrm>miscellaneous> ecu codes or the haynes book chapter 6-4

you will have to swap the engine harness, you will have to take off the bumpers to get to the fenders to get to the wiring, all the wiring will pull thru the same hole, the one by the fuse panel. the wiring off the other side disconnects from the rest, that will be the side of the harness for the tranny also by swapping the dash you will have the instrument cluster, and the dash contains the control unit for the transmission you may want to consider swapping the body harness. i did a manual tranny conversion to an 89 4spd auto, and we swapped in a dash from an 87 turbo 5spd, the car started and the gauges worked, but there were different styled plugs on one end and our power lock didnt work, i think its the same wires but just different clips but i think this may have been a difference in year. as in the 85-86 have the same wiring, the 87 would be a cross between 85-86 and the 88 and up i believe 88 and up are all the same wiring. same is true for loyales, that have no options, the connections are on the harness if you added options

i live in fort wayne, in, i am in wisconsin now maybe i could go see it on my way home. is this in th e UP of michigan? and there are others that may be closer. i leave for home around may 16, hollar at my emil if you dont find anyone milesfox@yahoo.com

pimpin. i see na mpfi spider xt motor in the jankity one

during the cam rotations, do you think itys possible you have the disty 180 off? use a pipe and a deadblow hammer to tap the mounting tabs on the disty to free it up, turn and pull for the disty alignement the dot on the passenger cam will; point on the ridge above the SUBARU on the cam cover for every 2 rotations of the rank, the cam will turn once. take off the belts and leave the cams as they are, then turn the crank 360 and re-install and see if that works i had a similar issie puttin an ea82 together and i had to double check the timing and found the crank needed rotated again for the cam alignments

yeah its the same, same lenght and 23 splines as the ea82 axle. i have xt6 axles in my 87 gl-10

if anyone has any pics of trashwagons from either wcss5, iowa II, or any other gatherings such as the road trips, please post a link or email them to either myself or TimHansen, as we are compiling the material for the movie project and its upcoming supporting website. thanx one set of pics i am particularly interested in are the ones that jerry bratsrus took of us loading up the trashwagon at his place, if they have been digitized

the haynes book "subaru 1600 & 1800" is a decent book, way better than chiltons and has good electrical diagrams. you can find it at autozone and the like, but you may have to order it if its not in stock, for about 15 bucks you can look here too http://www.warpthree.com/milesfox/subaru/subaruframe.htm