MilesFox

the NA block wont have the 'case breather for the pcv system, but you can bypass that. the na case should have the boss for the crank angle sensor though, but it may not be tapped as far as ea82's go the only difference between a turbo and na case is the one half that has the crank case breather one thing to note as far as compression goes, the idea of a lower compression cylinder will allow for more air/fuel mixture VOLUME to be squeezed in under boost as far as what i can tell you from experience, with the rx carb bottom end, we have had NO problem with 87 gas and stock timing. here in indiana with an average elevation of 900 ft above sea level i recommend porting of the intake and exhaust ports with a dremel and the snake atatchment. use the "roto-ziip" style bit to take the metal away, the cone and drum STONES to even it all up, and finish with a sanding drum. remove thevalves when you do this. one more thin that i would recommed, for the sake that our motor has this, is to take the dremel and blend in the valve reliefs on the N/A pistons to reduce hot spots and slightly lower compression. sane for theheads, we took the sharp edges off the circumfrence of the combustion chamber with the sanding drum

we called the soob dealer and they indeed have one in stock. i had to specify its the ecu sensor, 2 wires witha green clip. they wanted 76.55 for it, but i managed to talk him into a 10% discount. jim went to go get it, i told him to make sure to "swing that deal"!

i would figure it has a dropped valve seat, that may be loose enough to let the valve seal on and off, but if you look at the head with the cam case off, it will appear the valve is stuck open.

there will be a reverse switch on the tranny itself. i believe it has a green with black wire, and a black wire. anyway, look on the tranny

you can remove the whole front suspension, motor, and tranny as a unit. assuming you want to take the motor and tranny with, here goes: you can leave the y-pipe connected to the motor and its tranny mount. unbolt the 4 14mm nuts that hold the engine crossmember. undo the 12mm bolt at the steering linkage on the rack. undo the front rubber brake lines from the body. unbolt the strut cap from the body, 2 12mm nuts. where the radius rods and tranny crossmember meet, remove the 3 17mm bolts that hold the mounting plates. disconnect the parking brake cables from the hand lever end. undo all the wires, hoses, pitchbar, and tranny SHIFTER mount. the whole assembly will drop down if you want to leave the tranny and motor in the car, remove the axles from the tranny end, unbolt the motor mounts from the crossmember, remove the exhaust y-pipe. leave the pitch bar connected. undo the ends of the radius rods as posted renaissance man. leave jack stands on the motor and tranny, one between the motor and tranny under the diff/flywheel, and the other on the tail of the tranny., drop the suspension away the suspension should come out as a unit, crossmember, struts, swaybar/radiousrods(and tranny mount if motor comes with) it is not neessary to remove any axles or brake calipers, and you can leave the tierods and balljounts alone

court blows. i went for my final pre-trial and they tried to offer me some cheap plea agreement, with 30 days in jail and the driving conviction. nope, wont do. so i go before the judge with a substitute public defender and the OTHER prosecutir, the PD couldnt make sense of the multiple files cases in front of him, so they and the judge went in the judges chambers for a few and left me alone in the court room to scratch a fox head onto the defendant's table with a paperclip. so they rescheduled my final pre-trial for oct 15. so far i havent seen my lawyer only once, "what is the relevance of theis rent agreement" he says in contrast, myoss feece has a real lawyer pro-bono, matt barnett lined up say he wrote his statement on his own will, while my case gets kicked around and my lawyer wont know anything about my case till 15 minuted before trial. im gonna have to speak for myself, fire my lawyer, or claim mistrial. they got it all messed up. i bet the trial itself gets pushed up to later. all i got is who i have in mind for witnesses, i have THE RIGHT TO hear and examine all witnesses against me, at least those who have statements such as matt, danny, the license branch lady, tim hansen, and may as well have the butler PD there too.

you can part off a tilt column and use the u-joints from inside it. that is what i used when i lifted my wagon, the splines and pinch bolts will fit the same

if you need a molded hose for the waterpump bypass you can order one for a ford (90 deg hose) if there is no soob parts in stock, and trim the excess length off to fix. 5/8" hose will work for the heater hoses, 1/2 inch hose for the turbo hoses. replace the turbo hoses anyway, i made mention of that after doing a head gasket, and then it blew out on the first run! the oil down hose off the turbo should be silicone

if the car ran when he parked it, the fuel pump may have seized. check to see if you can hear or feel the fuel pum come on. it will come on for 2 seconds when you turn the key ON. you can also pop the panel off from under the steering column and plug in the green connectors, that will cycle the fuel pump on and off. also you can pull a fuel line from the filter and see if fuel comes out, it should spew out at high pressure, out past from under the hood! if you dont hear the fuel pump, plug in the green testers and turn the key on. use a voltmeter or test light and probe the red wire on the fuel pump's clip and ground to the body and see if it lights up. if it does, then you know there is power. then ground the lead to the black wire, + still on the red wire. if you have light or 12v then the ground is good. if not you can splice a wire and cround it to the body. i like to run the wire thru the brake line grommet and ground to the seat belt bolt. if there is no power at all, check the relay, its under the dash and mounted to a clup on the left of the steering column above the ecu. if you want to try a quick fix to get it started run a wire from the battery to the red wire on the fuel pump and see if it comes on. if it comes on that way, you can rig the wire to the + coul terminal so the pump goes off and on with the key, until you can find the real problem

