MilesFox

sounds lile a loose axle nut, but you said you tiightened them. but since they were loose and driven on it may have worn a wheel bearing now they are tight. tighten them again and if the noise is still there investigate the wheel bearings. are the bearings new when you did the axle or are they the old ones?

about 27.5 last calculations, stock motor and coil, cherry bomb at the y and straight 2 inch pipe. 65-70 mph average speed, that is 60 for some stretches and 75 for other stretches, fort wayne to columbus and back i have a different exhaust setup now and am in the middle of another calculation, fixed a wheel bearing and such, hoping for 30 mpg

for 1500 bucks you can find yourself a turbo ea82 subaru, or the parts to swap a turbo into yours say you find a turbo car already you can part yours out for the 4wd tranny ansd such. so many options to explore....

bust it all off and do away with it. or at least tkae off the plastic and leave it off. cause invitabley you will have to do timing belts and engine seals. it will save you HOURS of work to do these repais witht eh absence ov covers. no reliability issues. a 3 hour timing belt job can be done with 2 sockets and 10 minutes without the covers i serviced a car and seen that corner pf the cover that overlaps the water pump was broken off by someone else. no harm in doing so. i suggest taking all of them off, do the timing belts while you are there, and remove the inner plastics as well

its like hauling off to another state no more than a few days from putting a motor together into a car that hadnt run in a year. fun!

www.warpthree.com/milesfox/subaru/service/timingblet.htm print this out and take it with you! easy instructions for on-site repair of the timing belts

also the outer rim of the inner circumfrence of the nut is staked, you will have to bend it back out before you turn it. so far i haent got any loose myself... try a propane torch, let heat and cool, use pb blaster, do this a few times to worlk it loose

the spring is there tp oretty much take the slack out of the belt as you install it. once you tighten the tensioner bolts the spring is just there, the tension is on the bolts. tou can push down on the tensioner pulley the same as you tighten it as well

i would use the spfi or carb cams, as they have valve overlap for scavenging. wheras a turbo cam has little overlap otherwise boost would blow out the exhaust if you used turbo cams for n/a it would lug great pulling trailers at 2000 rpm but would be a dog at higher rpm. it would be ideal for an open header(no y pipe) for lower rpm power carb and spfi would have different rpm curves. right now i am running spfi cams and heads with a carb motor i would say get some numbers betwen carb and spfi cams. i think one is a 4500 rpm cam and one is a 5500 rpm cam, but dont know which is which kep in mind a carb motor has less compression than spfi, so i wonder if that would factor into the cam duration? spfi has 9.5 compression same as n/a mpfi just my suggestions but the turbo cam in a carb motor i know about from my own experimenting

there are an inner and outer bearing for 4wd. you would need a special socket to remove the retainer on the back side to drive out the old bearing with a drift. i take it your car is 4wd. 2wd would hae a spindle and conventional bearings. anyway the vortex (xt6 in usa) although is a 5 lug set up, the rear suspension is like that of the ea82 leone (loyale usa) the front is like the leone with the caliper, but a legacy knuckle will fit, but you will lose the front parking brake

well if you dont have big dollars to spend start witht he basics: star with the exhaust. ditch the stock muffler and run your own lengths of pipe. on my car i hacve a cherry bomb immediately after the y pipe flange, and 2 inch back to a 80 deg bend out the side, where it expands 2o 2.5 inch for sound. idles quiet but has a deep mellow tone, snarls when revved! a little on the anti-rice as far as sound is concerned this retained the in town driveability but lets the rpms open a little and improves highway driing, economy and throttle response with the exhaut opened up you can open the intake a little, that is either cut the bottom of the air box out or go with a cone filter. i guess the auto zone "throttle body adapter" in the import performance aisle will fit the subaru MAF and get a hotter coil, an accel super stock will do, and gap your plugs out to .050, and use quality wires. advance the timing up a few degrees, watch for pinging, and run a mid to premium grade gas. this is no big step but you will notice it and you will optimise the stock engine setup, and if you go aftermarket for cams and such at least you have a good base to support it

try checking or replacing the ignition amplifier module. this sevice takes the signal from the ecu to fire the coils. its located centrally on the firewall and is flat and somewhat squareish triangle shaped, wide flat plug in with several wires

20 deg is for spfi and 87 and up turbos. carb calls for 8 deg but upping the timing to between 8 and 20 is good for carbs. the timing is so low more for emissions reasons than for the engine parameters

HA! tell me about it. mcdonalds trash on the console wouldn help matters either. almost burnt my sedan to the ground welding it. hence the bracket instead, easy to make!

i believe the hill holder came on 82 and later manual trannies. no there is no electrical connection for this device the brake lights work off the pedal switch. anyone who would run into a stopped car because the brake lights are not on doenst need a drivers license.

