MilesFox

its gotta be something simple but troubleshooting will find it. try the codes they are in the haynes book and are posted on USRM-repair&mod. the code will telly ou exactyly whats wrong. if you dont get any codes then suspect the timing alignment of the belts and cam vs distributor

maybe it just wasnt full enough with coolant after doing the work. butping the last air out can be tricky, it will take a few, top offs to get it full sometimes, wait for the thermo to open and all that

2 people could walk around with it, you can set it in a 5 gal bucket and push/drag it around. you could chuck a short block across the room

yo the cherry bomb is pimpin'! i had one on my ride, it broadened the midrage and opened the top end. much torquier than no muffler i had mine mounted at the flange before the y pipe, and fat pipe after that. all of the flow and sound was after the muffler, so that didnt effect scavenging, backpressure myoss feece put his after the flange and made 2 1/2" exhaust after it, up and over the axle, out the tailpipe original location, all with auto zone premade lengths and bends(not the flexo-pipe:) ) and this ussed the stock mounting locations. any chance you get have things WELDED, cause it gets old having to find your exhaust(pieces)after some good baja'n

use whatever pump tou want. use the pulley that goes too the shot pump 105mm has the pullet that bolts to the eater pump the long pump 110mm has the pulley that slides to studs. the only difference with xt pulleys is the flat belt grooves, but wii fit the same to a relative water pump

using the turbo cams will work good for low end pulling, but it will lose any scavenging effect, less overlap, because the the turbo motor sdoesnt want boost to get past the valves. this would work for low rpm chuggint like towing, no exhaust... but maybe you would want to use the spfi cam, so the valve and timing profile will be the same for n/a. you will still want valve overlap for higher rpm, for scavenging, and to work well with the y-pipe. your tranny will appreciate the higher rpm power, 35--/5500

the socket has a hex on the top so if a ratchet doesnt work, you can fit either its a 1" oe 13/16" open or box wrench

i myself have pulled with onee other person and 2 other people. what i did was took everything off the motor, intake, ac assy, heavy stuff, leave ps pump on grab the driver side by the back of the disty mount and the timing belt pulley, crank, or ps pulleys. the other guy grabs the oil fill tube and the bottom of the cam box 3 people have him tkake the crank pulley and get the fertical load as the side people lift up and forward jack up the tranny to get the motor out of its mount holes

undo both motor mounts from the crossmember, you can go up a bit without dropping the exhaust there are holes in the skid plate that a screwdriver or socket will fit, put your socket by hand above the holes, and stick the extension thru. you can use a screwdriver to thread in and out the bolts i like to use copper rtv on the cork gasket, nug bolts with screwdriver and 1/4 turn with 1/4" ratchet

yeah an ea82 fits like no problem here are some helpful hints: -remove the distrubutor when installing the engine so it clears the brake MC, then install the disty. -swap out the ea81 pitch bar mount onto the ea82 so you use the ea81 pitch bar setup -the ea82 with its motor mounts fit the same -5spd dual rance fits on the ea81 trans crossmember -use ea82 radiator hoses on the ea81 rad. an ea82 rad will also fit -you can use washers to space out the trans crossmember to help clear the dual range 5spd the engine will clear the framerails just fine. if you lift say 3 inches the timing belt covers will interfere, but open belts will clear. if you lift 6 inches(fab) you will have to make a notch to clear the cam cover on the disty side you can re-locate the battery and the coil to the other side for ea82. use the ea82 battery cable, you will have to cut out the jack mount for the battery. run a lead from the battery to the alt, and run the alt over to the ea81 fuse link block. this will make way for dual battery!

if you use a dual range you can keep the rear diff and tranny mount, and also your axle s will fit. if you use the awd you would have to make a tranny mount, and also either modify the suspension to use ea82 parts and 25spline turbo axles, or have a custom ea81 axle with 25 spline doj

you could use pictures or diagrams of regular ea81 wagons, since the body is the same minus the raised portion of the roof. you could calculate the roof maybe using the ea82 t-wag as a reference. some pics may yeild different grill/headlight assemblies but the overall specs would be the same such as length, width, wheelbase

funny thing, ol jim wood's wagon was doing that today. not too noisy to worry about. i had a dl that got loud after i ran it out of gas, but still worked fine

what it is, yo

it says that because the inhibitor circuit is missing from the at. dont worry, just ignore it. it has nothing to do with the engine functions how is your starter hooked up? i fancy a pushbutton from the starter to switch to fuse panel(horn circuit) if you want to use the key, on the okd at shifter plug-in, the 2 fattest wires on the harness are the neatral circuit. make a jumper and you can use the key, maybe get rid of the code, too

