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Everything posted by MilesFox
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ej+5mt(AWD) in GL hatch Q's
MilesFox replied to 970subaru's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
all non turbo trannies use 23 spline. the exception is the 3spd turbo AT, 23 splines all turbo 5spds, and all fulltime 5spds and autos have 25 splines -
ej+5mt(AWD) in GL hatch Q's
MilesFox replied to 970subaru's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
i used a drill press and 2 different size bits, stepped recess -
ej+5mt(AWD) in GL hatch Q's
MilesFox replied to 970subaru's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
i think they charge a fee, there is a source online you can see scans of the subaru factory manuals, if youre handy with a schematic you can use the soob originals if you go and try to just bolt on the ea82 lower control arm, you can get the axle on, but it will rub the frame, and you will have to lengthen the radius rod. if you can find an ea82 crossmember, look underneath where the lower control arm bolts thru. this is a stamped piece of metal that can be ground away and separated, and can be welded onto an ea81 crossmember so that the rear half of the mount on the ea82 is now the rear half on the ea81, and the ea81's rear mount is now the front. reason is the ea82 lower control arm curves forward and is longer, wheras ea81's are straight. with this mount relocation the radius rods will now fit as stock. one thing i havent tried was to swap pver the ea82 swaybar, if you could make the mounts or transfer them from an ea82, you can eliminate the ea81's rear facing swaybar and have better clearance for the tranny and a dual exhaust now, if you are going to use ea82 strut/knuckle you will now have the right ball joint hole. for the xt6 stuff you either need an xt6 lower control(same as ea82 but bigger hole) or just drill out the hole you will have to swap in ea82 inner and outer tierods, both ends. on power racks this is possible, but not with power to manual rack. you need the extra length for the width of the track on my example i used the ea81 strut cap on the ea82 strut. i had to make the hole bigger, keep the half moon shape and trim up the bushing. this would fit the same for legacy struts for 5lugs -
Available Motor Swaps for E-82 owners
MilesFox replied to smgjmg's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
ok, you have what is called a 3-door. hatchback referrs to the older models. for 86 the hatchback refers to the STD model. yours must be a gl model not much for swapping motor without swapping in harnesses and ecu's. but your best bet would to find some sort of weber carburetor and do some customs to the exhaust what kind of driving does your car see? -
Runs and dies 93 Loyale
MilesFox replied to subpennyman's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
under the hood on the driver side firewall there are a pair of green connectors and black connecotors. you plug the green connectors in to read the codes, and the black connectors to clear them drop the plastick kickpanel from the dash and you will see the led on the front of the ecu. you only need to drop the panel down a few inches to see in the usmb repair manual there is a writeup for reading codes -
Runs and dies 93 Loyale
MilesFox replied to subpennyman's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
under the hood there are a pair of green connectors and black connecotors. you plug the green connectors in to read the codes, and the black connectors to clear them drop the plastick kickpanel from the dash and you will see the led on the front of the ecu. you only need to drop the panel down a few inches to see in the usmb repair manual there is a writeup for reading codes -
sorry i didnt think of the cracked head, the threads stripping out means the block has probable been overheated as aluminum will turn granular if its heat damaged. i myself have an rx with a carb motor, but its ea82. but still, the ign you can use the same coil, and leave all the mpfi harness alone and hanging. you may one day in the future come across another turbo motor, and you can go back to that with all the wiring still there you will have to mix and match with radiator hoses, you will want the ea81 hose for the top and the ea82 hose for the bottom. you can even use the ea82 water pump so you can keep the upper radiator hose and water pipe, and use the clutch fan. doing this will also allow you to use the ea82 alt and ac bracketry, it will bolt up enough to work, you will need the dual pulley alt(non ac) and use the outer belt, with the crank pulley being offset slightly behind.. you could swap in either radiartor, i believe the ea81's will be 2 row
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Runs and dies 93 Loyale
MilesFox replied to subpennyman's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
on the airbox there is a round piece with a black box on top where the clamp fits to. this is the MAF, it has a black wide connecor to a wire with a funny clip. -
the stock air cleaner assembly is pretty water proof on its own. you would only need a snorkel if you are driving in floods or crossing water as high as the hood. you would have to invent a snorkel, and have to ditch the stock air cleaner for the most part
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Available Motor Swaps for E-82 owners
MilesFox replied to smgjmg's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
the hatchback is an ea81 but you can put an ea82 in just as easily. is you car auto or stick, 2 or 4wd? an ea82 with carb from an 85 or 86 wagon or sedan,3-door will be ideal. go with the ea82 y pipe also -
i have seen them at napa and also at adv. auto or autozone in ghe "help" brand aislt. as long as you know the dimensions 1.25 thread 10mm. may be labelled "import manifold studs"
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ummm worst case senario
MilesFox replied to electryc_monk's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
i think the possibility of a dropped valve seat is most likely. they can wedge a valve open and still manege to seal. open enough the cam does nothing -
really if you took the effort you can throw the whole 4spd in the rx with the ea81, its a little more involved say tou will need a tranny mount and a pedal assembly, but its all bolt on from there. you would be better to find an ea81 flexplate with the right bolts, since ea81 bolts are skinnier and automatic bolts are shorter. aside from the flexplate, you can use the existing one if you find the right bolts(hardware may have them). the holes on the ea82 flex plate are bigger then the bolts for ea81, but the 'plate will center on the crank anyway, and the bolts will torque it still.
