MilesFox

i vote for pulling the motor. thgere is a way to do it without pulling either, i have done this once: take out the radiator and undo the heater hoses, unbolt the engine from the tranny. raise the tranny by a jack so the motor mounts come away from the crossmember, and use the hoist to suspend the motor and pull it forward, you can get a degree of separation without having to disconnect everything else, separate far enough to get the pressure plate out and you are good to go. its kind of tight i would recommend this procedure for someone experienced in subaur clutches, but if it gets to be a pain just disconnect everything else and pull the motor out since the motor will be out do the rear main seal, and any other seals on the motor if you wish while its out of the car givent the opportunity to use a lift and a tranny jack i would do it from underneath, but his involves draining the gear oil and some may leak out the driveshaft, can be messy a bit

as far as wagons go i would preger an ea82 wagon say over an impreza wagon as far as using it as a wagon goes. the ea82 wagons have a flat floor that is even with the gate opening, the back seats fold down FLAT and you can haul quite a bit in back and load it down till you cant fit anything in ther eno more. i can tell you myself you can hul a pair of motors, a transmiisson, a full set of wheels and a full suspension in the back of a wagon, plut put stuff on the roof! i would suggest a gl model with dual range, as the 4wd machanism is manual and not electro/vacuum operated like single ranges. if fuel injection is what you want look for 86-88 wagons for the dual range

find some brown interior pieces and mix them accordingly with the blue it will make the interior feel richer. nice seats i like the 85-86 style gl-10 seats my car has brown interior, i am using door panels like in your car with brown tops and handle, brown pocket on the door. the brown carries over to select other pieces to tie it all in. blue interior and brown carpet, blue console with brown shifter boot and parking brake lever, brown lower trim under the dashboard

yeah that would work too, whichever would be easiest to fabricate, as long as you keep the theory in mind with your design

yeah once you remove the roll pins you can shoo the PB in the hole where it will get to the splines. whack with a 3 lb hammer, rotate whack rotate whack sounds like you goit it but PB is magical stuff!

assuming your car is already a single range 5spd, the tranny is a straight bolt on, the same flywheel,clutch parts, driveshaft will work on the new tranny, you will want the shifter console plate to go with. if your car is non turbo then everything else will stay as it is, axles and diff, but if you are going from a turbo single range then you will have to swap the front axles and rear diff

refer to this post, there is an example of a dual exhaust there as well, demonstrating an x-over as skip mentions, and some exhaust theory http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=30262&highlight=dual+exhaust

oh yeah the haynes book refers to the right side of the vehicle as if you were in the car facing forward. so passenger side is the right side of the car the haynes book can be tricky to follow as it is translated from british terms i do believe. make sure you read all the text thoroughly. poeple will argue the haynes book is no good but i find it very useful, and a lot of the diagrams are out of the FSM

turn the disty to the right to advance it

sounds very good. way to go!

ok i say saturday, u pick the time, since you will be finding the off road. i can be ther on friday to start out. lets keep sunday as a back up day if we cant all make it beforehand friday night

the ea81 mpfi should be compatible electrically with 85-86 ea82 mpfi components, the maf, disty, knock control, ecu. just so long as you get the wiring inb between. its speculated to be plug-and-play between ea81 mpfi and 85-86 ea82 mpfi

ok iluvdirt is planning for some campground/off roading site, we need to know who is definate on showing at this moment. lets post a head count. once we know what to expect accomodations will be met accordingly MilesFox 4x4 conversion sedan, 87 rx trash3door thealleyboy alleywagon '04 86subaru 86 brat weber tomrhere iluvdirt noahdl88 cissubaru myoss feece and possibly zanny dook trashwagon 6 and the implaza anyone else add yourself to the list. any of you on the list if you find you cant make it post hre before memorial day. remember the meet is all weekend, with the off roading on mainly on saturday oh yeah post what soob you will be bringing

sounds like you scored some points with the ol' lady. keep her happy and remind her that the back seats fold down:banana:

yeah sorry about the clutch, it came from a junkyard xt i did notice the heat marks. hearing the disengage issue made me think pressure plate related. tom offered his set first maybe we just went too fast its like building legos, you build something big, but the little pieces keep falling off. but eventually you get it all put together. i know how "project daily driver" can be but its much easier when you have more than one car. if you had 3 cars you would find yourself swapping the same part between whatever car you will be driving for the day.

