MilesFox

on ea82 the holes wont be ther but they will be for ea81, for all that i have seen in my ea81 i went from fwd 5spd and i had to beat out the tunnel for a 4wd 5spd from ea82, cut a hole in the side. the 4spd isnt as big so it wont take as much as mine and most kikely wont have to cut anything. the tranny tunnes will be different for whatever tranny came with, but the auto tunnel will be the biggest

glad to hear you got the oil p. gauge working! did you need an adapter? dont be afraid to post that is why this is a message board

as far as off road you will have better control when reversing down a hill, better stopping power backwards and such, way way better, helps aginst the front wheels locking up on an inclune so you help out with your steering control

my last car was driven in excess of 30 miles with NO gear oil. topped it off and it made the 2000 mile trip home, and the tranny still works in another car. i would bet it holds up for a good while, if its not damaged now(it still works) it wont wear any more than it is now with gear oil. how long was she dry? another one of my cars had a little but of a diff noise when i got it but i never had any trouble out of it

you can swap on an ea82 carb, if yours is the hitachi(throttle on passenger side). you can swap the whole intake if you do a fwe slight modifications

try dopuble clutching or rpm matching when you shift, as this will halp the gear go in the inner end of the axle is rebuildable, you can service it without having to press the axle out of the knuckle, if you pop the ball joint or unbolt the lower control arm. there is a roll pin that holds the inner side onto the tranny, 3/16" drift punch, the holes align one way so dont be 180 off. insert the punch before you drive the oin to make sure its aligned ask to know when the timing belts were last serviced. a timing belt faulure is really the only thing that will leave you stranded, bot nothing is damaged if this were to occur. the timing belts should be replaced every 60,000 miles, so if yyou dont know may as well replace them. and as far as the motor comes apart to do the timing belts, it would be a good time to inspect or replace the engine seals, water pump while its apart. do all this and the motor will be good for another long while before you have to worry about it, so long as the cooling system is in good working order to prevent over heating and head gasket faulure

the mpfi non turbo and turbo ecu is the same on xts, it will run a turbo just the same. the only thing different is the groundin on one of the pinouts that identifies the ecu as na or turbo, you can mke the right ground to let the ecu identify itself as a turbo the non turbo pistond are 9,5 compression, the turbo pistons are 7.7 compression. going turbo in this would be the same as building turbos on an spfi block. you can do this so long as you know what to expect, and to tune your engine management accordingly. a surbo and its exhausts will bolt on, as well as the water pipe, but you will have to tap the back of the head for the oil line, or run a custom lenght off the oil ump. you will also have to add a oil return line for the turbo, a 1/2" fitting rubber hose. you would be better off finding a complete turbo motor, as it will plug and play, if you have the spider intake you can keep that but you will have to plumb in the turbo inlets. you can use a carb block for 9.0 compression, and swap your heads with the modifications in mind what else would be ideal if you keep your short block is to get some turbo heads for the the fittings, and the turbo cams. you will want turbo cams or have the stock cams reground to have less valve overlap fr the turbo. if you go this route you can also change out the pistons. you can swap in turbo pistons, but if you like the idea of higher compression carb pistons will be ideal for running stock engine manegement. ea82 carb pistons are 9.0 and ea81 pistons are 8.5, any of these pistons will fit the same. spfi pistons are the 9.5 as well as the pistons in the motro you have now

for axles with 25 splines, the doj from a 3at turbo axle can be swapped on for use with 23 spline trannies. its the same diameter as the 25 spline doj, but has 23 splines. the 3at turbo is the only 23 spline large diameter doj. sometimes when you buy a remanufactured axle you may get a 3at, it has a the same shaft diameter as 25 spline turbo axles, 3 bands on the outer end. i have seen 3at axles on other models because the original axles have been changed out

also the bracketry for the choke actuation on jims carb is missing, there are 2 holes on the throttle bracket that looks to take screws for additional linkage does anyone have a picture of the choke mechanismes how it is supposed to be for front mounted, throttle on the passenger side, electric choke pull off looks as if the linkages were removed to clear the distrubutor. any pics would help as i could make something for jim if have an idea of what its supposed to look like

what i would do is go with a cherry bomb or no muffler at all what i find to be ideal is the glass pack at the downpipe flange and stright pipe out the back. the glass pack will give a deep mellow sound and the pope back will take the sound out from under the car, and reduce the pulsing sounds

