MilesFox

undo the water inlet hose from the metal tube on the side of the head. the oil line comes off at the back of the head, 14mm bolt. dont lose the copper washers! the turbo mounting bracket itself can be removed from the head to help the rubber hose clear

hey i think i remember the pilot bearing was bad or was that on the other flywheel? suppose it seized? dammit! i will have to come over and take a look something doesnt sound right. last i knew of someones tranny doing this it was pressure plate related. if you get to it before i could come it wopuldnt hurt to pull the motor, jack the tranny up first, the only difficulty we had putting it together is no tranny mount! too bad with all the bad luck, i could stop over sunday after jims. i may not have to work monday so keep that open and i will see about coming over i need to download yahoo messenger so if you need to hollar send a PM or email milesfox@yahoo.com

those heads are still good, cracks between the valves are a normal feature oin ea82. even if they go down to the valve guides they are ok. what would be bad if the cracks are gapped open, allowing a valve seat to drop. what you can do for preventative measure is close the cracks with a punch or drift, and stake the valve seats in chances are that if you go junking for another set of heads they too will have the same cracks beware of cracks in the exaust port on the bottom of the head, as this is where the water passages are in the head, and cracks there will allow coolant loss out the exhaust, but otherwise still run fine, no water in oil

i would like to make it. after may would be ideal for me as i will be tied up with the alliance meet. des moines sounds good as i have a vehicle in iowa that i need to bring back with me

a slack timing belt can cause backlash at the cam which drives the distributor, prevalent under load. check the timing belt tension sounds like the spark plugs are strupped, they should be only hand tight and 1/8 turn after having coolant spit out the cap could be a sign of combustion gasses leaking into the radiator over pressurizing it. you can run with the cap off to get you by if it becomes too much of a problem you may want to conseider a haead gasket job, and replace or re tap the head with the stripped plugs

place a jack under the front of the tranny and raise it up till the engine mounts come out of their holes. that way the weight of the tranny wont bind up on the bottom engine studs. there are a dowel pin on each side of the bellhousing, if you use a screwdriver and tap it in from the sides to separate like wedge action. sometimes a motor that has never been separated from the tranny can be difficult to separate. other than that, you have everything undone. make sure the torque converter stays with the tranny, as sometimes it will stick to the motor in the pilot hole there is plenty of room to jack up the tranny, take ut ip till it hits against the tunnel if you wish also, jack the tranny up to install the motor as well. the dowels should come off with the motor, if one sticks to the tranny you can drive it out with a drift and install it to the motor before re-installation. use anti seize on the dowels also

try checking the wiring in the door itself, between the window harness and the switch itself. so you know the swithc and motors are good i find that if any of the doors are unplugged from the body harness, none of the windows will work. if one switch on one door is disconnected then that window wont work from the master switch. seeing that you have only one window not working i would check for continuity from the switch plug in to the body plug in if you havent already

donor. you can hotwire the green wire on the fan to get it to work, the speed settings will work also. but fan blows out the vents in the off position

slip the clutch into the dump so the revs stay 3500+ bump the timing up and run premium. make cheap premium by adding a gallon or 2 of kerosene to a full tank of regular. drive in lo range!

i did jims bearings by hand, they have held up, but the main thing about it is it has new bearing seals. the bearings will last as long as the seals if thay are installed properly. ince the seal goes bad then the bearings get contaminated, thus failing the bearings will bottom out in their seats, so tap/press them in as far as they go. as the axle and hub comes together it will also squeeze the bearings in as you torque the axle nut

what about the tranny?

well if you didnt have insurance at least no one saw or knows about it. if you dont owe on the car you shouldnt have to claim. anyway, if the tree fell on the car you could probably claim "act of god" on the insurance. but if theres no police report that may be hard to do check the oil pressure sending wire, check anyhting that may have come loose from impact. are the suspensions bent?

i favor a pick, i can use the curved one to slide it under the seal lip and pull it out, the pick catches on the inside of the steel. sometimes i will use a small screwdriver but im careful about what im prying against, technique

but also disc brakes can be swapped on to non turbo models the same

the most important thing about this is removing the bolts. sometimes they are hard to turn due to corrosion, be caeful not to twist them off! use slow and even torque to loosen them, be careful as you dont want to turn the bolt faster than it can unthread. it may feel like its turning but really the bolt is flexing, so be careful. if the bolys give you a hard time work them back and forth to clean the threads off as it comes out. use anti-seize on the threads, clean the treads off with a brush, i find a wire wheel works best, but you can use your fingernail and turn the bolt to clear the threads if you dont have many tools i would recommend not bothering with the intake gaskets if there is nothing wrong, unless you are experienced enough to know what to expect about the bolts. i have broken a few myself so i know what to expect. but you dont want to develop your learning curve on your daily! practice on junk motors or at the junkyard till you get the technique down. you might have to actually break one to know how much torque is too much

