MilesFox

remove the roll pin on the inner end of the axle with a 3/16" drift punch. then pull the axle away from the tranny by eaither separating the ball joint with a fork, removing theball joint fom its pinch bolt, or by disconnecting the lower control arm. once that is done you can whack the end of the axle with a hammer and pound it out. be careful of the threads, iu use the round end of a ball peene hammer against the dimple on the end of the axle, and hit the ball peene with a 3 lb hammer to put the axle back on put it on the tranny end, slip the spindle end into the knickle and tap around the knuckel enough tull you can get the nut on, use the nut to draw the axle thru, tnen remove the nut, install the washers and then the nut

put a beer manifold on it. draft injection. more taste less carb

cutting the airbos wont affect torque it will give potential for airflow it will give you some intke noises the stock y pipe does most of the exhaust characteristics. you could run it alonr and have good hogh rpm, but low end may suffer a little. i like to put a glasspack immediately after the y pipe and that gives me the best of both top and low try running with NO y pipe, take off will be boggy but man will she scream in the high rpm!

well it has been tha last 2 times. i discussed this with jim we agreed on memorial day iluvdirt whats the word on using the shop for the meet?

yeah its funny you should hear the jokes hey my typing is worse but it still gets to the point if its not worth replying to then dont. hot close to home waht? get off it. and tyeah i see the typo but i dont feel like correctin g it

actually the idiot light hole is one of the plugs if the other sender is used. you can use this hole if you can find an adapter to fit the gauge fitting. take the old sender to autozone and ask them to compare to fittings(behind the counter) there is also a fitting towards the bottom of the pump that takes a allen wrench to remove, this can fit but the threads will be tight, it may be hard to start a thread as it will want to tap itself to the fitting's thread. be careful here if you feel you will mess it up go the adapter route. with the other hole

the clutch cable may be too tight. it should not exert any pressure on the fork at rest. back ofr the cable till the fork is relaxed, so you can wiggle it by hand, then adjust the cable just enough that it takes the slack out of the cable, but does not begin to pull the fork. make your final adjustment to the clutch cable before you adjust the hill holder if the cable is too tight it stresses the cable, it pushes the pp too far and wers out the fins, and if its too tight enough its as if the clutch is partially depressed and the PP wont hold 100%

hey that is a neat idea, this is somethig i would definately do myself. how do you determine how much you have taken off?

yes you can connect an aftermarket tereo to the common ground. the left front and rear share a ground as well as the right front and rear. what you do is connect the front - to the ground for each side and leave the rear - from the aftermarket radio disconnected, tape them off

dam gary why you gotta be so hard on jim for? not everyone is a super secret government agent:rolleyes:. very unbecoming of a MODERATOR. napa is a nation wide store, you knew that. dont hold yourself so high, put others down. are you coming to our next alliance meet? jim says he really wants to meet you, "miles and skip are father and son" dont make me run you off the board again

a carb block would be ideal. use the turbo heads and intake, carb bottom end. the hole for the knock sensor is present on the block. the crankcase vent is not there but you can bypass that here is what is involved, me and a buddy built turbos on a carb block for an RX www.warpthree.com/milesfox/87rx/rxbuild

www.warpthree.com/milesfox/87rx/rxbuild there are a few pics of an ea82 turbo in carious stages of head gasket and reseal, block, block with intake, block with intake and turbo. and pics of the individual parts themselves

im assuming you have the hitachi compressor, big round one on the inside of the alternator. if you take off the compressor there will be enough of the bracket to run the alternator by itself, although it will appear to be floating on the left side. ask tomrhere about the setup, his 82 brat came this way with an ea82 engine, you will have to get a different belt to make up for the absence of the compressor, tom should have a goodyear part number for the belt

let it cool off and check the coolant. there may be an air pocket in the cooling system, sometimes its tricky to get it all out the motor in this car came from me out of trashwagon 6, i helped install the motor along with the 5spd conversion, i got it from jim wood in sidney oh also check the rubber hose between the intake and the block, it comes off the thermostat housing the motor that came out of your car is alive and well in my buddy roberts car, and the tranny went into a sedan for sale at a used car lot in st marys ohio

my buddy put rear speakers in his loyale, the wiring was already there. also, under the dash there is a plug for a map lite if you chose to install one. you ill have to cut a hole in the headliner but the mount is there behind it wiring will also be present for power windows and locks if the car does not have them already

the holes in reference are on the side of the exhaust port, on carbs it runs up to the back of the head. on spfi this hole is not present, so you will have to block it. one cheap way i did such a thing was to cut the pipe ff and weld a bolt or spark plug in the inch length of pipe i left there is an egr port on the top of the passenger head, its the same between carb ans spfi so everything will fit the same if using the carb heads keep the spfi cam and tower to bolt on top of the head

sorry i forgot to describe the add on ac. jim had a wagon i serviced with the add on ac, if i remember it had the long water pump anyway it had i big fat rear compressor, it had some relays on the passenger strut tower that took regular aftermarket instead of the factory brown an black relays. also the hoses from the compressor where they turned metal to rubber had a clamp that looked like a modified heater hose clamp, whereas factory setups have the metal to rubber crimped like any other hose like the brake line or ps line the bracketry was stamped steel and had a square hole for a 1/2 drive, you had to do swing the compressor out of the way to remove the alt or the belt. factory setups have cast iron braketry. and also the alternaor was mounted inboard on this one factory ac the compressors are fixed mountsd and the add on the compressor swings away like an alternator to service the belts just like add on cruise it just doesnt look right as if it was added on, or the components didnt look subaru enough

sorry to be so down on the idea but i am telling you from my own experiences. i tried this once and will ot do it again. as i pulled the motor out farther i had to keep raising the car, the crane only goes so high before you have to shorten the chain. anyway it took me several attempts to finally wrestle the whole thing out i dont think it was designed to go that way anyway. as you tear into a subaru you can tell how it wants you to take it apart by the way its put together!

