MilesFox

ok. thats good. at least that tells me the car wasnt junked over blown up gears due to mixed ratios, my tranny should be good since it was SHINY when it came out, the clutch looks to have been replace. all i needed to know thanx!!!!!!!!

if your pipes are too fat the motor will not have any scavenging effect, and it would only be benificial at way high rpms. too fat of pipes will have no torque. ever drive a car with NO y-pipe at all. slow to move but responsive on the highway. a skinnier pipe will get the exhaust gases moving on thru, the exhaust pulse. if you are making a pipe why not make duals? from the heads to the collector you should use 1.75 inch pipe. same for duals. after the collector you can go 2 inch. after the muffler you can go as fat as you want basically on a stock setup, the y pipe does all the scavengoing effect, put a muffler after the flange for the backpressure, and then the rest is pure flow/sound after the muffler

throttle position sensor

hey, the only thing different between the turbo and tour mpfi long block is the compression. the heads are the same but the turbo heads have an oil passage, if you use a turbo head just plug the oil passage with a fitting. this would be the turbo side head. the other head are the same between mpfi and turbo, dual ports you may not need the head, if you suspect a cracked head, ignore the cracks between the valves, those are normal. what to look out for in a cracked head is a crack in the exhaustt port. a cracked head will leak coolant out the exhaust port, but still have good compression the car would run fine untill enough coolant leaks out to get hot

the little rubber boot on the sheath of the throttle cable came loose and wedged itself into the groove on the throtle bracket itself, keeping it from returning

i parted off this xt at the junkyard in columbus oh, the only thing missing was an axle. anyway, this car is a late 88, non turbo mpfi with the spider intake, and pushbutton 4wd single range tranny. its not full time, it has 23 spline axles, but the rear had a 3.7 i am certain the trans is the one that is supposed to be there, i cant think of any na 3.7 except for 3at in 85-86. so would this tranny be a 3.7 or a 3.9?

all turbo 5spds are 25. all non turbo 5spds are 23 all 3at's are 23 spline. the turbo axle has the fat 23 spline doj that will fit on xt6 axles all full time turbo or not, and 4spd at are 25 spline

i got your email i read that you used the ea82 flywheel and it was all good, after grinding the bellhousing as far as the coil and all the extra wiring, all you had to do was hook up the distributor and leave all the other wiores alone. the ecu will just be hangin out, and the distributor itself will trip the coil to fire, rather than the ecu signal and the amplifier(the little transistor on the bracket) glad to see you got this to work considering it was only an idea when i first read your posts asking of the idea(ea81 motor in an ea82T car)

yeah, the mount is one width back, you can ground off the one from the ea82 crossmember and weld it into place on the ea81, trim the excess. so you will be using ea82 lower control arm, so you WILL have to drill the ball joint hole. the only exception to this is if you have the xt6 lower control, which is the same as an ea82 but has the larger ball joint hole already

for what reason do you need to remove the bellhousing? no it doesnt come off. are you planning a tranny swap because the length of the tranny is not the issue, its the combination of parts you use. trannies come in 3 sizes. 4spd dual range 5spd dual range automatoc 4wd the difference in the fitment of these trannies between different soobs is the driveshaft that goes with them. if you swap the trans and driveshaft it came with, you are good to go. but the 4 spd has a single piece driveshaft, and the 5spd has a 2 piece, so if you want a 4spd in place of the 4spd, you will need the 2 pc driveshaft and make a mount for the carrier, or you will have to modify the length of the single shaft

lne the 3 marks on the flywheel o the motor is centered. . make sure you are on the power stroke by seeing that the cam on the disty side points up. now turn the flywheel till you see the 0 deg marks. drop your disty so that the rotor is pointing to the back terminal, just to the rght of the screw(or clip) that holds the cap on. that is your #1. its the first plug on the passenger front side of the motor, its the termonal on the far back of the disty. here is some more reading that may help http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/article.php?a=24

ported heads with the ol dremel and flex extension, carb block. open the exhaust and chop the air box!

i had an ea81t with 3 in home built lift, 5spd d/r trans, and 185/80 tires on stock rims. i dumped the clutch at an intersection and spun all the ties then i realized it was in 2nd gear 4-hi

we towed a sedan with a wagon, stock hitch and a tow bar, some hour and 60 miles on the interstate, 4th gear 60 mph 4,000 rpm. did fine, temp and oil p'. stayed constant the whole time

we cooked an assortment of campbell's soup under the hood of the rx on out last road trip. one of them caught the alternator and cooked all over the head, lentil soup stain to this day!

if it has cruise you can unbolt the diaphragm and bolt it to the new box, also there is a bracket on the fuse box, unbolt it, too

yeah, you would have to modify the front crossmember for the xt6 parts

you can take away at the middle of the exhaust port, you can blend the webbing in a little at the corners, and on the outer circumfrence you can take away at the curvature from the exhaust valve chamber on the intake side you can round out the bends, and blend in the protrusions from the lifter cavity. http://www.warpthree.com/milesfox/87rx/rxbuild/porthead.jpg a dremel with the smake atatchment works well http://www.warpthree.com/milesfox/87rx/rxbuild/port3.jpg http://www.warpthree.com/milesfox/87rx/rxbuild/port2.jpg webbing. cracks in this area will lose coolant into exhaust port. http://www.warpthree.com/milesfox/87rx/rxbuild/portexhaust.jpg you can grind away around the valve guides. dont worry about the cracks between the valves, on these heads they went to tthe valve guides and the head was good. you can flatten the cracks down with a punch, beware of them letting the valve seats fall out, stake them in. http://www.warpthree.com/milesfox/87rx/rxbuild/porthead.jpg

the 23 spline from 3at, the 25 spline from full time 4at and turbo 5spds are the same, as well as xt6. all you have to do is swap the proper cup end onto the axle you are using, and install a new boot clamp

try checking or replacing the ecu coolant temp sensor, its licated near the turbo and has a clip like the injectors do

the doj from a 3at turbo axle is the same diameter as the 25 spline axle, but it has a 23 spline count. this way you can have a 23 spline axle that has the turbo durability. if you decide to but new axles altogether order for a turbo automatic 3spd, any model, as long as its not for full time autos(4spd)

aside from the excessive play, the clutch cable may need tightened up a slightly to compensate for wear. if the cable is too slack the cl8tch disc will drag enough to spin the synchro and make it hard to get 1st and reverse from a stop

find out where subarus live and wait for them to break axles and timing belts. anything with a ttle for me is worth putting on the road, even if its only just a dashboard with a title and a "junk car" but that's only really practical if you live in indiana, buy an out of state car for 100 bucks and throw it together with spare parts and call it registered.

yake up the "turbo" air plenum, pop off the hose from the bottom, just behind the turbo you will see the clip, its tan color and looks like the clip on each fuel injector. one of the hoses will be near in the way, but you can get it with a 17mm socket and extension

http://www.warpthree.com/milesfox/subaru/service/oilpump.htm