MilesFox

the crank angle sensor(disty) tells the ecu what the rotation of the engine is, the ecu sends the signal as a pulse for the spark to the ign amplifier on the coil bracket(transistor thingy) and the amplifier is what breaks the magnetic fielsd in the coil inducing the spark

all 4wd ea81 and ea82 came with skid plates. the holes are there on 2wd models, and ea81 and ea82 plates are the same. go find some 4wd at the junkyard and grab the plate and its 4 bolts. if any are not present on 4wd's someone may have taken it off to change the oil/pan gasket

a mud type traction would allow wheelspin enough at a high rpm to get things moving so long as it has a bite. if it could get a momentum on the fork lift 6000 lbs will start to roll i put a hitch on the sedan and it tows quite nicely in 2wd. i towed another subaru to michigan, got into some slick roads, 4 lo and hi maintain good control. mind a vehicle in tow can push you around, sideways down town stay on the gas and pull out of it

sorry i cant help you all my expertise lies in spray paint, rustoleum, krylon and the like i couldnt say in quarts but it takes about 5 cans to spray primer a soob. one for the top, one for the hood, 2 each for both sides of the car and the last to use between cans for horizontal surfaces(you want the can upright, use half, get new can, use the half cans for vertical surfaces)

if its an RX it will, but most likeley not, it will be single range 4wd. if it were an 89 it would most likely have one as standard issue being an 87 it will be compatible with all turbo and mpfi 87 and up as far as harness and ecu is concerned if its a gl-10 it would have a digi dash, although it could not be a gl-10 gl10 giveaways are most likely a sunroof, a rack or lip spoiler on the trunk lid, and a molding on the orner of the back doors

the oil pump is held on by 5 bolts, it is belt driven and nothing connects internally with the motor there are 3 seals, on ebehind the pulley, one on the rotor, and the mickey mouse mounting seal the rotor will have a B stamped on one side it faces the inside of the motor the timing belts will have to come off, the crank pulley and plastics will have to come off to get to it, unless of course you bust off th plastic and do away with it! anyway the work can be done without taking out the radiator, but you can if you chose for more room. if your car has no AC you can work on it thru the grille!

knock out all the maintenance now and youre good to go. keep oil in it and the bottom end will last over 300,000 miles. if you are used to junk rump roast domestics throw everythig you know about cars out the window and welcome to SUBARU

the loyale most likely has a broken timing belt. its possible the guy installed new ones and didnt line them up right, and therefore thinks it has bent valves which it wont(non interference) the loyale should be easy to fix if you can get ahold of it, the legact probably has a torque converter seal leak and lost its fluid, wont go

seeing them alaska prices may be a bit more than the lower 48. i have seen ball joints fgor 17 at napa, pads should be about 15 for a set, bearings around 20 a piece, the seals maybe 6-8 bucks apiece anyway the "adjustment for the bearing" the bearings are pressed in, and a re a ball type bearing, so there is no side load say like that of a roller bearing like on a rwd front spindle the tighter you make the axle nut the more it seate thebearing races, the internal parts of the bearings still spin freeley, and the axle is pressed thru the inner race. a loose axle nut can cauus the rotor to rub on the caliper bracket. a pulsating pedal will designate a warped rotor or the same as a loose axle nut inspect the brake pads and look for uneven wear, and tighten the axle nut if she's loose there are 2 washers on the axle nut, one is cone shaped and futs into the hub, the other one is flat but has a curve, install it so the curve side faces the axle, so that it squeezes down on the outer edge of the cone washer. sometimes these washers are on backward and the nut doesnt hold torque

maybe like a clicking sound? check all the boots on your axles and see if any are ripped or have holes in them a bad cv axle will pop and click when turning a power steering pump will make a whining sound when you turn the wheel all the way

maybe you broke an axle instead. a clutch will start to go out, not just up and go out. a 2wd if an axle breaks it wont go. set the parking brake and put the car in gear. look under the hood and see if any one of the inner side of the axles are turning. if so that axle is broken

it looks like an xt but i havent seen an ff-1 lens. i would think the old scool ones are in the grille

i wonder if the er27 injector is like the legacy injecter. afterall the xt6 is like an in between ea and ej platoform as if ej parts were prototyped as xt6

where did you place your jacks when you had it apart? subarus have a fixed alignment you didnt undo the tie rods did you? anyway a radius rod that is bent or is loose will allow the wheel to pull on that side

you will have to pry out the old seal to replace it. it wont hurt anything but it could allow contaminates to get into the wheel bearings the bearings will last as long as the seals do, so if you got a bad seal replace it before it ruins the bearings but you may as well do the bearings if its gonna be apart, for peace of mind

an ea82 will fit the same. use an ea82 flywheel or have yours drilled out for the bolt holes the only fitment issue is you have to remove the disrtributor to install the motor, so it clears the master cylinder. then put it back in and there you be!

