MilesFox

sounds like the shift linkage is tweaked. shift the car to park, get under the car and locate the linkage on the tranny. the lever should be all the way forward, if the rod is bent the shifter will be off from the tranny itself i had a 2wd 3at dl sedan, took it off road and park was hard to hit, the gears seemed to be in between the numbers on the shifter, was a bent linkage, easy to fix

yo forget about towing it to the shop, have the mechanic come to you! akron ohio is not too far from ol jim wood, if you know what im getting at.

the 88 rx has an optical disty, so the vac advance only applies to 85-86 models there are 2 screws that hold the throttle body in place, the holes are slotted and you can clock the mechanism one way or the other whats inside is an idle switch and a WOT switch, take off the sensor and shake it, if it rattles toss it and get another one check the idle and WOT switch per instructions in the haynes manual, chapter 6 engine emissions and controls, throttle pos sensor

you know i dont have aything to reference but i would bet that everything uses all the same parts, if you have a carb block then there you go if you are rebuilding it then yeah i can see the point but the part numbers are probably the same

its a switch fort he tranny kickdown for when u floor it.

you can identify the axle by the bands on the outer end of the shaft, one band is 2wd and two bands is 4wd. on ea82's turbos have 3 bands and are fatter the inner jointdoes slide back and forth sh you should bottom them out to compare lengths ea82 axles are 2 in longer than ea81

maybe the throttle pos. sensor is bad. try checking the codes if your car is 4wd is should have the adjastable struts for 85-86 4wd to blow up the truck get it stuck then try to get out.

well we can make the event for the whole weekend, you and john live in columbus, and i can be there for the whole weekend myself, maybe jim too. but anyway if one day of the weekend wasnt good for some people thay caould always come the next day, any one of 3 days. so lets make it official, the meet will be may 28-30, with saturday being the main day if we could off road only one day, and sun or mon being alternative days for anyone who cant come saturday, or whatever else we may do any opinions on this? the one in butler the out of state guys stayed the night for the whole event. i say if you come from so far may as well stick around, not to be so quick to leave

no worry we are all one big happy family. i was just at jims and johns this weekend, and even tom met us at jims. in a car i just put together and there on a bad crank seal and back all fixed up. going to vincents tomorrow, that will be all of us from the area have met with this weekend

yeah this could bind when turning but this would not be a problem on an appropriate surface that you would use 4wd on my post leans more towards thery of how the system than practical use. but in an emergency if odd tires is all you had then what i posted would be the recommendation if you had a flat in the woods and your spare was the wrong size, you can still use the 4wd since the open diff will absorb the difference, that is, 2 of the tires one on the rear and one on the front will still be the same size. going with 2 odd tires they need to be the same size to eachother, and one on the front, and one on the back but again i have run odd size tires becuse that was all i had, and i like baja'n anyway, im telling from my own experiences about what you can do and get away with it

ok htere are 85-86 that are the same. carbs the same and some 86 were spfi, but the 86 spfi(intake) is 86 exclusive(the connectors, not the components). then there is 87. 87 is transitional as some were spfi and some carb. the carbg models are more refined under the hood, and the spfi are like the 88. thye electricals in the car will be more like the 85-86 as far as connectors go, and the body will be more like the 88 i have an 88 sedan, who's original motor was swapped into a 91 loyale, and it runs the same, connects the same. i have a different motor, the block is from an 86, and the intake is from the 91 loyale, connects and runs the same

the clutch cable mounts to the bracket on the top of the tranny, in the same manner the parking brake lever is mounted to the caliper, and the nut fits on the top of the fork. the cable will come out the firewall and behind the steering, starter, back towards the tranny tunnel and loop around the top of the tranny so the the end of it faces forward to the front of the car, it feeds in from the back on the bottom of the fork is whare the hill holder cable goes to, the hatch doesnt have on being an AT now if this was a custom made cable you will have to find a way to secure it as it wont have the fitting for the stock subaru retaining clip.

ok, torxx the turbo 3at is 23 splines. you were wrong on the spline cound but i can say you are correct if i enlighten you on this: the 3at turbo is the only 23 spline axle with teh fatter diameter doj that would fit on a 25 spline axle so on this note turbo 3at dojs can be used to convert 25 spline axles to 23 splines caleb a ea82 flywheel will fit on an ea81, just the bolys are skinnier, but the flywheel still cnters on the crank snout, and torques down the same. the only thing is the timing marks will be different. vincent the axles in the hath will fit the dual range. are you still doing the ea82 conversion, or just doing the tranny for now till you figure out the strut caps. hey if you got the pedal box and cable figured out then you are good to go!! i think somewhere in the stash is an ea81 flywheel, but it was from a 2wd so it wont work i have a whole flywheel,clutch,pp from an xt you can use it, newer disc. as long as you have the bolts its all good. dont forget to grind away the bottom of the engine bellhousing to clear the starter teeth. make a note of the ea81 timing mark from the flexplate to the ea82 by matching the flywheel bolt pattern so you can scribe the ea81 mark on the ea82 flywheel im off monday till 9 pm so i can come by and give you a hand anyway about the rear axles ea82's are too long, but you can build the ea81 axle shafts with the ea82 doj and bearings, so long as you have good axle boots. i will tell you now it will be a waste to build the axles if you dont get good boots, as they wont last a week the first time they see mud. from what i have seen i would think that the ea81 and ea82 rear axle boots will be the same, as well as the same for the inner front axle boot for non turbo axles

