MilesFox

rwd with a broken front axle is a no-go for snow! the rx had a stub axle in front because it broke in fall. the car has been sitting mostly as of recent. it snowed 8 inches overnight. i tried to move the car in the alley and got stuck. after a lot of 3rd gear wheelspin and near-headgasket-blowing flogging. i gave it a rest and decided to put the axle in where it sat. much easier that way, it walked right out. yeah i figured i should have put the axle in before it snowed, but i though i would have fun with RWD. well, not in 8 inches of snow!

as corky says you can also swap to 5 lugs. you would either have to some modification of the ball joint hole and tie rod holes on the 5 lug knuckle and ea81 lower control arm. the axle for a 5 lug you can use an xt6 or legacy axle, but once again these axles are too long. and an ea81 pressthru type outer cv is different than the splined cv of the 5 lug axle. but also, the suspension mod mentioned above for ea82 axles will also accomodate the 5 lug setup as if it were on an ea82 but you will have to modify the strut cap or tower to use an ea82 or xt6/2wd legacy strut. if you go with an ea82 platform for a suspension mod you can swap an ea82 strut cap onto an xt6/2wd legacy strut. or you can adapt on the ea81 strut cap there is a little more involved with tierods too for this, just throwing up possible combinations

i highly recommend skipping the toll road(80-90) thru the indiana stretch, as a lot of it is under construction, the weather, chicago etc. you can take us 30, jump on it from joliet il, you can take it thru to fort wayne. as far as the toll road, there are signs posted from indy north that say "expect long delays) this route will bring you through fort wayne, IN, feel free to stop by! if you want to take the toll road from fort wayne you can jog back nortn, its not so bad from there going east. but its all toll road pretty much between chicago and toledo. i would take another route around that if toll costs are an issue(toll+axle=axle< towing) i once took a van and trailet to chicago, 2 azle trailer i was hitting 4 dollar toll booths for the extra axles

http://www.warpthree.com/milesfox/subaru/service/parkingbrake.htm are all the clips in place, especially the on eon the caliper end of the cable?

i strongly recomment using a 1/4" drive ratchet when turning these 10mm bolts that thread into aluminum. its too easy to over torque them, the smallet tool lets you feel the torque more. you can tighten down a bolt and it feels like its starting to tighten. at that point it is tight, and any more will strip the thread or even snap the bolts. if you do need to get some torque on them turn the bolt SLOWLY, with slight pressure, so that you arent turning the bolt faster than it can torque up one example is people breaking off intake bolts. the bolts will come out, but if you tturn them too fast you can snap them off without warning! now, you have floppy cam retainer because the hle is stripped out. on one car i have seen a distributor skip a gear, i pulled it out and seen the tooth was chunked. after pulling the cam i realizes that the previous mechanic had striipped out the cam retainer bolts, and the cam "walked" along its bore and this is what led to the disty jumping gear you may have to re-tap or helicoil these holes, maybe you can get away with tapping in a standard thread bolt. if you are reluctant to pull the motor, you can remove the anti pitch bar, unbilt the motor mounts from the crossmember, and place a jack on the trans behind the motor, or a block of wood on the oil pan. you will be able to raise the motor several inches that way. you may have to go the rout of pulling the cam boxes themselves to get good access to tap them or to have to replace them. i recommend pulling the motor if you are going to take tese off, and you can get at the rear seal too. but, you can take them off with the moto in the car, but the cam cover bolts will be close to the framerail and it may be difficult to get your tools on them, or to get the bolts out without your socket hitting the frame. its more a pain to try installing the cam box motor-incar because the rockers will fall out or get crooked, hence suggestion of pulling the motor. if you do go as far as pulling the cam boxes, you will want to use grey anaerobic silicone(permatex ultra grey, import grey) to seal it up. also, there is an o-ring on the bottom corner for an oil passage, you will want to check or replace those also it doesnt take much torque on these little bolts, my rule of thumb is use a 1/4 drive tool, turn by hand till snug(hand tight) then torque 1/4 turn. if the bolt feels like it wants to turn more, the bolt is at its stretch threshhold and dont turn it any more if you can get the bolt to somewhat catch a tread, try some lock-tite and be VERY CAREFUL with your torque, as long as it can keep the retainer from moving out you will be ok

did the dealer balance the tires. do you feel the vibration in your seat or just the steering. try moving the front tires to the back and see if that changes anything

the legacy trans will have 25 spline axle stubs on the tranny. the hatch has 23 splines now an ea82 axle from a turbo or full time has a 25 spline axle. the doj is considerably bigger than 2wd and most 4wd, but its the same diameter as the legacy axle ea82 3spd automatic turbos have the fat doj and 23 splines. you could attempt tpo put the 25 spline doj onto an ea81 axle, but diameter might be an issue. maybe check out some ea81T axles, but i dont know if they use the small or large doj. depending on the diameter of the axles themselves you may be able to swap the 25 spline doj and the unternal bearings onto an ea81 axle shaft another option would be to offset the lower control arm mount one witdth behind the original to acommodate an ea82 axle and lower control arm. this will make your front track a hair wider and you will have more wheel travel, and it also increases negative camber you can avoid the suspension mod if you have custom built axles. what i would do if i was you is round up some spare axles and compare them, take them apart if you have to to compare

the aav valve introduces a "false vacuum leak" when the engine is cold, and then closes off as it warms. if it is not functioning properly it may still be introducing a leak. run the motor till its warm and try punching off the hose that leads to the intake manifold, and see if that changes the idle.