#2 if you have no ac and there is no fan you will most likely have the short style 105mm water pump. if you lok at the pulley tou will notice it bolts onto the pump, but there should be 4 additional holes where you can install studs and a clutch fan. if you ever buy a water pump, get the short 105mm if the pulley looks as described, and it will come with the studs for the clutch fan(napa) or you could deebo them from a parts car, studs, nuts, and fan. use 2 rereches to lock 2 nuts together on a stud, the turn the inside nut to remove the studs #3 the binding of the 4wd is drom the difference of rotation between the front and rear axles. although the frotn and rear are open diffs, one of the tires on the front will be locked in with one of the tires on the back, diagonally from eachother, depending on turning or traction. if you have 2 wheels off the ground either on the same side or diagonally from eachother, the car wont go. you can test this by jacking the car up by one side, putting it in 4wd and and in gear, and those tires in the air will spin, 2 of them, because the other 2 on the ground will be idle through the open differentials. the torque from the motor will go to the wheels with the least resistance, the ones off the ground 4# you can engage hi range without the clutch as long as you are not decelerating or accelerating, but you can at a constand speed/load. you will want to use the clutch to engage lo range, you can do it at the same speed aslong as you shift up as you do so before releasing the clutch. 5th gear lo is just a tad but taller than 3rd gear high, so this speed and rpm at 3rd gear would be ideal to go from 2wd or hi to low at the same speed. the 4wd should only be used on surfaces with 10% slippage, heavy rain on pavement, snow, ice, and gravel are ideal surfaces to use 4wd. if you have trouble disengaging 4wd try backing up to releive any bind as you push down on it. the wheels need to be pointed straight so make soure you travel at least a car length or 2 straight before you disengage #5 sounds like bad brake shoes. if it gets too bad they can fall out, and if so, the wheel cylinder will hyper extend and may blow a seal. if you can get the nut off and the drum is stuck to the axle sytb, you will have to use a puller or do a porr mand stick by removing the rear axle, and popping the axle stub out as you would on a front axle, be careful not to damage the thread. put the nut on backwards so its flush with the end of the axle stub(to heep it from mushrooming), butt the round end of a ball peenen hammer to the depression on the end, and whack the ball peene with a 3lb hammer to drive it out. #6 the stock alternator will handle a pair of 100 watt halogens just fine if its in sound shape. 30 amp alts have a green band, 60 amps have orange band. you will be most likely to find the 60 amp on gl-10 with air suspension or xt's with air. othe makes of japanese cars may have them also, if the mounting looks the same. i think the 60 amp with the orange band is of mitsubishi manufacture. black band alternators from xt6 are 90 amp, but the mounting is slightly different and will have to be modified. a lot of times remanufactured 30 amp altrernators will have the bands painted black. the best place to mount flood lighes i have found would be on the bumper. on 87 and up the bumpers are styrofoam under the shin on top, and 85-86 bumpers are metal. you can mount them on the bottom of the 87 and up bumpers if you cut out between the holes behid it to get a wrench on the nut, once you drill mounting holes. the onlt thing bad about lights under the bumper is once you bottom out say good bye to them! i had them this way on the rx, but i removed them. i made a light bar for the top of the bumper by narrowing a spar from an ea81 roof rack. i tried to do this to an ea82 rack but i couldnt get the screws out, and plus the curvature will make it off. you can use the whole thing like it is but it will be wider than the grille. i made mine the same width as the grille. mine is fastened with self tapping lag screws like you would mount wall dispenders to concrete walls. it bites through the skin enough to hold it on, but the bar will flex a little with the skin. you could tap the holes and use fine thread screws as well. lights on the top will do you no good for night driving, as they will light up the sky and the top of trees. if its raining snow of fog it will white you out like brights in fog. the 100 watts dont point down enough to shine in front of the car. the plastic 55 watts you can point them down to the road in fronnt of the car, but it wont do any good for far away lighting. the flood lights on the bumper is best because you can point them straight ahead down the road. point the bumper lights as far as you can see them lighting the road way ahead of the car, not too high off the road, and not too close to the car. as far as lights on the top i have them there for a specific purpose. i have them mounted to the roof rack, they point down immedialtely past the hood, for baja'n in tall grass where your headlights will be blocked out, the roof lights will let you see. they are good for trails in the woods because they will light up trees and obstructions in close proximity. you can mount another smaller set to the sides of the rack for alley lights, so you can see beside the car when baja'n trails 7. you wont have to jack up the car to get under it! also good for urban type situations if you like to take shortcuts across the berms in mall traffic 8. try clocking the throttle position sensor one way or the other, take it off and shake it to see if it rattles. if so its bad. may want to replace it if clocking it doesnt fix it. jim woods car did this and i took the throttle sensor off and shook it, it was rattling so something was obviously broken inside. replacing it fixed the problem. also check and clean all the onnections on the engine harness and the temp sensor on the thermostat housing(2 wires green clip) 9. you can go so far but the intake bolt holes will be offset and the valves will be closer to the pistons. make sure you know how far the valves move by the cam profile, you will want to find some numbers for spfi valve train so you can determine how far is safe to go.

