MilesFox

maybe the parking lights are on. check the switch on top of the steering column

you migt as well fix it, and catch up on all the engine seals too it would suck to find another motor just to have it be leaking too. what is with the fear of head gaskets anyway? pull the motor and set it in a 5 gallon bucket and bust out the torque wrench. thats all there to it

so is everything still in line for the off roading? its time to buckle down on the plans as we have exactly one month to finalize things

would you have an ea81 2wd or 4wd rear suspension tube, as i would like to build a trailer out of one. i am also looking for blue interior parts for ea81 4wd

try pulling the engine codes, with spfi its easy to narrow down a faulty component. you may have a buggy throttle position sensor, sometimes clocking it will fix any tps issues. try the codes per the article in usrm> miscellaneous and report back

ed, you will have to remove the axle from the knuckle to service the bearings. if the gboots are ok then you wont have to bother withthe axle. depending on your budget you can get a NEW axle from advance autoi for 60 bucks after a 45 dollar core, its lifetime so if you break one you can exchange it. if you are worried about having to maybe service the axle you can get a new one now if you do have torn boots you stand a good chance of cleaning out the old grease and re booting it, as the axle should have some life to it. if you get a new boot it will come with clamps and a pack of grease, and sometimes a roll pin and snap rings. the inner side of the axle comes apart easy, but the uter end you need a drift and a vise to get it apart make sure to use moly ep grease inside the axle should you go that route keep in mind when popping the ball joint you may rip the boots with a pickle fork, this is ok if you intend to replace the ball joint. otherwise you can remove the pinch bolt and leave the ball joint on the lower control arm, and separate the top side from the knuckle. a long bar placed across the lower control arm under the axle and wedged into the radius rod mount is useful for pushing the lower control arm away enough to pop the ball joint out once the ball joint is separated then you can pul the axle away from the tranny (after the pin is removed) once the axle is off the tranny you can use a hammer to drive the axle out be careful not to damage the htreads. i take the axle nut off, then tread it on backward so its flush with the axle thread, use a block of wood and a hammer to get it going, take the nut off. i like to butt the round end of a ball peene hammer to drive it out the rest of the way with e 3 lb hammer to drive the axle back in, if the knuckle is on the car you can put the tranny end of the axle on once the threaded side is fed into the knuckle, you can tap around the knuckel to start the axle thru, and use the nut to draw it the rest of the way. if the knuckle is off the car you can use a hammer and a block of wood to drive it in from the tranny end. sometimes a new axle will just slide in with little effort good luck once you figure it out the first time any time after should be a breeze.

try to take the reservoir off rather than the whole pump. take a long hose and bleed the lines into a jug. dammit atf is messy. i dont understand

i tell you what i feel a lot safer riding in an ea82 subaru than say some grand am or cavalier, i wont be sucked under the dash in a subaru! let me remind you that if your car has an automatic seat belt, PLEASE wear the lap belt also. sure its convenient to keep you from getting tickets, but it does NOTHING without the lap belt buckled. i dont see a point in wearing only the shoulder part alone, if that were the case i would wear none of it, but i always buckle the lap portion the reason i stress this is someone i know passed away last week when she was ejected from her legacy, the car rolled over on her. if she had the lap belt on it wouldnt have been such a sad story

yo my buddy also is rick james ***************. he slapped his own mamma cause she called him rick. he told the *************** its rick james ***************. also known as zanny dook, chewbacca. the white wookie. welcome to the board, rick james, bithc!

yo i got tenative plans to come up to pauls to work on some soobs. if you need a hand in parting fixing, or expediting the car i could help out. i have a tow bar that fits on ea82 subarus. heck i may be interested in the car myself, if you part it off for what you want, as long as it has a title and can be put back together i could take it with me. depending on the junkyard we could tow it to the yard and pull the suspensions this works out good with the towbar as i have junked 3 cars this way i figure if im out that way might as well get things lined up and run cartel on that part of the country! holalr back

even if you use the converter or use rivets and new metal(going the no-weld route) still you will want to cut away any of the flaky rusted metal what you can and treat whats left before making the repair.

