MilesFox

the fuel pump relay is on the steering column. drop the plastic under the dash, you should see them above the ecu on a clip to the top right. on the dl there will be 2. the one with the brown clip is the ign relay, and the one with the green clip is the fuel pump relay. you can try running a hot wire to the pump to make sure its working all the time, and if you have to as a temprary fix, run your wire from the fuel pump to the pos coil terminal. that way the pump comes on and off with the key, until you solve the relay/circuit problem. if you do decide to run a temporary wire, you can run it from the pump and into the car thru the brake line grommets, so that the wire enters the car under the back seat.

this wouldnt be the infamous engine tick? anyway you would hear that all throughout the rpm range, any load.... the stock timing sould be 20 deg btdc +/-2 deg my experience with a rod knock, the knock would be intermittent upon startups. and also you would hear it as load changes, such as revving in neutral, you would hear it at the moment you let off the gas, and then again when it returned to idle, it would go away at load or negative load. lets evaluate and eliminate anything else before we decide it has a rod knock!

hmmm. how many miles? could the clutch have let go? lock the diff and see if she moves. that will rule out any broken axles in front

yeah i like to use a sanding disc on a drill. if i dont have one i would use sandpaper by hand, just stroke in odd directions so the scratches arent all one direction. really you just need to get the shininess off the surface my recommendations for a daily driver type usage

connect thr green plugs to read the codes. if you locate a hole on the side of the ecu that is the led. plug them in and turn the key on. to clear the codes, plug in the black ones. then turn the key off and disconnect all the connectors once you are finished

you can take the caliper off to move the car if you had to........

i used a wal-mart tow bar. it was collapsable and had 2 pins thru the hitch. we heated up the bars and bent them so they were the same width as the tow hooks. this was on an ea82. the pins and brackets that were supposed to be bolted to the bumber now fit thru the tow hooks. the htch end has been lengthened to replace the length from bending the bars.

there are 2 dipsticks on the auto tranny. the farthest back one is for aTF, the front one is for gear oil. this is where the front diff is located. a lot of times there is atf in the front diff and its not supposed to be there!

ok sorry i misread, yes thes cars are both ea81's. everything physically will fit or change out other than the doors and hatch. the gl-10 has the velvet interior and is somewhat checker pattern. does it have a sunroof? the gl-10 is probably 2wd 5spd, what does the hatch have? the drivelines are interchangeable from 2wd to 4wd.

napa would have the parts. try a different listing other than rx, say 88 4wd wagon for front brakes or something like gl-10 turbo for rear brakes. generally the parts i order from napa are coming from the columbus warehouse. if you replace any exhaust go with 2 inch.

would this 86 be a hatchback or a 3-door? a lot of things will physically interchange like motors and transmissions

the hill holder would generally bind up while reversing. what about the vac solenoids, are they disconnected at the diaphragm, or on backwards?

yeah you can, we drove the RX with the diff locked and no rear axles. as far as the diff lock dont actuate it while the car is moving!!!!! leave it locked and dont touch it as far as the driveshaft just take out the rear half, leave the front half mounted to plug the tranny.

well what you can do is use your own switch to simulate tha fan sensor, and kick on the fan manually using its same circuit on the sensor itself, the sensor is actually a switch, and when it closes it continues the path to ground. you could wire up a switch in between the wires that plug to the sensor, or just splice into the ground wire and run it to your switch(to ground). having it the 2nd way will allow the thermo swithc to work(with a good one) with the option of manual activation

one way to you have this vac leak is that all of the other heater selections still blow out of the dash vents only under the hood on the passenger side firewall there is a white vacuum canister, and there should be a skinny hose going toward the motor. make sure this hose is connected. the 4wd uses vacuum pressure to actuate itself

sounds like the inner end of the axle, the DOJ. generally the noise comes and goes depending on the torque load, (gas vs. coasting) the good thing about this is the inner side is rebuildable, if you had a parts axle around you can change the race or the balls if you had to. if you take it apart and clean it up good, you could put a new boot and grease and get more life out of that axle. a likely candidate for a parts axle would be one that is broken on the cv end, but good on the doj end. do you feel any wobbling or jerking of the steering wheel? as the inner side will do that as it starts to get too bad as far as the cat goes, it generates a lot of heat that wears out the boot. the cat has a metal casing around it. but you can take a piece of sheetmatal, say leftover construction aluminum, and make a shield and atatch it with self tapping scres. this will go a long way for the inner boot on that side.

i would figure there should be some kind of check valve for the vac system jon as the throttle plate opens and air rushes into the cylinders, there is an equalizing of pressure to the outside, so therefore vacuum will decrease. as far as intake gaskets go, if there was a profound vac leak the car would idle fast and run lean. but there is a coolant passage as well as the air passage, it is possible for the coolant side to be bad and ywt the port side to still seal i would consider changing the gaskets if you could eliminate othere sources that may be the problem. gaskets are cheap, and there are only 6 bolts total to the intake, its designed to come off all in one piece, including the hoses. there is a small hose under the intake to the block for coolant, it by the thermostat, check that hose for leakage as well as the ones behind the throttle body. 1/4" hose will fit as replacements make sure if taking the intake bolts out TURN THE BOLT SLOWLY with even pressure, dont jerk on the tool, so the torque wont twist the bolt faster than it will loosen, you dont want to twist them off!

what does the oil pressure look like. there is also an inner o-ring on the inside of the pump. without that the oil pump wont make any pressure

1. use a 3/16"inch punch to knock out the pin on the inner side. disconnect the balljoint either with a separator fork, undoing the pinch bolt, or by dismounting the lower control arm. remove the 36mm axle nut and take off the rotor and caliper, and the caliper bracket. drive the axle out using a 3lb hammer and something to protect the axle threads, i like to but the round end of a ball peene hammer agaist the dimple on the axle shaft. to put it together, put the inner side on first, then slip the axle shaft thru the knuckle. tap around the knuckle with ahammer to get the axle shafty to poke thru. put the nut on a nd turn it so it draws the axle thru enough to put the rotor on, then do the same till you can get the washers on. make sure the round washer faces the concave side inward. 2. read this http://www.warpthree.com/milesfox/subaru/service/timingbelt.htm 3. you can connect a aftermarket tach to the - coil terminal

the haynes manual "subaru 1600 & 1800 has pretty good electrical schematics for all models, and has a chapter for testing sensors and engine components

the disappearing coolant and the vents switching to ac under load i would suspect the intake gaskets i swapped a motro for a dude, he thought his heads were messed up. turned out to be a bad intake gasket, there is a coolant passage thru the intake and intake port

since you got a jdm motor it must have sat for a while without running, the lifters can go dry. now that it all runs it will just have to pump themselves back up. run the engine nice and warm and let the oil pressure do its trck, the noise should go away after you start putting miles on the motor

undo the 2 bolts at the bottom of the struts, and pop it out of the knuckle. after that unbolt it from the top and pull it out. you will have to disconnect the brake line from the caliper to get it off the strut bracket

you will want to advance your timing for power at higher rpms. try 22 deg

try clocking the tps sensor, you can loosen the screws and turn it a degree or 2 either way, makes the car think the throttel is a little more open or close, this may clear it up a little. it helped on our rx when danny had it. before the car was jerky at about 2000 rpm till you mash it