MilesFox

check the continuity of the battery cable that leads to the starter. i have seen cables that look good baut have a break inside the sheath of the cable. if that cable were to be bad, you still would have power to the fuse links, but not to the starter itself

a 4x4 with lo range would be better than a turbo without lo range, as gearing will play more in towning and hlls than horsepower. as far as what you can tow, i have never towed a boat, but i have towd other subarus with my towbar and 88 sedan, 2wd at to 4wd 5spd conversion towing another soob on the highway i can go 55 mph in 4th gear at about 35oo rpm, once on the highway it wuld carry 5th gear ok but the occasional downshift to 4th for hills the nice thing about a dual range is you can take off in low thru 3rd then shift into hi. if this were to be tha case on pavement only, you could remove the rear half of the driveshaft to use lo range 5th gear lo is just a tad taller than 3rd gear hi if you are talking about a john boat or aluminum vessel, you shouldnt have any problems, and all the 5th gear you want if you can trailer the boat versus loading it on the roof, i would recommend towning as anything on the top will create a bunch of aerodynamic drag that will bog you down at highway speeds

cleveland isnt far i could alwas come out and give a hand, or maybe find some parts for you

http://www.warpthree.com/milesfox/subaru/service/service.htm

aany ea82 front window glass is the same between wagon and sedan, 85-94. manual glass will fit on power rail and vice versa the only difference is the back door windows, the wagon has a different profile than the sedan i got a fiew pieces of glass myself, which side do you need? i may be rolling out to wisconsion i could leave the window for you wherever you will be. let me know what side you need and if you are interested, my email is milesfox@yahoo.com

DAMMIT!

would ea81 nuts and washers work?

so how dos that thing run now? did you get the coil; pack problem solved? the last time i saw some donting was mostly dust and dirt, i was inside and missed some of it.aybe you should send a tape to the butler maintenance dept!

if there are no stampings on the washer, you will see that it is slightly convex, the convex side will face out and the concave side in, so that it clamps down along the outer diameter of the cone washer the spacer, when you pack the bearings with grease pack in the space around the outside fo he spacer as well if the the axle stub can be driven out in the same fashion as a front cv spindle, once you remvoe the rear axle first. there are roll pins on both sides of one axle, drop the diff from the rear hanger and move it sideways to take out he axle

yo tim its likely i could make the wisconsin rather immediately after my duration here in columbus. i will be sitting on a little bit of $$$ for fuel and insurance. plus there is a guy along the way in indiana looking for a motor, if i could set something up with him tht would go a long way. soon woule be better than leter as i have a whole month to do things and wont have to be back till my court date on may 16. what about the wagon in iowa, maybe a chance at running after it? officer planck said they can relaese the 3 tapes see what you can do about that as if i could bring them to you

sounds like the axle tou have is too big, a 25 spline on a 23 sline tranny. what tranny do you have? 5sods have 23 splines, and turbo 5spds have 25 splines. all automatics have 23 splines the roll pin on the inside does not take any toque load. the splines take the torque. the pin is htere to keep the axle from sliding off the splines if the axle fit loosely over the spline it is indeed the wrong one if you want the fattest axles or if you converted a turbo 5spd to a dual range non turbo 5spd, you can order or look for axles that go to a 3spd automatic turbo, as they have the same diameter of the shaft and doj as a turbo axle, and the spline count is correct for any 23 spline tranny otherwise, you can use any 3spd automatic turbo or non turbo axle, 4wd, 2wd, and non turbo 5spd 2wd and 5wd axles

no the rear diff wont bind since the rear is open, and the front is open, any differences in wheel speed will transfer across the car diagonally now, one of the axles on the front will be locked in with one of the axles on the rear. so this means that when you are turning, the axle that is MISSING will take up the slack and expell it to thin air, the other axle on front will be going withthe free spinning wheel on the inside of hte rear while turning. so when you are turning the power to the outside wheel that is sriving the car wil be transferred to the free axle stub in the air now the one thing youDONT want to do is try to go betwin 2wd and 4wd while rolling, because the front diff will not be engaged withteh front wheels, and engaging or disengaging will grind the center locking gear because of the differences of speed between a rolling rear diff and an idle front now, thisa would be safe at a stop, but there is no need to do so once its in 4wd(rwd) it will stay engaged all the time unless you move the lever, and it wont pop out lie say, going too fast in reverse and it pos into neautral if you have a dual range tranny with hi and lo, you can go between hi and lo in and out all day long and not hurt anything, since both hi and lo will still be engaged as 4wd(rwd). so you can leave it in hi for cruising or drop it into lo for holeshots

tighten it up and see if that cures the matter. if not, then consider the wheel bearing. make sure all the washers are there, there is a cone washer first, then a flat washer. if these are missing there is the cause of your problem if you indeend do have to replace the wheel bearing, there is a special socket required to access the inner bearing the rear bearing on the outside is cone shaped, and the torque of the nut is what holds it all together. so a loose nut will let it wobble a bit. if its tight it should not wobble

yo i got your email and phone number. over here in columbus there is a turbo motor with a blown head gasket we are using the heads and the top end, but the bottom end may be extra i will hollar at john about it, and aside from a head gasket set that would fix you right up.

54mm chevy small block

danny put legacy struts and knuckles on the 93 ipmreza, the axles are too big. so does this mean the 2wd 5spd impreza is a 23 sline axle? does thismean xxt6 5-lugs with dual range trannies? does this mean cheap ej conversion?

my car doesnt even have one, 88 spfi sedan.

yeah try pulling on it for the same effect. i used a deep socket have you tried that? sounds likethe treads are gone. what if you can pop a screwdriver under the nut as you turn it?

sounds like the ecu temp sensor is out of whack. a new one is 17 bucks if you cant fnd it look up a nissan 240 sx, the brown sensor will work its located behind the intake under the turbo cleaning the contacts may help as well

take a look at the tranny mounds. does the shifter move around when it jerks?

yo if you need a motor i can find one for you, there are a few carb blocks you could build on for a little more compression. how far is bristol from fort wayne? i will be coming back from columbus with parts. hollar hollar

yeah good deal, i swapped a disty gear for an spfi mock up. on mine i turned the spfi gear upside down and tack welded it, as the pin didnt line. bit i guess you can swap the gear between the 2 distys if i was you i wouldn't pass it up. have fun

the play in the axle stub rotationally is the play in the differential gears of the front driveline. any play up and down, side to side would be the bearing that centers the axle stub. if this followed from the last soob with the tranny it very wel may be the tranny if its tired or old. if you have had no reliability issues then go ahead and keep driving. as far as noise is concerned what about a thicker gear oil?

pat is a good guy, i met him as he made his cross country cartel. very noble of him to cover the damages. now what about clocks that work but dont keep time after a week, such as being an hour off?

the rough idle may be from corrosion of the electrical terminals. does the ecs light come on? you can pull a code from the ecu and that will tell you something a lot of times a bad connection will throw a code, and wiggling/unplu/re-plugging, or cleaning of the trminals will fix the problem check out he ecu temp sensor, its the one with the green plug and 2 wires on the thermostat body also you may want to consider doing the timing belts. not that that is the problem, but an unexpected broken timing belt is about the only thing that will leave you stranded. the belts should be replaced avery 60 thousand miles. ask the previous owner when the timing belt was last serviced if you do the timing belts and you have it apart that far you may as well do all the seals if youwant to do the belts only first, you can leave all theplastic covers off, and that will make any future service less work