MilesFox

spfi and mpfi, turbo optical disty's(87+) are mechanically the same. but between turbo and non turbo, the rotor will be slightly different, but one rotor will fit on the other(round shaft will fit the d-shaft) but like caleb mentions the wiring may be different, but the wire itself will swap between disty housings

the cracks between the valves are more than normal. its all metal between there and there are NO oil or water passages between th4e valve webbing. if you are indeed losing coolant thru the heads, any cracks in the EXHAUST PORT should be the ones to worry about. if no cracks in the exhaust ports, you will be ok. between the valves you can even take a punch and smash down the cracks and flatten them out. that will keep them under control and keep them from getting wider. cracks wider than a fingernail may one day allow the valve seats to drop, so if you do want to have the heads serviced, mention something to the machanic about if he can stake in the valve seats for good measure

if yours is already pushbutton 4wd then all the mechanism for the diff lock is there, the 4wd button will be your diff lock switch. mind you that you will need a tanny that has a diff lock, find yourself a dual range full time rx tranny. but if you use a full time tranny you will need the appropriate 25 spline axle off a full time or turbo 5spd if not your best bet is the regular dual range, it has lower gearing better for off road and large tires. dual range will bolt in, if yours is already 4wd then all you need is the trans and shifter, the existing flywheel, axles, clutch, driveshaft and diff will fit the same. the clutch cqable should also fit the same, the only differences i have seen are between 2wd and 4wd

i have had the most luck with the THROTTLE POSITION SENSOR, on 3 cars it made a big improvement

all 3spd automatics use the 23 spline axle, so that means the axle will fit ANY 3at turbo or non, and any non turbo 5spds the only tranny that wont fit the 23 spline axle are the 25 spline full-time, full time dual range(rx) and 4spd automatics(full time)

the green clips when plugged in will cycle the fuel pump off an on when the car is on and the motor is not running. start the car, then plug in the green clips to adjust the static time. then un plug them and there you go. timing should be 20 deg btdc. good luck! pitch the chiltons manual its junk!

they still made carbs thru 87 on the ea82. does the car have a vac hos diagram under the hood? is there any odd connectors that used to be mpfi or spfi? does the coil bracket have the ignotor? if there is an absence of those, i bet the car came as a carb for 87, an odd model. if someone swapped in a carb motpr they would have had to swap in the carb fuel pump, and do some modified wirin tho get the pump to work on its own.

the reverse plug should be the same, it should have green and black wiring, i did one on a 5spd 2wd to 5spd 4wd conversion, and the reverse plug fit the same. the trouble was trying to find out which one was the reverse plug. some instances the wires may be the same but the plug itself may be different

http://www.warpthree.com/milesfox/88dl/cwdata/88dl.htmlhere is what the dl looks like, it has the quad headlights like the older models, and the grille is slightly different to fit the headligh scheme here is what the 85-86 grille looks like http://www.warpthree.com/milesfox/wcss5/cwdata/P7050014.html this is what the 3-door grille looks like, this one is white on the RX http://www.warpthree.com/milesfox/wcss5/cwdata/P7050015.html and this is the 87 and up grille for ea82 http://www.warpthree.com/milesfox/wcss5/cwdata/P7050020.html

you dont have the fuel lines backwards do yop? the inlet is before the injector and the return is after the puel pressure regulator

check to see if the axle nut is loose or needs tightened. replace the conical washer if necessary. if this is your problem, the noise usually goes away when the brake is applied

check to see if the carb gasket is bad, as it may draw water into the intake. also check the intake gaskets themselves

get the clutch cable how you like it, however high you like your pedal, and then adjust the hill holder. dont make the hill holder too tight or it will drag the brakes when you try to take off

undr the front diff would be the most ideal spot for the collector. you could even make aheat shield. with all involved making such a pipe, why not try a dual pipe. do one that comes off the heads like this one, but instead of the collector have the pipes converge in an 'X' right under the front diff, then go along the sides just inside of the frame rails, and then have a flange for different muffler or pipe setups after. looks nice like jesse james put it together himself:)

thanx!

if you did mean the down pipe off the back of the turbo, there is a steel line that runs along the turbo head that comes from the bottom of the head, and leads to a rubber hose just below the turbo. be sure to check that one, as well as the hose on top of the turbo

thanx q. we found the article in the usrm, but the computer wont print! anyway we read that you will need to use 3.7 axle shafts to match the ring gear. we have the lsd and the 3.9, both with one torched stub each. but we DO have an open 3.7 that we can use for the axle shafts, a matching pair

who was it that knows what size toll was required to disassemble the rear differentiol, the "inverted torx socket". whats the part number and where do we get it. search was futile, it was posted not too long ago

http://www.warpthree.com/milesfox/87rx/rxbuild/rxbuild001.html#row1[/url] here are some pictures of an engine teardown of an ea82 mpfi tirbo down to the heads. also is the porting work with the dremel

make sure they dont count your clean aluminum as irony, i took 300 pounds of engine blocks and stuff, and what i know was clean they counted as irony, and ripped me off about 50 bucks in weight, i was not happy, didnt know until ifter i had my weigh ticket. in my case, it wast worth my time to clean up my aluminum for some 2 cents a pound. pop cans pay more than that. but thats my location, i wouldnt doubt dude re sorted the metal and paid himself what i should have got.

mind you my lift was home made, but what i did was take the splined part off the ea81 rack and cut it in half, lengthened it as much as needed, and used the ea82 double u-joint to couple that to the steering column. mine was a bit hard to steer, but it was a manual rack with 16 inch chevy wheels drilled to fit, HEFTY!

make the spfi system standalone, so that it will swap with the engine. keep the carter weber and put it on the ea82 out of the donor car for a later project, a backup motor, or put it in the 86 and have the spfi ea81 for another project(like a big set of legos!)

if you can manage to pop out the speaker cover on the driver side, the screws are at the top of the speaker and go up thru, it will be difficult finding a replacement speaker of the same shape, so you may have to invent a way to fit the replacement speaker to the old ones bracket.

the foam padding stuff i mentioned with my speakers i used to line the inner metal of the car when i had the interior panels out. im not sure where to find it, but its the same type pf foam that some swimming toys at walmaty are made of, the "fun noodle" type foam, it comes in big rolls. some of my insulation is regular carpet padding, im sure you could find some readily available, use it where moisture wont be a problem line the inside of the tailgate and anywhere you can all over the car, i can actually hear my stero over my loud exhaust with the windows up!

the high roof model you mention is called the Touring Wagon here in the us. the ones with more velour are the gl-10 models, they have the velour seats and door panels, and also the trip computer and a digital instrument cluster in the us, subarus were called DL, GL, and STD from 80-98. in 1990, subaru came out with the legacy. so since there was a new line with a name, the dl/gl from 90-94 were called the loyale in the us, the gl-loyake models have the composite single piece headlight with the replaceable halogen bulb. the DL models have the standard 4 headlight system using sealed beam headlights mechanicaly the cars are the same, in the us and overseas, from body panels to interior options to the motor and driveline.