it fell out of the outer bearing seal. i assume you found this after rmoving the rotor? anyway its what holds the seal tight against its sealing surface you should replace that seal and inspect the bearings

for each side, get a whole axle, an inner and outer bearing(both the same) and an inner and outer bearing seal(both different) may as well do ball joints and brake pads too while you are there or you can rebuild the axles yourself, get boots and clamps. the inner side can be disassembled, but the outer side take special proceduure. you would have better luck with new axles, unless you know how to rebuild them

you can spend less anfix your seals on the existing motor. they will last as long as as a new motor would until its seals will go out. a new motor will need work down the road anyway. for 2000 dollars you can have your existing motor all fixed up and more

yeah 85 had mpfi and mpfi non turbo. 86 2wd had spfi, its the same as 87 and up but the intake harness connectors are different, and one of the pcv hoses goes to the air box instead of the intake boot it has the 85-86 style grille and bumper, but since the mirrors are on the corner instead of on the door itself, that would make it an 86 its probably sitting there with a broken timing belt and nothing more

we changed the wheel bearings and ball joints. actually had to change the whole knuckle because the ball joint bolts were bad, one stripped off and the other one broke. anyway when the axles came off, the one on the passenger side, the axle stub came off the tranny, missing its spring clip. same with the front axle the outer end came apart as well, but i was able to whack it back together(so i guess the front halfs DO caome apart!) anyway we xhanged the axles as well and the car still wanders to the right

check your front diff oil, geatr oil it is , dipstick on the top center of the tranny also look at the driveshaft u joint, my car made a vibrating noise that sometimes would carry over to a whine near the tranny, it would chang4 between 2 and 4wd undill one day it got loud all of a sudden and failed on the highway. i thought the rear diff or axle exploded but the driveshaft u-joint busted, so i kept going till i tied the driveshaft with a coat hanger. got 1000 miles on it like this but im fixing it today

you'll find the timing belt procedure here http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/article.php?a=24 if you have the motor on out of the car, or if you decide to run open belts(no covers) you can use your bare hands to take the slack out of the belts instead of a spanner make sure you follow the crank rotation schedule in the procedure, it is not necessary to remove the disty, even if you have the cam tower off for a re-seal its wise to adjust the tension after a few 1000 miles as the belts will break in and stretch a little oem belts woud be the best, i have seen other maftermarket belts that looked to be decent in quality as well. its recommended that the belts should be changed every 60,000 miles, but the belts *can* last over 100,000 miles if they arent oily from leaky seals and the car is driven regularly. i have seen a 130,000 mile motor with its original factory belts as always, if you have the motor apart enough to do the timing belts you may as well do the engine seals like the crqnk, cams, and oil pump, and water pump. suppose these seals are good and dont need fixed now, if you opt to go with open belts, you could fix htem later without having to remove near as much stuff, that is crank pulley and dipstick if you were to do the water pump and oil pump later any time i post about timing belts i always suggest running open belts. i myself and others have this setup and have had no problems over many 1000's of miles. some will say it saves you time if you break a belt to fix it(20 min rather than 2hours) and some will argue that it poses a risk for belt failure from debris. its a matter of opinion i guess. the only reported failure was from a loose rag under the hood getting caught around the crank pulley, and yet on my car i lost my oil cap just to find it riding on the belt near the water pump 1000 miles later, showing the belts are not too sensitive to debris. so these scenarios reflect both extremes of opinions anyway good luck and enjoy

aside from being a performance build, i would leave it the way thT IT IS FOR A DAILY DRIVER. OOPS I SNEEZED AND HIT THE caps lock anyway it shouldnt be much hassle taking the pistons out to check the rings. but its one of those things where you could just leave it alone, and if you are going to get into it a little bit you may as well get into all of it and do a complete rebuild taking advantage o the opportunity

coolant pushing out may be a sign of a blowing head gasket, blowing combustion gasses into the cooling system. running it hot would be aggrqvating the issue. the fact she got hot to begin with may have been a blown head gasket to begin with what i would say is buckle down and fix everything that could go wrong at onece. im sure its exasperating to fix one thing to have something else go wrong, especially if you are fixing what doenst need fixed and overlooking what does. dont trash this car it will be a good one for you, but it may need a head gasket now you have gotten it hot, its not much to try to fix it yourself, less than 100 bucks in parts if you go about it the right way do some more reading here there are ways around a head gasket job that will get you by, or even eliminate the head gasket as a problem. i would suggest taking care of the coolant leaks right away, and run staight water if your climate doesnt get below freezing till you solve your problem. if in fact its a head gasket on its way out you may be able to get away with block sealer. i have tried it and it worked till i went flogging the pyoss out o my ride with no fans anyway good luck, dont throw your car into the ocean!