yo my car does the same thing, but dim on both hi and lo. been too lazy to check it out. ol skip saves the day. where are the relays? you think i would know already being miles fox, but like i said im lazy..like a fox

turbo heads, as they are dual parot you will need them to match the intake. you can bolt up a turbo to the single port heads on the exhaust side, but you will have to fab up all the ductwork and good luck with one injector running boost with high compression may present issues. if you are going high compression you will want mild boost, as the compression will make up for the low end power not to say you cant turbo an spfi but you will have to do your home work if you want it to work reliably i suggest using turbo cams also as the n/a cams would have too much valve overlap and all your boost will go past the exhaust valve

yeah i have seen high pedals and stiff cluthes from over tightened clutch cables. this stresses the cable and wears on teh pressure plate, over extending it my rule of thumb is to adjust the cable just till it takes the slack out, but not enough to pull back on the fork. the you can adjust the nut a few turns to set your pedal, but no more! i hat ehigh pedals as i like to keep my foot rested on the floor, heel on floor clutch with my toe. a high pedal i would have to hover my leg in the air, very awkward. the clutch should engage no sooner than you start to release the padal

take off the driver side timing belt cover. turn the crank till the 3 III marks come up on the flywheel, and the driver side cam is pointing up. now since you are there, turn the crank clockwise till the odeg btdc mark comes up. now put in the disty. the rotor will point to the farthest back terminal on the cap, to the right of the screw. the rotor goes counter clockwise 1,3,2,4 1 is the front piston on the passenger side

i have had cars so rusty that anyone else would have junked them being too afraid of the matter. rust so bad that the framerails were goen enough for one of the radius rod bolts to not mount to, the floor in back where it curves up rusted out and wires poking thru like john said looks can be deceiving, say rusty on the outside and solid underneath, or solid outside and gone underneath. my sedan has hles rusting thru the upper rear quarter and the wheel arches are half gone, but the underside is rock solid. this car is worth patching up the others being so far gone are no hope, but i would drive them anyway, for the fact they run. run them into the ground till the wheels fall off! no the car wont fall apart or fold in half. the worst example was the rear suspension started to torque away, causing a bind in the u-joint angle. but this was from off-roading. parted the car off to use the parts, not because the car wasnt driveable(or fixable-[hillbilly style welding fixes]

yeah if you run open belts, it saves you from having to remove the crank pulley and dipstick to change them. it keeps you from having to do all that and the covers to do the water pump the only reported failure from open belts was from a rag under the hood. my car. i invented the open belts, well, i preech it anyway. never had a problem off road mud grass gravel rocks railroads, airborne and the like. just dont keep rags under the hood, and if you do, stuff them somewhere! i remove all the covers, avery but except for the piece behind the idler pulley, as that area is the only part of the belts that are exposed from behind without it www.warpthree.com/milesfox/subaru/service/timingbelt.htm look at the pictures for what a naked belt looks like, the cam timing marks will line up to the gasket seam on the valve covers

yo i will see if i can find a pilot bearing here at jims. i do remember pointing out the bad one on the flywheel, but we forgot all about it when it was time to put it together... so was the disc stuck to the input shaft? how is the disc? if there is anything you need i will see what i can find here, let me know by tomorrow. i can go to toms next weekend cause he was unable to make it here to jims this weekend, so if i get things wrapped up right away i will set out early. if you need to get to toms let me know i have to go there sometime to get my keys and my battery

if it were to drop a valve seat the worst that would happen is a valve would stick open. the engine is non interference so that wont hit the pistons anyway we had this rx witha rod knock, ran fine other wise. pulled the heads and had cracks between the valves, down to the valve guides. but that didnt stop me from porting them and putting them on a higher compression block, the motor has seen 10,000 miles since then..................

DAMMIT yo its almost finished! i can come over after jims, i need to go to toms anyway to get my keys and some things i left in the sedan. if we are going to end up taking out the motor/tranny to inspect things, i DO have a fwd 5spd at jims, its the one that came from an 82 glf ea81 hardtop. i can bring that if you want to consider going that route if it means going that route to get you back on the road, so be it, the rest can come later at least you have all the parts i will be at jims thro today, looks like tom wont be making it down there tomorrow so i will swing by on my way up. probably not working on monday till night time dont abandon the project right yet, but lets get you back on the road whatever it takes did you figure out the clutch problem yet or not?