MilesFox

yo iluvdirt was over today and he says there are places to go boja'n. looks like Subaru Alliance meet 3 will be this coming this may again.

axle will fit. governor is probably bad. if the car does not go maybe the frobnt diff, as there is a separate fill tube for GEAR OIL, and people mistake this for atf and goodbye front diff. autos for 85 and 86 have the 3.7 final rear diff, as the 5spds have a 3.9. if the 85 is in better shape, all the 5spd stuff will swap in to replace the automatic. if you have to find a new tranny for the auto, just get another 5spd and the parts to it

are you sure the timing is right? the crank rotation is 360 deg. if its backfiring i think a cam bay be off

well if they still have it watch them tell you you have bent valves bacause they dont know how to line up the timing belts to the correct marks if they finish the job and the car dont run right ask for all of your money back. anyway i have seen 2 card bought for CHEAP because they barely ran after having them fixed. both sellers said the mechanics told them they had a bent valve(from broken timing belt replacement). in reality they lined both cams up instead of opposite, and lined them up to 0degbtdc instead of the 3 marks on the flywheel

if anything left it may have settled in the bottom of the cooler? anyway, i wouldnt worry about it the magnetic plug will take care of the rest. i dont think these particles would be in the lines since they are heavier and will settle into the pan, and not circulate thru the lines. your fluids will be fine obviously you know about the 2 fill tubes

one of the plugs is behind the flywheel northwet the chain method is a smart idea

koolies i would like to see it! this is what we all need when someone takes the time to put all the information floating about into one resource for easy reference!

try checking all the o=rings, wiggle the lines and see if you an hear any air. pb blaster will rejuvenate o-rings as it says on the can. if the plastic prongs that hold the lines are too floppy try double stacking the the o-rings with extras. i did this to jim woods car and narrowed down all the leaks in the system, traced it to a hole in the airbag on the front strut. in this case the compressor ran constantly and put undue stress on a few alternators. if the hole was repairable i would have kept the system in place if it were my car.

i use a box end 10 or 12 mm wrench here's how. the wrench has an open and box end. use one of the pressure plate bolts to hold the box end to the flywheel. butt the open end against the bellhousing stud. you can use this method forward or reverse, for unbolting or torquing up! very easy

turbo ports are actually larger, if you get exh gaskets from napa they come with 2 sets, one is smaller than the other

yo what is the part number for the snapon and who carries them? sorry to jack...i was helping my buddy tear down an lsd, but his 3/8 dr socket was to no avail, the bolts were rusty anywat, we got them off by torching them with acetylene! anyway, we torched the bearings so how do you get the bearings off?

yo, running in rwd makes the steering light and easy! no torque steer, drive with your pinky

if the piston is far out enough as if the pads were extremely worn i like to use channel lock pliers and grip the piston on its outer circumfrence to get the first couple turns, generally it will be hardest to turn the first turns and it will free up as you go. aside from the needle nose pliers i like to use regular jaw pliers set on the wide setting, like the pliers that come in the oe subaru tool kit found in the trunk. sometimes depending on room i like to hang the caliper on the slide pin and rest it on the top of the rotor to hold the works still turning with the end of pliers

if you lost poere as you turned the key, check the battery connections to see if they are tight, wiggle them if you have to

here is a picture of how the belt setup would look. this motor is just like how it would go into the car. notice the plastic behind the idler pulley

for those of you who are doing timing belts and dont mind working on your own car DITCH THE COVERS! caleb, i run only but one piece of plastic if i have it, its the part behind the idler pulley on the driver side. i keep it there because its the only part of the belt system that has no motor behind it. the that overlaps the oil pump i cut off so i can remove the pump if i had to. be sure that if you take the idler pulley off(to put the plastic on! ) torque it good or it will walk oout and break to align the dots on the cm pulleys ythe seam for the cam cover is where the dots will line. you can also tell odegbtdc by aligning the passenger side dot to the top rib on the flat part of the cam cover

yes, both tensioners should spin freely like skateboard wheels here is some reading on the timing belt procedure(with pics) http://www.warpthree.com/milesfox/subaru/service/timingbelt.htm

well condidering this guy wnats to get something driveable, if i were him i would go ahead and swap in the ea81, and then as the car is driveable i would tear into the turbo motor and see if i could locate the problem. if it turns out bad the car is driveable and you could always go back to turbo once you found a good part/motor

if your battery is not that new bat had been dependable till now, a strenuous cranking such as trying to start the car in the cold after being stressed with no alternator can do it in. if a lead acid battery is drained often or cranked till dead it will break up the lead plates over time. also a weaker battery will pull more load from the alternator to keep charge, robbing amps or stressing the alternator. now that you have a new alt and coil you will want a new battery as a sure bet. if you persist to have problems with the car after that, keep an eye on the engine codes. a coolant temp sensor(for the ecu, not the gauge) can be the single most problematic component on the turbo engine, as people have posted about such problems often

it probably has seized up. i see it often on cars that sat. one time we had one and were desperate to get the car working so we tossed it up as high in the air as we could and threw it down onto the concrete. hey, it freed up enough to move slightly, but the magnets were probably all broken up by then you can get an aftermarket inline pump from autozone and the like. it can also be listed under FORD

sorry im posting too late but i was going to sat try using a turbo or spfi throttle cable which is longer.... so what did you do about the distributor? if i remember correctly now all that about flipping the firing order had to do with an modded ea82 disty on the ea81

the maf on your car now is different from the one on mpfi wha you will want is to get if not the harness, you will want all the components under the hood, and all the plug in ends to them. you can chop what you need from the donor car harness, grab the ecu and the clips to it. make your own wiring inbetween, tap into powe and agn circuits on the car, and have all the ecu and harness to it be independent from the car's harness. this way you could swap the electronics with the motor if you put the motor in another car thereafter.

you can adjust the valve lash i believe your motor for 82 and a MT it would be a solid lifter motor the old hitachi carbs like to develop dead spots in the power curve, i know things like exhaust leaks and vacuum routing can play tricks with the carb

the doj and inner bearing pieces will swap vice versa, but the ea82 rear axle is longer than the ea81. this is due to the whole suspension on the ea82 being wider i have read that the ea82 doj allows for more travel of the axle, a plus if you are mix and matching

yell i have put heads on for alleyboy with them being reconditioned. but i have used heads in pull-off condition for my own uses. the last head job i did was a porting of turbo heads. there were cracks between the valves of both heads. cracks between the valves are a normal feature on most any ea82 head, even carb and spfi. there is no passages between the valves its all meat. i see your concern with the crack inside the valve chamber, but on the heads that i ported the cracks went all the way down to the valve guide. i used these heads anyway, since there was no problem with them on the motor we took them from(bad rod bearing) since then the heads have seen over 10,000 miles, including a trip cross country, and built up on a carb block for 8.5 compression i would not worry about the cracks, but you mat want to take some preventative measures like peening them shut, drilling some relief holes, or driving in a pin to fill them, stake the valve seats in the only problem the cracks can lead to is if they expand too large it may drop a valve seat. pull off any known good ea82 turbo head that is in perfect working order and i bet you will find these cracks on nearly all of them