MilesFox

maybe the battery is not dead, but the starter solenoid wont engage like everyones screwy ign switches.l

so what are you doing about the suspensions? also, the models withteh fatter doj can have a 25 spline cup swapped to fit full time and turbo trannies

on my application i used legacy 2wd struts with my xt6 setup in aN 87 TURBO WAGON, USING THE EA82 STRUT CAP. when i had ea82 suspension in my 83 wagon, i used a modified ea81 strut cap, so if it fots on an ea82 strut it will fit on an xt or legacy strut in fact, you can use the legacy hub and knuckle, but you wont have the ea style front parking brake, no parking brake at all

ita only really gonna matter when its in 4wd. and really only when in 4wd on dry pavement, which is a no-no. you will be ok, as long as the tire is the correct sizeit seems that i have been changing tires quite often, using up my spares and getting flats, yet my tranny has been in my last 3 cars!

compile the seRCH RESULTS and post them on the FAQ section

i meant xt6 you relocate the ea81 lower control arm mount back one width, make the mount to the rear of the original. the ea82 lower control arm has a different curve and is longer, so now you will be able to use the xt6 axle which is longer than the ea81. the stock radius rods will fit. if you have the power steering you can swap the inner tie rods to ea82, then use the ea82 or xt6 tie rod ends. actuelly, you can use the xt6 lower control arm for this mod, or you will have o drill out the ea82 ball joint hole use xt6 or legacy struts with the ea81 astrut cap, you will have to make the strut shaft hole larger in the ea81 strut cap. on the rear the xt6 caliper assembly will boly right up, that or you can mount the xt6 whole trailing arm if you make the ea81 mount holes bigger for the ea82's bolt.

you would need the doj from a 3at turbo axle to fit the 23 spline tranny. that or you will need a full time or turbo MT. you would have to relocate the lower control arm mount to use ea82 front suspensions, and xt hubs and knuckles. the ea82 mod will allow use of the stock xt6 or legacy axle you could keep the existing suspension and modify the tierod and ball joint holes, but you will have to get a custom made axle here are some search results pertaining to the ea82 suspension conversion: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=17419&highlight=lower+control http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=17419&highlight=ea82+conversion

i agree dont pull the intake. you will only have the fuel line, throttle cable, and wire harness for the intake. having the motor out will give the opportunity to fix other seals. the engine is designed to be pull ed as a complete unit, leave all the ac ands alternator bracketyt and components there unless you decide to remove the timing belt covers engine removal procedure: http://www.warpthree.com/milesfox/subaru/service/engineremoval.htm engine seals http://www.warpthree.com/milesfox/subaru/service/engineseal.htm more http://www.warpthree.com/milesfox/subaru/service/service.htm

the high ignition coil and wires is stressing the ignitor in the disty. my rx with carb motor left me stranded in ohio one night, ran the battery out trying to start it. got a jump the next morning and she fired. i got as far as pulling out of the gas station when it crapped again. so i swapped back in the original coil and managed to get home. swapped the disty and he was fine

too late now, but the shifter could have come off with the tranny, save yourself a sawzall blade!

turn the timing up a little, put on a 2 inch exhaust, hi flow air filter or holes in airbox. tune up good. jims sedan has a larger screen and filter in the auto tranny, and he swears it will almost spank the 4spd auto turbo wagon. i tell you myself the sedan will get up and go, 2 inch pipe from the y pipe back usually pushing the search issue is preceded by "im new to the board" i made this point here, but after someone else raised the issue: http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=627698

no it wont work, but i have done it the other way around, i put a carb motor in a fi car, the motor would run untill it flooded out because the pump was pushing fuel past the float and needle valve!

as far as the legacies go the parking brake is in the rear, so the front calipers do not have to be turned. as far as the haynes book goes, i remember when i was over to alleyboys peeping the FSM, i realized that a lot of the diagrams in the haynes book are straight off the fsm. my advice for using the haynes book, READ THE TEXT

you can swap in a 4wd automatic the same, it all fits the same. but you will have to change the rear suspension to a 4wd unit, you can swap the entire rear as a complete assembly, and you will have to invent a mount for the driveshaft. its best to score the tranny and suspension and all the related parts from the same donor car, so that you have everything you need.