check the engine codes a thte ecu described in USRM>miscellaneous. my buddy's car disd the grumbling idle and pulled a crank angel sensor code. it was fine but on some days it would not stat. he put the motor in another car and it died right away. replacing the distibutor fixed the problem there are a lot of factors considering how the car runs but SPFI is very simple for fuel injection and the engine codes will hit the nail on the head with whats going on

i determine how often i change my oil by knowing when it was las changed, knowing what the car has seen (baja'n, weather, how long it sits or how often its driven) color, how it fels between my fingers, and i smell the oil for gas or burnt smells im not religious on ghanging the oil, but if i know it has been a while then i will. if i get a new car or motor i change the oil anyway. if my motor leaks than i know it gets a mix of fresh oil often, self changing oil as you will. i had this pinto once that burned and leaked oil out of every seam, i was dumpng anyhig from used oil from car lots to chainsaw bar oil, i cnanged the filter once but not the whole oil. it was so bad it used 3 GALLONS of chainsaw bar oil in one 150 mile trip. i even took the oil out of my 84 soob to go to work anyway i try to keep consistent whith what i use, i like napa/wix fiters and fid the napa house brand(valvoline) oils economical, from straigh tto blend to syn. i have 10-30 napa syn in th erx now. the sedan has valvoline blend but it needs an oil change because zanny dook drove this car, his driving habits, and all the baja'n!

blow it out with compressed air

the outer end of the axle fits on a splined spindle with a roll pin. you dont have to pop the spindle out like a font axle. if you can get the diff out of the car, whack the insode of the DOJ away from the diff with a 3 lb hammer. rotate and whack, repeat. find a hammer that is beveled on one side so you dont hit the diff as you swing. a propane toch and PB blaster works quite well

if you ever have another confrontation Quote This Fox "If you have a problem lets take it off-road!" i wonder how many of these people in fancy cars even know how to drive them to their potential, or even handle the car? i could spank rump roast in my carbbed RX just for drivung technique alone(urban driving within 45mph, outmaneuverability) all the ricers hang out at the old hires and there i am actually working on my car, drawing a crowd. broke out the welder till i realized there was no electricity on the wall socket. and the biggest truck there wont take my offer to go baja'n behind k-mart.

knock the timing back a few degrees to be safe, since that is what the knock sensor does anyway

1. if you have to pull a head take the motor out, as its less fristrating and actually faster to take the motor out than to headache yourself with the motor in the car. however a headmay ost depends on your method of getting one. i have them falling out of my rump roast, so if i need one i hit up my stash. if you know others with soobs, and have a decent stash, you can trade for one. i couldnt tell you how much one woule be at a parts store, if they even have them. your best bet would be to hit the junkyard, one that doesnt itemize a price for every little thing, go somewhere you can haggle and put cash on the table before you get yout part. as far as the yard its not necessary to pull the motor to get the heads, bring an assortment of 17mm tools to get the head off, so your tools wont run into the valve springs tying to loosen them 2. sounds like lifter noise. no worry its nothing the car will up and fail over. bottom end noises will come and go according to load one ay or the other. try replacing the oil pump seals 3. turn it to the right to advance, as the rotor goes counter clockwise. all the way is about 20-25 deg, i like to run spfi at about 22 deg 4. i invented open belts. trust me the speculative rock or depbris issue is very unlikely to happen. i ran out wst on mix and match used belts, no problem. went baja'n no problem. put the motro in another car ad drove daily, went baja'n through weeds taller than the car, mud, gravel, you name it, no problem. then i let my buddy drive and the car quit, would you know the only reported belt failure from open belts was due to a loose rag under the hood. ixed it in 10 minutes. i always preach open belts because hey, if you break a belt you can fix it in 10 min with a ratche and 2 sockets, thats all. and if you ever have to change a seal, water pump, or service th eoil pump it saves you a LOT of time by not having to take abunch of crap off the motor. leave the one piee of plastic behind the idler pulley ias it is the only section of belt that would otherwise be exposed from the back side. cut of the part that overlaps the oil pump sp you can remove it without having to take that one piece off 5. if you know what right to do an engine can be pulled in under an hour. for spfi get under the car first and drop the exhaust, unbolt the motor mounts, and drain any coolant at the radiator and the plugs on the heads. then go up top and remove the gound wire from the water pipe, undo the spfi harness, the disyt wie, and the throttle cable. the pull the heater hoses from the motor end. then remove the clutch fan, undo the lower radiator hose form the motor end, and the upper from the radiator end. you can leave the electric fan on the rad if you get the right angle to pull the radiator. it will be tigh t around the ps lines, yuk the upper hose behind the oil fill tube. disconnect the fuel lines , then the bellhousing bolts an you are good to go. leave the starter in and the battery cables connected to it. the groud cable fits on a bracket that has the top bolt go throug it, so dont forget it when you put the motor back in. oh yeah, take out the pitch bar 6. the fuel filter for spfi is under the hood near the strut tower, big canister looking thing. it should be there stock, if not it has been removed. when going back together the fuel line off the filter connects to the BOTTOM fitting on the throttle body