MilesFox

The other day i tried to fit 03 outback rotors to a 98 forester. although they both appear to use the same caliper, the forester rotor was smaller. I would imagine the forester, 98's and older, have similar dimension to the turbo legacy of first gen, and the 00 and up has the larger rotors with rs, wrx, and 2.5 subarus

1. I had used the cometic hybrid gaskets on this one. I have matched both he original ej25d and ej22e head gaskets to know where to make the hole to modify an oem gasket for this application. 2. I will not be re-using the ej25d block with the rusty cylinders. I have another complete ej25d original to the forester for a block. I will be re-using the the ej25d heads. If i put this frankenmotor together again, i might as well swap it into my legacy, and use the legacy 2.2 engine in the forester for the woman. I will likely consider modifying an oem gasket if there is a preferred one for the application, unless i can re-use the cometics, and i have also heard about cometif gasket failures. Perhaps the hg failure is just an ej25 thing by itself.

I should have spare relays laying around, although some of them i have had for ages. No luck with thetm at the salvage yard unless it's 90's and later legacy impreza if they have the round relays.

being half rusted away, when bending the pins straight, they usually break off. So when you go to pull it out from the loop side, that part breaks away. what is left between the castles just shears away when you turn the nut. Speaking of rusty nuts: (language warning)

Possibly the fuel pump has seized fom sitting. try tapping it with a hammer. if you need to replace it, a generic ford in-line pump will do it.

the front diff is broken. replacing the trans is best. repairing it is too expensive. findin another good 3at would be harder than swapping a 5 spd. A donor car will give you all the parts you need. All of the parts will be bolt up with no mods. These swaps have been documented many times if you find them in the search. google brings results from USMB as their search function is more productive with results vs the forum's search.

Pretty simple to do. probably the most difficult part is removing the crank pulley and the timing belt covers bolts. If you are generally experienced in auto repairs, you may find this one novel. Be sure to complete the 360 degree crank rotation after installing the first belt before installin ghe 2nd belt to keep timing in phase. you'll find the vids easy eoung by searching the internet for 'ea82 timing belt' or 'art of subaru maintenance'. The vids have been posted in the forums about as often as the subject of ea82 timing belts comes up.

the cotter pin alone will not hod torque. the spring washer with the convex side agains the nit is what hlds the axle nut torque. without that, the drive torque will walk it loose. Here in the midwest, where there is rust, i usually don't bother with the cotter pin. usually they are too rusty to get out, so i shear them off by taking off the axle nut with a socket

Point to consider. my rx back in the day was similar to your symptom. I just wanted to confirm the location before i start pulling interior pieces. Thanks Gloyale for the location. Your reference to a green and white wire triggers my mental image of the schematic. thanks

if the cone washer has a lip on the big end , it should be replaced. the concaave spring washer should not be worn. Torque axle nut to 145 ft-lb, or whatever that translate to in n/m

The heater fan worked only one time in my 3door coupe, when i first got it. Even the turn flasher and wiper relay is slow to respond because the car had sat for a while when i got it. The resistor coils are intact, and the fan sitch did work. once had this problem in an 87 rx coupe back in the day. Where is this relay? i looked behind the glove box. All i found was what i believe is the pressure switch. I understand the schematic for this circuit. I have not done any voltage tests. I have had the dashboard out when i built it, but didn't think of the blower fan.

I drove my car for the first time in months. I made my plate legal and it will now be my daily driver until i get my motorcycle out. This year she will get a little more put together with bells and whistles.

sounds like a grounding issue. the fog lamps cancel with the high beam. something must have shorted causing the fox lite to ground through the i beam, but the high beam is ot grounding. the lighting circuits ground thru the switch. suspect replacing the switching in the steering column. I take it the alternator was voltage spiking. good luck.

Speaking of compression, as to build up another clone to this engine, i sourced some part numbers from subaru dealer. all of the 2.5's list one part number , which is superseded by another part number (11044AA633, and then there is the 2005 sti gaskets and its part number (11044AA642. which ones should i consider? my failed engine has cometic hybrid gaskets. Come to think of it, i never considered ea85. I would have to go across the other end of town for it. I don't know if the fuel injectors and fuel lines will like it, though. The forester has over 250,000 miles.

This is a 97 outback ej25d block with 95 legacy outback ej22e heads running in a 98 forester, which ecu is original to the original ej25d which this engine replaced. I have the original ej25d engine form the forester with bad hg's that i intended to put together. I have decided to replace this engine in the forester with a stock ej22e from a 96 legacy as a cost effective immediate fix, and then once i have parts, build the other engine to replace the legacy motor with all the goodies. For now, the legacy is retired and i transferred the plate onto my 3door so that i have a legal car and an engine for the forester. for those of you who have seen my 'art of subaru maintenance: ej series' vids, this is the motor used in the videos. This engine did have rusty cylinder walls when it was assembled, and i blame the failure on that plus going back and forth between low octane gas (woman driver)

EA82's use the same tank for both 2wd and 4wd. but the driveshaft mount and the captive nuts for the moustache bar are not present on a 2wd body.

I am trying to figure out if this is an internal issue, or a head gasket issue. 1 year old motor, daily driven. This is the woman's car, she reported stalling at stops and random misfiring, and an instance of the AT oil light flashhing. The whole time we have owned this car, the airbag light has remained on, but it went away for a moment while acting up. The stumbling issue has been random, not always reproduceable. So i thought i would swap out the MAF to discoer this:

There shouldbe holes in the back of the crossmember that you can insert a screwdriver or a 1/4" extension through to get to the back bolts. As is the case with ea82's

Take the pitch bar out and undo the engine mount studs. You can jack up the engine by the trans a few inches before the exhaust hits the frame, allowing enough room to maneuver the oil pan out. The oil pan will be a tight fit between the engine mounts.

I did this to my 94 legacy wagon. They came form an 00 legacy outback. From what i understand, 90-94 turbo legacy, and impreza rs are the sme as well as 2.5 equipped soobs

I would suspect the ecu temp sensor or a crank or cam sensor before the fuel pump. You can eliminate the fuel pump by trial if you do this: if the car is not starting, give it some starting fluid. If she still does not fire, suspect the sensor. If it fires right away, suspect fuel. I would replace the ECTS out of routine anyway as it is fairly easy and cheap to do

I have done it the other way. I made jumper wires with female spades to cross pins to the right wire as the plugs themselves were different. The alternator will bolt in the same.

The dual piston does use a larger brake rotor, so you will have to swap the caliper bracket with the rotor to clear. You will require 15" wheels to clear. Although it may be possible to just swap on the caliper itself onto the existing bracket. I guess that is the answer you are looking for, but i am only speculating.

Pack some grease inside the knuckle so that the spacer can float on it in the center of the hub.

Try adjusting the cable so there is about a millimeter of play. Be sure to undo the hill holder cable first, then re-adjust it after the cluth. You just may be due for a lutch anyway, but try that first.