MilesFox

in indiana you can drive for 30 days on your old plate, as long as you "got rid" of the old car, and you have a bill of sale or a receipt with a signature, and a date within 30 days

also be careful to not tighten the bolts so much thatit splits the gasket along the oil pan sealing ridge

does the car run ok once it has warmed up? try checking the coolant temp sensor for the ecu, its on the thermostat housing, it has 2 wires and a green plug. sometimes corroded terminals will make it act up, so clean them up good and see if that helps. also try checking the engine codes following the procedure described in USRM http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/article.php?c=1 in the miscellaneous section

try groundint the fuel pump to the body itself, its on a trainagle shape mount in front of the passenger tire, it looks like an aquarium pump

no(3-door) what about sedans?

maybe youre just trippen, that is what LSD will do to ya:grin: anyway if the steering wheel is off center, matbe check to see if a trailing arm is bent

maybe the cam seals? they could be leaking behind the timing belt covers, and drip elsewhere

check the disty to see if the rotor turns when u crank. it may have broken a timing belt if it has sat for a long time. start with that first. if the rotor turns youre good ther. if not you need timing belts the distributor turning sends a signal to the eci to engage the fuel pump(spfi)

there is a lot of guys in the north west. but more and more are apperaing in the NE and midwest, i do know there are some texas people, certainly more than indiana!!! theyll post when they see this

under the hood there are a pair of connectors along the driver side firewall, one green and one white or black. connect the green connectors and turn the key on. this will cycle the fuel pump on and off. you can listen for the pump to come on, and listen for the relay to click. the relay is on the steering column bracket above the ecu. if you are going that far, you may as well pull the ecu codes, the procedure is described in http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/article.php?c=1 in the miscellaneous section

the "complete" 5spd i was talking about, i actually mean a whole car that runs and drives, missing the throttle cable. i plan to keep the motor and part the rest, doors, fenders, its an ea82 body. all the ea82 stuff i have is at the carbola. the carbola is the quanset hut on depot street in BUTLER, maintenance on wheels cleaning company is in the building, its by the recycle dumpsters in butler. as far as the 86 sedan i have for parts, will include the flywheel/clutch assembly, but it will need a newer clutch disc. also you will have to get bolts for the flywheel to fit the ea81 thread, you can find them at a hardware store something like m10x1.00 threads i do believe. the holes on the flywheel will be bigger than the bolts for the ea81 motor, but the flywheel wil still center on the crank snout, and the torque will hold. the timing marks will be of different alignment, so you will want to scribe your own TDC mark. the parts ar has a complete carb ea82 motor as well, and an ea82 will fit under the hood the same. my parts car has indiana title. hell the whole car is good except for the windshield being cracked. i dont have room for the car otherwise i would fix it, maybe make it 4wd 5spd, i have all the parts minus a rear diff. as far as the indy parts car, or if you maybe were interested in mine, i have a TOWBAR that has been modified to fit on the EA82 body tow hooks, if you have a vehicle with a trailer you are welcome to use my subar specific tow bar. i also have 4wd sedan converted from 2wd AT in coldwater michigan. i would offer my parts car for the favor of transporting the sedan from mi! anyway i left my phone number on your private message, please reply to it!

hey give me a call once you get the car if you have any specific questions about it...check your private messages

hey man, that car is rock solid. you are lucky it has NO carb problems, i like a carb with no problems! the exhaust has been welded up that i have seen myself, its solid and wont fall off. although i would suggest upgrading to an ea82 y pipe and some 2 inch after the flange. the gate in back, if you pop the lever it might not open, as if you close the front door the vibration will latch it again. pull the lever, then open the gate before you close the door. also this car has the bigger ea81 motor rather than the ea71. so this one is the GL and not the std hatch. the tranny me and danny put in ourselves, its out of an ea82, came from a gl-10 sedan that jim from ohio had used once in a turbo XT, and its rock solid. we did have to fabricate a rear mount for it, though if for any reason you want to ditch the auto, i have a complete 5spd 2wd jon had offered the car to me one time ago, and if i had the cash it would have been mine. there are a few rust spodt on the body of the car, but its not so bad you wouldnt want to fix it. one project idea i had for the car wa an ej22 motor and 4spd 2wd AT, to use with ea82 front suspension, turbo axles, and my modified crossmember to acommodate the ea82 parts jon had this car before, sold it, then bough it back from whom he sold it to, and now sold it again. jon liked the car for his daily driver, it and the datsun 610 wagon he has there. maybe if you want some better seats we can find some for you, you can modify ea82 seats to fit. i may be parting out my 86 sedan so let me know if you want anything. also leftover in BUTLER at the carbola i have a 4wd rear suspension and a 4wd hatch gas tank(you will have to swap out for the rear diff) i dont have a diff or axles, but you can swap in the 4wd rear uspension and keep running 2wd till you find the rest of the parts we have been hitting up the junkyards in columbus, so maybe you might have us get things for you, or just come with us!!! i used to live in butler but i got out of there and moved to fort wayne good luck with the car, you found a jewel in the rough, especially around these parts. a rough suabru is better than NO subaru:)