hey i got a whole setup from this xt tranny. i can let you get it i can always get one of john or jims later, or from the c-bus yards. im a lot closer and can deliver, i dont have anything to put it on right now and both my rides have new clutch discs. this xt set looks to have been recently replaced into the car i got it from, so use it as is and be good to go! saves you a trip or having to wait for me to go get one. i dont work monday till 9 pm, so i can stop over and deliver it to you

here is my preferred method, it would be tha smame procedure as using the pickle fork but without one, and its less to unbolt thant the lower control arm disconnect, plus it gives more room to move things out of the way what i do is removet he nut from the ball joint stud, and plae a hydralic jack against the stud so the jack loads up the suspension by the stud only. then what you do is shock the tension loosel as you would tapping on the dise of a tie rod to pop it out. with teh suspension loaded up the lower control arm will have downward tension from the sway bar. tap around the lower control arm closest to the ball joint with a good sized hammer. the dead blows will break the tension and the lower control arm will pull away. now woth it loose you will have to push down on the lower control arm to get the stud to come out of its hole, i find iy best to use a long bar or pipe across the top of the lower control arm between the axle, wedge it up near the radius rod on the fram, and push down on it with my knee to move the lower control arm down enough to get the ball joint out. also i do this to put it back together i find this easier than the lower control arm disconnect, but it take some tehnique it may take a few attempts to do this effectively, but once you get it apart you will have developed the technique already

well since the 4wd with open front and rear diffs, the torque transfer is spread diagonally, that is in 4wd, one front and one rear will be locked in, and the others will spin freely aside from the difference in treads and being the same size, i would either put 2 like tires on one side of the car, or put one in front and the other opposite in back. that way you will have a tire each on each diff that will rotate at the same speed, and the difference in size for the other tires will be absorbed by the center diff this is what i would do if the tires are and difference in size, or slightly different diameter for tires of the same size anyway i can see what jim wants to do, keep like treads on the front axle for 2wd and steering. if running 2wd the differences wont affect anything, and if you use 4wd on 4wd friendly conditions this would have little to no effect. i have different makes of tires on the sedan and it does fine in 4wd, like the snow, slush, or patchy conditions honestly in my opinion from my understanding of the 4wd system's wotkings i wouldnt worry about the differences in make how you want to put them on the front and rear respectively. and if tread design want a concern with me i would put them diagonally from eachother let them speculate but i have used 4wd with odd size tires, diagonally as long as each 2 sets are the same size to eachother

sounds like the temp sensor for the ecu. its located on the back of the intake with a brown connector that looks like the ones on the injectors, 2 wires. the car will run fine till it warms up, then it wont know what to do, and if it stalls, good luck starting it till she cools off. my turbo wagon did this and i narrowed it down to the ecu temp sensor. sometimes just cleaning the contacts in the connector will fix the problem. the sensor is a variable resistor, and corrosion will change the resistance values and thus the ecu reads a wrong signal try cleaning the contacts to see if that helps, then check the ecu codes per the USRM link on the top in the miscellaneous section

i have a 2" cherry bomb on the sedan, immediately after the y pipe. i have run the car y pipe only, y and bomb, y, bomb and straight pipe here are the results" open y pipe will scream in the upper rpm, break a wheel loose if accelerating out of a turn. but the takeoff is slow so you have to slip the clutch a little to get past the bog, i found myself taking gears up or downshifting becuase it doesnt want to pull at low rpm, 200-2500 rpm. but on the highway you have excellent throttle response and your foot is light on the gas. but city driving this will hurt you because you are always in a lower gear and higher rpm y pipe and glasspack, i have the 18" long cherry bomb although i probably should have used the longer one. anyway, this brought some torque for the low rpm take offs, and improved mid gear pull, i didnt have to winf her up, and she would pull the next gear at the same speed and load. it did choke down the higher rpm acceleration, but that was made up for by shifting sooner and pulling from 2000 rpm. this improved on city driving y pipe, glasspack, straight pipe. I later installed a 2 in pipe back to the rear diff. this quieted the car down considerably and took the noise out from under the passenger area. the torque was good for low rpm, the car pulls excellent from 2000 rpm, and actually broadened the torque curve to 3500 rpm, as the straight pipe kept the velocity of the exhaust pulse on the highway the revs arent as quick as i like them to be, but she gets up good by shifting at 3500 rom and pulling from 2500. once you get to speed, around 3-3500 rpm, she holds her speed with little pedal effort, and the pipe still flows like it should but my results are compared to running with no exhaust rather than running with a stock exhaust. overall im happy and the car is very driveable, and would have good off road characteristics on the highway averaging 65-70 mph for 360 miles for a full tank i got 27 mpg

the haynes book has fluid capacities, so should the subaru owner's manual. agreed a write up would be nice!

it will also affect the cruise control

all 5 spd 4wd uses the same clutch disc, this includes single range, dual range, turbos and full time also. supposedly awd ej clutches are the same i do know for a fact that ej and ea fwd 5spds use the same disc

if you jack the car on the side put the jack against the tube frame just ahead of the rear wheels. that is all on the suspension, so it wont crush the body. be wary of jacking along the pinch welds this is a subaru and not some GM

yeah i had this spfi dl with a 3at 2wd, the motor was bad and i used a carb block, it was a dog but i blame it more on the transmission do you plan to build up a turbo on the xt6? maybe you can consider carb pistons, as they work with turbos in stock boost applications, but i would avoid this for high boost applications without aftermarket engine management/intercooler

john and jason see what you can pull together for another alliance meet, you guys know the columbus area so whatever you can come up with it will be good for sure

i used one for my 3 in lift but i extended the piece on the rack, the angle was a little sharp on the double u joint so extending that piece itself sounds like a better idea. i had taken out my lift and shortened the piece for the rack and had non lifted ea81 with the ea82 u joints