you can fix this by replacing the hub that bolts to the rotor, sounds like it stripped the splines. easy to fix so long as the splines on the axle are not stripped. the metal on the axle should be hgarder than the cast iron hub, so you may be in luck

i had an 83 wagon, fwd 5spd, i converted it to 4wd and the holes for the diff hanger bolts were already there on ea82's the 23d and 4wd tanks are the same but yeah, everything will swap over, so long as you have all the parts u need

well i may have to swap out the wheels with the rx, the rx has knuckles from an 86 wagonthe wheels on the sedan now are from an 86 ea82, silver rims, i should find a set of black rims to use. i do notice the rims on the car are more dished than what im used to, but they are also original to the 86 sedan they came from yes, the sedan has newer brake pds

ok if the parts car is MT and you are using the AT, you need to find an ea81 flexplate with bolts. it will fit the ea82 torque converter just fine

yay good work keep em coming!!!

i have an 88 2wdat to 4wd 5spd conversion sedan, although it has been converted to 4wd it has 88 front suspensions. i have a set of rims that are rubbing on the front calipers. these rims came from an 86 sedan. so does that mean there is a difference in size between 86 and 88 front calipers? at first i thought maybe one of the caliper bolts were parted out but its all there like it should be. they rub on the caliper like i have observerved ea81 wagon wheels on an 88 dl wagon so does this mean also that ea81 wagon rims will fit on 86 ea82? one observation that i have made between an 87 gl-10 and an 88 spfi wagons, i had swapped a caliper from the 88 to the gl 10 and noticed that one of them has 2 bolts that hold the parking brake cable support and the other had one bolt

sounds good about the tent idea. i should get one myself. maybe john will put up his back yard to pitch a tent

just take the old idiot light to napa or advance, ask to compare to see if you need an adaptor. compare the fittings in the gauge kit to the sender, and compare both to any fittings at the store

is the steerig off center? a bent rear trailing arm will throw the steering wheel off. mine is bent and looks like camber

if i remember correctly i parted out this 83 gl-10 fwd 5spd wagon, and i believe it had a rear swaybar. try cheking into ea81 gl-10's

yes the swap can be done, you will have all the parts needed between both cars the is the parts car an AT or MT? you will have to swap over the fuel pump from the parts car, to go with the carb you may have to swap some of the wiring and the ecu for the carburetor to run the egr and purge solenoid, although you can get the carb to run allrighe without it i have an 87 rx that has a carbureted ea82, what you are doing will be the same involved as in my car, except you will be using the ea81

hey if youre bringign the RX it sleeps rather well in back! we could camp out in a wagon circle of sorts so long as we have a place to park overnite

you may as well keep it turbo. here are your options if the turbo or mpfi turns out to be bad you can swap in a carbbed motor, just change out the fuel pump you can swap the turbo top end onto a carbbed bottom end it is speculated an ea82 turbo from 85-86 will work, the motor itself will bolt on, and the engine management systems are very similar if not identical. supposedly all the plug ins fit the same a 5spd dual range can be swapped in, you know the basics, flywheel, tranny mount, driveshaft, diff for the ea81 turbo bl;ock the flywheel from a 5spd will fit, but if you use a carbbed motor or bottom end you will have to grind a way on the bottom of the bellhousing to clear the staryter teeth. but you ca also swap the engine bellhousings too hope this answers you i have myself put 5spds in ea81T, and ea82 motror in ea81, just havent done an ea82T in place of ea81T, but i did convertthe same ea81T to carbureted

you can remove the rear half of the driveshaft itself, leave the front end in to plug the tranny. you can drive like this too if you need to get around till you get your part the rear half of the driveshaft is the same for manual and auto, so if you are junkyarding any will do