check to see if any of the timing belts are broken. perhaps you broke the passenger side, as this will run on 2 cyl. the car will not run at all if the driver side breaks the squealing may have ben a bad tensioner pulley, and if it locked up it would burn up the belt is the carb original, does it look like its all hooked up? maybe the car is a late 87 on the body but is considered 88 for registration

have you pulled the engine codes? maybe the TPS is bad my car sometimes bogs a little at low rpm upon acceleration. my ecs stays on code 32 o2 sensor. i conneced a grond to the exhaust, the car would run good and the ecs light still on. then the ecs light goes off, i can feel a difference in the way she pulls and the smell of the exhaust. but every now and the n the ecs light returns and the car bogs out again it hasnt been so bad lately, no code pulling this time. maybe its off just enought o affect how it runs but not throw a code my exhaust is not hung on the mount below the tranny, i have read about the o2 sensor grounds thru the exhaust(and not the exhaust stud on the head) and adding a ground wire seems to be helping, although it took the car 200 miles to notice it if i have any more problems my next move would be throttle pos sensorn related, my car is an 88 sedan with a motor from an 86 wagon and the spfi intake form a 91 loyale

keep the stock y pipe intackct if its not rusted through i have a cherry bomb on mine, i am using the stock y pipe and have a cherry bomb mated up to the flange and custom length after that the stock y is perfect for the engines performance characteristics, but if you have a new y pipe made keep it close to the original's dimensions. use 1 3/4 oe 1 7/8" pipe till it joins into one, and use 2 or 2 1/4 after that make the muffler in the middle after the y pipe, and rn open pipe thereafter

i know of 2 guys who bought perfectly good soobs because of improperly installed belts one was an xt6 that was abandonned at a shop, the guy got it and checjked the belts, it ran like a scalded dog and then he parted it out(no title) the other guy bought an 88 dl for 85 bucks, after the previous owner paid 400 bucks to have the belts done. i took a look at it and sure enough the belts were on wrong. re aligned the belts and now the car has seen many miles with nmo problems i wrote the timing belt article, the original article is on my website http://www.warpthree.com/milesfox/subaru/subaruframe.htm

as long as the car was not left in 4wd it would be ok, as the rear wheels and driveshaft would spin freely and is not engaged with the tranny in front wheel drive towing on all 4 is ok for a few miles, but the pump in the tranny wont be circulating the atf but in fwd mode if the front was on the tow truck and the back wheels on the ground this is ok

tim hansen, i could see about making a leg of the power tour we'll discuss this when i arrive to wisconsintune

there is a dust cover on the bottom of the bellhousing, you can remove that and the wrench may just fall out

check the fuse for the ign and charge circuit also check the wires at the back of hte alternator to see if they energize and to see if there is continuity from the pwer lead to the battery with the key on, these fuses should have power on both sides. i fried something in my car installing a radio, and the ecu had no power, because i accidentally grounded out the green wire to the radio(hot at all times) i was a moment away from tearing out the dash until i jumped a wire from the battery to the green wire, and behold i had power to the ecu and the car runs now. this is temporary till i sort thru the wiring harness. check for 12 volts at the green wire. if its not present you can try what i did, at your own risk

get ahold of the Hatch Patrol guys as they have built ea81 with spfi pistons for higher compression and such. dont know all the details about the buld but i have seen one example in person, they also used a turbo crosspipe and built up an exhaust from it, instead of using a y pipe

the inner side of the axle is called the DOJ (double offset joint) and it allows for the travel of the suspension. when these go out you will feel it tug on the steering wheel upon acceleration or deceleration, the trasition between such the inner side of the axle can be rebuilt yourself rather easily, and taking the axle out of hte knuckle side is not required. what i would do is get a new boot kit, it will come with clamps and grease. take the axle aprt and clean out the grease and inspect for garring or chunks of metal. if everything looks good go ahead and reboot it with new grease, if it looks bad then get a whole axle

i was listening to paul harvey on the AM radio and they siad there is a prakn in the UK where people will bust out a window to parked cars on hills and release the handbrake to watch the carnage someone did this to my car, i went out to go to work and found my car a block down the road up against a curb. left the door unlocked, no broken window, in fact, its the same sedan tomrhere has right now anyway email me an addressand i'll pull it up on the mapquest on my way to milwaukee

one method which i like to practice, as ina n off the side of the road repar(change axle) loosen the castle nut on the bottom of the ball joint. thread the nut on backwards so that it is flush with the bottom of the stud. place a jack on the nut and jack it up so that it loads up the sispension. use a 3 lb hammer to tap on the lower control arm on both sides and the tension of the spring will pop the lower control arm down and away from the ball joint use a long bar about 3 ft long, feed it thru under the axle so that it rides along the inside of the raduis rod and wedge it into the radius rod mont. then you can push down on the bar to pop the ball joint stud out of the lower control arm hole(after you take the nut off!)

you can use a hammer to whack the side of the ball tie rod end, and tap on the knucle where it goes thru, and a lot of times this will pop it out

the speedometer cable is soleley mechanical, there is no electrical to it its possible that if you were working under the hood you may have tugged on it and popped it off the back of the cluster. i have seen this happen when someone was changing the heater hoses, and pulled it out from behind the cluster