just pull the hose off. it will spew a little bit of fuel, actually under a it of pressure. put a rag over the fitting so it wont spray everywhere. its not as dramatic as your repair info makes it sound to be. use some pliers to twist the hose so it will crack loose, otherwise it will never budge. loosen the fuel hose clam enough to slide it back an inch, past the fitting inside the hose, otherwise it will still want to hold onto the lip on the fitting. if you mix the hoses up, the line from the filter connects to the bottom fitting on the throttle body

i have seen the noise on 2 occasions. the first when the rear suspension started to fall out of the 88 wagon after a day of baja'n(rusty) and it pitched the diff up so that it made a sharp angle on the u'joint. the other occasion is when we made strut extensions on the back of the RX (myoss feece's anus lift) and it offset the angle again, prblem was cured by making a drop shackle for the diff so it was all nice and straight

if 4wd parts fit on a 2wd body, then why wouldnt a 4wd lift work on a 2wd. my 2wd wagon actually had tapped holes for the mustache bar

unplug the oxygen sensor and see if the problem goes somewhat away. if it changes any, then replace the oxygen sensor the 2 fuel filters are only in the older carbureted models. although the 1.8 ohc (ea82) motor was made til 1994, your 1990 2.2 (ej22) would be considered "new generation of subarus" so you should post there and get all the info you need! dont be disappointed that your car is having a bad day, the 2.2 is regarded as one of the most reliable subaur motors ever, and it will run forever if you keep up on the maintenance like changing the timing belt after 100,000 miles.

1. there are bearing races in the axle shafts, not too different than wheel bearings but theay are not pressed in. remove the locktab bolt on the bottom of the circle part of the axle shafy. unscrew the circle part by catching the ribs with a punch and hammer. the bearing will pretty much fall out, it fits in there witha conical shape. you have to do this to replace the seal anyway. 2. probably a leaky cam cover(valve cover) or the grommets for the cover bolts

one thing about the haynes book for timing belts is that if you look only at the picturs, you will do the job wrong. you have to read the text to catch all the stuff the pics leave out. the pics missed a step about turning the crank before doing the other belt. but i do find the haynes book useful for the electrical information and diagrams. but it lacks in detail about servicing the transmission and wheel bearings. on the rear bearings there is a spindle that goes thru like the front, but the axle is removable from that, i.e. there iare axle pins on both sides of the rear axle. you need a special tool to remove a retainer to get the inner rear wheel bearing out. chiltons book is about useless, its too in general and not specific enough. i like the haynes layout but some of it is lost from the "british translations"

yah i meant more towards the webbing in the port and not so much around the valve guides. the cracks between the valves can be closed up with a punch. the only worry about cracks between the valves is that if the get too big it may drop a valve seat. if you have the heads serviced ask the mechanic to stake them in, or do it yourself with a chisel, just make a notch of aluminum over the seat in about 3 or 4 places