you can undo the screws that hold the console in place and let the cosole sit out enough to fill the gap of the radio, if you can figure a way to slot the holes to reinsert the screws.

when putting the whole works back together, thread in the bolts for the cam pulley till snug by hand, install the belts, then torque the 3 bolts, the belt will hold everything still. be careful not to snap them off. if you dont have a torque wrench snug the bolts down bty hand with a 1/4 drive ratchet, then 1/4 turn past snug

how about on memorial day, like the alliance meets in butler. if anyone is bust then smewhere between march and april-may. so far at the junk yards this one place has been letting us haul a truckload out for a bill split between 4 people. i am definately down for a c-bus meet. i ts a pretty good central ground for a lot of us subaru people. i could see another subaru alliance meet in columbus minus the butler PD;)

i like them under the instrument bezel, where the hazard and fan knobs are. the lights tie in with the clip to the ashtray light. lights in the vent too! dont trash your 3-door!

#1 cylinder on the disty cap is the one that faces rearmost to the firewall. its will be closest to the clip or screw for the cap on the back side. the screw will be slightly to the right of the #1 connection the rotor rotates counter clockwise, and #1 cylinder is ont he front passenger side of the motor

sometimes you have to tap the piston with a hammet to get it to catch a thread on the screw mechanism. otherwise its turn turn turn to no avail. try actuatiting the parking brake lever on the caliper for your initial turning

very clean rx, non-rusty is a plus. my rx looks like a trashwagon. what's in mind for a project;)

well, if say your exhaust was missing you can put a 2 inch pipe and a cherry bomb after the flange on the y pipe. have the 'bomb after the flance and then the pipe. depending on wherer you live and exhaust laws you may need to run a whole length of pipe to the tailpipe. an exhaust shop should be able to make you a pipe for around 100 bucks including cost of pipe and muffler. you will be able to do this with off the shelf piece it together piece it together exhausts from auto-zone. no i dont mean the flex-oopipe. i suggest having the seams welded if possible the annoying sound of a rice rocket is from being choked down at the tailpope into a big canister tip. a 'bomb is rather mellow and the sound can be manipulated with how you arrange it in the exhaust and the dimensions of the pipe after the outlet.

tom, try mounting the disty bracket upside down and opposite, and install the disty 180 opposite. just ruin your wires 180 off from the newly oriented cap, so that the rotors and wires are true to their original orientation. are you using ea81 or ea82 ancillaries?

take the 4wd out of the wrecked car and put it in the good car. use the eftover automatic parts to put back into the wrecked car. sell the wrecked one or just have it around as a driveable car for junkyardin or whatever

6. what about xt bumpers?

yeah tom, you have seen the likes of my cargo capacity, but i could say that i was TWICE as loaded down than the xt6 haul. i need the driveshaft for a 5spd, actually i have aq rear half so all i really need is the front half. i have both a dual range tranny and a single range tranny. i guess iwould be more interested in a d/r trans for the immediate, and save the s/r tranny for the IOWA sedan

really the y pipe is all the exhaust needs. immediately after that is the muffler for sound, then the rest is just pipage to the back. the 'bomb has one end opening bigger than the other. the small end is the exit, so if you want rpm or torque, put the bomb on one wat or the other. simple theory for the home brew exhaust system

our 4wd conversion sedan blew out a strut cap baja'n. we replaced it and it happened again. it turned out to be a bad strut which was tearing out the strut cap

hmm, the tach in my rx just quit working, and i think it may be due to a pre-existing wiring problem in the dash. damn them electricals. at least your car still runs. the rx now has a carb motor due to its electricals

it was me, myoss feece, jim wood and alleyboy. we originated from alleyboy's. jim drove his wagon and hauled off the tires and some small stuff. we took the rest, picked up another tranny, the radiator, and stopped by jims on the way home, took on 6 tires, and made our way another 100 miles now i got to figure out where to keep all of this stuff. the sedan and the rx are both loaded down with parts. but now i have everythign to convert the sedan to 4wd minus a shifter and a driveshaft i truly wish we found a scale because we had to be over the GVWR. the tires looked half flat at 36 psi if that tells you anything. but we made almost 200 miles with no problem at all

we went to the junkyard and hauled off with MAJOR components off 3 cars in 3.5 hours with 4 people junkin, and we put everything minus 4 tires from the back of a dodge truck into the lyale wagon ej22 long block, and its intake, and ac/alt and all the small parts to it an ea82 mpfi long block 5spd s/r tranny w/ crossmember 5spd d/r tranny ea82 y pipe ej y pipe 2 ea82 trailing arms with brake drums ea82 rear suspension tube frame ea82 rear axles ENTIRE legacy rear suspension incl struts, axles and 4.111 diff Pair of ea82 lower control arms with radius rods pair of ea82 front knuckle/brake radiator pair ea82 front axles PAIR OF LEGACY FRONT KNUCKLE/AXLE/BRAKE ASSY legacy rear swaybar spfi throttle body fuel pump 2 starters diff hanger bar on top of all that was a tool box, jump pack, 3 tool bags, a duffel bag and a blanket, pair of shoes all of this in the back of the car loded down, about 1.2 inch off the bumpstops, from columbus oh to fort wayne. im sure we were loaded down at least 1000 lbs