MilesFox

just take off the hill holder cable, and thats it

if you get the drum off, tou can use a hammer to knock the stud thru from the front, so it falls out the back. if you get a new stud put it thru the drum, bolt the wheel to the drum, and as you tighten the lug nut it will pop the stud in place

got it at hot topic. some 3 bucks, the price tag is on the rear view mirror not so much this time, do you see an orange stripe? the only orange is the soob logo on the back, and the middle of the grille(had to do it!) the orange of the turn lenses and the cab lites is enough i may put a stripe along the side below the windows, but it would be white, with SUBARU ALLIANCE lettering in the stripe on the rear 1/4 trogdor, you should know about the big orange 7 on the hood. just got to get some letters to spell SEVEN, i would have to paint the vinyl letters orange for the rest of you, the SEVEN stickers, the one on the gauge cluster, i have, like, a whole big duct-tape-roll of them, by the 100's. yeah tom, that is the same car. everyone at my moms got a kick once they realized its the same car that sat behind the pole barn all winter

try a thicker oil next change, 15-w40. if that dont cure it consider the pump seals. dont worry about the pump itself

its about time i got some new pictures. at my moms with her digi since the car was originally at and the key didnt work. there is a pushbutton. but i have to start it under the hood, have to figure out danny's wiring

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installment3

installment 2

ok here goes, like the 5th attempt(resize and all)

dam this attatchments.....well the files are too big i will have to come back

88 spfi swd at to 4wd 5spd d/r conversion, 204k mi, new seals and timing belts, chaisaw bar oil.. this car belonged to my buddy danny, he got it for 200 bucks with an oil leak and a knock. he put new parts all aover the motor, we converted to 4wd. the interior has been converted to 2 tone brown on blue, partially due to the insides cathing on fire welding the carrier mount. anyway this car has seen a lot of baja'n, danny sold it to his brother till he wrecked it, busting the window and door, and bending a lower control arm. danny took the motor to put in a loyale. since then i have aquired the car 2 monts and 4 thousand miles ago, using a motor i got from an 85 at wagon, putting new seals on it, and piecing enough parts together like a distributor, radiatopr and coil, since these were missing i have also replaced a fender, all the doors, and added a gl-10 trunk lid with rack. danny had already installed gl-10 seats and yes, of course, the back seats fold down this is the same car seen here: www.warpthree.com/milesfox/88sedan

hmm. the sender must be whack. i took the one off my sedan for an aftermarket unit, i can bring it when i come back from ohio.

was it oily film? if so maybe its pcv related. check all the hoses and make sure they are not clogged up

the skinny hosw will connect to a tee on the passenger side intake, the tee wil lbe the samme one to the vac modulator for an automatic. it runs to the vac canister on the firewall. the hose changes diameter half way up and has a plastic fitting between the diameters

i was over there yesterday painting the sedan and noticed the intake bolt wasn not tight. we removed it pulling the motor to take off the ground wire. i pointed that out and vincent tightened it, said the wire runs to the temp sensor. but i dont know if that fixed the problem, but the syptoms sounded more electrical than mechanical vincent, how is she doing now? hope that fixed ya!

sorry i forgot to mention, my measurements were at the wheel arches in line with the axle nut

it would be easier to pull the motor as the 3at is behemoth to try and wrestle out the bottom of the car my buddy got this legacy that has the torque converter seal, fixed that and the tranny runs perfect i once had a rare 85 turbo traction wagon with a leak, delivered pizza and ran cases of atf. put ti in the shop with 120 down payment till they tell me i need a new tranny and axle splines were messed up. man if i only knew what i know now about soobs back then. anyway its an easy fix as far as one seal goes but the motor and tranny have to come apart from eachother to get to it

if you and a buddy pull the motor by hand, its easier to take off theintake and ac/alt, makes the motor half as light. a long block alone you could just about chuck across the room. a short block byitself one person could hurl it like a medicine ball! there is a tab on the casting near the drain plug on the tranny, you can jack it up there, the oem jack will work but you will have more control with a hydraulic putting the motor back in the input shaft sometimes will hang on the pilot bearing, and you may have to wiggle the motor on. if you can get the bottom studs to poke thru and start a nut, and use the longer starter bolt on the passenger side to draw the bellhounsing together, coner at a time so its even

jim (66subaru) has them on an 88 gl-10 turbo 4at used-to-be-air suspension, converted to coilover height adjastable the car sat at 25 3/4" inches on the front, cranking the struts all the way brought it up to 26 1/2. we got 3/4 inch heigt on the front full adjustment range but also i think the geometry of the knuckle or the lwer control arm may be different with air ride, as the whole rig sits lower than the 2wd to 4wd conversion dl wagon

if you are going with a weber, it will be easier to strip the emissions by removing the intake. all the metal vacuum lines are of one manifild, the whole deal is held on by a few 10mm bolts with phillips heads in them. you can remove all the metal lines and plug off any fittings on the manifold itself make sure you leave connected the skinny hose from the canister on the passenger firewall, leave it connectoed to the motor as this controls the heater vent select, cruise, and pushbutton 4wd, and of course, the vacuum advance on the disty, just connect it directly to the manifold or the carburetor

ok this is common where the marks are assumed up and tdc. i have seen people leave their soob in the shop and pay $$$ to have the mechanic install them wrong and and say bent valves there are a series of 3 marks that means all the cyl's in th middle of the bore. line up the driver side cam first. rotate crank 360. lune up passenger cam. rotate 3 60 again. now rotate untill you see the tdc mark and align the disty ti #1. its the fartehst back terminal to the right of the screw, the rotor will point at the hill holder if you never removed the disty then leave it there where its at. read this and you cant go wrong http://www.warpthree.com/milesfox/subaru/service/timingbelt.htm

the blue wire will be live with the acc position. connect your constant to the green and your memory to the blue wire

when lifting a soob, either your own build or a kit install, you are making a body lift. all the suspension mounting points are spaced evenly away from the body, so therefore the suspension geometry remains the same, just 3 or so inches away from the body

just have them fabricate a piece of sheet metal between the top of the pipe and the bottom of the axle boot. the axle boot is important to keep the heat off of it. also, see if any of these exhausty shops have header wrap, foily fiberglass material that can be wrapped around the pipe itself, like they would use on v-8 headers

lighting should be designed around your driving environments i have a lighting system i prefer: fog light for fog, inclement weather. they work good on a full moon and parking lights only. makes for stealth mode run with no headlights use fogs when you need to see, use the parking brake no flash brake lights bumper mounted lights, 100 watts. for long distance light, straight down the road late night county road baja'n. mine is on a pushbutton swithch but a floor swithc like older fords would be ideal for these roof mounted (2), 55 watts, to shine immediately in front of the car, as if tying up a tow strap or if you are in grass or weeds that cover the headlights. not good in rain or snow, mount them far enough back(b pillar) so thay dont glare on the windshield alley lights to shine down the side ov the car, for baja'n down atv trails or any other use immediately around the car anus lihgts. for reversing or tow straps, in the woods, bright lights behind you... mine are on a switch, the car is 2wd at to 4wd 5spd conversion, no reverse light. but if the reverse was hooked up it would be like samo has his you can have a master swithc that would be between the battery and the lights' circuits. so you can turn them all off at once or to disable them. you can put an ammeter in line to measure the amp draw on the alternator for the klighting circuit(s)