what i would have to say is if you can manage to change an axle yourself the wheel beqrings go right along with it. just be careful with the drift punch to install them, use a large socket to tap them in as long as you can spread the forces across the races evenly. yorquing up the axle nut will seat the bearings all the way. i can see alleyboys point, but for economical reasons if they wouldnt hold up as long as using a press, its still cheaper to do it again later than to pay a shop for the first time

you can use a cutting wheel, a file, or hacksaw blade, or similar tool to make a slot on the headless bolts to turn them out with a flat screwdriver

i saw one go from the dealer for 70 bucks so be careful where you get it from as far as price goes

i know this guy, goes as ROOBAFLU on the board, i watched him convert the 4 headlights to round the grille and bezels will fit the same, but the metal between the hole for the quats were cut out, the metal was bent and shaped a little to use tapping screws to hold it still the 2 plugs for each set of lights, you plug both of them to one light to get the high lo beam functions, aske roobaflu for insight, he may take a picture for you

yeah its tapered, it holds still with tourque like caleb said put a jack under the tie rod and let it put some tension to hold the works still, once the nut starts to torque down she will hold on her own. nothing is wrong with it thats just how it fits together

hey the price sounds good for the condition of the car. looks like you got a solid ride, knowing the owner and maintenance histories go a long way. some people would pay more if they knew what they were getting

paint it white, or another lighter color, and paint the roof, trunk, and the middle raised part of the hood satin black. i think that would look good

since your car was automatic your axles will be correct for a dual range 4wd tranny i would agree to go with the mt conversion, i would suggest a dual range but any non turbo mt will work. if you use turbo trannies you will need turbo axles in the front i take it your ride is 4wd, so you will have to swap out the driveshaft and the rear diff to match a 5spd non turbo tranny. if you select a turbo tranny and the axles, you can keep the rear diff and change out the driveshaft only your car has a 3.7 final gear. all 85-86 3at has a 3.7 gear, as well as ALL turbo 3at. later 87 and up non turbo 3at has a 3.9 rear. the non turbo tranny also has a 3.9 gear. turbo manuals have a 3.7 gear. if you look on the back of the diff a tag will be there displaying the gear ratio now, single range pushbutton trannies from turbo and non have a vacuum actuation, so all of that will need swapped, solenoids and such. BUT the dual range tranny has a direct linkage to the 4wd with a lever so to sum it up, if you go with manual tranny here is what you need tranny flywheel/clutch setup, flywheel bolts to crank tranny crossmember. the at is located different, you remove 2 body bolts from the car and use the longer bolts with the MT mount in their place, so keep the bolts wit the crossmember driveshaft. the mt is shorter thus you need to swap the driveshaft. its 2 pieces, but the rear half is the same with at and mt diff. you need one with the same gear as the tranny pedal assembly. get the pedal assembly with the clutch cable still attached put it together and drive!

bring some spare parts if anything needs fixed we can do it at the meet. go get some new timing belts and we can put them on, and anything else while were at it i drove to columbus just a few days after putting the sedan together. did some work changing a seal and the water pump and drove home. if you trust your timing belts dont expect anything bad. top off the coolant and bring a spare tire

aside from wiring in a new harness and ecu, the fuel pump and its lines are the same, fit the same. you can swap the crossmember from the rx, may as well swap the whole suspensions, since the rx has an exclusive suspension package. you also need to use the rx axles with its tranny to match the spline as far as the tranny the same crossmember, clutch/flywheel, and driveshaft on the loyale now will fit the rx tranny. the center console is swappable, wire the diff lock switch to the wire for the loyale 4wd button. the 4wd is activated by vacuum on the loyale, and the same system and components work the diff lock on the rx. so all you have to do is connect the tranny to the vac lines and there is a working diff lock. you need to swap the rx shifter over as well, so you will ose the 4wd button shifter, you can use its wire to splice in the diff lock, or just let the old shift knob hang under the seat and use it. the 4wd lite will still come on and it will represent the diff lock you will have to swap over the rear diff for the gear, plus you gain lsd. you can use the existing axles so use the best of all 4. you can swap on the disc brakes but i sayt swap the whole trailing arms with the brakes in one piece, and this will have the mounts for the rear sway bar. swap over the rear coils but i think rx and wagon coils are the same in back