MilesFox

BAD AXLE replace the one on the front right. the wheel will jerk to the right as the cv binds up and takes the wheel out you hand if you aint lookin' if it were the inner side you would feel it in the wheel upon accel or decel, torque against the motor and driveline the axle will hold out for a little while. if it gets so bad it pulls the wheel try reversing at full loick to center the bearings. add some grease to prolong it if you will be going with ea82 setup then you should look into an ea82 axle

i would say a complete setup, flywheel, shifter, crossmember is worth $100-125 depending on availability $150 with a diff and driveshaft. that is how much i would pay for one of these, say a complete setup off a junkyard car

if you do not see fuel at the injector chances are the distributor is bad. i just put spfi together, no spark or fuel, used a different disty and all good check the engine code procedure described in the usrm>miscellaneous

leave the turbo on the car, just connect the fuel lines, throttle cable, electrical connectors. you can take off the "4wd turbo" plenum to access the throttle cable just unbolt the turbo from the downpipe, leave the downpipe bolted to the side of the turbo. do as you would for any other engine pull, jack up the tranns so the motor mounts clear, and pull the motor. if you leave the downpipe connected to the tranny it will line up for motor reinstall. you will have to remove some of the turbo shrouding but not all of it the ac/alt assebly can be undone and swung out of the way it will only take you all day if you are taking off more than you need to

yo i get my license back in april. i have a spare d/r no shifter or rev/n switches. sounds good we can make this happen agian this year

a rusty subaru is better than no subaru. i have had rusty subarus but never had any structual issues. generally the underside will be in much better shape than what it looks like outside

what is wrong with the parts car? if you take the goodies from it and you can put the leftovers back on it, sell it and get your money back. is tha parts wagon fixable?

85-86 had them on the cown whereas 87 and up had them on the hood. same goes for the XT

looks like you will have to bust the lock cylinder out or bust off the whole thing to defeat the locking pin on the column, if it comes down to having to turn the wheel at a different angle to remove screws.

you couold mount the radio facing up at you at an angle to clear the heater box behind it, as long as it doesnt mess with the operation of the cd. some consoles came stock that way but thay are rare personally i like to mount my gauges on the dasn, just under the headlight and wiper switches, if i made a console i would have a storage there i like it. but maybe you could do both. if you mounted the gauges on the console you wont see the backsides of them like on the dash

what about a dual spfi using 2 maf, 2 tb and one distributor? with teh maf separate each side will have poper mix proportionate to airflow, 2cyl instead of 4

running in the red is not good, you could have a blown head gasket, or oneis about to go running hot. make sure the radiator is ood and the coolant level is correct. it is possible the water pump may not be functioning properly thus causing the running hot. you should consider replacing the water pump first thing, may as well do the timing belts and seals. but water pump st least for now to see if that fixes it i would assume your car is mpfi, if not turbo. if it isnt turbo yopu can swap one on if you get the proper disty with knock sensor/control unit form 85-86 turbos its quite possible the head gasket could be blown, but see this as an excuse to do the engine up good. inspect the exhausst ports for cracks as these will lose coolant. the cracks between the valves are normal you can close them up with a punch

you should have the same size tires all the way around. if not at least have the same size 2 tires, one on the back and one on the front, opposite sides, so the open diffs can make up the difference dont use 4wd on dry pavement

get a performance coil and some 7 or 8mm cutom wires, gap the plugs to .050 and bump the timing a few degrees

on the non turbo the exhaust header is referred to as the y-pipe. on turbo motors the x or crosspipe goes from both exhaust ports to the turbo, the downpipe is the pupe from the turbo down to under the car

very nice the exhaust looks stock withits fitment and overall appearence. me likey likey

all ea81 rear axles are the same no ea82 axles wont fit since the ea82 is wider ea82 doj will fit on an ea81 rear axle axle stubs, bearings, and trailing arms are swappable between either

30 degrees is nice n'breezy over here. i bet torxxx would be in a t-shirt! anyway im good til about 20 deg, once it gets around 15 its too cold for me. i can stand the cold for a while till my feet get too cold. steel toe boots dont help. a hat and gloves go a long way, and keeping the wind off you as well. wear sweatpants under the jeans and you will stay warm for a while

85-86 maf for turbo and non turbo mpfi is the same. the only other MAF for that year is the 86.5 spdi, which will not work i believe ea81T (83-84) maf will work, since it has the vane style MAF and the MPFI system is very similar

oh man the xt is a whole different story pulling the column, the instruments come with the column, there is the tilt cable that has to be disconnected, and many more bolts holding it to the dash. not to mention the wires! good luck

for the valve(cam) covers the boltswill only tighten so far down because its a shouldered bolt.. the gasket itself is formed rubber and fits in a groove on the edge of the cover. over time they get hard and brittle, and can crack, causing leaks. a temporary fix would be to pull the cover and lok for cracks, fill the cracks with RTV when you buy a gasket set it will include the rubber grommets for the bolts as well you can get them off easier if you undo the motor mount bolts from the crossmember and jack the motor up as much as the exhaust will allow. also remove the front pitch bar bolt to allow it to move when you drop the motor down you can walk the motor mounts into the holes with a pry bar

if the heads turn out to be good you can get away with using a carb'd block if you keep everything stock. if you go modded an intercooler would be the first thing you would want

yes this would make sense for spfi or tbi systems, but the spider intake has the injectors near the heads

i know of an 84 brat that is AT

interstate batteries cam original equipment in older soobs. i have been pleased with them. i had one that was on its way out from abuse but it held out better than i though t it would