MilesFox

you can cut the bad section of line out and splice in the new section with COMPRESSION FITTINGS. get a new length of line from napa, they will have fittings. cit the one end off and splice that to the old line with the compression fitting, and the other end you can screw into the original brake fitting make sure your cuts are clean, a hacksaw or a dremel will do the job. the fittings and lines will be 3/16"

yep yep yep, that is the piece i leave in, and also cut the hole off in front of the oil pump. this is how i have my cars set up, as well as 3 of alleyboy's cars

try checking for burnt wires that may be shorting out in the ign circuit, around the coil also check the pink clip near the passenger strut tower if there is still volts to the coil it will run with the key off. if you want to fix this problem cheap put a switch between the + coil terminal and its power lead

i like to use a wire wheel on a bench grider, or a wire wheel for a drill or drill press. also if you have any kind of acid cleaning chemical that deals with rust or hard water stains, toilet bowl cleaner, it will help get in all the pits

hook up mthe fuel pump relay to the ej ecu

if you plug the green test connectors in, then turn the key on, the fuel pump should cycle on and off. cneck for voltage in this mode. if you dont have voltage check the relay. the ecu is in the trunk, not sure where the relay is. i believe the fuel pump relay has a green connector

i would go with the broken timing belt idea. i take it the car didnt run when you bought it. take the disty cap off and see if it turns when you crank. if it doesnt then you have a broken belt

the subaru radio has a common ground for the speakers. left and right, 2 grounds, one each for front and rear when you connect an aftermarket unit you will use one ground from either left speaker for both the front and back, and vice versa for the right. the leftover 2 ground wires on the aftermarket unit will not be used

the clutch cable may be too loose causing the clutch to drag with the pedal depressed. also, if its too tight, the pedal will engage at its higher position and grab all at once at the last moment when adjusting the clutch cable, you want it to be pretty much finger tight and a turn or two. you want it to take the slacjk out but not yey pull in the clutch fork. make sure the lock nut is tight or the cable can loosen itself as you drive

the throwout bearing will fit onto the shaft, and the tongs on the side will be horizontal to the fork. there should be a pair of clips that hold it on, they look like paper clips somewhat, and one will point up and the other will point down. the clips fit into a small hole on either side of the fork and go around the tongs on the bearing

if the splines seem sloppy on the new axles, try inspecting the splines on the hub itselfalso you should have the height adjustable struts, if they are maxed out they can wear on the axles. try lowering them to half way if they are cranked up

on a wagon you can mount the amp in the floor box in back. lift up the carpet and there is the smuggler's box! also on a wagon you may be able to fit an amp under the bottom of the back seat on my car i have the amp on the ceiling, mounted with screws to some modifications under the headliner, and with that, i have a pair of 8's under the seat with a foam enclosure that seals up against the carpet if anything you mount will be visible, be sure to have it mounted securely to foil any would be thief's tools or time. if you park in a high risk area you are almost better off with a door unlocked, cause if they were gonna steal it anyway, at least you wont have a broken window if you have a wagon you can mount everything under the rear cargo cover if you have one. i have a 3-door, and i made a cover out of a suzuki tracker piece modified to fit the car in a sedan you can mount the box close to the back seats, way up under

with the timing covers off, where is the dot on the passenger side. it should be in line with the top rib of the flat part below the word subaru. if it is anywhere else the alignment would be off. i have seen one particular spfi chunk a gear on the cam causing the disty yo skip a tooth. what caused this was a loose cam retainer because a previous mechanic stripped the bolt holes, allowing the cam to walk if you are getting spark you may want to consider this. also, take the disty bolts out so you can turn the dist beyond its range, and try different positions to see if it starts. have someone crank while you fanagle the disty. of course finding a used coil bracket for cheap is a good place to start a process of elimination. but generally if the ign amplifier goes bad, the car will start, and then die after it runs a while. try pulling engine codes, see if the crank angle sensor code comes up. if so, replace the disty. also, read this and run through the timing belt procedure and double check your alignments. having changed the cap or rotor, check to make sure the little nugget inside the cap hasnt fallen out

give me a "D" --felony that is, for drawing on the jail walls. i wonder if the search will bring me legal advice yeah jim, i saw the little pins on the ends. but what makes them let go to begin with if thay are still there? and rolling up the spring, how can it let go to begin with if the pins were never removed? anyway i tried the advance search function by post and would you know it the first 5 results are the posts on this very thread. sometimes searching for specific topics will only bring you posts that are asking and telling to search. so if you search for an answer the answer usually is to search jim, you should get a FSM to have ready and waiting at your keyboard:rolleyes:

you will want to check your timing distributor alignment to 0degbtdc. the rotor will point to #1 cyl, its the farthest back terminal on the cap, the rotor will point to the hill holder spring the firing is 1324, #1 is on the passenger side front cyl.

i will bet it pulls a crank angle sensor code, causing the surging idle. this was the problem on the 4x4 conversion sedan we had

yeah if they thread in you are good, just use some lock tire to keep them there. you dont want mad gobs of torque on them cause you dont want to damage the thread in the aluminum, hence the lock-tite

the B will face inside the motor, so it faces the same way as the B on the pump shaft. sometimes the seal likes to fall out of place when you install the 'pump. but if the B faces out that is not right, but i dont see how that would make it leak. what about the pressure relief bolt or any of the plugs on the front/bottom of the pump?

i was reading about ea81 for aircraft use and it stated the ea81 8s 8.7 compression general knowledge around here says 8.5 for carb. maybe 8.5 or 7 for ea81 and 9.0 for ea82 carby

if you decide to opt to remove the spacers you can make up the length by using an ea82 y-pipe yes the studs are 1.25 10mm metric threads, its kinda an odd size to find but napa will have them listed as "import exhaust studs" i have also seen them in the HELP section at advance auto. you can find some if you are lucky at a hardware stoor, preferrably one of theold school ones that have bins and bins of bolts and nuts. if the thread is not cut along the entire length of the studs install the short end, use brass nuts if you can find them also. install the studs using lock tite on the head threads and anti-seize on the nuts thread

hey that is good time! did you have a lift. pulling the tranny would probably be easiest with the car in the air! one clutch i did, i did with teh motor separated from the bellhousing and slung slightly from a crane, just enough to get the PP around the input shaft. i pulled the rad and the heater hoses, but i did not have to disconnect anything else from the motor except for the intake rubber tube from the MAF and the y-pipe. took me about 2 hours, but i was taking my time and going back and forthe between working on 2 cars with jim wood and myoss feece

if there would be any differences id would be by manufacture and construction, but the head gaskets are the same shape and pattern for turbo an non one example if you get the napa ea82 engine gasket set, the kit comes for all gaskets for turbo, spfi, and carb, thus the same head gaskets can be used on either one

correct me if im wrong, but i believe the rx rear springs are that of the WAGON

the one with 2 wires going to a green clip.