wheel bearings can last the life of the car, but will only last as long as the seals do. the spindle is actually the outer part of the cv axle, which presses through an inner and outer wheel bearing. if the bearings arent making any noise you can let them go for now as far as changing the rotor, you will have to remove the 36 mm nut from the hub. remove the 14mm bolt on the bottom of the caliper, swing it out of the way. you then have to remove the caliper mounting bracket by taking out the 2 17mm bolts in back. you do not have to dis connect the brake line or parking brake cable. with all that out of the way, the hub/rotor will slide off the axle shaft(spindle). if the cone washe does not come off, tap around the hub with a hammer, or tap a screwdriver into the split. there are 4 14mm bolts that hold the hub to the rotor, remove them and tap the hub away with a hammer. put on new rotor in reverse sequence. install the nut to about 145 ft lbs(or snug the nut and 1/4 turn) make sure you install the cone washer and the flat washer. the flat washer will be slightly concave, put the concave side inward now, the piston on the caliper has to be turned clockwise to reess it, you cannot just push it in like conventional calipers, this is die to the fact that the parking brake is on the front brakes. there is a special yool ou can buy for this, but if you cant find one you can use some channel pliers to grip the piston and turn it, and oncce its so far in you can use the jaw end of some pliers against the notches on the oiston to turn it if you go as far as doing the wheel bearings, you have to remove the axle. with all the hub, rotor, and caliper removed. undo the tierod end and the ball joint with a pickle fork. use a long bar between the body and the lower contro arm to get the ball joint shaft out of the hole. use a 3/16" drift punch to drive the axle pin from the inner end. drive it out from the concave hole. now pull the axle away from the tranny. with the strut flopping around and the axle away from the tranny, thread the castle nut on the axle shaft so the flat side is flush with the end. use a 3 lb hammer and tap the axle through the knuckle, once its so far use a pipe or a 1/2" extension to drive it the rest of the way through. be careful not to damage the threads. you can use the round end of a ball peene hammer against the dimple of the axle shaft, hold it there and hit the ball beene with te 3 lb hammer. once tha axle is out, there are your bearings. to remove the bearings use the drift punch from the outside to drive out against the circumfrence of the inner bearing. remove the spacer between. turn the strut aroud 180 deg so you can drive the outer bearing from the inside. to install the bearings, seat them in what you can, and use the 36mm socket and a hammer to drive the bearing in and seat it. same for the other bearing. now instert the axle what you can into the bearing. put the inner end of the axle agianst the tranny. the holes only line up one way, so make sure you are not 180 off. insert the punch to be sure the holes align. drive the pin in from the concave side. now that the axle is on the tranny, you can tap around the knuckle to get the axle shaft through enough to catch a thrad with the castle nut. thread on the axle nut only to draw the axle through, then remove it and install the washers. turn the axle nut till snug, the torque to 145 or 1.4 turn. now use tha bar to install th ball joint, then tie rod, the assemble the calipera nd rotor assembly. it sounds like a lot of work, but its more about technique than it is about fancy tools and equipment. it may sound complicated, but its a repair(such as a broken axle) thet can be done on the side of the road or on the trail with a minimum of tools here is some reading material that will cover the timing belts, engine removal, and general maintenance for your subaru! http://www.warpthree.com/milesfox/subaru/service/service.htm www.warpthree.com/milesfox (main index) if you find the ball joint removal too tricky tou can undo the lower control arm, radius rod, and swaybar, such as edrach describes in his axle procedure. either way, you have to be careful not to damage the axle threads. you can use a block of wood as an alternative to the ballpeen method, but wood has a tendency to split. the idea is to not have to take the kuckle off and find a press and all that. some visual from this message board http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.phpt=19884&highlight=axle+removal try a search for "edrach axle" i tried to find the article but it was probably removed because i posted there too

hey, i am having the sam problem today, i did find however that if you remove the bolt on the back of the y pipe then you can flex it enough to get clearance. the socke i used has a 1" hex on the top so you can turn it with a wrench

the MAF was replaced with one that wasnt obviously broken, whilst wiggling some wires the car maintained idle. it has to be temp related, as the car gets warm it doesnt stall. but it doesnt idle fast when cold either. jim replaced the temp sensor with a new one from the dealer, and it doesnt seem to make a difference even unplugged it runs the same. so i am thinking of a bad spot on the harness last night simply unlugging the ecu and re installing it seemed to fix the problem untill we messed with the coolant sensor. before that we had code 23 and 51, MAF and neutral switch. after r&r the ecu no codes. now we have a code 21 and 23, maf and coolant temp sensor, even though the temp sensor is new. its gonna call for some probing of the harness, i'll check all the grounds on the motor first, then probe to the ecu, and if i find dead spots then off comes the fender. the spfi engine harness did have a corroded terminal, but not the maf wires, and not the temp sensor wire, but the white wire right next to the temp sensor any ideas?

about the heads, i have taken good heads off to see that the cracks between the valves did go all the way to the valve guides. the heads were good to begin with, so we ported them out and used them on a carb block. as far as coolant in the exhaust, look for cracks in the EXHAUST PORT, there is where the water passage is, if you havent found a crack in the exhaust port, clean it up really good and you should find it. it will go from the septum in the exhaust port up into the head. bet you a dollar.