trashwagon 6 has a full rx driveline swap, xt6 5lug, 87gl10 wagon. the dual range shifter is the same as regular dual range, but the single range shifter is different. you can pop the shifter knob off the single range by driving out the 2 pins. on this car the old shifter hangs off the side and that is the diff lock! you can make a switch or put in an rx cover plate and make your own wiring in between. the s/r and diff lock mechanism is the same, but the plugs on the shift knob/diff lock switch are different as far as driveshafts use your current one. same for clutch/flywheel/pp. since its turbo the axles will fit the same, 25 spline. the plugs on the tranny itself may be different though. when you engage the diff lock the 4wd lite comes on. you will have to be inventive to make indicator for lo-range. the switch is on the lever itself

hey copy and paste your post to usrm. maybe add a little:brow: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/article.php?c=1

the ac relays are under the hood, all the heavy ga. wore will run between the relay, the fan(switch), and ground. also the power lead from the battery to the relay. then you would have a wire from the relay to the switch. i used speaker wire and powered the switch from the relay. the parking brake adj cover is the piece between the shift console and the center console, the little wannabe cup holder with the coin tray. i drilled a hole in the forward most tray. the terminals were bent at 45 deg so the cover would snap on. you would want an indicator light, or a lighted toggle. if the switch was lighted then you would ground it nearby on a screw. i mounted my switch so that on was toward the seat. that way if you accidentally bump it, you will bump it iff instead of on.

this setup will work as long as the fan circuit itself is in order. go ahead and hook this up, and if nothing works then look at the whole circuit. i have this setup as well, the relay is by the ac relays, and the switch is in a coil tray on the parking brake adjust cover

a used motor from the junkyard would be a safe bet. look for cars that have broken timing belts, or broken axles and the like, things that would have been easy to fix but would have cost too much have you determined your oil pressure on your current motor? an oil pump re-seal or even a new oil pump could save your motor. if the motor turns out to be bad, well, at least you have a new oil pump. if you wanted to do things one at a time, you could leave the timing belt covers off, all of them except for the one behind the timing belt idler pulley, and therefore you could get into the motor without having to remove the ac and alt assembly, crank pulley, and dipstick. an off the side of the road timing belt change would take 10 minutes with 3 tools some will argue the reliability of open belts and debris issues, but many have adopted this feature with no reliability issues, and its easy to play with the motor often. the only reported failure was due to a loose rag under the hood

yo yo yo subaru land! i made it over here to ol jim wood's this weekend, knowing pat was on his way too, we hung out in the garage till 4:30 am playing with soobs till he got here. pats a nice guy, some interesting conversation. i told him since he stopped to not run off so quick!!!!! yo pat how was the trip from here? there may be some snow behind you, or on the way back, but around these parts the higway dept is up on their road maintenance. pat dumped off some of his extra parts here to pick them up on the way back, dont need it for another 1200 miles anyway french lick is in INDIANA

(assuming you want the dual range hi-lo 5spd) yes you can swap in the 5s[d. the bellhousings will be the same if you have the 1800 cc motor or a later 1600 motor. basically if your starter is on the right, and not on top, you will fit the 5spd trans against the motor. use the clutch and flywheel assembly that goes to the ea82, the one that would be original to the 5spd. . if you dont have a flywheel for your trany any flywhell to ANY 4wd 5spd will work the same, even the xt6. the holes on the flywheel are bigger, but the flywheel will center on the crank snout, and thus the original bolts from your ea81 motor will hold it down. you may have to grind away a little on the bottom corners of the engine bellhousing to clear the starter teeth. there may be some fitment issues in the trans tunnel so you may have to beat it a little. you can also drop the trans crossmember down almost an inch by stacking about $3 worth of washers(miles fox's kit:D ) as long as your tranny is from a non turbo it will fit the 84 car's axles. your rear end is 3.9 and a 5spd will also be 3.9 if its from a non turbo. now you will need the 2 piece driveshaft for the 5spd as the trans is longer. also you will need to make amount for the carrier bearing. or you can have your existing driveshaft lengthened your existing clutch cable should work just fine hell while you are at it you can shove an ea82 down there to go with! straight bolt in and run, just take the disty out when you drop in the motor(usa)

i do believe there is an undersize seal for a worn oil pump shaft. clamp the oil pump rotor in a vise just enough to hold it still, cover the rotor with a rag! so you an loosen the nut on the pulley. anoterh alternative is if the motor were out of the car you could use an impact to loosen the nut if you do it in one quick burst(tighten also) with the timing belts still on

if you can shift gears while the car is running but not moving, and while not pushing in the clutch, you can rule out the cable. even if the cable was broken, the clutch would naturally be engaged. sometimes when a clutch lets go it will just incinerate into fibers all at once while messing with the hill holder, you will want your clutch cable adjusted where you want it before adjusting the hill holder. if the hill holder is too tight the brakes will stick if you try to go forward from a reversing, or from starts on a hill ,

generally when a doj goes bad, you will feel it jerk on the steering wheel,either while accelerating or decelerating. whereas when the outer cv goes, you hear it poppling while turning, smoother on the steering wheel