my experience with a bas ecu temp sensor is the car would run fine when cold, but once she warmed up the car would run like crap, and if it were stalled it would have to sit for a good half hour before it would start again this part cross references with nissan 240 sx if you cant find a listing for subaru. get the brown top version

sometimes when the ignition amplifier goes bad it will fail when it warms up, let it cool and is ok. the ignition amplifier is the little transister looking piece on the coil bracket itself. try your luck with a junkyard one and see if that helps another problem of stalling or running bas when warm is the coolant temp sensor for the ecu. its located near the turbo on the back of the intake and has a brown clip like that of the injectors. if you cant find a replacement, the part cross references with nissan 240 sx and is the brown one. auto zone may not have it listed for 87 rx or for subaru for that matter but the same part should be in stock for nissan

just to make a point on the contrary, the carrier bearing is not a load carrying bearing, does not take torque load, it just supports the articulation point of the driveshaft one could spend for a single piece driveshaft if they are concerned about carrier bearing failure, on the other hand, a replacement at the junkyard could be had for cheap. the front half contains the bearing. the front half will be specific to the tranny so a replacement would have to come off another 5spd 4wd car, either dual range, single range, or full time 4wd

what motor do you have, turbo, spfi, or carb? there are 3 factory ac setups, is the compressor square or round, and is the alternator inboard or outboard?

is it an automatic? what is the timing set at? maybe you can open the exhaust a little and bump the timing a degree or 2 going with the accel coil will allow you to gap yout plugs out for bigger spark. stock gap is between .040-.045, you could go .050

85 and 86 trimis glued on. later models afe fastened with plastic clips. you can glue them on, ot take them off and clean up the goo and have smooth doors woth no holes, unlike the later models

tire imbalances will be noticed at varying speeds. sometimes you will feel it at 50 mph and it goes away at 60 just to return at 70 mph try rotating the wheels front to back, or swithc the front wheels around and see if the vibration is on the other side. doing this will prove or eliminate a wheel imbalance also mud or snow in the rim will throw the wheel off balance so check inside the rims too

if you put 5spds in an ea81, use the ea82 5spd 2-piece driveshaft as it will be the proper length for that tranny you will have to make a carrier bearing mount, the carrier will mount in the same location on the ea82 body as it does on an ea82. i found this out by making a carrier mmount for 5spd in a 2wd ea81, and the same mount carried over and fit the same in an ea82 2wd to 4wd conversion get a 12" length of flat steel, about 2 in wide. make 2 holes 10" apart on-center to the 12" pice. get another flat piece of steel about 1 in wide, make 2 4" lenghts and drill holes on the last inch of them. bolt the short pieces to the carrier bearing. you will notice the carrier tab on one side is higer than the other, so put ne piece on top of one side and one on the bottom of the other side so they are even. wels this assembly to the 12" piece. these pieces once bolted to the carrier bearing will be 6" apart on-center to the main piece. weld them to the top side as it will be within the tranny tunnel, the outer ends of the main piece will fit flat against the body under the floor, just before the tranny tunnel curves up with the mounts bolted to the carrier, install the driveshaft and butt it against the body of the car, drill through the holes thru the floor and install the bolts! the bolts will come through aright in the corner of the tranny tunnel and the rail perpendicilar to the car under the seats. use a 1 1/2" washer insid ethe car as it will squish down and hold the bolt head still, so you can torque it down this design is very simple and will fit exactly the same on bioth ea81 and ea82 bodies. the first one i made for an ea81 and the same part fit on jims 88 dl wagon i amde another one to the described dimensions and it fit on alleyboy's 2wd touring wagon very simple the first one was eyeballed and the 2nd one was to the dimensions. they both fit the same and these dimensions are easy to make and fit, if you have a welder, a hacksaw, and a drill. the steel you can find at a hardware store for both pieces you shouldnt have more than 15 bucks in metal another note, the ea82 at and 5spd driveshafts are different lenghts. it is the fron thalf from the tranny to the carrier that are different lengths according to each tranny. the carrier between both will be in the same location relative to the car the rear half is the same length between both, so if you ever had a bad u-joint you can replace the rear half from ANY 4wd ea82

maybe the tire is out of balance. you will feel this in the steering wheel. try rotating the tires around front to back and see if this changes anything, and this will prove a wheel imbalance

the recommended fluid for 3at's is dextron/mercon type II or III. same stuff that goes in the power steering i have seen dextron/mercon type IV thay have out nowadays for newer cars, but i dont know if this would work. i would think the newer is backward compatible with type II and III, and may be a better choice. but you would want to get some opinions on that