MilesFox

yake the plugs out and dump it in the cylinders. let sit and occasionally turn the motor over by hand to work it in. pb blaster is a good lube, i have used it to free a seized block due to sittong for a while. it will halp take dawn any rust. as far as sludge or carbon try kerosene or oven cleaner. these things i would use having them laying around, but you may want more opinion on what solvents to use

not to turn this topic into an arguement but a stone is highly unlikely to throw a belt. most likely it will be kicked out. it is even more likely a stone would never make it to the timing belts to begin with. anyway i go off road with open belts thru shrubs and 6ft tall weeds, gravel, mud, never had a problem with reliability anyone here running open belts would swear bt them the only reported belt failure was due to a loose rag under the hood. it took 10 minutes to fix off the side of the road, with 3 tools all i am saying if you like to play with soobs its more convenient. if it breaks so what fix it in 10 minutes, keep a spare in the trunk. it saves you from having to remove ANYTHING to change a timingbelt, other than the alt/ac belts. if you cnange the oil pump or water pump you dont have a bunch of crap top remove opinions will differ, but there are the ones who know and the ones who dont

the xt at its time had the lowest drag coefficient of any production car in the world. and it still does!

the haynes manual subaru 1600 & 1800 has electrical diagrams. take a look at the fuse links under the hood, on the overflow bottle

you could do it yourself if you like, just know the right procedure that makes it easiest. work from the top. if youre doing the water pump remove the radiator but other than that it can be done without opening the cooling system the ac/alt assembly will come off as one piece. remove the long hexd bolt, and the other bolt closest to the crank just loosen it. flip up the alternator and remove the 12mm bolt from the bracket, and the 14 on the intake. you may have to remove the adjustment pulley, if its the left hand type screw be sure to loosenthe nut on the pulley! you can change a belt with all this on but if youre driving seals you will want the room you have to remove the crank pulley and dipstick to remove the plastic. the bolts on the bottom of the plastic there are nuts behind. sometimes the fittings crack, use even torque. if the bolt just spins you can pop the cover off with mild persuasion from a screwdriver since you will take it apart down to the seals you may as well pitch the plastic covers if you figure you will be under the hood often this is convenient. if you changed a timing belt it would take 10 minutes and not 3 hours. i recommend it form my own example, as others will, and to me it seems with the absence of covers any leaking oil will drip away instead of collecting on the timing belts its fun you should give it a try

i had seen a distributor jump a tooth because the last person to work on the car overtorqued and stripped the cam retainer bolts and the cam walked out enough to shear a tooth and set the disty off

the replacement gasket will be cork, use some copper rtv silicone on both sides of the gasket, light film, dont tighten the bolts so much the gasket pinches out the side. do about hand tight and 1/4 turn

if you really want to get going take the tachometer up to 4500 in first and second, wind up third to about 55, take 4th to 65 and when you hit 65 put her in 5th to cruise. if you ever get the rpms up you will notice the power takeoff at 3500 rpm. lot of times people shift before the motor gets going! keep in mind the subaru motor has a short stroke so all its power is in the upper rpm. dont be afraid to wind her up! if you dont have a tach just stay on it till she quits pulling, hit the next gear. 4th should carry tou to the speed you want, then hit 5th take most of your rpm in 3rd gear when merging on the highway

you would want your exhaust to be torquiest around 2500 rom and free flowey to 5500 rpm. the stock y is pretty right on, but i like to use a glasspack at the y pipe rear flange and dump it out to fat pipe. if you put a glasspack that gives you enough backpressure/exhaust pulse to let the y scavenge as it wants to. hiway rpm at 60 mph 100kph iwould be between 3000 and 3500 rpm for that speed range. you would want to hav eplenty of throttle responsea to that rpm so high flow would be the advantage as it takes less gas pedal to get moving from that rpm. 3500 is right smack in the middle of the power curve

i take it your car has the 4spd automatic full time 4wd. are the rear wheels locking up or just not engaging? there is a fuse under the hood that when installed it disengages the 4wd, runs in Fwd. make sure there in no fuse there, and there is no bad wires. the fuse should be by along the firewall the rear wheels are electrically activated by haydraulic fluid against a clutch pack. also there is an ecm that controlls the 4spd auto. just to give you details so you know where to direct your questions. i would assume the car is turbo and also has air suspension, am i correct?

