MilesFox

the bottom end is prababl trash if the head bolt threads are broken down if the car otherwise in good shape its worth getting, having died from overheat, you know at least the mpfi works and the turbo is still good. the heads may be salvageable and you could find another motor i would say if you get it for cheap then its worth a project

ok. the one i have is non turbo mpfi. how different is the turbo piping to the TB. is there any mix of other stock parts i can use to put a turbo with the spider? is yours stock or custom? got a pic? sorry to jack the post:cool:

oops i responded to the double post, now what?

yeah i know what you mean it got by me when i pulled the spider from an xt didnt expect it there. i guess the reason coolant goes to the TB is to prevent icing of the throttle body in cold weather? maybe you should bypass it for turboing purposes

hey its easy. somple 12v and ground. once you accomplish this any other electrical work will seem more understandable disconnect the- battery terminal so you dont short anything out, the amp needs a constant hot wire off the battery, a ground, and the remote wire that turns it on from the radio or a switch

ea82s will fit no problem. they can be had for cheap, parts are more common for it. so what if it has timing belts if you ditch toe plastic covers you can change them in 10 minutes rather than 3 hours anyway the ea82 has the same bellhousing and motor mounts, and the ea81 intake will fit on the ea82(non tubo)

when approaching turns say at an intersection, do all your braking and slow down before you turn. dont brake during the turn, because the front may understeer and put you into the opposite lane! use common sense and be aware of the momentum of the car

an ea82 will bolt righ tin if you have the flywheel to it. if not you can drill the holes in the old flywheel to fit the ea82 if you found an ea82 long block with no intake, the brat intake will fit. you can use an spfi block with the brat intake and gain some compression also if you use an ea82 swap the pitch bar mount from the old motor onto the ea82. take the disty out to clear the master cylinder when installing it, them put it back in. either way you will need a 85-86 carb disty to work in the brat, but you will have to either lengthen the wires or put the coil on the other side. if you use an ea82 battery/starter cable you can put the battery on the other side too, just run a wire to the alt output form the new location(you will have to remove the jack holder) motor mounts and bellhousing are the same with the ea82 vs ea81

pushing down on the lever may get it to latch again. the lever side has teeth that fit onto the "dogs" on the track on that side, and there is a cable that goes across to the other side to another teeth. pushing down on the lever shopuld at least hold on that side if the other one is sticking. take the seat out and have a look, should be easy to fix

notice the caption, the white one is the standard "STD" hatch

well since the motor is from an AT you wont have the ea82 flywheel. if you drill out the flywheel holes it will fit the motor. drill them out to the diameter the flexplate bolts are, and get longer bolts with the right thread, m10 x1.00 thread if you can get some ea82 flywheel bolts that would be best. just drill the flywheel holes out bigger and there you go! the motor mounts will fit the same take out the distributor when u install the motor so you clar the master cylindr, tyhem put it back on i would say its best to use an ea82 tranny as well, if you find the flywheel for it, but there is a lot more invilved like the driveshaft and tunnel clearance, but i have done a full ea82 motor/trans swap into an ea81 and its not too difficult. not hard to do as long as you know what all you need to use

imagine removing all that plastic. it would probably break off in that cold! go open belts

i also find taking the battery out gives more room to work, when it comes to the ac and clutch fan

start with the exhaust. opening the exhaust will gain the most immediately. keep the y pipe intact and build from the flange back. i suggest the muffler at the flang eand big as you want pipe after it. you will like the sound, too

i remove the ac and alt as a unit all its bracketry, you can even leave the alt wires connected. but you have to take the adj. pulley off to get to one of the bolts. there is the one on the far bottom left, just loosen it, remove the fat hex bolt from behind the pilley, the 12mm under the alt, and the 14mm on the intake

were they THAT afraid of the possibility of catching rust? its not the end of the world

funny how a subaru dealer would tell you your motor was broken over a timing belt, they should know that an 87 has an ea82 and its a non interference engine unlike the newer modelsanyway welcome!

if you have oil on the MAF i would check out all the pcv routing, since some of it goes into the inlet to the turbo, behind the MAF clogged pcv lines can cause oil ingestion through the intake system

you can also use wd-40 to lube the boots, its silicone based. also you cna use wd to make the wires all nice and shiny!!! when it dries it will lose the wet look but the silicone will look rich insteadof powdery

the headlights ground thru the switch so you may want to start troubleshooting at the switch itself

the hazards are on the hazard/horn/clock fuse do the lights come on ut not flash?

if all your hoses are brittle/cracked/clogged you can use regular 5/8" heater hose as a substitute

the xt6 flywheel will bolt up to the crank like stock, no mods. use the pp and disc pertaining to your transmission. if you r car is 5spd 4wd then the xt6, turbos, and 4wd dual range disc/pp are the same

NAPA will have gasket sets but they may be soewhat pricey. i know that you can get a PAIR of head gasets at napa fopr the price of ONE gasket at autozone, but i live in indiana where subaru parts are NEVER in stock, and un available half the time(a-zone, advance) it would be more economical to but the gaskets separately, as if you get an entire "reseal" kit wit will come with gaskets for turbo, spfi, and carb, and you will have extras a head gasket set itself from napa is about 80-90 bones, it will have the head gaskets, valve seals, the o-rings for the cam towers(very important) and i think also intake and exhaust gaskets if you get headgaskets individualy you will have about 50 in for a pair, the o=rings cab be had at a hardware store cam, crank, intake and exhaust seals will averager about 5 bucks apiece, the intake and exhaust will come as a pair depending on your shopping you should score everything within 75 to 100 bucks depending on what set(s) you may get or where you get individial seals

you could stack washers between the trailing arm and the side of the torsion bar, to space it out a little