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Runs and dies 93 Loyale
MilesFox replied to subpennyman's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
its the mass air flow sensor, its located on the air box where the intake hose clamps to. normally when this is disconnected, or the hose is disconnected, the car will start and run for about 5 seconds then die -
Runs and dies 93 Loyale
MilesFox replied to subpennyman's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
are the clamps to the intake loose, any unplugged hoses. wire to the MAF loose? -
you can use the ea81 flexplate, the ea81 and ea82 auto trannies are the same. i think you r problem with the turbo lies in with the cooling system or something related to keep it blowing hg
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ej+5mt(AWD) in GL hatch Q's
MilesFox replied to 970subaru's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
yeah they will be 23 splines, all 3at turbos are. but i dont know if it has the fat doj on the ea81 axle. ea82 turbo 3spds have the fat doj for the large dia. axle (3 bands) -
your oil may possibly be coming from the oil pump seal. there is no oil passages in the exhaust stud, but, however, oil will have a tendency to soak and draw up into threads. sometimes if you take heads off you will find oil sludge baked into the threads
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if you can find a parts car get the motor, or atleast everything to it and the heads, the ecu. cut off all the clips to the car side, as well as the ecu clips. you can make your own wiring in between. you can use your existing fuel pump and coil assembly, and most likely the same distributor(depends on the shape of the plug) you will have to get a turbo motor or heads because the ports are different for the turbo intake, and the turbo doesnt fit with teh spfi manifold in stock fasion
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yippee! took her for a ride. the throttle is smooth other than where the bulk of the carpet hits the gas pedal. she idles a little fast, enough to diesel when off. i had to wire the coil to a switch as for some reason the +coil terminal is inly showing 13 volts. i think there is an ambient short somewhere behind the dash(hence why this car has a carb motor) i do plan on going back to turbo eventually, have the parts and all..................... anyway, i need to swap back in my carb dist. it has one from an 86 turbo now since i swapped it in thinking it had a bad disty. the car likes to cut out at rpm but seems fine under load. i like high rpms i want them back!
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well i was out in the alley parting off a throttle cable from the 86 sedan. im going to replace the one in the rx, with a carb cable for the carb motor, the turbo cable was too long and began to fray with all the custom mounting i had to do for it.
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welcome! glad you found the information helpful. enjoy your timing belts for the next 60,000 miles. enjoy all the snow coming your way!
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bent trailing arm doesnt help much either
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i have heard of lsd's being swapped into front diffs, but i dont know what's all involved.
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get the whole motor,trans, and driveline from the legacy. pull the motor and have the yard man flip the car over. take the whole underneath! take some bolt cutters for the parking brake cables if you didnt undo them from inside the car. take some help, too. one time we went to a yard and got the whole underside of a legacy and its motor, as well as a motro and trans from an xt, ad the rear end from a wagon, some axles, all in about 3 hours time. we were pressed for time so we took the legacy suspension off as one unit and dragged it with the truck outsude the gates, where we later broke it down and loaded it up