that is part of the pcv, its the crank case vent and oil separator. its on turbo and MPFI engines. i take it you rcar is either a turbo gl-10 or some sort of xt?

well one of these days tim hansen will finish the movie he made about my westerly travels. it should be interesting. i was there but i would have to see the final edit to see what kind of spin there will be on the story. havent heard any updates as of recent though.......

there is a diagram by subaru junkie in te usrm-miscellaneous the #1 is on the passenger side front, and #2 is driver side front #1 on the cap is the farthest back on the dissty, jusr to the right of the screw/clip, rotate counter clockwise, 1-3-2-4

the blowby may very well be from the pcv. before you consider a rebuild you may want to soalk the cylinders in a solvent to see if it will free up any sticky rings somewhere on the board there is a tread about soaking the rings.....

i think of the loyale as a DL with a tachometer. unlike the dl, the loyale willhave the plugs on the harness for features that didnt come standard, such as power windows, rear speakers, and the map lite

hey if you are handy with a schematic get the haynes "subaru 1600 & 1800" manual. you may have to order it but it has a comprehensive schematic and troubleshooting

this is what the part looks like but dont be surprised that it costs 100 dollars. get one from the yard, the purge comntrol solenoid and egr solenoid are the same thing, any parts car should have 2 make sure the little dookers dont break off!

hey man i just posted a bunch of stuff but i got discnnected!!!! :banghead: anyway i said you will have to graft on an ea82 lower control arm mount so you can use ea82 suspension structure, so that you can fit the xt6/impreza stuff on keep in mind you wont have a parking brake with impreza anyway there is more involved in tire rods and strut caps but it will work. hollar back if you need more detail:banana:

sometimes these same clonnectors will be black depending on model and year

as far as turbos go, if you used the existing motor you can swap on an ea82 turbo and up-pipe. i believe the ea82 is an rhb5? i think its a little bigger than the ea81. anyway it bolts up the same, oil and water lines too look on the top of the page and clicj the USRM repair and modification link, and look inthe miscellaneous section for the ecu code reading procedure

hey man dont let anyone give you a hard time. maybe you get it because your car used to be someone elses. but its YOUR car now! dont sweat it we all have our place around here!

dont know the length or dia without looking it up, but i DO know the thread is 1.00 instead of the 1.25 found everywhere else. the stock bolts have a 14mm head but the aftermarket bolts generally have a 17mm head. as far as the length goes they will be the same length as the ea82 flywheel bolt. maybe m8 for diameter but dont quote me on that, but 14mm bolts on ea82 are m10

if your car is turbo with a 5spd or full time 4AT the legacy/impreza/xt6 axles will fit on the tranny. if its a non turbo, or a turbo with a 3spd AT the axles wont fit on the tranny. BUT you can swap the 23 spline doj from a 3at turbo axle onto the leg/imp/xt6 axles to match a non turbo 5spd this part is key but no one ever mentions it

if yopu swap in an ea82(timing belts) from an 85-86 turbo xt, rx, turbo traction wagon ea82 models it is speculated theat the ecu in the brat and the engine controls on the motor is all plug in and play compatible as far as the tranny it will make a dog of the motor, swap in a 5spd from an ea82 4wd and you will have better gearing for the turbo motor. all the MT parts are bolt-in. ther will be some costom work for the driveshaft, and you will have to drill holes for the rear diff mounting. but MT swaps are standard procedure, all of the swapping will use stock parts for the most part. just knowing what combination of stock parts is the key to putting it all together. really, think of the car as a lego set you can put together any way you like

1. yeah make a write up tat wouldbe good. i myself have thought of using an old ford style hi beam switch 2. if you can make it work that would be very useful for automatic full times as it would make the 4wd more versatile to the needs of the driver