MilesFox

once you get the 17mm nut off it will com out. you may have tp oush down on themotor as you turn the nut, it may have abad thread not leyying it come off. the motor itself it s tight fit, you have to turn it at hte right angle to get it out of the hatch.

jack the car up by the tube frame so the tire is off the gorund take off the tire and locate the bottom of the strut. take out the bolt so the lower control arm swings away and no weight on the strut when youpuy it back together, bolt the top first then the bottom

a 3 dcoor is a rare beast. i would haggle down what you can but dont pass it up, if you want a 3-door! to put an ea81 you would have to modify a distributor to use spfi. you can run a carb ea81. you would have to swap out to the carb fuel pump, and wire it to the coil or IGN. connect the disty to the coil terminals. leave all the spfi stuff hooked up on the car itself, like the coil, and leave the intake plugs hang and tuck them away. if you took it upon yourself to fix the head gasket on the ea82, you could later put it in and have spfi. running with open timing belts makes service easier by the time you fix the engine off the car you will know how to fix it ever again

good deal. hey that 12mm i meant 14mm, but im sure you found it anyway:) yeah thats what i hate working on subarus after some jack-stick had it. glad that worked out for you

it will be located near the thermostat housing on an spfi, trace the vacuum to the carcoal canister, the rohtehr one is the egr solenod on carbs and turbos will be pretty much the same part

locate the thermo swithc on the radiator. if you take a jumper and short the car end of the terminal it shold kick the fan on. if the fan comes on, this circiot is working properly. you can take the hot side of the terminal and runit to a switch, and the other side of the switch to ground. anotehr way to do it would get a speaker wire, that is a wire with 2 wires run together, connect one end to the swithc, and the other end to both terminals on the plug, and if you can get the wires and the plug to fit on the thermo switch that would be good. this way tou can toggle the fan on, and if you forget about the fan the thermoswitch will turn it on. this would be a manual override for the stock circuit

teh clutch cablemay need tightening. the cable should be just snug enough to take the slack out of the throw out fork, and any additional turns to set the pedal height. turnng the clutch cable a few turns will do. but you want to check it every couple turns as a little bit of thread makes a lot of adjustment you will need a 10 and a 12mm wrench. turn the 10 nut to unlock it and adjust the 12mm nut. if the cable spins put a vise grop in the metal end of the sheath the throttle cable under the air cleaner there are a 12mm nut on either side of the mont. loosen one side and turn the other side to adjust it

if yo want to try the idea cut up a pop can and put it in the intake. and if you decide it doesnt work you could throw it out and not feel like a jack for spending money

the 85 xt and 871/2 xt have mpfi non turbo. the 87 is spider. but they are the same as turbo head minus the oil passage for the turbo, and the drainback tube but their dual portness matches the same as mpfi turbo, and an mpfi turbo car will run a non tirbo with the same intake and no turbo, use a mpfi na boot to connect the throttle to the maf like an spfi the mpfi block is like a tubo but has spfi pistons. it has the turbos case breather on the back the cams formpfi would probably bwe different, so an spfi block, mpfi non turbo heads and spfi cams tirh turbo intake would be a feasable build

if you cut the axle you cant get the touter end apart. the races in the outer end need to be broken to get all that out if you chop it short and dont get it apart you will have a little stub flying around and may cause balance problems or fly apart, then you would be stuck with having to take it out anyway to get it apart if you want to do it in right away go drive in sonme mud and sand, a ripped boot will ride all day, but once you get mud in there it wont last a week

http://www.warpthree.com/milesfox/88sedan http://www.warpthree.com/milesfox/87gl10 http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?p=264814&highlight=silver+fox#post264814 the car in this post is the same as 88sedan

gearing is most important with towng, a subaru will tow quite nicely, pulling other soobs or trailers the ea82 coilovers are a bit taller, the top has 2 bolts like the shock but they are wider apart. you would have to fabricare a mount of some sort on the top. by having coilovers you will have a double suspension, as the suspension tube ont he hatch is torsion bar and ea82's are coilover. this way it would accomodate the weight of the tongue on the trailer, and the car will ride much more stable in tow un tow the car will ride stiff in the back, not so much bumpy but as in cornering

yeah, you have to take the passenger side off to get the driver side belt off. the oil pump drives from the driver side belt. this is so if running open belts too dont forget about the shaft seal, behind the pulley. it can be difficult to remove without technique. you can wrap the rotor part in a rag and secure it in a vise to remove the nut and change the seal