sometimes the ball joint can be 17 or 19mm, i have seen them both. if you want to convert from air struts you will need a whole strut assembly, that is the strut,spring,and cap. everything else will fit the same otherwise. if the front air bags are shot, and the rear are good, the rear will still function properly with conventional struts as long as the bags and lines are good on the rear to remove the strut, undo the 14mm pinch bolt on the bottom of the strut, take it out, pop the strut away from the knuckle. then undo the top of the strut from the tower. to install, bolt up the top first, then do the bottom. you may heve to tap a screwdriver or chisel in the pinch on the knuckle to hold it open to get the strut in/out. you will have to undo the brake line from the caliper and pull it through the tab on the side of the strut to remove it, opposite for installation. each side can be done in 30 min to an hour, depending on your pace and experience. xt struts will be too low and it will want to push in on the axles, so try for a wagon or sedan for parts. even if you buy new struts, you will still need the cap and spring, so your best bet is junkyard strut assembly, and then you can go with new struts if you like

maybe the wire or terminal is corroded? jim i will be there this weekend. tom, would you have a spare alternator? alleyboy, i have the same piece of metal i made jims carrier mount with, i will bring that and the welder. see if you can conjure up some small strip of steel about an inch wide, 1/4 thick, some angle iron or of that sort

the timing belt on the impreza lasts longer, the motor has less stuff hooked up and is less work to pull for whatever reason. i assume it has the 2.2. probably the most dependable subaru motor ever.

dont forget that although that was posted from my website, it was written by TROGDOR!

what is it some kind of justy minivan?

so is something going on next weekend? well if all else fails BURN IT TO THE GROUND

dont forget to figure out how to remove the cross pipe and turbo before you pull the heads. my advice is to pull the motor, if you have a crane.the motor will puill out with everything still on it. you can do the head gaskets with the motor sitting in a 5 gal bucket. the time it takes to pull the motor will save tou time doing it in the car.

4wd? how about the axle nut?(on drum) is the cone washer there?

whoa another meet! i didnt know about this. im in fort wayne with zanny dook. sorry no carbola here, or pigz for that matter, but plenty or rr viaducts and industrial parks for the urban baja'n! hey i got a license now, so what's the plan. got a new job as a "carpet technician" its actually a REAL job. just started have yet to see some money. maybe you can plan a meet around my jury trial on oct 27. the courts dont even know whats going on, court moved up again. not as accessible to the internet, my # is (260) 424-2464

turned out to be a hole in the radiator. motor runs strong to this day some 2 oil changes and a few thousand miles later in the rx. temp gauge still cooked, but works anyway, cold 190, warm 250, pegged youre too hot!

baja'n in weeds taller than the car, mud and grass and sticks and gravel. broke both belts at the same time because of a LOOSE RAG UNDER THE HOOD. fixed it off the side of the road in 20 minutes with used belts, a flashlight, 3/8" ratchet and a 12mm socket. and a 7/8 socket. drove home 40 miles. went baja'n the next day

you could convert to an ea82 lower control arm with a little fabrication. the fabrication involves making the control arm mount behind the original. since the ea82 control arms curve froward versus the straught ea81, the wheels will be in the proper location for the axle and all. but this will set the track a little wider, and thus you will gain a little positive camber and more wheel travel. you can use the ea82 strut and knuckle assembly with a modified ea81 strut cap. power steering inner tie rods can be swapped to the ea82 for the proper width.

the ea82 drum will fit if you swap over the backing plate and all. in fact, you can swap an entire trailing arm/brake assembly from an ea82 with slight trimming. the axle nuts and shaft splines will all be the same between either.

the difference in the xt6 lower control is the size of the ball joint hole, which is the same as legacys and impreza. but other than that they are the same. on my setup i used ea82 control arms drilled out for the xt6 5 lugs, using the xt6 axle. so by that there is no axle/lower control conflicts between ea82 and xt6

john, we stopped by in the RX on our wv trip! remember? the rx now is carb 5spd, but it was bone stock with its turbo and all, except for the bum legged 5 lug in the rear. the motors are exactly the same as any other ea82 turbo snowman, if i were you i would pull the heads from both motors, and pick between the best ones. what you want to look for is cracks in the exhaust port i once used a questionable head with the ecrack in the exh. port, but it turned out a valve seat dropped in the other head. what i would say to do is pick the best heads, have them checked out, and ask the mechanic if he can stake the valve seats to ensure they dont fall out. a dropped valve seat is the most common thing i have seen bad on heads, given that ANY ea82. i wouldnt worry about the short block as long as there is no milkshake in the oil(or for extended duration) and if the timing belt covers are not melted off. if anything make sure it has good oil pressure. synthetic oil will help in the pressure dept.

the dash lights are on the (stop-room) fuse, the taillight circuit