you can swap out the trailing arm with that of an ea81 or ea82. of ypour ride is an ea81, you can use ea81 by making the hole bigger on the frame and using the larger bolt. i had a wheel bearing go, and it tore out the center of the bearing hubs. if you want to ditch the drum brakes you can swap on disc brakes, or the whole trailing arm/brake assembly from a turbo ea82

also make sure the steering wheel is straight. an 84 with a 5spd? either a 5spd has been swapped in, or your ride is an 85? does your car have 4 square headlights or 2 rectangular? dumb question, but the 5spd caught my attention

i do know that a hatch windshield is different than that of a wagon, brat and hatch door glass is also different. but i have seen chef tim's hatch, he cut out the roof section between for the fun tops, neato pimpin'

he haynes book has the torque sequence. it is very important you torque the bolts in a specific pattern, using a 3 step torque there are shorter and longer bolts, the shorter bolts will go in the more recessed holes. start with teh bolt in the dead center, then the 2 above, and work in a radial pattern, tracing around the cyls. does anyone have a pic of the sequence? i snug the bolts by hand tight, then 25 lbs first round, 45 snd round, 55 3rd round. reverse order for removing the heads www.warpthree.com/milesfox/87rx/rxbuild here is a photographic sequence of an entire headgasket overhaul for an ea82 turbo, including all engine seals. notice the pictures used copper sislicone on the cam boxes but you will want to use anaerobic gray sealer. orange is best on the exhaust, and i like to use it on the intake as well

no the ea81 baljoint stud is fatter than ea82. what year you lookin for? as far as the parts counter goes, 82-84, 82, 87-89 85-87,89 are your ea81 listings, and your 85-94 listings are ea82. some listings may be 85-89 for ea82 make sure you specify ohc or ohv for ea81 or ea82 respectively. for ea82 i like to use an 87 4x4 wagon as a listing to use

jim (86subaru) lives between anna and sidney oh, exit 94 off 75, about 3 mi north of the exit. i go to jims quite often, and sometimes to columbus too. right now my license is suspendid till april, but jim comes to pick me up from fort wayne, and i stay the weekend there and work on soobs. if ever i am at jims you can meet with us there! hollar at jim, too, or alleyboy. all 3 of us meet quite often and collectively sit on a goldmine of parts ans subaru goodies!

i got a spider intake and i want to explore the possible use on the rx. as we know the rx has a carb motor now, but the turbo harness is still intact. the reason it has a carb is because the MPFI wen out in some way shap eor form on the car itself(the motor works in another car now) i figure if the wiring harness is bad, i can isolate the ecu connectors and connect them directly to the motor. i may try my installation without the turbo at first, using a carb block. i do have an mpfi non turbo long block, but i'll save that for use with the 97 regular intake leftovers what i want to know is do these manifolds work the same with one ecu? i do have the ecu to the spider, i wopuld want to use the one in the car already, or swap the ecu if the plug ins are the same i anticipate using an xt6 throttle body, are the connectors the same or will i have to splice a connector. wat about xt6 MAF? and for use of a turbo, what would you use to plumb the turbo. my setup is from a mpfi non turbo

i had a 2wd adn i lifted it and converted to 4wd at the same time. i bilt my lift, had to fabricate, not too hard to do, simple in principle. so what kind of parts do you have to use? you can fit some later model parts if you need too, such as rear diffs, trailing arms, and brakes. the parts dont have to come from a hatch to fit

yeah you could turn it into 4wd with not a lot of $$$ just have the right parts, you could even put motors from later models in. i think it would be nmore interesting as a project car that can be built up as much or a little more than one that is already 4wd. chances are it may be hard to find a 4wd, so a 2wd subaru is better than no subaru!! my car i have now i got as a body and i put it together with parts i already had. if you need a part get ahold of me, alleyboy, or 86subaru we meet quite often, between sidney oh and columbus. i see you are from hicksville? did you get the HATCH from jons auto and truck? if you did thats the one i fixed with jim's tranny. that car has an EA81 motor, which came with 4wd and 2wd generally got ea71. bonus points there! do you know the guy with the justy?

yeah the 4wd is vacuum operated. you will see a diaphragm on the side of the tranny. there are 2 lines that run to the solenoid switches on the firewall. trace the lines along the firewall and find the vacuum canister. this will connect to a skiinny hose going to the motor, make sure its hooked up does all the heater selections blow out the dash only? this is a tell tale sign of this vacuum hose being loose you can shift the 4wd at any speed in and out, the mechanism will react usually as you are off the gas, so you free load either wayu and it will go. its easiest to go in and out iod 4wd as you are shifting a gear, hit the button as the clutch is in

as far as o.e or napa head gaskets, the turbo and n/a are the same part, design the only difference you will find between ea82 head gaskets is by the different manufacturers' material and quality

yes you can build a carb short block with turbo top end. the rx developed a rod knock, so we swapped the 135,000 mi carb block leftover from robert's wagon. the only modifications were ported heads, but these were heads with cracks between the valves, too anyway we had no problems running 5500 miles west and back, stock timing and 87 gas. anyway here's pictures of ours www.warpthree.com/milesfox/87rx/rxbuild