the best thing to do is break it or wait till it to break. the outer end with no bearings is what you want. but if it breaks, stop and take it out right away. turn the wheel full lock and pop it out with a bar. thale the axle pin out and there you go, rwd! a broken axle that is removed will get the same effect as rwd. leave the other axle in if its good or till it breaks and you could replace the broken axle when you want 4wd again. that would be the easiest way to do it caution: if the axle breaks while driving you can put i into 4wd to get it off the road. the axle will ride but if you make any sharp turns it could pop out and bind up on the caliper bending it all up and ruining the brake line. take a punch, a hammer, and a crowbar with you and that will get you going again

you may have to cut and slice the connectors to the harness, and align the proper color wires and such. if you had a schematic for both years you could read what color wire is what function the pins can be popped out of the plastic connector, suppose you could do that swap the plastic connectors for the new dash on the old harness

if you have ea82 rims with the plasic center trings they will fit. ea81 and ea82 wagon spoke wheels are slightly different in their dimensions

make sure the wheels are straight when engage/disengaging 4wd. say you were driving in 4wd you will want to be traveling forward to disengage it. if your forward travel has created a bind. just go straigh backward. if you are on a loose surface you can try goosing the throttle or mini-rev-dropping the clutch to break a wheel loose and expell any bind

it may have pulled away from the back of the instrument cluster. i had replaced a cable on a 3 door and it wouldnt work, realigned the slot aon the tranny, i had to pull the instrument cluster to make sure the suare part was meshed and moved the car to check it before i put it back together

any kind of light you would use is rated for the bulb inside and the enclosure to house it. as long as you run a wire for the total amp draw, and properly fuse it there will be no risk for fire you could connect them to your own swithch if you chose, a relay optional depending on how many lights and how bright they are the dome on the roof, one of the wires is hot at all times, and the other hot with the door switches, the selection between on for the door and on all the time grounds through a screw to the body

does this happen at speed? say when cruising a steady speed, and letting off the gas, opposite of what yours is doing. this to me sounds like the DOJ is going bad, the inner side of the axle on the tranny. generally a bad doj will jerk the wheel and you feel it in the wheel either on acceleration or deceleration inspect the axle boots. the doj is fairly easy to service, take apart and clean, inspect and re-boot. once you have it apart you can consider if its useable or not. look for debris if they are present that is your problem, if the races are not chewed up you can re-grease them with moly EP grease (molybendum) and put a new boot and clamp on it

jims brat had all kinds of lights not working. we followed all the wiring and unplugged and cleaned the contacts, plugged them back in. by simply doing this everything works now

yeah just take of fthe outer belt cover, and take off the belt pulley. i find i best to loosen or tighten the bolte with the belt holding the pulley still. once you replace the seal you can slip the belt back onto the pulley, and bolt it on. this way thebelt maintains its tension you would not have to adjust the tension if you did not loosen it to begin with when tightening the bolts, snug them by hand with a 1/4 drive ratchet then 1/4 turn. be careful as they will twist off with too much torque

which is worse? Q 1. water in the oil as an excuse to make a 4wd conversion and engine build 2. 4wd conversion and engine build results in water in the oil? A 1. can be done in a few days if you get to crackin 2. this is what happens when you use diffrent heads

well depending if you want the car mobile right away, fix the head and get it running and driving. once it moves then you can contemplate a 5spd. you would want to use a turbo tranny, to match the axles, but you will have to swap on the vacuum solenoidt for the 4wd machanism a dual rance has a mechanical 4wd lever in the car, but to swap to it you will need 23 spline axles. as far as turbo fatness axles, you can use axles for an 3spd auto turbo, 2wd or 4wd. the axles will be the same diameter and have the same doj but the spline is correct for a dual range but if you can find the rx full time dual range that will go right in the rear difr would be the same for a turbo tranny but a dual range needs a dual range to go with. you will need a driveshaft, tranny crossmember and bolts, and a clutch/flywheel. these will be the same as ANY 4wd 5spd ddonbt forget the pedall assembly too!

having a dual range tranny, and a 3.9 diff, you would need an lsd diff with the 3.9 ratio also. but there is no 3.9 lsd, but lsd came as 3.7 gear. in order for you to use an lsd you would have to swap an lsd carrier onto a 3.9 diff, or vice versa swapping a 3.9 ring gear onto a lsd carrier. anyway it can be done, but welding it may be more practical. with a welded diff, you could pull off a rear axle for stree and install it right quick for some baja'n